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bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 26 07:15AM -0800 ser GM truck radio swap Tim R. wrote: >In fact it's probably the other way around.   >My wife put an aftermarket radio in our other car for a trip. It has >this weird slot my daughter calls a USB.   A USB stands for Universal Serial Bus. And even then, the USB port (outlet or socket) could be that or a micro-USB, both of which you use to connect your mobile phone to most computers, wall chargers, audio or video units, etc... via a USB cable. (a USB-USB or USB-micro-USB cable includes power and data hard-wired connections into one cable) This hard-wired concept is being somewhat phased-out by Apple and Samsung in favor of both wireless data communications and wireless charging which presents a solenoid situation that cuts down on the wear-and-tear presented by connectors.

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 26 07:18AM -0800 Tim R. wrote: >In fact it's probably the other way around.   >My wife put an aftermarket radio in our other car for a trip. It has >this weird slot my daughter calls a USB.   USB stands for Universal Serial Bus. And even then, the USB port (outlet or socket) could be that, or a micro-USB, both of which you use to connect your mobile phone to most computers, wall chargers, audio or video units, etc... via a USB cable. (a USB-USB or USB-micro-USB cable includes power and data hard-wired connections into one cable) This hard-wired concept is being somewhat phased-out by Apple and Samsung in favor of both wireless data communications and wireless charging which presents a solenoid situation that cuts down on the wear-and-tear presented by connectors.

"Darkmind" <darkmind64@hotmail.com>: Nov 26 03:06AM -0600 > Mother Ship here:   > http://www.chauvin-arnoux.com/en/produit/oxi6204.html   Thank you for your suggestion but I have already asked them for a diagram and they replied that they no longer have them. I also asked the company Manumesure in France who repairs this type of equipment but they do not have it either. I was hoping someone here would have some. I also did a lot of research on the internet but without result. Even the user manual seems to be missing ...     If anyone here knows a company that repairs these devices, anywhere in the world, I could also try to make a request to them.   Thanks in advance for any response.   -- Posted by Mimo Usenet Browser v0.2.5 http://www.mimousenet.com/mimo/post

jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 26 02:51AM -0800 Where are you geographically ? Maybe you can sens it to me, I am pretty good at working without a print   Or you can post the problem and we can knock heads together here on the forum. And pictures would help.

"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Nov 26 09:32PM +1300 Once upon a time on usenet Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > Or, I could be crude, and just spot weld one end of a nickel strip to > the battery, and zig-zag the strip to simulate the button top. With > luck, it might act as a spring.   I used to do that until one part-unfolded as I put a cell into my favourite flashlight, shorted against part of the top of the flashlight referenced to negative and and cooked the switch into oblivion. :-/   > Sigh... yet another project.   I know the feeling. -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 25 08:40PM -0800 >I've had that with fridges, and solved it by putting copper wire down >the drain tube & leaving it in place. It inhibits mould, and is easily >wiggled to clear any blockage.   You can even take out and put back-in the wire to clean it.

sisko125@gmail.com: Nov 25 08:58AM -0800 Hi all   I have a home theater subwoofer that the volume is stuck on high and I can't adjust with the knob low or high it's just stuck on high. I have checked the solder around the volume control and resoldered them all and cleaned the control with a contact/lube spray and still nothing. What is wrong with it??? What can I do to check for the problem? Any advice will be welcomed!!!   Serge

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 25 04:18PM -0800 > Hi all   > I have a home theater subwoofer that the volume is stuck on high and I can't adjust with the knob low or high it's just stuck on high. I have checked the solder around the volume control and resoldered them all and cleaned the control with a contact/lube spray and still nothing. What is wrong with it??? What can I do to check for the problem? Any advice will be welcomed!!!   > Serge   Sounds like the ground end of the pot has come disconnected. Most likely where it's soldered, or perhaps inside the pot.       NT

Bob Horvath <bhorvath13@comcast.net>: Nov 25 01:54PM -0500 >a friend has a 1947 national shortwave radio. it works, but supposedly not well. >would it have any value?   >thanks     I just searched on Ebay and there are some listed. It might give you an idea of going prices.   https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xnational+shortwave+radio.TRS0&_nkw=national+shortwave+radio&_sacat=0

Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>: Nov 25 02:08PM -0500 On 11/25/2017 1:54 PM, Bob Horvath wrote:   > I just searched on Ebay and there are some listed. It might give you > an idea of going prices.   > https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xnational+shortwave+radio.TRS0&_nkw=national+shortwave+radio&_sacat=0   Just remember, asking isn't getting.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 25 04:17PM -0800 > a friend has a 1947 national shortwave radio. it works, but supposedly not well. > would it have any value?   > thanks   I expect it would yes.     NT

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 25 11:43AM -0800 > > soldering temp requirement fracture the ceramic at laying   > I have read about the need to slowly heat the capacitors to keep > them from fracturing.   I don't mean to go further on a tangent and I have no experience with the A+++ related computer hardware construction and repair, but I know fans keep computer hardware cool. But with cold capacitor heat rising to fast, should something like incandescent light bulb first turn-on before cooling fans kick-in in a CPU tower-area to keep hardware temperature more at an exact setting?

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 25 04:16PM -0800 > > I have read about the need to slowly heat the capacitors to keep > > them from fracturing.   > I don't mean to go further on a tangent and I have no experience with the A+++ related computer hardware construction and repair, but I know fans keep computer hardware cool. But with cold capacitor heat rising to fast, should something like incandescent light bulb first turn-on before cooling fans kick-in in a CPU tower-area to keep hardware temperature more at an exact setting?   can you put that in english?

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 25 04:14PM -0800 On Wednesday, 22 November 2017 20:46:18 UTC, Stu jaxon wrote: > > that it is an isolation transformer.   > > Which begs the question: Why do you need an isolation transformer?   > to protect my equipment, i picked up a new hobby.   Your comments indicate that you most likely have several misunderstandings. It's your choice but would probably help you to say a lot more about what you're doing.     NT

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