- Casio Wave Ceptor radio controlled watch, WR50M - 2 Updates
- 125v e3A fuse needed - 4 Updates
- Panasonic PVR DMR-HWT130 - 2 Updates
- WD-40 to clean electric contacts? - 4 Updates
- Need a button for Sony Cfd-s350 - 4 Updates
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 11 10:58AM I could not find any pics of the internals of these watches, so pic here http://diverse.4mg.com/casio_wr50m_r.jpg The wire to the antenna broke , handling the pcb for this pic and self-weight of the small coil, not before, but it is obviously a week point at the solder points if subjected to a lot of vibration. For the moment I'll clean battery and contacts and reaasemble to check that I can and run for a while, until date 2005 returns presumably, and hopefully find out more info on the internals. The yellow caret marks a SMD with 200mV on it 20 minutes after removing the button cell, 3.06V open cct voltage. Seems 3 crystals relate to the radio blob and 1 for the watch. Red is my mark for +ve so I can solder a pair of wires to convenient spot , to power from 3V to monitor some DC levels at least, next time of playing with it that is. Beware of the tiny phosphor-bronze spring dropping out, on disassembly of the 2-part plastic sub-frame, it connects to the piezo sounder. Battery contact simply slides to release battery. A number of tangs need prizing back with a needle to release the metal screen and 4 spring tangs for the button returns. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 11 02:37PM Reassembled resoldering antenna wire and a small spot of hotmelt glue "strain relief", deliberately leaving out the piezo contact. Watch returned to non-rc function but button A spring must have been misplaced and no function. Could reasign London instead of Tokyo and left in timesetting mode , with flashing seconds. It later dropped into normal timekeeping mode and could then select RC! , we'll see if full function returns and then go back inside with more confidence, to take voltages and play with SM or whatever. |
| ajfaiola@gmail.com: Mar 10 07:34PM -0800 where can i buy a 125v e3A fuse for my vcr? tony |
| Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Mar 10 10:59PM -0500 > where can i buy a 125v e3A fuse for my vcr? > tony > Tony, not really familiar with that designation. First, a 125V or a 250V rating will be fine. You'd be best off mentioning the make and model of you VCR. To answer your question these vendors will have a vast array of fuses: www.mouser.com www.digikey.com It is unusual for a fuse to blow just for the heck of it. If it is a typical glass tube fuse, is the element broken or has it plated the inside of the glass? If a second fuse blows right away, there are other issues in your VCR. Regards, Tim |
| Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Mar 11 07:44PM +1100 On 11/03/2018 2:59 PM, Tim Schwartz wrote: > If a second fuse blows right away, there are other issues in your VCR. > Regards, > Tim **A VCR? Is this guy from Azerbaijan? YIKES! -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 11 01:36AM -0800 > where can i buy a 125v e3A fuse for my vcr? > tony depends on its size & type, and which country you're in. |
| Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: Mar 11 08:12AM On 06/03/18 15:44, Jeff Layman wrote: Found the service manual on elektrotanya. It didn't turn up on a StartPage search, but did on Google itself. -- Jeff |
| Pimpom <Pimpom@invalid.invalid>: Mar 11 03:01PM +0530 On 3/10/2018 6:30 PM, Jeff Layman wrote: > Is it usual for equipment with identical model numbers to be so > different in different parts of the world? Unfortunately, yes, especially if you use the term "identical model numbers" loosely, in which case there are often numerous variants of the same basic model even in the same country. IMO the worst offenders are laptop and cellphone manufacturers. When I wanted to buy a high mid-range laptop for my architecture-student son a few years ago, it was a real PITA to choose from, not only different models but also from the numerous sub-variants of each model with slightly different suffixes. One Samsung model alone had about twenty variants!! |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 10 11:00AM -0600 On 3/10/18 9:56 AM, John Robertson wrote: > do is done better by products designed for the job. WD-40 usually gums > up after a year or so, so I can't imagine it will do your pot any good > in the long run. I have WD-40 in my shop. The ONLY thing I use it for is removing label adhesive residue. I once had someone tell me, "I use WD-40 on pots because they are too fragile to use anything else." (With regards to antique radios.) If they're THAT fragile, they should be replaced. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 10 05:24PM -0800 On 2018/03/10 9:00 AM, Fox's Mercantile wrote: >> in the long run. > I have WD-40 in my shop. > The ONLY thing I use it for is removing label adhesive residue. Goof-off or Goo-Gone are probably cheaper per volume, and they can be dripped on instead of sprayed so your supply lasts a lot longer. John :-#)# |
| gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Mar 11 08:42AM > cleaning stuff or lead to make paint white, solder for water pipes...we > have moved on. > John :-#(# Never seen WD40 gum up, but it dries with a film. One of the popular cleaners is Nathpha, or like Coleman Fuel. It dries slow enough to use mechanical switch action to clean. For lube I like CRC 2-26. Greg |
| Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Mar 11 10:04AM +0100 The right product is Siceront KF F2, an excellent contact cleaner. It is either curative and preventive. marty a écrit : |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 10 09:18AM -0800 > Greetings.....I've always been impressed at the depth of knowledge displayed within this group so this might be the right place to ask my question(s). > I own a portable cassette player....Sony Cfd-s350.....that is in need of a new "play" button. I was able to easily lift out the broken button. The Sony website has the replacement button (through a company named Encompass) for a mere $2.32, but the postage is more than 3 times the cost of the part. glue the old one back together or buy a new one - what else is there? > Does anyone know of a source where I can obtain the button without being price-gouged on postage? Also, how easy or difficult is it to install the button? Will I be able to just pop it in or will I have to unscrew and disassemble anything on the unit? > Thanks in advance. you're the one with the mechanism, you take a look & tell us. |
| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 10 01:31PM -0800 >> Does anyone know of a source where I can obtain the button without being price-gouged on postage? It cost the same to mail a $2 button as it does to make a 2K diamond (assuming you're not adding insurance), so I wouldn't call it "gouging" >>Also, how easy or difficult is it to install the button? Will I be able to just pop it in or will I have to unscrew and disassemble anything on the unit? Look at the knob: if it has a flange wider than the space it takes to insert it through the vacated opening, you'll have to remove the transport. OTOH, if it does require transport removal, you can Dremel the button down and snap it in from the outside if you don't mind the wider gap that will result from the trimmed plastic removed. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 10 03:14PM -0800 On Saturday, 10 March 2018 21:31:32 UTC, John-Del wrote: > On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 1:20:33 AM UTC-5, mik...@live.com wrote: > >> Does anyone know of a source where I can obtain the button without being price-gouged on postage? > It cost the same to mail a $2 button as it does to make a 2K diamond (assuming you're not adding insurance), so I wouldn't call it "gouging" It's Sony, of course they're going to 'gouge' you. > >>Also, how easy or difficult is it to install the button? Will I be able to just pop it in or will I have to unscrew and disassemble anything on the unit? > Look at the knob: if it has a flange wider than the space it takes to insert it through the vacated opening, you'll have to remove the transport. OTOH, if it does require transport removal, you can Dremel the button down and snap it in from the outside if you don't mind the wider gap that will result from the trimmed plastic removed. and the resulting weakness or dropping off tendency. NT |
| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 10 07:26PM -0800 > > Look at the knob: if it has a flange wider than the space it takes to insert it through the vacated opening, you'll have to remove the transport. OTOH, if it does require transport removal, you can Dremel the button down and snap it in from the outside if you don't mind the wider gap that will result from the trimmed plastic removed. > and the resulting weakness or dropping off tendency. Not true. None of those machines use anything else but the shaft to hold the buttons on. If it pops off because the mechanism trades functions with a significant snap (that a bottom skirt might contain), a tiny bit of loctite or even a shmear of RTV will keep the button in place. Besides, there's a 99 percent probability the transport does not have to come out. Most of those buttons just push on the shaft and are held in by friction and no part of the button is larger than the opening. A few buttons are molded with skirts but the vast majority are not. I've seen some high end machines with floating buttons but never on a bottom feeder like this one. |
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