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micmouse10@aol.com: Feb 18 06:31AM -0800 Did you ever get this fixed??

micmouse10@aol.com: Feb 18 06:31AM -0800 DId you ever get this fixed?

ggherold@gmail.com: Feb 17 10:11AM -0800 On Friday, January 26, 2018 at 2:45:57 PM UTC-5, BenAnd wrote:   > What material bit for either 1/4" OR 1/8" shank hand drill motor or > Dremel is best to use ?   > I have many of these to do.   Can you just re-cut the end? Maybe a step drill bit, or a conical bit. (A dremel sounds a bit wimpy for the job, unless it's thin walled SS.)   George H.

MOP CAP <email@domain.com>: Feb 17 01:55PM -0800 I may not understand exactly what you mean. When plumbers and electrician cut pipe or conduit they use a conical pipe reamer or for lighter pipe a flat vee shaped one. CP

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 17 05:06PM -0500 In article <5bcf8620-15e5-4969-8a62-9d196751cc9c@googlegroups.com>, ggherold@gmail.com says... > (A dremel sounds a bit wimpy for the job, unless it's thin walled > SS.)   > George H.   Did anyone mention a tapered reamer ? The pipe threading machines usually have them built in.

KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>: Feb 17 09:09AM -0800 Hi   Update since posting.   Did not get an immediate response so went to Youtube and searched using diagnosis repair Delta Electronics DPS-310CD ATX power supplies got ~ 197 results. Then started watching the videos.   One thing mentioned was to wait a while for caps to discharge so decided to take plenty of time and waited until this morning to test.   First thing I did was to recheck all the caps for bulges or leaks. Found none. Also rechecked for burn marks on pc board and components. Also found none. Still was unable to identify anything that looked like a fuse. Would be nice to find a schematic for DPS-310CD. Have done some searching but to date have not found one.   Then decided to try starting. Followed the connect green and black wires of main power connector http://www.instructables.com/id/Take-a-Look-Inside-a-ATX-power-supply-for-computer/ to start and was surprised that green lite on PSU came on and got readings of 11.89V for yellow and black, and 5.15V for red and black wires of a parallel HDD connector.   Am wondering if 11.89V for HDDs is too low? I do not have a scope to check the wave form but the readings were stable on my meter.

KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>: Feb 17 09:12AM -0800 Update cont.   Forgot to mention the Fan came on when started..

KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>: Feb 17 09:15AM -0800 Eric,   "Recently I had a power supply in a computer that was going bad. It wouldn't work properly until it was warm. I replaced it but before I did I found that directing the warm air from a blow dryer through the fan and warming the power supply would allow it to turn on. Once on it would stay on."   Any ideas why it needed to be warm?

KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>: Feb 17 09:19AM -0800 Ralph,   "I had a piece of equipment with a power supply that had lots of capacitors in it. I found the bad ones by directing the hot air from my hot air rework station at them."   That was what I was expecting to find!

etpm@whidbey.com: Feb 17 10:50AM -0800 On Sat, 17 Feb 2018 09:15:02 -0800 (PST), KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com> wrote:   >fan and warming the power supply would allow it to turn on. Once on it >would stay on."   >Any ideas why it needed to be warm? I was told by some folks here who know about this stuff that failing electrolytic capacitors will sometimes work better once warm. They do not need to be bulging to be bad or going bad. Eric

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 17 04:51PM -0500 In article <f22ea9c5-13ac-4e5c-87a5-839f6e2915aa@googlegroups.com>, kenitholson@yahoo.com says...   > One thing mentioned was to wait a while for caps to discharge so decided to take plenty of time and waited until this morning to test.   > First thing I did was to recheck all the caps for bulges or leaks. Found none. Also rechecked for burn marks on pc board and components. Also found none. Still was unable to identify anything that looked like a fuse. Would be nice to find a schematic for DPS-310CD. Have done some searching but to date have not found one.   > Then decided to try starting. Followed the connect green and black wires of main power connector http://www.instructables.com/id/Take-a-Look-Inside-a-ATX-power-supply-for-computer/ to start and was surprised that green lite on PSU came on and got readings of 11.89V for yellow and black, and 5.15V for red and black wires of a parallel HDD connector.   > Am wondering if 11.89V for HDDs is too low? I do not have a scope to check the wave form but the readings were stable on my meter.       11.89 is fine for the 12 volt line.

KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>: Feb 17 10:05AM -0800 Hi,   Inherited an electronics unit that has severe contact corrosion due to bad alkaline batteries.   Appreciate any suggestions how to restore these contacts to working condition.   Thanks   Ken

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 17 11:58AM -0800 On Saturday, February 17, 2018 at 1:05:38 PM UTC-5, KenO wrote:   > Appreciate any suggestions how to restore these contacts to working condition.   > Thanks   > Ken     The first thing to try when removing battery snot is plain old water. If the plating is gone, you'll either have to replate or replace the contacts for reliable contact.

Reinhard Zwirner <reinhard.zwirner@t-online.de>: Feb 17 09:06PM +0100 John-Del schrieb: >> Hi,   >> Inherited an electronics unit that has severe contact corrosion due to bad alkaline batteries.   >> Appreciate any suggestions how to restore these contacts to working condition.   As has been suggested in a previous thread: (concentrated) white vinegar.   HTH   Reinhard

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Feb 17 08:38PM "KenO" <kenitholson@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:0b5dd2ba-3e16-48b6-8eb3-6fefbf4e4f96@googlegroups.com...   > Appreciate any suggestions how to restore these contacts to working > condition.   > Thanks   Dry corrosion/residue is best removed mechanically - once its clean enough for reliable contact, give it a squirt of silicone spray.   Don't try rebuilding contact surfaces with solder, oxidisation makes unreliable contact - sometimes its possible to graft on a strip of clean metal - solder it on, but don't get any on the contact surface.

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