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Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Apr 06 04:52PM +0100 On 05/04/18 19:31, Bob F wrote: > On 4/2/2018 4:34 PM, Mike_Duffy wrote: >> On Mon, 2 Apr 2018 13:09:48 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:   >>> when it comes to alkalines most brands are not far apart in capacity. .   >> Despite that, I plan to leave them loose in the case in the future.   > I just put a piece of paper between one battery and it's contact.   I've had cells leak when not installed, but kept in a drawer.   Remove 'em.   -- Adrian C

Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Apr 05 11:31AM -0700 On 4/2/2018 4:34 PM, Mike_Duffy wrote: > standby mode. They had endured a few winters (min -30C) and summers (max > +50C? interior) as well.   > Despite that, I plan to leave them loose in the case in the future.   I just put a piece of paper between one battery and it's contact.

blisca <blisca@tiscali.it>: Apr 10 03:07AM +0200 > This slip ring assembly has twelve conductors rated at 240 volts and 2 > amps. Twenty dollars US. > Eric   Thanks, i tried to simulate with a plastic spare part that i roughly filed to the eight of one of the slip rings in the datasheet,but it looks too thick,even removing the board with circular tracks,that could be substituted by the slip ring.   --- Questa email è stata esaminata alla ricerca di virus da AVG. http://www.avg.com

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 06 06:53PM +0100 On 06/04/2018 17:59, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > strip would only work for a mounting it on edge, which might be a > problem making contact with the Pogo contacts. Flat would be better, > but that would require machining the circular contacts.   Worth having a go on some fresh pcb and copper. I forgot to say previously, assuming joining old and new co[per, scarfe the joins together.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 06 01:33PM -0500 On 4/6/18 1:22 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > Which one? The pay phone or the AJ acoustic coupler modem? I'll > assume the coupler.   Well, I didn't really expect you to jump on it.   > Methinks I will need to regretfully decline your generous offer.   I understand, I'm working on "thinning the herd" here myself.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Apr 05 10:04PM -0400 On 04/05/2018 02:55 PM, Ragnusen Ultred wrote:   > Let me know if I left anything out that you need, but this seems to be the > process, where both the CORES and FRN people told me lots of people ask the > question (so why isn't it in the FCC FAQ?).   Nice job

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Apr 05 09:31PM -0400 On 04/05/2018 09:28 PM, bitrex wrote: > 2400 bps modem. Mom and Dad humored me but thought this whole "computers > talking to each other" thing was just a weird fad, like CB radio. Oh > well...   It took me all summer to save up for that little external modem and an extra one megabyte stick of RAM, that shit was expensive in 1992. Less than two years later I took home a 9600 bps modem sitting in my high school's trash bin.

John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Apr 09 01:00PM -0700 Run your browser. If it can not connect to Internet then you have your answer. Second way in case of fire wall. Type google,s IP address in the top part of the browser. All browsers support IP direct ping.if google does not ping then you are not connected to the Internet. I think google IP is 8 . 8 . 8 .8

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 09 01:26PM -0700 >"Make life easy for yourself and temporarily disable the wireless interface on the computah. Make sure that the ethernet interface is enabled. "     Just my two cents here - with what all it takes in Winblows to disable the wifi, it might be easier to just disable it temporarily at the router. If it is your router or is in your name you have the master password, so it is just a matter of typing an address in a browser and a few clicks later you have no wifi. It might pick up wifi from the neighbors but if you aren't or can't sign in, it should look for an internet connection and default to the ethernet.   That is unless they removed even more stuff from Windows, don't get me started on that, I still want 98SE back, it did more for me than anything since. Now it seems everything I want automatic is manual and a big hassle, and everything I don't want automatic is and it screws it up half the time and takes more trouble to set it how I want it than it would to just do it in the first place.   Enough rant, I think my method will work and it might be easier. less typing at least.   Other than that I know nothing. (Sgt. Schultz voice)

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 09 01:29PM -0700 >" All browsers support IP direct ping.if google does not ping then you are not connected to the Internet. I think google IP is 8 . 8 . 8 .8 "   Why would you need Google ? I think most of them are 192.0.0.0 or some such. There should be a paper manual that gives it.

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Apr 09 03:37PM -0700 Hi Miguel, nice to see you!   Many laptops replace the wifi by ethernet when you plug the cable, that depends on the cost metrics set to the interfaces.   But I have one that keeps the wifi on when plugged and it does not work very well with both connections active. The connection appears to work but experiences frequent errors, pages load slow and miss half the pictures and downloads stall or abort half-way. Not sure why but I learned to watch out to disable the wifi if it does not automatically.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 09 05:07PM -0700 >wifi. It might pick up wifi from the neighbors but if you >aren't or can't sign in, it should look for an internet >connection and default to the ethernet.   Far too complexicated. It's much easier to just place the router inside a metal trash can for the duration of the test. No cryptic incantations to type, no icons to click, and nothing else to change. No teach-n-type, no drag-n-drop, and no point-n-click. Just lift the lid and toss-n-dump.   >That is unless they removed even more stuff from Windows, don't >get me started on that, I still want 98SE back, it did more >for me than anything since.   If ancient Windoze 98SE was that good, Windoze 3.1 must have been even better. If that still has too much "stuff", then perhaps Windoze 1.0, which lacked a preemptive scheduler and overlapping windows would be even better. Never mind the future... things were always better in the past. If having four speeds in forward is too confusing, you only have to worry about one speed in reverse.   Not to worry (much). The past is not forgotten. You can run most of the old operating systems on your PC: <https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2014/01/7-classic-versions-of-windows-and-mac-os-you-can-run-in-a-browser/> Windows 1.0 and others in your browser for that nostalgia fix: <https://www.pcjs.org/> Too advanced for you? You can usually run your old DOS programs using DOSbox: <https://www.dosbox.com> <http://ykhwong.x-y.net> (what I run)   >hassle, and everything I don't want automatic is and it screws >it up half the time and takes more trouble to set it how I want >it than it would to just do it in the first place.   Designing a product that works the way everyone expects, does everything for everyone, and can be configured for everyone's personal idiosyncrasies, is unsurprisingly difficult.   >Enough rant, I think my method will work and it might be easier. >less typing at least.   Mine is better.   >Other than that I know nothing. (Sgt. Schultz voice)   That's a tolerable substitute for "Everything you know is wrong".     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 09 05:24PM -0700 >>then you are not connected to the Internet. I think google >>IP is 8 . 8 . 8 .8 "   >Why would you need Google ?   To answer all your questions. If Google can't find it, it doesn't exist.   >I think most of them are 192.0.0.0 or some such.   Google's DNS servers are at 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4. They respond to ICMP pings like this: C:\JeffL> ping 8.8.8.8 Pinging 8.8.8.8 with 32 bytes of data: Reply from 8.8.8.8: bytes=32 time=17ms TTL=57 Reply from 8.8.8.8: bytes=32 time=17ms TTL=57 Reply from 8.8.8.8: bytes=32 time=17ms TTL=57 Ping statistics for 8.8.8.8: Packets: Sent = 3, Received = 3, Lost = 0 (0% loss), Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds: Minimum = 17ms, Maximum = 17ms, Average = 17ms   >There should be a paper manual that gives it.   Nobody does paper manuals these days. What you get is a "Getting Started" or "Read Me First" paper, which provides simplified information needed to get yourself into trouble. There's also a "Wholesale Repudiation of Responsibility" document and warranty disclaimer, in a dozen languages, both helpfully provided by the company attorneys. If you want more detailed documentation, which usually covers the previous hardware version, it can be downloaded from the company web pile. Tech support is often provided for free, which is a good indicator of what it's worth.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 06 08:50PM -0700 >Is there a simple, free way to detect if a CAT5 cable has an active >internet.   No. Nothing is simple.   >The problem is that the two desktops running Windows 7 PRO do not show a >direct CAT5 connection, they just show a WiFi connection. Plugging in >the CAT5 cable does nothing.   That's correct. Plugging just a CAT5 cable, with nothing connected to the other end, will not produce any form of connection indication. The cable needs to be terminated by the LAN jacks on your AT&T FIOS router. The AT&T router needs to be turned on and operating. You should also see the lights on the ethernet jacks at both ends light up when the cable is plugged in.   Once you get lights on the connectors, dive into Windoze 7 and see if it recognizes the ethernet connection. Make life easy for yourself and temporarily disable the wireless interface on the computah. Make sure that the ethernet interface is enabled.   Start -> All Programs -> Accessories Right click on "Command Prompt" and select "Run as Administrator"   Get a list of interface numbers, run: WMIC NIC GET NAME, INDEX On my Win 7 machine, my ethernet interface = 7 and my wireless = 12. Yours will be different. No need to type the command in caps. Lower case will work.   To disable the ethernet interface, run: WMIC PATH WIN32_NETWORKADAPTER WHERE INDEX=7 CALL DISABLE   To enable the ethernet interface, run: WMIC PATH WIN32_NETWORKADAPTER WHERE INDEX=7 CALL ENABLE   You should be able to see the effects of enable/disable with: IPCONFIG /ALL | MORE   If everything appears to be working, try to ping your router. The IP address of the router will be: IPCONFIG /ALL | find /I "Default Gateway" Then run: PING IP_ADDRESS_OF_DEFAULT_GATEWAY If you get a return, your computah can talk to the gateway.   If that works, the rest will be determining why your AT&T FIOS gateway isn't talking to the internet.   >Either something killed the desktops ability to access the CAT5 >connections or the CAT5 cable is dead.   Or, the CAT5 cable is miswired or a crossover cable. Or, there's a box between the computers and the router that you neglected to mention. If it's a home made cable, I would be rather suspicious of the cable.   >It is an AT&T FIOS WiFi router.   Model number?   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Apr 10 04:42PM +1000 Here's a question that stumped me back in the old slide rule days:   A coaxial cable, having an inner diameter of 0.0254mm (0.001") and using an insulator with a dielectric constant of 2.56, is yo have a characteristic impedance of 2,000 Ohms. What must be the outer conductor diameter?   You guys can locate the appropriate method of calculation.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 09 10:37AM -0700 This problem had been happening intermittently. Now it's becoming more frequent and annoying. A sample is here: http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/Repair/HP-LJ4000-print-sample.jpg   Along with the vertical streak of light type that runs the entire length of the page near the left margin, that same streak has a rough texture to it when your run your finger over it. The rest of the paper feels normal. Any ideas what could be causing this? Would cleaning the laser scanner unit be the next logical step as explained here?http://www.fortwayneprinterrepair.com/wordpress/2011/11/28/light-print-hp-laserjet-4000-4050/   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 09 06:48PM +0100 On 09/04/2018 18:37, David Farber wrote: > the next logical step as explained > here?http://www.fortwayneprinterrepair.com/wordpress/2011/11/28/light-print-hp-laserjet-4000-4050/   > Thanks for your reply.   The roughness is probably iron filings, the so-called developer. Maybe dampness, maybe contamination, its not flowing correctly, plus loss of the material leading to gaps and consequent non moving of the toner in one section. Try removing the cartridge and shaking about , to redistribute the filings

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 09 11:00AM -0700 N_Cook wrote: > toner in one section. > Try removing the cartridge and shaking about , to redistribute the > filings   Just now, I gave the toner cartridge a good shaking. I'll let you know if things improve. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 09 11:20AM -0700 On Mon, 9 Apr 2018 10:37:13 -0700, "David Farber" >the next logical step as explained >here?http://www.fortwayneprinterrepair.com/wordpress/2011/11/28/light-print-hp-laserjet-4000-4050/   >Thanks for your reply.   The fuser roller or film has a layer of caked on and possibly burned in toner imbedded in it. It should be visible if you remove the fuser assembly. The printer looks like it's printing normally, but the toner is not sticking to the paper and is getting sprinkled all over the affected area. It also appears that you have the same problem on the other edge of the page. My guess is that you dumped some toner on the page from the toner cartridge.   What to do about it: 1. Remove everything you can from the printer. Paper tray, toner cart, fuser roller, etc. Find an air compressor that doesn't spray water and blow out the printer. My guess(tm) is that it's quite dirty in there. Try not to get the nozzle too close to anything fragile or you'll break things.   2. Inspect the fuser roller. It should be a consistent color across its length and not have any caked on toner at the ends. If it does, find a PLASTIC scraper and carefully scrape off the melted plastic toner. It will not stock to the drum and should fall off easily. Also, remove any melted toner stuck to the rubber rollers. You may need to turn the rollers by hand. Blow out any remaining debris.   3. If cleaning the fuser doesn't fix the problem, or the fuser roller looks burned at the ends, you can either replace just the fuser film (or sleeve), or get a replacement or exchange fuser assembly. <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+4000+fuser+assembly> <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+4000+fuser+sleeve>   4. If the amount of dumped toner is substantial, it's probably also imbedded in the rubber feed rollers. They can be cleaned, but with such an old printer, methinks a maintenance kit with separation pads would be best: <http://www.printerworks.com/Printers/MaintenanceKits/MK_4000MKA.html> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/151250586702> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/282891878887>   I some HP 4000/4050 parts in stock if you don't mind ancient inventory. Email for details.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 09 11:28AM -0700 On Mon, 09 Apr 2018 11:20:35 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   How to remove and replace the fuser assembly and install new rollers in an HP 4000/4050: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug4Mvydot_A> (6:25) <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENy7zbJnnbA> (3:56) Plenty other videos on the topic.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Apr 09 06:29PM -0700 On Monday, 9 April 2018 18:36:54 UTC+1, David Farber wrote: > the next logical step as explained > here?http://www.fortwayneprinterrepair.com/wordpress/2011/11/28/light-print-hp-laserjet-4000-4050/   > Thanks for your reply.   HP manuals will tell you what item is faulty based on the spacing of the repeated image. Each roller that can affect the image is a different size for this reason. Clean the relevant roller.     NT

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Apr 09 10:43PM -0700 On Monday, April 9, 2018 at 2:00:57 PM UTC-4, David Farber wrote: > > filings   > Just now, I gave the toner cartridge a good shaking. I'll let you know if > things improve.   Maybe it must have improved, but its still probably an indication that the cartridge is low and needs refilling/replacing.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Apr 10 02:40AM +0300 In sci.electronics.repair, on Sun, 8 Apr 2018 19:32:19 -0700, The Real   >>>> 2018 High'N'Dry USB port must be broken or is a mal-engineered piece of shit. >>>> FWIW, I use the USB ports in my Fords for charging phones and playing flashdrives.   >>> Read elsewhere USB ports can be too under-powered and will work for devices but not to charge them.   That must be it. At least I'm not the only one.   >>> You could use cigarette lighter adapter to charge things.   That's what I've been doing, but I'm sure a lot of people don't think to bring one of those things. (You have to have one that lights up, too. Last year I had one that never lit up and I wouldn't know when it wasn't plugged in well and wasn't charging anything.)   >> Yah, you're right. It just seems silly to do that in a vehicle.   >What, keeping your phone/tablet charged in a car seems silly? Recent   I think he means it's silly to have an underpowered usb port in a car, since you can't go to the next room and use the outlet there.   >3-day 1K-mile trip through Utah, and I ran my phone down taking photos.   I would have run my phone down too but I kept it charging. In addition I carry a real camera and I ran its battery down twice, but I had 2 spare batteries. (and could also charge it from the car without removing the battery) Plus for only about 5 dollars I got a car charger for the camera battery (when outside the camera) and I used that. So I really needed 2 cigarette sockets. The Kia had two. The Nissan Micra I started with this year had only one, but I brought a Y-connector for cigarettes. They have them with wires, even tri-connectors at hamfests, but this one was from Amazon and was one stiff plastic case.   Then they called and said I had to return the car that day, the next day, for sure the day after. They could have given me more warning. The new one is a High'n'dry. USB but no AUX. Fortunately I was smart enough to bring something, about the size and shape of a spool of thread, and it connects to the phone with bluetooth and to the radio with any FM frequency I choose. It works really well, starts by itself, and the only probably is that the girl inside it pronounces bluetooth as blazetooth. Maybe I can get the incredible shrinking man to go in there and teach her better diction.   > A car charger is essential.   Absolutely

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 09 10:06PM +0100 In article <MPG.3532b947c0277c849896a0@news.plus.net>, gravity@mjcoon.plus.com says... > some daylight along the bottom edge. Has anyone any guidance on either > mechanical or electronic aspects? Please?   > Mike.   I've prized the case off and got sight of the two boards; one power and one logic. Both well provided with component annotations, even for the jumpers, but of course I don't have a schematic. Boards are connected by a cable that, it says, supplies +5V and has one sense "ADJ" line and one "On/Off" line. Quite like a PC or no doubt lots of other appliances which have a low-power standby state. The power supply is marked that it supplies +5V, and "optionally" +24V, +12V and -8V. Measuring, the +5V started at ~3V and worked up to a rather wobbly 5V. Must stick a 'scope on the wobbles to see if I can spot a pattern. The "ADJ" line also varied ~2V / ~3V. But clicking the power switch made no difference to the +0.1V on the "On/Off" line.   Mike.

"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Apr 09 02:32PM -0700 Do you have an ESR meter? Whether or not, I would automatically suspect one or more bad electrolytic capacitors. If any have swollen cases, they are surely bad. Even if there is nothing visible, I would replace all of the electrolytics in the power supply.

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