| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM > You paid $90 to find that out. Consider it money well spent and move > on with your life. Actually, I paid $100 to watch him and ask questions where I watched EVERYTHING he did, since I want to do the job myself, some day. I'll probably NEVER do it ... but I want to. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM > free every time the car is on the hoist - meaning you virtualkly NEVER > need to replace axle bearings and seals - which will leak quickly if > the vent sticks. The problem I've had with dealers is they lie like a rug. I'm sure Indys lie like a rug too, but dealers don't know *more* because they lie just as much. More than a few times I brought cars to the dealer under warranty where they said there was nothing wrong when, years later, I find out that it's a common problem. It has happened so many times, in fact, that I assume now that the dealer is lying to me every time I go there. If you want examples, I'll tell them to you, but my main point is that it doesn't matter if the dealer knows more because they lie just as much or, what they know doesn't trickle down to the guy who tests the vehicle. This is Toyota and BMW and Infiniti and Nissan mostly though as when I had American cars, they were used and therefore not under factory warranty. I went to the Toyota dealership last week for a part and I was dismayed totally at the lack of knowledge of the guy behind the counter. So I UNDERSTAND you that the dealer *SHOULD* know better. My experience is that they're worse than the Indy in terms of knowledge. > Toyota dealer in Canada - usually well over 100% - which meant we > regularly serviced more cars than we sold - even after they were out > of warranty. I'm not saying the dealer doesn't do a booming business. I'm just saying that their prices are twice those of everyone else. And their work is no better than anyone elses and the parts are the same. > Not always true. I've found many parts are the same price or cheaper > at the dealer than at the local jobber - and cheaper than buying from > Rock Auto and payinf shipping and brokerage. Never gonna happen. Never. I can *always* find parts at Camelback online for example, for my Toyotas that are about half the price of the local dealer every single time. For my bimmers, autohauzax and Max in Texas are always half the dealer's prices for the exact same parts. The dealer is NEVER the place to go for anything, other than something you need out of inventory. Most of the time when I call ahead, they don't stock the part, and then I give them a lecture to the tune of "how you gonna sell anything if your prices are double and you don't even stock the part?". They tell me they sell plenty of parts at their prices (just not to me). :) |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM > They only need to warrant it to the last converter and sensor. That would be just after the cat, right? I wonder why then, they made the last half of the system SS too? |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM > Never seen 30W40 and 0W30 is a synthetic, so MUCH more coke resistant > than any conventional oil. I was just making up numbers to show what I had meant by the spread, but your point is perfectly valid that it can only be applied against the same type of oil. > - in the case of my Fords and my daughter's Hyundai that is a 5w20 or > 0W20 synthetic oil - which I change twice a year, which is less than > 10,000KM per change We've all seen the never-ending "what oil" threads, where, in the end, the oil change interval matters more than what oil. > faster than a narrow spread - it will loose it's ability to maintain > viscosity at temperature due to "shearing" of the long-chain polymers > used in VI improvers. This is logically tenable. > in the vast majority of "coking" problems, the simple expediency of > changing the oil on the "severe service" schedule will totally > eliminate the ptoblem. Also tenable in that changing the oil is more important than what oil. > Also, the use of the much more chemically > stable synthetic oil virtually eliminates the problem. When I have a choice, which is usually at Costco, I take the dino juice with the lowest spread but I agree that synthetic juice would be better (for a couple of things) but in the end, the same cost since basically it lasts twice as long and costs twice as much. So it's a wash on cost, and on slipperiness, the dino juice works fine. > Even the "viscosity shear" is NOT a problem with 3000 mile or 5000km > oil changes. Yup. Oil changes matter more than what oil we use. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM Xeno wrote: > Fractionally more than you. I watch the news on TV. That's it. I get my news off the net. But someone must be watching TV or cable (I don't have cable either). My point is only that people spend time watching TV so they can't say that taking your sweet time doing an oil change is wasted time if they're wasting time watching "As the World Turns" all day. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM Xeno wrote: > Just add gear to your list and delete pushrod. We are talking about > driving the *camshaft*. gear, chain, belt. There are a few varieties of > chain in use; single row, double row, hyvo. Thanks. Had I done the job even once, I'd know more than I do, so I will gladly take your word for it that there are three choices and we must pick one of the three. 1. Gear 2. Belt 3. Chain We have to pick one. Which is the most reliable? |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM > You are not drinking the coolade, but you are certainly falling for > the bullshit. As I said with my lawnmower example, if someone makes a cheaper tool and passes on the savings to me, I'm all for that. I buy Craftsman and not SnapOn. Is SnapOn better? Probably. Almost certainly. Right? But I don't pay SnapOn prices. I pay Craftsman prices. However, if someone sells me a cheaper hammer and then tells me it works better in the snow at breaking ice, I'm gonna call him out on his marketing bullshit. I get it that a hammer can be made cheaper. I do. I get it that a hammer's main job has nothing to do with breaking ice in the snow, but that 10 days out of the year, the snow is deep enough when I need to get to work that I have to break the ice with that hammer. But for 355 days of the 365 day year, I'm stuck with that crappy handling hammer. That's OK if the REASON I bought that crappy handling hammer was because it was cheap. It's not ok if I say that the crappy handling hammer handles better than my hammer in the snow because losing handling 355 days of the year to gain a smidge of handling in *deep* snow on the 10 days of the year that you have to drive in it - is just not logical thought processes. It's OK to admit FWD is cheaper. It's not OK to lie about what it can do. That's marketing's job. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM Xeno wrote: >> I remember $1000 but they didn't pass that on to the consumer in toto. > Cars are cheaper now than they were when I was a boy. It would be interesting to look at the normalized price. A car then, was $5K, and now is $50K so 10x doesn't seem too much off from even given inflation. >> I posit they lose handling. > They gain handling as long as they understand it's *different handling*. Spoken like a true Marketing person! :) My RWD car has never seen snow in 20 years except a few runs to Tahoe where they legally required chains to get there. Even when I lived in the snow belt ... deep snow was only on the road when I needed the road for 1 or 2 days of the year, and at max, 10 days out of 365. Think of that. Lousy handling for 355 days and just barely ok handling in deep snow for the other 10 days. The real FWD tradeoff was *never* handling. It was profits. >> before owning a FWD car... simply because I don't want to fall for the >> marketing trap that everyone else easily falls into. > FWD works for me. I have nothing against a cheaper tool. Nothing. A car is a tool. A FWD is a cheaper tool. I just have something against someone seriously trying to tell me that his cheaper lawnmower works better in the snow than does my more expensive lawnmower. I work off of logic. Not marketing bullshit. I never said I was always right though ... so if someone can show me fwd in the best handling cars on the planet and at a cheap price ... count me in. |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 06 10:20AM -0500 On Tue, 7 Nov 2017 00:46:35 +1100, Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au> wrote: >> I never replace brake fluid unless I've got the system open. >Every two years at a minimum was what it used to be. The fluid is >hygroscopic and will absorb moisture out of the air or anywhere it can. The new master cyls have a better atmospheric seal, so if you never open the top to check or change fluid it's a bit better than it used to be, but 2 years is still the recomendation. |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 06 10:23AM -0500 >lacks logic too, if you think a 1955 Chevy rings is the same as used >today. >https://upcommons.upc.edu/bitstream/handle/2099.1/22095/Designing%20and%20modeling%20of%20piston%20in%20combustion%20engines.pdf?sequence=1 Not to denigrate the GOOD engineers out there - but he sure thinks like a typical engineer - - - One with no practical experience and a "god complex" only exceded by orthopedic surgeons. |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 06 10:25AM -0500 >since once the phenolic material reaches the critical temperature it >jumps from its original solid state and changes instantaneously to a >gas, with no detectable liquid phase). Basically almost smoke!!! >the opposing force as a result of the outgassing can become large enough >to prize the pads away from the rotor, reducing the area of pad in >contact with the rotor and thus reducing braking power (i.e. brake fade). And also making the pedal a bit "spongy" from trying to squeeze the gas. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM > No reputable shop will do it because comebacks are expensive - and > real mechanics KNOW the comebacks will happen if they do something > stupid like installing new pads on badly worn rotors. Rotors are cheap. $50 for Brembo or Myle. I measure runout. I measure thickness. I measure thickness variation. I look at scoring. I look up the specs when I need them. In practice, it's pretty simple: 1. Replace the OEM Jurid/Textar pads with $35 Axxis/PBR FF equivalents. 2. Measure the thickness of the existing rotor 3. If it's too thin, replace with Meyle/Brembo for $50/wheel I don't blame any shop for replacing *everything* they can. The more they replace, the more they make and the less people come back. That's just logic. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM > Not hard to understand at all. Uneven friction causes uneven heating, > and localized overheating causes enhanced friction material transfer - > which just cascades. That must be it because you don't feel the effect of the primary pad imprint. You only feel the effect over time when it builds up to enough of the teeniest tinyiest amount to make the shuddering occur at speed. My main point is that if people think their brakes actually 'warped' (ad in a potato chip), the short term solution always works but their long term solution can't possibly work. The long term solution is, most of the time, to change their braking habits. Until they realize that their brake rotors didn't warp, they won't realize that the long term solution is what it is. To me, that's the crime of people thinking their brakes actually warped. > Short term? Gently re-bed the pads. Works high percentage of the > time if you don't allow it to get progressively worse to the point you > get cabide inclusions in the rotors. I know. I know. But I was summarizing. You can scrape the deposit off a bunch of free and easy ways. 1. Easiest is to run the re-bedding procedure 2. Easy but harder than that is to put some scratchy pads on 3. Harder than those two by far is to have them machined or replaced I do what you do, which is I rebed them which is easily enough done if you have a long downhill straightaway with no traffic or a highway straightaway with no traffic. In summary, the *crime* of people believing that the rotors actually warped is that they never implement the correct long term solution. So they're constantly complaining that their rotors warped. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM Xeno wrote: > have no idea how many different spanners those three adjustables > replaced. In field work you need to cart *all your tools* with you. You > always look to minimise that load. I should have made it clear that I was just kidding about making them illegal. I fully understand the *need* for the adustable wrenches, and I have a Craftsman 3-piece set myself, which I almost never use. I've probably used one about twenty times in forty years. My beef is when people use them on "my stuff" when they have a perfectly good socket wrench in the truck just 100 feet away. |
| Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Nov 06 10:26AM -0500 On 11/6/2017 12:28 AM, Xeno wrote: >> For me, I get a new car when the old car has a repair that isn't worth >> paying. That's less likely nowadays as I'm retired on a low budget. > I've been buying new cars since retirement - two last year. Never bought two in one yer even when my wife was still driving. She usually got my hand me down. I just bought a new car two weeks ago. I honestly can't give you a valid reason for doing so other than I like the color better. The guy that gets my old one with 38k miles is getting a real cream puff. |
| RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>: Nov 06 03:20PM Xeno wrote: > The pads on my car(s) have both long life and good braking ability. Did > I mention they don't squeal too. They are the OEM Toyota pads that came > with the car and that's what they will be replaced with. The only time you don't have to mention the friction rating is when you purchase OEM pads. Otherwise, the friction rating is critical to mention. I have nothing against OEM anything, but in the case of the bimmer, the FF Jurid pads in the front make a black dust that is objectionable. For some reason, which I don't believe the marketing of, the PBR/Axxis FF pads don't have that objectionable dust. Nobody has ever given a good answer since "dustless" doesn't cut it. All pads and rotors must dust. So we just assume that the dust from Axxis/PBR pads is not as objectionable as the dust from the OEM Jurid pads. Both stop as well as indicated by the FF rating for both. |
| Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Nov 06 10:42AM -0500 On 11/5/2017 11:48 PM, RS Wood wrote: > those parts than anywhere else. > I go to an indy for alignment and clutch and tires, etc., where I couldn't > imagine payking the price for the same job at the dealer. Any shop can do a starter, water pump, but most don't have the expertise for some of the electronics. Dealer may be 1 hour at $75 versus the indy at $50 but takes three hours to figure out the problem. If my adaptive cruise control stopped working I'm not trusting the corner gas station. |
| Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Nov 06 10:47AM -0500 > brother operated an independent shop for several decades (after > working for several dealers and independents) while I worked for both > dealers and insdependents If your brother worked for a particular brand dealer for a long time I'd not hesitate to take that brand of car to him as he knows it well. Of course dealers do work on all brands but they have lots of expertise on the core brand. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 06 07:47AM On 06/11/2017 06:00, David Farber wrote: > http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Flakey-terminals.jpg > http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Filter-caps.jpg > Thanks for your reply. What date? Assuming >2006 then first diagnostic procedure is to waft a bird feather around the components while powered up, if you've not been manually touching things inside. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 06 04:48AM -0800 I would suggest you re-solder those two resistors - making sure that the leads have not corroded to any degree. Ideally, replace them and clean the solder traces. I use an electric eraser for this purpose. https://www.artsuppliesonline.com/prodimg/6150.jpg With a very soft insert. Wonderful devices that do not 'pull' traces or leave conductive scarf. I expect your problem is thermal - and due to vibrations when hot. So, get the thing going, and using a wooden stick - something like a drumstick, tap the various components and see where you get a reaction. Clean that up, and you will be fine. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 06 06:05AM -0800 On Monday, 6 November 2017 06:02:48 UTC, David Farber wrote: > http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Flakey-terminals.jpg > http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Electronics/Rickenbacker/Filter-caps.jpg > Thanks for your reply. Poor connection. Tap around gently with an insulating stick to locate it. NT |
| "David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Nov 05 10:36PM -0800 I have one of those polarity/line/ground checker plugs. It has three lamps that illuminate according to the condition of the 120VAC outlet. The neon light that illuminates indicating a good ground is not lighting up anymore. Will this replacement neon light work properly for this application? https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/visual-communications-company-vcc/C2A/C2A-ND/3150384 There is a 68k resistor in series with the lamp. What does the breakdown voltage indicate? http://www.vcclite.com/_pdf/Neon%20Indicator%20Lamps_7_&_8.pdf A picture of a similar tester is here. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3099752 Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 06 04:40AM -0800 On Monday, November 6, 2017 at 1:36:54 AM UTC-5, David Farber wrote: > A picture of a similar tester is here. > http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3099752 99-44/100ths of neon applications of this nature use the NE-2 or NE-2E lamp. Both will need a 'ballast resistor' of about 100K ohms. Which is also the part that may have failed in your tester. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| tschw10117@gmail.com: Nov 06 05:07AM -0800 Before I cracked the case on a "safety" tool, I'd probably decide to just buy another.... I've seen these for about $5 at Harbor Freight and similar stores. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 06 06:03AM -0800 On Monday, 6 November 2017 06:36:54 UTC, David Farber wrote: > A picture of a similar tester is here. > http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3099752 > Thanks for your reply. Yes, as long as there is a suitable resistor in series with it. NT |
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