- Folded phone line can mess up DSL. - 10 Updates
- Balance charge/BMS circuit problem starting handtools - 1 Update
- Balance charge/BMS circuit problem starting handtools - 1 Update
| "Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: May 12 11:22AM -0700 There is a minimum bend radius of at least 1" for CAT5. See *https://www.cablinginstall.com/articles/print/volume-6/issue-6/contents/standards/the-case-for-a-2-inch-cable-bend-radius.html <https://www.cablinginstall.com/articles/print/volume-6/issue-6/contents/standards/the-case-for-a-2-inch-cable-bend-radius.html>* Silver Satin cables are bad news. I don't know if that's the type of cable your using. The wires are all parallel and not twisted. My house has many phone locations, more than 8, and not home run. Nearly everything is wired with quad wire. This won;t support DSL filters, So, the best way to handle it was to install a DSL splitter at the NID. When I upgraded from WIFI based dial-up to DSL, I did things right. The NID to DSL port is only about 4 foot long. Then i found a 5' length of CAT4/CAT5 6P4S straight-thru cables that run to teh DSL modem. Now that distance is short. Then I ran the LAN port via power line Ethernet to the center of the basement where it should be. The AP (Wireless) should really be centrally located which it is. Later, that power line Ethernet connection was upgraded to wired. It also broke. The telco guy said that I had pristine DSL. During one of the service calls, the guy brought back a 12" piece of cable where the insulation was eaten. He also said he removed 1000' of length of cable. There is no way I could have this pristine DSL if it wasn't done right from the beginning. I do have some upgrade plans, but they have not been implemented yet.. One thing I must have is the ability to easily switch out a stand-alone modem to wired `Ethernet for the normal one in Bridge mode. I will eventually be able to do this with a push of a few buttons. Anytime trouble shooting needs to be done, I have to eliminate nearly everything at my end. The older modems have better trouble-shooting information. Then I started the "structured wiring" panels. They are mounted, but not connected. Some locations have low voltage plates, but unconnected too. Everything will be CAT6 RJ45's. If the jacks are telco, they will be reduced to 6 pin jacks using sleeves. I want to install a 24 port POE switch as well which I also have. |
| Jason <nobody@nowhere.com>: May 12 11:22PM -0400 In article <XnsA8E053B695DAtimothybilyahoocom@ 69.16.179.28>, onelydad58@gmail.com says... > Having the wires coiled like that very likely degraded the line electrical > characteristics to the point that you were getting a lot of lost/error > packets. Why? Twisted pairs are resistant to interference. |
| Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: May 12 09:34PM -0700 On 5/12/2018 8:22 PM, Jason wrote: >> characteristics to the point that you were getting a lot of lost/error >> packets. > Why? Twisted pairs are resistant to interference. Absolutely, the twisted repairs counteract interference, and each pair is twisted at a slightly different rate to reduce crosstalk between the pairs. Here's a simple summary. https://www.quora.com/How-does-twisting-the-cables-reduce-the-interference-between-the-wires |
| Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: May 13 02:52PM +1000 On 13/05/18 14:34, Mike S wrote: > is twisted at a slightly different rate to reduce crosstalk between the > pairs. Here's a simple summary. > https://www.quora.com/How-does-twisting-the-cables-reduce-the-interference-between-the-wires Yes, but coiling the cable means that pairs (with twist pitch X) interfere with other turns of themselves (still with pitch X), so coiling the cable can increase scattering. |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: May 13 12:54AM -0400 In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Fri, 11 May 2018 21:46:29 -0400, ABLE1 >Micky, >I am not going to answer your question as to why. Don't know. Yes, a hard question. (I didn't count packets like another post suggests) >However, with you alarm system connection you need to place >the alarm dialer as the first thing on your phone line from the NIC. This is a whole story in itself. >Also, depending on your specific use of DSL Filters the line >to the alarm dialer needs to be a DSL Filtered line. Otherwise >the communication can be compromised. Twisted pair cable is most desirable. My friend owns the burglar alarm company I'm dealing with and he's been very patient with me. As he is with almost everyone. He knew that before I met him, I installed my own wired alarm, without monitoring, 35 years ago and it worked every work day for 15 years until one day a little wisp of smoke was coming out of the keypad/controlboard at the front door. I had it grounded to a 6-foot copper rod nailed into the ground, so the ground was probably good, but stiill it burned out. Didn't do anything for 9 years until planning long trip. He gave me a new model control box and I almost got it installed. He even came over and worked on the last switch before he took me to the airport, but we didn't get it working. 10 years later, last year, I try again and fail for lack of time. But this year before another long trip, I start a month in advance and I finish on Thursday or Friday, plane leaves Sunday morning. Separately, the home phone stops working 20 years ago, a short in the wiring. I had put in several extensions but it has that stupid pinch connector in the basement and it's hard to disconnect them for testing. Or I was depressed, or a combination. I decide it's better if the phone line goes straight to the computer on the second floor, and from there to my new cordless phone base station, next to the computer. So I stop trying to get the basement to work and just run the wire up the front of the house, in the window, and to the next bedroom. (Later I drill a hole in the floor of the overhanging 2nd floor bedroom and run the wire through that.) Everything is good for years but now there is no phone line in the basement, just a cordless extension. THAT IS WHY I PUT IN THE Y-CONNECTOR, to try to have phone lines in the basement too. My friend explained that I should run 4 wires to the phone, so the alarm would interrupt all the other phone service (for two good reasons), but he didn't insist on it. And the two reasons don't apply to me too much. ( 1) I never set the alarm when I'm home anyhow, and 2) I could be wrong but in my lower middle class n'hood, I don't think the burglars are smart enough to start dialing before the alarm dials. (For the long trip, I hid the cordless phone in the kitchen, the only one on the first floor.)) When I coudlnt' get the phone line in the basement to work at all, I ran heavy duty speaker wire up two flights of stairs to the phone line by my computer. I sort of hated that, but I'm getting used to it. It works for now. My friend thought the 35 year old switches might cause false alarms, but I was gone for 2 months and no false alarms. However on the plane back, it dawned on me that I couldn't remember the code and I coudlnt' remember the password. After 10 minutes I remembered the password and after 30 I remembered the code, but got it wrong! I thought it was 1357 and it was really 3579. So when I came in the house, after 30 seconds the sirens went off. I ran to the basement to take out the fuses leading to the sirens, and when I got upstairs the monitoring company called, and I did have the right password. They said there'd been no prior, false alarms, but it did work that day. I still couldn't disarm the alarm and I was sort of trapped in the house for a day, but I found an email I'd sent a friend with the code in it. I'm probably going to get FIOS and the installer will probably insist on connecting the wiring to the basement, and if he doesn't I will insist on it. >Good luck. Thanks. I'll need it. |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: May 13 12:56AM -0400 In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Sat, 12 May 2018 12:50:56 +1000, Lucifer >longer than needed and the excess was coiled up. >At 1 gigabit packet loss was around 50%. >I replaced it with a much shorter cable and no packet loss. Very interesting. Besides acting as an antenna and picking up interference, I was thinking something like your or my coiled wiring, this time or the previous time, could act as a choke. But I'm just guessing. |
| Tim <onelydad58@gmail.com>: May 13 07:09AM Jason <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in >> electrical characteristics to the point that you were getting a lot >> of lost/error packets. > Why? Twisted pairs are resistant to interference. Yes, twisted pairs are more resistant to interference, but the conductor diameters, wire spacing, and insulation for CAT5 and CAT6 cables are very carefully selected for among other things interconductor capacitance. For the same reason that puting a CAT3 connector on a CAT5 cable limits the cable to CAT3 specifications, having the cable being pinched at any spot will change the electrical characteristics of the cable in a negative manner, with a corresponding drop in performance. |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: May 13 03:27AM -0400 In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Fri, 11 May 2018 21:41:40 -0400, Jason >> I go to the NIC and put a Y connector in it, >Are there DSL isolators in line where they should be? I >couldn't tell from your post. No. And it worked fine after I took out the extra cable. That's the point. |
| Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: May 13 02:40AM -0700 On 5/12/2018 9:52 PM, Clifford Heath wrote: > Yes, but coiling the cable means that pairs (with twist pitch X) > interfere with other turns of themselves (still with pitch X), > so coiling the cable can increase scattering. Agreed, I used to install DSL and I never did that. |
| Tim <onelydad58@gmail.com>: May 13 01:35PM >> interfere with other turns of themselves (still with pitch X), >> so coiling the cable can increase scattering. > Agreed, I used to install DSL and I never did that. Have you never heard of insulation creep? Under pressure, the plastic used for modern insulation will slowly flow in such a way as to relieve that pressure. This can result in direct shorts, changes in spatial relationships between wires, and other problems. Any of the above will change the capacitance and inductance of the conductors involved, in a negative way. Changes in capacitance can cause the digital signals to round off too rapidly, to the point thay are no longer detectable as signal pulses at the far end, while changes in inductance can cause mismatches in impedence that can cause unwanted reflections of the digital signal, which can also degrade the digital pulses. That is why on of the first things I was taught about dressing cables was to never pull cable ties too taut, as that is a prime way of causing both problems, either in tying up loops or in dressing cable runs. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: May 13 11:02AM +0100 On 13/05/2018 08:53, Charlie+ wrote: > direct switch. > Works fine but no discharge management of course so have to guess with > the motor slowing appreciably! C+ How about trying one of those NTC thermistors for SMPS or torroidal transformers (find a scrapper), to avoid blowing fuses at start-up. Much lower voltage in your case , so may have to parallel a few |
| Charlie+ <charlie@xxx.net>: May 13 08:53AM +0100 I replaced an old 12v gel battery (2AH) in a hand vacuum unit - with a set of 4 Li 18650 cells and a Chinese Battery Management circuit board: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1S-2S-3S-4S-5S-6S-PCB-BMS-Protection-Board-For-18650-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery-Cell/252994763157?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=552038242317&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 (4S 30A version with balance). The balance charge part of the board works a treat but if I try to run the motor through the discharge part of the circuit the motor spins for about 1/5 second kick then cuts. My guess is that the motor draws a monster current on startup (in normal running it draws at about 12v 1.5A) and the BMS sees it as a short circuit or a big spike and cuts out - but thats only my guess, anyone know what is going on here really and how to correct the problem? I cant find anything useful on this problem on search. I tried connecting a 350uf cap across the battery but this didnt sort it.. There is no circuit diagram available for these boards, at the moment I have connected it all as balanced charge and the motor running on a direct switch. Works fine but no discharge management of course so have to guess with the motor slowing appreciably! C+ |
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