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jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 14 02:14AM -0700 Those gauges are usually electromagnetic type, two coils, one for field. This makes them self regulate with system voltage changes. Many of the at type simply float anywhere in the absence of any power applied, but different designs of course may act differently.   It is possible that the reading voltage is removed before the field voltage, which would cause this.   In many cars, the ACC voltage is not directly controlled by the ignition switch. There may be a slight delay in the computer turning off that voltage.   Actually I prefer cars the old way. When you turn the switch on the light goes on, when you turn it off the light goes off. i don't need the radio and windows to work after the key is off before a door is opened. One day I will buy a car and it will be an old one. The older the better, to a point. by about 1970 they got the suspension pretty right and they ran right. newer cars are detuned to keep O2 in the catalytic. If they ran at stoichometry the light would go on.   I had to get rid of a couple of cars because of wiring/electrical problems. It is ridiculous.   I also had one car in which sometimes the tach would run backwards. it was a Dodge, which I usually don't buy. It wasn't mine I just drove it. We used to just grab whatever was last in the driveway. Another thing they changed, we had bonds and were covered on any car period, now you have to pay extra for that. Another thing that is new and improved.   But I am pretty sure about those gauges, I am pretty sure if you leave that car sit for a few days especially on a sideways grade those needles would float into another position. But don't try it, the wheels might fall off. LOL

Mike_Duffy <mqduffy001@bell.net>: Mar 14 10:45AM -0400 > [...] I don't need the radio and windows to work > after the key is off before a door is opened.   Yes, my car does this.   Also, when I said "If a door is open, that's about how long the interior lights take to start dimming." is inaccurate. It should be:   If a door is opened, the interior lights turn on. If the door is subsequently closed, there is a delay of several seconds until the lights start to dim, eventually fading out.     And yesterday, the engine 'indicator' came on. I made a garage appointment for this afternoon, during which I expect to spend time & money. The last time the light came on was a major repair (cheap part, but lots of labour) to something deep inside the engine that adjusted valve timing based on load, etc.   The engine warranty was still in effect, but they tried to tell me that it was not part of the engine despite being completely surrounded by engine. I asked them to clarify this with management and they made a "squeaky wheel" exception for me because I am such a loyal client. (I.e. all oil & tire changes I always have done at the dealer.) Apparently, the garage paid the bill, not Ford.

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Mar 14 09:27AM -0700 No. Those gauges are certainly stepper motors. You're seeing them find "home". There is no position feedback, so there has to be a regular process of resetting the pointers.

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Mar 14 09:36AM -0700 Part of my job is managing component warranty returns for my employer, a vehicle OEM. I see this regularly, I can say with high certainty that the manufacturer paid for the repairs. If the dealer did this, he'd go broke. They work on razor thin service margins and are under constant pressure from the OEM to reduce repair times.   The dealer may have left you the impression that he paid the bill, but they typically won't even start the repair until they have approval for the repair work from the OEM. A large percentage of claims are just like yours, where the coverage is contested and the goodwill is taken care of by the OEM.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Mar 13 12:07PM -0700 I don't have an existing opinion on the terminology, but because I was curious I looked it up.   According to How Stuff Works,   aliphatic hydrocarbons from C1 to C4 are gases.   C5 - C7 are naphthas, also used in dry cleaning solvents, so maybe Stoddard solvents is accurate.   C7 - C11 are blended to make gasoline.   C12 - C15 is the kerosene range.   Lubricating oils are longer carbon chains, and when we get above C20 we get solids, waxes.   The MSDS for WD-40 is not real specific. It says aliphatic hydrocarbons 45-50%, LVP aliphatic hydrocarbons 12 - 18%, petroleum base oils <25%. Snopes says "medium aliphatic hydrocarbons, aka Stoddard solvent."   Not being a chemist, from those descriptions I'd guess it's about 50% "naphtha," a very imprecise term, 20% kerosene, the rest oil.   so I guess you're all correct.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 13 02:29PM -0700 Look up the CAS number.   That will state exactly what each part contains.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 13 06:50PM -0700 Tim R wrote:   ------------     > The MSDS for WD-40 is not real specific. It says aliphatic hydrocarbons 45-50%, LVP aliphatic hydrocarbons 12 - 18%, petroleum base oils <25%. Snopes says "medium aliphatic hydrocarbons, aka Stoddard solvent."   > Not being a chemist, from those descriptions I'd guess it's about 50% "naphtha," a very imprecise term, 20% kerosene, the rest oil.   > so I guess you're all correct.   ** Trying to disparage WD-4O by pointing out it is a mixture of a common solvents and light mineral oil is ridiculous.   Its the *physical properties* of the mixture that make it work. The only way to know how well is to try using it on a variety of jobs over a period of time.   I have done this long ago so am happy to recommend its use and comfortable that most will either have some on hand or can get it cheaply almost anywhere on earth.       ... Phil

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Mar 14 07:55AM > reputation for its name, so now the name is what sells it, except for > people like myself who learned that it's not worth much. From what I > have heard, WD-40 is mostly just Kerosene.   I think PB Blaster will melt polystyrene. Not sure about W40.   Greg

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Mar 14 05:27AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 9:51:02 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote: > of time.   > I have done this long ago so am happy to recommend its use and comfortable that most will either have some on hand or can get it cheaply almost anywhere on earth.   > ... Phil   I've used it for many decades and always have a can nearby. It's not the optimal choice for all applications but most of the time is "good enough."   Reading the MSDS made it clear to me that it's a pretty variable mixture of various chain length hydrocarbons; surely one batch differs significantly from the next.   Oh, and it's far better on locks than graphite.   And terrible on an airgun. (at least on a springer)

avagadro7@gmail.com: Mar 14 06:34AM -0700 https://www.google.com/search?gl=us&tbm=isch&source=hp&ei=pySpWvuLCMmvggf9gaCAAQ&q=electrical+connection+cleaners&oq=electrical+connection+cleaners&gs_l=mobile-gws-img.3...1756.15468..17718...0....425.5126.0j25j1j2j2..........1..mobile-gws-wiz-img.....3..0j41j0i8i30j0i10i24j0i13.nAf7BT%2BxkBs%3D

avagadro7@gmail.com: Mar 14 06:31AM -0700 Funny haha hides under Sonix racks where We found a duplicate speaker system shoveled into a rear tower wit wires n deli amp ...something for your accord.   Filling the spaces Z We stumbled o er Alpine woofer n am headed there see if the monster needs an equalizer please advise.   I'm in the hospital recovering from my research program, again.   The info flow from Sonix blew min with PM Construction workers giving me rib abt HM. Visa vee floating up Baja... HHEHEHAWHOAANORK outside from an lspeaker.

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Mar 13 01:01PM -0700 > A friend of mine has a 120volt string of lights above his swimming pool. There is one 15 amp circuit for both the lighting and the pump motor circuit. This circuit is not protected by a GFCI outlet. The lights however are high enough so that no one can ever reach up and grab them while in the pool. We have had discussions about installing a GFCI on the pool circuit but as of the end of last Summer's swimming season it had not been done. One day last Summer I observed his kids in the pool shooting water blaster pistols in the air. Alarmed I quickly killed power to the lights. Naturally my concern was that someone in the pool shooting water up at the lights could be electrocuted. This brought about an interesting hypothetical discussion. What if the pool lighting circuit were connected through an isolation transformer. In theory then you should be able to grab each side of the secondary without being shocked right? I can't see how the motor could fail and become a shock hazard so I was more concerned about the lights.   > In any event I'm going to install a GFCI on his pool circuit for him before the start of swimming season which will be coming up in a couple of months. Thanks, Lenny   I've heard about how the inductive spark at the run start switch on some of these motors can cause GFCI's to randomly trip out and sometimes they are even destroyed by this. And I know also that with this guy if it starts to become a constant problem the GFCI will simply be replaced with a standard duplex receptacle. So I have to ask if on the off hand chance the motor wiring shorts to ground, and if the motor frame is properly grounded in theory there would be no chance that anyone in the pool would be affected by this....right? Lenny

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 13 06:36PM -0400 In article <640b27de-50ea-4488-bb3f-c4cdf63e79a9@googlegroups.com>, captainvideo462009@gmail.com says...   > I've heard about how the inductive spark at the run start switch on some of these motors can cause GFCI's to randomly trip out and sometimes they are even destroyed by this. And I know also that with this guy if it starts to become a constant problem the GFCI will simply be replaced with a standard duplex receptacle. So I have to ask if on the off hand chance the motor wiring shorts to ground, and if the motor frame is properly grounded in theory there would be no chance that anyone in the pool would be affected by this....right? Lenny   The words Theory and Proper are correct, but sometimes the proper becomes undone and the theory goes out the window.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 13 06:41PM -0500 You're already screwed. You looked at it. Anything that happens now is your fault.   The only recourse you have now is to fix it correctly. And that means no stupid shit with an isolation transformer or any other "white trash" repair ideas you come up with.   Fix it properly, make sure EVERYTHING is bonded to grond properly and install a GFCI.   The alternative is to do nothing then make explanations after somebody's kid gets killed.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 13 05:35PM -0700 >"You're already screwed. You looked at it. '   You got that right. People think we have some eye power like Superman or something.   Actually an isolation transformer would work, but there is nothing to indicate an insidious fault. All it takes is enough static electricity like during a thunderstorm striking nearby or something and it no longer isolates.   So it would be wise to use a GFCI, and then of course you don't need the isolation transformer.   Circuit breakers and GFCI outlets are designed to minimize the possibility of a no trip failure mode. No such thing in an isolation transformer. It could make it worse actually.   I would still recommend a low voltage alternative for the lighting. And a GFCI because when you are all wet you can get a shock from 12 volts. Probably not lethal directly, but could prevent you from getting your head out of the water or something.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 13 10:44PM -0700 > So it would be wise to use a GFCI, and then of course you don't need the isolation transformer.   > Circuit breakers and GFCI outlets are designed to minimize the possibility of a no trip failure mode. No such thing in an isolation transformer. It could make it worse actually.   > I would still recommend a low voltage alternative for the lighting. And a GFCI because when you are all wet you can get a shock from 12 volts. Probably not lethal directly, but could prevent you from getting your head out of the water or something.   GFCIs are far from failsafe. Well worth having but not entirely reliable by any means, and not failsafe.     NT

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Mar 14 05:29AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 7:41:09 PM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > You're already screwed. You looked at it.   Yup. At work we say, "you touch it, you own it."

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Mar 13 01:47PM -0500 gregz wrote:     > Thanks. These things make a pop and a little hole. Yes, that definitely sounds like a film resistor.   Jon

jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 13 05:42PM -0700 You might want to measure the capacitance of the first filters off the rectifiers. Tolerance on lytics allow for much higher than rated values and it can cause seriously higher (or longer duration) inrush current.   And 10 ohms seems a bit high. Are you sure that is the correct value ? Sometime there are mistakes on the print or parts list.

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Mar 14 03:55AM > up. Not sure if replacement resistors are suitable. Thinking now of upping > power from 2 watt types.   > Greg   Today I was measuring voltage(I) across each of 3 resistors by quickly flicking variac up. I expected a big spike, but not much to look at, or blow a resistor.   Greg

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Mar 14 07:44AM > and it can cause seriously higher (or longer duration) inrush current.   > And 10 ohms seems a bit high. Are you sure that is the correct value ? > Sometime there are mistakes on the print or parts list.   Pretty sure they are 10 ohms. I have already replaced a couple caps with slightly higher values. I don't have an easy way to measure high uf. The 3 main caps are 400 uf 250 volts. Two separate transformer windings.   Greg

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 14 04:06AM -0700 GS wrote:   ----------   > Today I was measuring voltage(I) across each of 3 resistors by quickly > flicking variac up.   ** No way you will ever create a significant inrush surge by doing that.       .... Phil

jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 13 08:00PM -0700 This is not a complicated transformer. About 19 volt secondary ot thereabouts, not even center tapped.   Maybe you can find a toroid somewhere which should have less flux leakage.   Or maybe a wall wart.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 14 02:06AM -0700 mako...@yahoo.com wrote:   ------------------------ > Try moving and re -orienting the power xformer relative to the CRT. > Often you can find a null point. > Otherwise you need mu metal shield or copper strap bucking turn.   ** Mu-metal is effective against *weak* magnetic fields, like the earth's field. It is used to house small signal transformers, cover scope tube necks and the like.   However, a mains transformer has a *strong field* at close range so a copper band right round the winding and core is effective. The band ends must over lap and be soldered.   http://richardschurmann.com.au/Other/Electronic_Burrow/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Transformer-21.jpg   Don't be tempted to feed the band round the winding inside the core - then it becomes a *shorted turn* and the whole thing will get damn hot.     .... Phil

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