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"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Feb 16 02:04PM +1300 Once upon a time on usenet Jeff Liebermann wrote: > photos as dive into the machine. Seems to impress (or panic) the > customer. For example: > <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/repair/HP%20Envy%20m6%20clogged%20fan/slides/HP%20Envy%20m6%20A10%20CPU.html>   I had to LOL at that. I have an HP Envy dv7 laptop that I don't use anymore even though it's by far my most modern computer. Being an invalid with chronic lower back pain vacuuming is one of the most crippling household chores so it doesn't get done as often as I'd like.   The Envy has such a high air through-put that it doesn't take long to injest enough dust to start causing problems. Also it's no IBM ThinkPad when it comes to dis/assembly and has quite a few plastic tabs which won't handle many cycles before breaking.   So I still use my ThinkPad T60 / 2GB RAM Win XP while my envy with i7 / full HD display / 32GB SSD-accelerated 1TB HDD / 16GB RAM sits in a drawer. I used it for a week or two but could tell that even in tat time and trying to be careful of dust the airflow was reducing... This T60 pushes far less air through and is simple to pull down once a year to clean the fan and fins.   I got the dv7 from a neighbour who offered it to me in return for data recovery from it. (It got so hot that it wouldn't run for long, the RAM was 'cooked' and causing HDD corruption every time they tried to read from it and it randomly shut down. I installed the new 16GB after I was happy there was a good chance it would work again.) Maybe I'll get to use it when I finally have to go into assisted living - if people still use laptops then. -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 16 08:13AM -0800 On Fri, 16 Feb 2018 14:04:33 +1300, "~misfit~" >> photos as dive into the machine. Seems to impress (or panic) the >> customer. For example: >> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/repair/HP%20Envy%20m6%20clogged%20fan/slides/HP%20Envy%20m6%20A10%20CPU.html>   Photo of the above heat pipe radiator AFTER I blew compressed air into the area from the outside. The only way to get the crud out is to tear it apart. <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/repair/HP%20Envy%20m6%20clogged%20fan/slides/clogged_fan.html>   Also, this one way it could be easily cleaned: <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/repair/Dell%20Inspiron%201525/index.html> The bottom cover comes off exposing the entire heat pipe assembly, which is then easily cleaned. Too bad Dell (or Foxcom) designed it into a crappy machine (Inspiron 1525) with miserable BGA soldering.   More later. Gotta run.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Feb 15 05:07PM -0600 Fox's Mercantile wrote:     >>> Anyone here running the Asterisk BX with the FreePBX GUI?   >> I don't know what BX is (Business Exchange??)   > It's a typo because I make mistakes. ;-) I meant PBX. I mostly guessed that.   > I want to replace my Panasonic 6x16 hybrid system. > Two copper lines from the phone company and a third line from a > Magic Jack. 16 analog extensions and a door phone.   OK, that's about what I did. I had a NEC system from the '80s, and the damn thing just kept chuggung along. But, finally, it croaked, and I was already partly set up with Asterisk and some phone extensions. So, suddenly, I needed to get the Asterisk system up and running. > I'm using the TDM2400P 24-port analog card. Four FXO inputs and > twenty FXS outputs. I managed to get the "internal" extensions > and the door phone, a Bogen ADP1, to work.   I'd skip the FXS ports, and just get VOIP stations. I got a bunch of Snom 300 basic phone extensions for $5 each on eBay! Some don't have PoE, so you want to be sure to get the ones with that feature. I got a cheap 48V PoE switch and ran cables where the phones would be, in a lot of places using the old quad wire from the NEC to pull the Cat 5 cable in. I already had the Cat 5 crimping tool from TP Ethernet work. > "RTFM" and my favorite "Read the FreePBX Wiki." > <https://wiki.freepbx.org/display/FOP/Door+Phones> > Very useful.   Umm, yes, the whole purpose of FreePBX seems to be to sell Sangoma phones and hosting. If you are not using Sangoma products, the support is a bit less helpful. > The problem I'm having is I can't dial out or receive incoming > calls.   Ouch, that is a fairly serious non-functioning situation. It seems rather FEW people are using the analog stuff. I got the FXO cards working, but am still not real happy with the echo cancellation on my real telco POTS line. The copper line that is 20 feet long to my cable-VOIP modem is great, however, sounds like a recording studio.   I know nothing about FXS ports. But, for sure, you want to get a VOIP extension up, then you can try debugging one side of the analog at a time. You can actually use any computer with a headset to run VOIP software.   The DAHDI setup for the FXO lines was not just plug and play, but it wasn't too bad. Then, there were all the connection rule files for dialing and routing incoming calls. I'm sorry, I went through this about 18 months ago, and have started forgetting some of the details. The system has just been running for some time and is just like an appliance, now. The event logging is really helpful when things are not going right, they give a LOT of info on the steps happening when you try to dial out or a call comes in. If you haven't looked there, that's where you should start.   Oh, and there are a FEW things that cannot be done in the FreePBX GUI system -- now, of course, I am not remembering what they were.   Jon

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 15 07:03PM -0600 On 2/15/18 5:07 PM, Jon Elson wrote: > I'd skip the FXS ports, and just get VOIP stations.   That's all well and good, except the house is already wired with CAT3 wiring. Only two of the extension locations have an RJ45 connection available, so VoIP isn't really an option.   > Umm, yes, the whole purpose of FreePBX seems to be to sell Sangoma < phones and hosting. If you are not using Sangoma products, the > support is a bit less helpful.   Yes.   I wrote: >> The problem I'm having is I can't dial out or receive incoming >> calls.   > Ouch, that is a fairly serious non-functioning situation.   Yeah, that "feature" is sort of important.   > Oh, and there are a FEW things that cannot be done in the FreePBX > GUI system -- now, of course, I am not remembering what they were.   One of which was setting up the extensions_custom.conf file for the door phone. And of course, figuring out how to get the right set of commands to make it work.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Aleksandar Kuktin <akuktin@gmail.com>: Feb 16 12:23PM On Wed, 14 Feb 2018 17:16:34 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:   > On 2/14/18 2:44 PM, Jon Elson wrote: >> Fox's Mercantile wrote:   >>> Anyone here running the Asterisk BX with the FreePBX GUI?   Yeah, kind-of sort-of.   >> Wow, the setup was BRUTAL, there's a LOT you have to figure out the >> hard way.   > The FreePBX forums are almost as brutal.   The whole Asterisk configuration act is brutal. It's probably an elaborate test to find the Chosen One.   > FXS outputs. I managed to get the "internal" extensions and the door > phone, a Bogen ADP1, to work.   > The problem I'm having is I can't dial out or receive incoming calls.   I'm not experienced enough to see the problem immediately, but here's how I would debug.   First, can the phones on the inside (16 analog + door) call each other? If so, then at least you did something right.   Second, make sure Asterisk sees all the lines. The outbound lines (two from the phone company and the magic jack) probably need to be configured as "trunk" lines.   It is ideal to have some kind of real-time logging to observe Asterisk in operation. Maybe you can SSH into the PBX? If so, you can get the logs directly from Asterisk by running some command...   The point here is to use Asterisk logs to verify Asterisk interacts with all the lines. If you call yourself (the phone number associated with phone company lines), Asterisk should light up. Notice that if Asterisk isn't registering activity, maybe you misconfigured it, or maybe the phone company doesn't forward calls to the line.   Anyway, once you've configured all the lines, you need to create a proper dialplan. This is where things get interesting, but basically the inbound call from some line will trigger some point in the dialplan and you need to specify what other line will be called and connected to this one.   This is too generic, I know and I'm sorry about that - but I really don't have a FreePBX before me now, and I can't remember the exact bits of the FreePBX interface.   Make sure to check all of the options in the GUI - I know that some Asterisk based PBX-es require you to set a kind of permission to call out in some GUI section that is both non-obvious and far removed from the dialplan.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 16 07:05AM -0600 On 2/16/18 6:23 AM, Aleksandar Kuktin wrote: > On Wed, 14 Feb 2018 17:16:34 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:   > The whole Asterisk configuration act is brutal. It's probably an > elaborate test to find the Chosen One.   It would appear to be that way.   > how I would debug.   > First, can the phones on the inside (16 analog + door) call each other? > If so, then at least you did something right.   Yes, I seem to have gotten that part right. Internal to internal is working, the Ring Groups are working and I got the door phone working.   > Second, make sure Asterisk sees all the lines. The outbound lines (two > from the phone company and the magic jack) probably need to be > configured as "trunk" lines.   I went thought the exercise again from scratch. Step 1. DHADI configure DID. To assign a Direct Inward Dialing number to each incoming line on an FXO port.   > It is ideal to have some kind of real-time logging to observe Asterisk in > operation.   Two methods. At the command line on the box (not the GUI) asterisk -rvvvvvvvvvv > /media/usb/call.text or cp /var/log/asterisk/full /media/usb/full.txt   > Anyway, once you've configured all the lines, you need to create a proper > dialplan.   I found one of the problems. Outbound Routes Silly me, 1 234 567 8901 is an 11 digit number. Helps to have "11 digit" in the dial plan.   > This is too generic, I know and I'm sorry about that - but I really don't > have a FreePBX before me now, and I can't remember the exact bits of the > FreePBX interface.   Don't apologize, all information is good.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Aleksandar Kuktin <akuktin@gmail.com>: Feb 16 01:16PM On Fri, 16 Feb 2018 07:05:05 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:     > Yes, I seem to have gotten that part right. > Internal to internal is working, the Ring Groups are working and I got > the door phone working.   Well, than you are in the finnish line. :)   >> in operation.   > Two methods. At the command line on the box (not the GUI) > asterisk -rvvvvvvvvvv   YES! THAT! It was at the tip of my fingers. ^^     > I found one of the problems. Outbound Routes Silly me, 1 234 567 8901 is > an 11 digit number. Helps to have "11 digit" > in the dial plan.   Yes! Outbound Routes. There is also another one. DID and/or DOD. I remeber we needed to set them properly, but that was for an all-VOIP instalation. We use SIP, it carries metadata about the call, but maybe the analog line also carries the same information, just in a different format?

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 16 07:38AM -0600 On 2/16/18 7:16 AM, Aleksandar Kuktin wrote: > set them properly, but that was for an all-VOIP instalation. > We use SIP, it carries metadata about the call, but maybe the analog > line also carries the same information, just in a different format?   An analog telco line does NOT include DID. They rightly assume, "It's a physical line, there's a tag at the demarc telling you what the number is (and always is.)   The way around that is DAHDI Configure DID. You can assign a "fake" DID to an analog FXO port. This way the PBX thinks an incoming call has "xxxx" for the DID and does the Inbound Routes using the DID like it's supposed to.   I suppose if you have more than one incoming line and you pay extra for a hunt group, you would assign all the incoming FXO ports the same "fake" DID using the primary number DID.         -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Aleksandar Kuktin <ak@triklod.rs>: Feb 16 01:52PM I just discovered I was using my old e-mail address when posting. This is the correct one. The old still works, but is deprecated.   On Fri, 16 Feb 2018 07:38:31 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:     > I suppose if you have more than one incoming line and you pay extra for > a hunt group, you would assign all the incoming FXO ports the same > "fake" DID using the primary number DID.   Well, you are a bigger expert on this than I. ^^ I'm afraid I dumped most of my internal knowledge, and from this point on I can only look at the interface and try to figure out the solution.   check lines/channels - done set up the dial plan - done fix those DID/DOD things - done

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 15 03:46PM -0600 On Thu, 15 Feb 2018 08:20:58 -0500, Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote:   >11). They are the same as in the KT-76 manual, and rather confusing.   >Regards, >Tim   After correcting the URL error in the original posting, I did manage to download this file and yea, it does have the operating instructions, which I agree are confusing. I have not yet had a chance to really study it. I need to find some unhurried time to really learn it.   Maybe it's not as complicated as it seems, once I get to understand it, but right now, I'm thinking how simple the old analog radios are and wondering why I got myself into this project.   Either way, thanks to all for the URL for this. The "user manual" does not seem to exist anywhere online, for free. I went to a high speed WIFI and thoroughly looked, rather than spend hours trying to do the same on my dialup service at home. I did find the manuals in PDF format for $4.99 and would have probably paid that amount, but they not only wanted me to sign up and register to their service but also wont accept payment by credit card or mail in check. Too much bullshit, and I dont have, or want an actual Paypal account. When I use Ebay, I actually pay thru Paypal, but just do it with my credit card and its done.   I also found a printed manual on ebay for around $12, but in all honesty I will probably sell this tuner as soon as I know it's working properly. I dont care for things that are complicated. I'll stick to my old analog tuner for personal use. Knowing that, I dont want to stick much more money into it.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 15 04:03PM -0600 I run into this all the time. Some people are just total bell ends. (look it up.)   1. They pay $2500 for a piece of equipment but are too cheap to pay for the operating and service manuals. I would think for that kind of investment, the manuals would be a good idea.   2. They pay $25 for a $2500 piece of equipment. Same story. Too cheap to pay for the manuals, "But I only paid $25 for it." With the money you saved you can afford the manuals.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 15 06:38PM -0800 On Thursday, February 15, 2018 at 5:04:04 PM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > I run into this all the time. > Some people are just total bell ends. (look it up.)   LOL. Never heard of that before.   You are a veritable font of off the wall information Jeff!!

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 15 08:41PM -0600 On 2/15/18 8:38 PM, John-Del wrote: >> Some people are just total bell ends. (look it up.)   > LOL. Never heard of that before.   > You are a veritable font of off the wall information Jeff!!   Thank you dear....     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Feb 16 03:28PM +1300 Once upon a time on usenet BenAnd wrote:   > What material bit for either 1/4" OR 1/8" shank hand drill motor or > Dremel is best to use ?   > I have many of these to do.   I'd use the Dremel CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) wheels. I bought a few to test them and they are great for jobs with steel. -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Feb 16 01:38PM +1300 Once upon a time on usenet amdx wrote:   >> Jonesy   > After googling IJFW and going to deep I found, > IJFW » Impressionable Joyous Fearless Wise   It Just Fucking Works?   I've never seen the acronym before but I find most acronyms can be deciphered using context and imagination. -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>: Feb 15 11:54AM -0800 Hi,   Recently my IBM/Lenovo ThinkCentre(Tower) would not turn on. There was no indication of failure on last run.   Did some power supply problem searching and one thing mentioned was a blown fuse.   Took the cover off and checked for leaking or bulging caps but found none.   Also checked for std fuse but also found none. Am wondering if it may have a fusible link?   Also searched for the schematics for the DPS-310CD but to date have not found any.   Appreciate any help!   Thanks   Ken

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 15 10:26AM -0800 >"Sony is notorious for using really bad lubricants that turn into mud. Many problems in VCRs (including broadcast machines) can be restored by cleaning out the krud and re lubing. "   Not this time. Everything moves smoothly.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 15 10:30AM -0800 Though I do have a 920 around that I will not plug in because they are known for tearing up the rack gear that moves the arm that pulls the tare around the pinch roller. That needs to addressed eventually when it goes back into service. but this 780 is a totally different deck, called an H mechanism. It is newer. And all the grease looks good.   I am convinced the problem is not mechanical.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 15 11:01AM -0800 >"The first thing to do is replace any rubber drive bands, especially on loading/eject cycle and mode switch."   There is only one belt from the capstan motor to the idler assembly and it is a toothed belt. There is also a tensioner and it isn't even stretched. And there are no switches on the loading mech.   >"Check the plastic pinion on the mode switch drive motor spindle is not cracked , due to temp changes and steel/plastic expansion probs"   Looks good, there are no cracks.   This thing is something, the way it detects a tape I have determined is with the record prevent switch and the end sensors. There literally isn't anything else. When there is no tape in the machine the record prevent switch is not allowing record. The micro knows this because whenever there is a tape in it art least one end sensor is covered. If neither is covered and it is not allowed to record it knows there is no tape in it. When you push a tape in the linkage allows the switch to go to allow record and it runs the motor and draws it in. At that point, determined by the position of the mode switch it knows if the record prevent is really on or off on this tape. If off it loads further and pulls the tape around the pinch roller and across the ACE head for the linear time counter. If on it proceeds that little bit more into play as most machines do.   It uses the same motor for everything except the capstan and reels. There are no switches on the loading mech. Pretty nifty how they do that eh ? This is an H deck and the first one of its kind I have ever worked on. And I got some bits and pieces of manuals, and of the one that seems to be complete as well as the one for the deck only, neither one shows the "setting condition" where the little marks on the gears go when you recomombobulate it. You have to figure it out for yourself I guess. I got it mostly figured out, at the expense of some time. Took a few hours, in the old days it would have been minutes. My spatial and 3D reasoning was better, and Icould see. Now Ihave to do everything with almost no depth perception. Sometime Ithink I am tinning a wire ad I fid outI and burning my hand or something.   I have determined that the problem is not in the deck itself, it is in the mode switch connection to the board, or an end sensor, or something on the board in the system control.   A couple of the error code mean it can't figure out what position it is in, which means mode switch or end sensor(s). Once I rule out the end sensor(s), if one of them is not the problem, then I guess I have to follow the connections from the mode switch all the way to the processor.   The processor may actually be bad, the thing works a few times and then acts up. If it is going thermal I can try some spray solvent to cool it off and see if it starts working again. I would bet my left nut that it is no longer available, so if that is the case i will try some sort of heat sinking, like with that thermally conductive glue used on other surface mount chips. Though I haven't seen it yet, it is a good bet that it is surface mount.   If it doesn't work I will have to dig up that old 920 and see if I can make that work. I won't even plug it in until the lube on the arm is redone because they are notorious for tearing up that big long rack gear, and I bet that is pure unobtainium.   the micro should be the same in many models, I might be able to scare up a used one, but I don't have the proper tools to change it.   Six of one, half a dozen of the other. Damned if you do.

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