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oldschool@tubes.com: Dec 25 02:34PM -0600 I have one of those costly animated outdoor Christmas displays with white LED lights on it. A few of the LEDs are dead. There is no manufacturer info available.   I know LEDs all have a different current draw. I am not sure how critical it is, to choose a replacement bulb. Does it matter, or will any white LED work, as long as it fits the socket?   These are sort of the domed type, but have flat tops. Nothing fancy, and they dont have to look identical since they are inside of a coating.   My thought is to just buy a string of white xmas lights after the holiday (on sale) and use them for replacement bulbs. But maybe I need to know more about the current draw or something. I ve never had to replace LED bulbs before. I replaced amny of the old xmas light strings that has incandescent bulbs, and with them, you had to match the number of bulbs to get the correct voltage.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 25 02:18PM -0800 >ve never had to replace LED bulbs before. I replaced amny of the old >xmas light strings that has incandescent bulbs, and with them, you had >to match the number of bulbs to get the correct voltage.   Two days after I hung my string of Hanukah lights, the local squirrels gave it a taste test resulting in about half the string going dark. You might inspect your lights for similar damage. If so, splice or solder the wires back together and it should work. Be sure to use shrink tube or liquid electrical tape for insulation. My 25ft string has about 6 breaks from similar squirrel damage from previous years.   If you plan to fix it, take the time to determine how it's wired. Some possible schematics and wiring diagrams: <https://www.google.com/search?q=led+christmas+light+wiring&tbm=isch> Trace out your wiring and see what matches.   Try to fix just one section that's currently not lit. If you find it, don't fix it immediately. Use a VOM or DVM to measure the current and you have your answer. Some LED's have built in resistors or current regulators like this: <https://www.google.com/patents/US8007129>   You can determine which LED is blown in one segment, attach needles to the VOM or DVM leads and probe across each LED by puncturing its wires. If you see an unusually large voltage, the LED that you're straddling is the culprit. Be careful as most light strings do not have any isolation from the AC power line. Use a 117-117VAC isolation transformer or be VERY careful when probing live power.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Dec 25 05:42PM -0800 > I know LEDs all have a different current draw. I am not sure how > critical it is, to choose a replacement bulb. Does it matter, or will > any white LED work, as long as it fits the socket?   There's multiple shades of 'white' available; if you can't see the replacements side-by-side, they won't be exact.   Generally available (new stock) LEDs in the same package are likely (for heatsinking reasons) to be electrically compatible. And, cheaper than a set, you can get bags of LEDs from a variety of suppliers, like this: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-white-LED-light-100pcs-Light-Emitting-Diode/182490012569?epid=571206918>   but polarity, case size, color, are just as mysterious as the 'no manufacturer info available' item you are thinking to rebuild.

oldschool@tubes.com: Dec 26 05:08AM -0600 On Mon, 25 Dec 2017 14:18:44 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >straddling is the culprit. Be careful as most light strings do not >have any isolation from the AC power line. Use a 117-117VAC isolation >transformer or be VERY careful when probing live power.   Thanks for the help. This is an outdoor display, but I use it indoors. So no animals have chewed on the wires. I dont hasve whole sections out, just two or three bulbs that dont light. I could just leave it alone, but if it's series wired, I know it will eventually overload other bulbs. (Yea, I need to get a better look at the way it's wired). Plus this was a very costly and very pretty display, so I want to keep it in tip-top shape. (Which is why I only use it indoors).   The reason I got this, was because it was a store display, and I got it at a much reduced price. So, running it in the store for weeks probably killed the weak LEDs. However there was no box or instructions. I'm sure it was NOT made in the US, so finding the manufacturer is not gonna help determine the proper bulbs.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 26 07:16AM -0600 > I'm sure it was NOT made in the US, so finding the manufacturer > is not gonna help determine the proper bulbs.   Ya know, for someone who is constantly pissing and moaning about "Unreliable Chinese shit" you sure seem to buy a lot of it.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 26 06:12AM -0800 > killed the weak LEDs. However there was no box or instructions. I'm sure > it was NOT made in the US, so finding the manufacturer is not gonna help > determine the proper bulbs.   If they're 5mm LEDs, a bag of mixed random 5mm chinese LEDs would work. Who knows if they'll match on brightness & colour though.     NT

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Dec 26 05:52AM -0800 I've had that happen on a CRT not quite that old.   It's really annoying. There was always some combination of inputs from the remote that fixed it, but sometimes it took us a couple weeks to hit on it again.

"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Dec 26 02:09PM +1300 > and some pots, switches, jacks and you have a complete device. They > are made for amps, pre-amps, test equipment and lots of other stuff. > So I wonder if they are made for pass filters????   https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Low-Pass-Filter-Plate-Subwoofer-Preamp-Board-2-1-3-Channel-DC-10-24V-22Hz-300Hz/32590327578.html   I've used one of these and it seems to work fine. For $5 delivered it's hard to not try it. -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 25 07:14PM -0800 On Tuesday, 26 December 2017 01:09:43 UTC, ~misfit~ wrote: > > On Fri, 8 Dec 2017 07:52:47 -0000 (UTC), gregz <zekor@comcast.net> > > wrote: > >> <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote: 8<     > https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Low-Pass-Filter-Plate-Subwoofer-Preamp-Board-2-1-3-Channel-DC-10-24V-22Hz-300Hz/32590327578.html   > I've used one of these and it seems to work fine. For $5 delivered it's hard > to not try it.   What's the point of it? A couple of RCs does the job without waiting for delivery or paying a thing. Or using a psu, or adding noise to your signal.     NT

"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Dec 26 12:43PM +1300 > increasing failure rate starting at around age 10.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Thanks Peter, that's what I though made the most sense (though there was a full stop between 'caps' and 'Frakus' which made me wonder) but even googling 'Frakus capacitor' didn't confirm my suspicions.   Cheers, -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 25 06:31PM -0800 On Sun, 24 Dec 2017 04:53:09 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >Frakus being a German brand of electrolytic capacitor with a rapidly increasing failure rate starting at around age 10.   I Googled for "Frakus capacitors" and found nothing. Google refered me to Frako capacitors at: <http://www.frako.com/en/products/power-capacitors/> which is a German company but which makes big power factor correction capacitors for industrial applications that are unlikely to be found inside a Bose Wave CD player. Are you sure about the "Frakus" name?     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Dec 25 05:27PM "~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote in message news:p1o1uc$5km$2@dont-email.me...   > I'm always a bit shy about soldering onto a cell - worried I'll cook it. > That's why I left the nickel strip on in the first place, so it'd be there > if I needed to solder the cell somewhere.   The bus strip is a little more thermal resistance on the way to the cell.   A strong active flux helps make the joint quickly so damage is minimised.

"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Dec 26 12:45PM +1300 Once upon a time on usenet Ian Field wrote: > cell. > A strong active flux helps make the joint quickly so damage is > minimised.   Cheers, -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

JBI <JBI@ez1.net>: Dec 25 01:08PM -0500 >> I'm taking this new heater back, I can't stand the burning plastic smell >> it's producing.   > Buying a more expensive heater from a less-cheap store might be a good idea, too.   The quartz heater I linked to earlier seems to be doing a surprisingly good job. It seems to heat up the room more quickly than the Honeywell did, no smell from the start and not running continuously. The only inconvenience I can find is that the analog thermostat, like the Honeywell, isn't very accurate. If I try presetting it when the timer triggers the heater early morning, it's still plenty cold in the room when I walk in several hours later. Due to that, I just might use the external thermostat (I ordered it before recognizing the possible hazards mentioned prior and it arrived on Saturday) I also mentioned before, but leave the heater thermostat at a point where it won't ever run continuously. I think it would be more accurate than the heater's since it's digital.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 25 01:03PM -0600 On 12/25/17 12:08 PM, JBI wrote: > I think it would be more accurate than the heater's since it's digital.   Being digital does not equal accuracy.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 25 12:11PM -0800 On Monday, 25 December 2017 19:03:38 UTC, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > On 12/25/17 12:08 PM, JBI wrote: > > I think it would be more accurate than the heater's since it's digital.   > Being digital does not equal accuracy.   no not at all. Portable heaters with bimetal stats tend to lack compensation, without which the stat is almost useless.     NT

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Dec 25 09:57AM -0800 On Sunday, December 24, 2017 at 5:56:45 AM UTC-5, frank wrote:   > > yellow is used in lieu of gold for tolerance - it's non-metallic.   > the resistors I'm talking about have both gold (as 4th band) and yellow > as 5th band.   Too bad there is usually so little difference between yellow and gold as opposed to blue and gold or silver and gold.

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