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rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 19 05:27PM -0500 A friend has an old Motorolla W376g phone and the charger can't be found. I can get it to charge from a car charger I use as well as from a desktop multi-outlet charger I have. But a couple of different wall wart chargers won't charge it while they will charge any of my devices. I did a search and can't find any details on why this might not work other than that Motorola warns to only use Motorola chargers of course.   I've read that some phones or chargers have a resistor indicating the charging capacity, but I don't recall which end has the resistor. Also, I think this is not done for the lower current devices, rather for the high current devices. I'm wondering if the phone is looking for this resistor. Obviously I'll need to pay for a charger that clearly says it will charge this phone. I just don't get what is happening in this case.   Any ideas?   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

Martin Riddle <martin_ridd@verizon.net>: Nov 19 06:52PM -0500 >Obviously I'll need to pay for a charger that clearly says it will charge >this phone. I just don't get what is happening in this case.   >Any ideas?   I think they put a 1k ressitor from the USB+ to D+ so the phone knows its a wall wart, other wise the usb protocol takes care of requesting power from the hub. My Old Razr is setup this way.   Cheers

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 19 05:02PM -0800 >A friend has an old Motorolla W376g phone and the charger can't be found.   Mini USB connector. You'll need to add a 200k resistor and short pins 2 and 4: <http://pinoutguide.com/ChargersAdapters/razrv3_charger_pinout.shtml>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 20 02:39AM -0500 Jeff Liebermann wrote on 11/19/2017 8:02 PM:   > Mini USB connector. You'll need to add a 200k resistor and short pins > 2 and 4: > <http://pinoutguide.com/ChargersAdapters/razrv3_charger_pinout.shtml>   I just realized this connector resistor issue is not likely to be my problem... I think. I can charge this phone using two generic adapters I have. One is a box with six high current outputs, at least two rated for 2.1 amps and the other four rated for 1 amp or maybe 4 and 2 (other way around). The other unit that will work with the phone is a car charger, but then that one is also a high current charger. They are all connected with the same cable and I'm pretty sure the charger end of the cable only has four pins so there is no place to connect the resistor to the "ID" pin.   This phone won't charge from my laptop, so I don't think the phone is negotiating anything over the USB data pins, or maybe it is? I don't think either of the chargers have a USB host built in and the laptop clearly does.   I'm still stumped.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Nov 20 11:29AM > I'm still stumped.   Because you aren't listening to the other responses, those phones need a modified cable to charge. Many of those type also used that mini (micro?) usb jack to use as headphones, standard cable to export the photos and of course to charge it.   Anyway, I doubt your "I can't find it" claim...   https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-W376g-Phone-Standard-Charger/dp/B00KC6CW2G   seems to be what you need.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 20 09:26AM -0500 Bruce Esquibel wrote on 11/20/2017 6:29 AM: > modified cable to charge. Many of those type also used that mini (micro?) > usb jack to use as headphones, standard cable to export the photos and of > course to charge it.   I have no idea what you read. Of course I have a cable with the mini USB connector. There's no way to plug it in otherwise. I don't know why anyone would bother to tell me that. I said I could charge the phone with two chargers I have using the same cable as used with the two chargers that won't charge the phone. So clearly the cable is not the issue. Further it is clear the chargers don't have the resistor because in the Motorola cable it is on a pin that does not exist in the type A connector on the chargers, so no way to connect it. I said all this in the post you replied to. I think you didn't listen to my post.     > Anyway, I doubt your "I can't find it" claim...   > https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-W376g-Phone-Standard-Charger/dp/B00KC6CW2G   > seems to be what you need.   "can't be found" is referring to the charger that came with the phone. That is why I am looking for another way to charge this phone. The original charger is MIA.   Thanks for your help.   I've measured the voltage on the different chargers, but didn't write down the numbers as they were all pretty close to 5 volts. One web page did mention the phone would not charge if the voltage was too high or too low. I'm wondering how critical the high voltage is. Or possibly the phone is triggering to not charge because the low voltage is too low and I don't see it on the USB meter because it is too quick to see with the slow update rate? The chargers that work are definitely higher current.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 19 02:12PM -0800 > Burglars come in all types. Any attempt to defend against just one type has a habit of defending against just one type.   > NT       Thanks for all the info guys. I'm going to read back through it after Thanksgiving and see what I can try.   FWIW, this is not a security issue. We have a full perimeter security system installed in our home. My wife and I are both licensed carriers and anyone in our home that doesn't follow instructions to stop and drop *will* be dropped anyway.   Motion detectors have always been dodgy at best, and while I would prefer to have the lights come on when anyone approaches them for convenience reasons I'll settle for dusk till dawn lighting.   We live on a dead end in a quiet suburb and there are no street lights. On a moonless or overcast night, it's freaking dark and hard to see whether in the driveway, my front porch, or my back deck.   I was happy with the motion detecting light fixtures we had (although several were bad out of the box as I recall), they don't last long enough to justify their existence. They also are finicky about both LED and CCFL lamps.   I was thinking about just replacing the switches that control these fixtures with something like this:   https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Mytouchsmart-In-Wall-Timer-26893/206787190   With these, I can have the front porch and back deck lights go off after say midnight and leave the driveway lights on till morning. They are also compatible with CFL and LED lights, something most sensing detectors are not. The last step would be to gut the electronics out of the fixtures I have (which are aluminum and otherwise in excellent shape) and hard wire them through.

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 20 12:17AM -0800 > On Sunday, 19 November 2017 12:29:52 UTC, pf...@aol.com wrote:   > > A successful burglar is not stupid.   > then what are they doing burgling?   They're stupid at everything else but burglarizing?

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Nov 20 08:22AM >>> A successful burglar is not stupid.   >> then what are they doing burgling?   > They're stupid at everything else but burglarizing?   I'm waiting for burglarizating to become a thing.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 20 02:33AM -0800 > > > A successful burglar is not stupid.   > > then what are they doing burgling?   > They're stupid at everything else but burglarizing?   then it's a sure bet they're stupid at burgling too     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 20 02:33AM -0800 On Monday, 20 November 2017 08:22:06 UTC, Andy Burns wrote:   > >> then what are they doing burgling?   > > They're stupid at everything else but burglarizing?   > I'm waiting for burglarizating to become a thing.   :)     NT

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 20 05:07AM -0800 Y'all can't be that dense.   They burgle as a business just like any other, with perhaps a bit of extra risk - which they work hard at minimizing. In the United State, the 'solve' rate is 9.3%, In England, about the same, with London being just 6%.   Making them pretty good at their business, and those not so good make up those crimes that are solved. And better than most small businesses, only half of which survive more than five years.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 20 05:40AM -0800 > Making them pretty good at their business, and those not so good make up those crimes that are solved. And better than most small businesses, only half of which survive more than five years.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA       Yeah, but if the burgle success rate is 9% (any given single event), and one must burgle on a regular basis just to equal what any typical schmo makes at Micky D's (although I concede the hours are shorted), then the career burglar is likely to be caught sooner rather than later, no matter how skilled at burgling he is.   Actually, I don't really care about burglars or statistics, I just love any thread that I can use the verb burgle...

w9gb <gregory.beat@gmail.com>: Nov 19 09:30AM -0800 There are several "NE-x" neon bulbs of varying voltage and base (or wire leads). I just changed an NE-2 bulb in a B&K Precision 1601 Regulated DC Supply.   The "operating life" of Neon bulbs is usually ~ 20,000 hours, so after about 10-15 years of continuous operation, the bulb will either flicker or "go dark". Illuminated Rocker switches (Carling Curvette LRA 211 or 911) are used in power strips, Astron DC power supplies, and WTCPN or WTCP series soldering bases.   Mouser stocks popular models, at less than $2.00 https://www.mouser.com/Carling-Technologies/Illuminated-Rocker-Switches/LRA-Series/_/N-1z0zlscZcbt5jZ1ywu5hg   Digi-Key stocks most popular LRA. https://www.digikey.com/products/en?dc=20389   Since this illuminated rocker switch conforms to the standard appliance rectangular cutout, a number of other switch mfg. (Cherry, NKK, C&K, Eaton) offer equivakents.

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 20 12:12AM -0800 On November 10, 2017 9:43AM, John-Del wrote: >> wa6fwi >> http://www.foxsmercantile.com   > Impressive, since you are not all that easy to amaze...   Why would you want to amaze anyone here, of all places?

oldschool@tubes.com: Nov 11 11:40PM -0600 I have an old radio that has a "domino cap" between the plate and cathode of a 50B5 audio output tube. The dots were never colored on it. It appears to be a Micamold brand (hard to read). It has 3 uncolored dots between arrows, and one more dot above them.   Instead of coloring the dots, there is this [ CA-281 ] stamped on it. Does that mean anything? Or is that a manufacturer part #?   The schematic says it's supposed to be a .01uf @ 600v. This is a Abbotwares Z477 radio from 1947.   Normally I dont even bother with those mica caps, since they do not normally go bad. However, this radio had one lead to that cap cut, so there is likely a problem with it. (Maybe)??? (or it was worked on by someone who dont know much)...   After I replace the nasty looking filter cap and a few other caps that look very bad, I will plug it in. Then I will clip this cap back into the circuit and see if it really is bad or not....   Anyhow, if I want to replace it, what is the best replacement. Can I use a ceramic disk, or should I try to locate a mica (probably wont be easy to find), or just use a modern tubular cap rated at 600v?   The old one is reading 9.73 NF with my meter, so that is close to the correct amount. (Of course there is no voltage on it, so it make breakdown when voltage is applied).

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 12 02:26AM -0600 > normally go bad. However, this radio had one lead to that cap cut, so > there is likely a problem with it. (Maybe)??? (or it was worked on by > someone who dont know much)...   And still is.   Replace ALL the damned capacitors and be done with it. And yes, that .01 is important, it's there to limit transient spikes in the output.   A 0.01 1 KV disc ceramic will work.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

Frank <analogdial@mail.com>: Nov 12 08:38AM The short answer is -- the .01 ufd 600V capacitor is not a mica capacitor, it's a paper capacitor in bakelite case. Just replace it with a correct value plastic dielectric capacitor.   The capacitor serves the purpose of reducing voltage spikes across the audio output transformer secondary when short pulses, such as from lightning noise, cut off the audio output tube. The cap also reduces high frequency response, but that's no problem, given the limited audio bandwidth typically used on AM radio.   It's not a super critical application and it's obvious a radio can work just fine for years without the cap. Still, it's part of the radio's original design and I'd replace it.   I've seen line bypass caps clipped out of the circuit and I'm assuming servicemen, back in the day, would clip them out as a cheap and easy way of eliminating a nasty failure point with aging paper capacitors.   Seems likely your capacitor was clipped out by an experienced serviceman a few decades ago.

frank <frank@invalid.net>: Nov 12 11:31AM > they knew it could fail   I'm dubious: they knew it could fail and they made another part fail with it? So two failed parts instead of just one? Does that make sense?   Frank IZ8DWF

John S <Sophi.2@invalid.org>: Nov 12 09:33AM -0600 On 11/12/2017 7:44 AM, John S wrote: >> That's a NEGATIVE 10 ohm resistor, not a standard (positive) 10 ohm >> brown-black-black resistor. (Thats 10 ohms below zero ohms).   > It's the same as a +10 ohm resistor but you turn it around the other way.   Come to think of it, they may put the brown mark on the other end of the resistor.

oldschool@tubes.com: Nov 12 02:47AM -0600 What is the color code for a -10 ohm resistor. That's a NEGATIVE 10 ohm resistor, not a standard (positive) 10 ohm brown-black-black resistor. (Thats 10 ohms below zero ohms).

John S <Sophi.2@invalid.org>: Nov 12 07:44AM -0600 > What is the color code for a -10 ohm resistor. > That's a NEGATIVE 10 ohm resistor, not a standard (positive) 10 ohm > brown-black-black resistor. (Thats 10 ohms below zero ohms).   It's the same as a +10 ohm resistor but you turn it around the other way.

Mike_Duffy <mqduffy001@bell.net>: Nov 12 10:23AM -0500 On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 06:49:37 -0800 (PST), lsmartino wrote: > You can愒 have a negative resistor. It愀 physically impossible.   Like friction? Do you not remember that phone dials actually went *slower* when you tried to speed up their return by pushing the dial anti-clockwise?

harry newton <harry@is.invalid>: Nov 19 06:46PM Am trying to help a neighbor's kids by replacing the rear-deck speaker covers in a Toyota Camry, <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/19/speakera.jpg>   Have you done it? <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/19/speakerb.jpg>   It doesn't come out the top or the bottom. <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/19/speakerc.jpg>   How do you access these clips? <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/19/speakerd.jpg>

Iggy <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_11468@example.com>: Nov 19 08:44PM replying to harry newton, Iggy wrote: "Toyota Camry Rear Speaker and Grill Cover Removal 2002-2006" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ve-kcKxbXx4     -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/helping-neighbor-s-kids-fix-sunburned-speaker-in-toyota-camr-1151335-.htm

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