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JBI <JBI@ez1.net>: Feb 23 10:22AM -0500 I am using a standard 400 W 12 VDC to 120 VAC inverter to power my laptop in the car. While this works well, lately I've started doing audio work with the laptop and feeding the laptop 1/8" audio jack output into an amp hooked into the car radio. While the laptop is plugged into the inverter, I get much noise over the audio system. I know the noise is coming from the inverter, so how would I negate it? I've tried about 5 snap closed ferrite cores around the power cable going into the laptop but they haven't helped. Thanks.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Feb 22 09:26PM Please can anyone help with a link for ipod SW?   Rescued a couple of different models from the flats bin room, but they seem to be locked.   Thanks.

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Feb 22 01:32PM -0800 On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 3:26:16 PM UTC-6, Ian Field wrote:   > Rescued a couple of different models from the flats bin room, but they seem > to be locked.   > Thanks.   apple.com?   Couldn't resist.

jack4747@gmail.com: Feb 22 11:46PM -0800 Il giorno giovedì 22 febbraio 2018 22:26:16 UTC+1, Ian Field ha scritto:   > Rescued a couple of different models from the flats bin room, but they seem > to be locked.   > Thanks.   reset with iTunes.   Bye Jack

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Feb 23 12:25PM > Please can anyone help with a link for ipod SW?   > Rescued a couple of different models from the flats bin room, but they seem > to be locked.   Depends on what you mean by "locked".   If it says something along the lines of iCloud Activation Lock and it wants a password for an email account, you might as well put them back in the bin room. You can't get around that without the password and or a receipt for the purchase and take it an Apple store. It's an anti-theft measure.   If it's just some 4 or 6 digit number lock, or a message saying the device is locked and the max number of attempts has been reached, I beleive all you need is a computer with iTunes running on it, put the device into the DFU mode (google it) and restore as a new device.   That'll erase everything on it but it'll still be useable as a new device.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 22 10:53AM -0600 On 2/21/18 8:59 AM, FreeMan wrote: > Only generates Ozone when you hear a snap. > There is an ozone filter in it they say.   The manual says it generates ionized air. That by definition is ozone     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Feb 23 09:05AM >> There is an ozone filter in it they say.   > The manual says it generates ionized air. > That by definition is ozone   No. You can generate ion flow if yo keep voltage at point below actual beginning of arching. ozone is normally higher voltage AC so mix charges. The mixed charged ion generator is used in various production like electronics for static removal, like bench work. Also used on air spray nozzles. Ion generators make particles stick to walls, filters, etc. With an ion generator, it should produce no more ozone than sunshine.   I hate those barrel fans.   Greg

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Feb 22 06:31PM "Gareth Magennis" wrote in message news:p%ijC.119756$3X6.90914@fx22.am4...   OK, so I have one of these to repair, which is missing the "tail" antenna on the transmitter.   http://www.samsontech.com/samson/products/wireless-systems/airline/airline-ag1/       Now I know very little about RF, antennae etc. I can't get a replacement antenna for this, so how feasible would it be to make one?   I assume this will be a fine coil of wire covered in rubber, e.g. a tiny rubber ducky?   Or could you just attach a long wire and roll/pack it up and attach the blob to the guitar/guitarist?       Cheers,     Gareth.       ****************************************     Well a piece of wire worked a treat.   With a bit of heatshrink for strain relief at the transmitter end and another on the end of the tail, it even looks like a proper one.     Thanks to all for the calculations and info.       Cheers,     Gareth.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 22 05:41PM -0800 Gareth Magennis wrote:   -----------------------   > Well a piece of wire worked a treat.   > With a bit of heatshrink for strain relief at the transmitter end and > another on the end of the tail, it even looks like a proper one.   ** So now you know how to make a "rat tail" antenna.     > Thanks to all for the calculations and info.     ** 300 / MHz = wavelength in metres, is worth remembering.     FYI:   That AG-1 unit is about as basic as UHF FM links get, so has limited useful range and is prone to signal drops out due to multipath interference. The Tx signal can almost cancel itself after reflecting off objects and surfaces and then arriving at the Rx.   Better models have twin channel receivers, with two separated antennas, operating as a diversity pair that helps greatly to eliminate such drop outs.       .... Phil

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Feb 23 08:53AM >> difference on how long it is, from 3 inchs to a foot long.   > It could be a coaxial type full wave.   > Greg   Meant 1/2 wave.   Greg

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