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Sofa Slug <sofaslug@invalid.invalid>: May 08 09:24AM -0700 On 5/3/2018 9:32 AM, root wrote: > 69044470 koce-pbs-kids 50.5 > 69045541 kcop-buzzr 13.2 > 69050084 kcet-hdtv 28.1   FYI, your list is missing:   13.8 Light TV 28.2 KCETLink 28.3 NHK World 30.1 ION TV 32.3 MeTV 34.3 Bounce 39.1 Escape 42.10 Retro TV 46.2 GetTV 46.4 Grit 46.5 Quest 50.1 PBS SoCal 1 50.2 PBS SoCal 2 50.4 PBS SoCal World   BTW, 8.3/8.6 KFLA is MIA - just bars and tone for many months now.   There is a forum for LA DTV channels here: <http://www.avsforum.com/forum/45-local-hdtv-info-reception/191672-los-angeles-ca-ota-341.html>

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 07 11:20AM -0700 On Monday, 7 May 2018 11:41:41 UTC+1, J.B. Wood wrote:   > Hello, and I have to take issue with your "perform poorly" remark. Glow > switches (aka "starters") have been around for decades and are very > reliable. And if they're reliable and work, how do they poorly perform?   they greatly reduce the life expectanc of tubes and are unpleasant on the eye during starting.   > no more than a couple of start repeats are required and that's why the > lamp pulses. In any event glow switches are quite reliable and cheap to > replace when required. Sincerely,   Not so. For a project I tested the strike rate using switch contacts instead of a glow starter. It was 100%. The reason glowstarters extinguish the lamp is purely because they're horrible glowstarters - excluding the few cases where the lamp extinguishes itself due to it failing.     NT

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: May 07 11:33AM -0700 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Aspects-32W-Equivalent-Warm-White-T9-Dimmable-LED-Retrofit-Kit-RFKIT32/207056638?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|google|D27L+Light+Bulbs&mid=sR70QFjjy|dc_mtid_89037lm25188_pcrid_227841299674_pkw__pmt__product_207056638_slid_   https://industriallightingfixtures.org/t9-led-circline-replacement.html   https://www.amazon.com/Circline-Circular-Replacement-Fluorescent-Bypassed/dp/B075TCP7RP/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1525717681&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A6105692011   Why? Waste? Your? Time?   what is the fascination here with moribund or already dead horses? By shifting to 'modern technology' - at least in this case - not only is one reducing landfill (however many mercury-containing lamps) but reducing energy used and increasing reliability. A cheap thing that one uses 10 of is not so cheap as that bit-more-expensive-thing that one uses 1 of.   The fixture in question is not a valuable museum-piece, but a tool. And the idea is to continue using it as a tool, rather than tossing it into landfill.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: May 07 08:33PM +0100 <tabbypurr@gmail.com> wrote in message news:6639bc26-225b-4eb7-82b1-dbb3f1c1fb9f@googlegroups.com... >> envelope glow switch from its plastic or metal can. You'd also have to >> determine the current rating of the required glow switch. Sincerely,   > A ballast is inevitably present.   Nope - some cooker hood lamps just have a big resistor.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: May 07 08:40PM +0100 "J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:pchljp$fes$1@gioia.aioe.org... > switch with just an on/off one. You might have to extract the glass > envelope glow switch from its plastic or metal can. You'd also have to > determine the current rating of the required glow switch. Sincerely,   You can get electronic starters, I was quite impressed. The muppet electrician that fitted a "D" luminair in the bog, fitted the wrong ballast - it took ages to strike from the get go and after a week, it was turn the bog light on, go for a cuppa and wait for the light to come on. The electronic starter still took a while, but it just blinked on instead of 10 mins flickering. An electronic ballast was about the same price as a tube on eBay and lasted a while - but I bodged it with a bunch of candle style LED bulbs rather than go through all that crap again. LED GU10 lamps are also an option - and much better chance of getting cool white.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 07 12:59PM -0700 On Monday, 7 May 2018 20:33:05 UTC+1, Ian Field wrote: > >> determine the current rating of the required glow switch. Sincerely,   > > A ballast is inevitably present.   > Nope - some cooker hood lamps just have a big resistor.   ...acting as a ballast. Let us know if you have something useful to add.

"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com>: May 08 02:26AM -0400 > The fixture in question is not a valuable museum-piece, but a tool. > And the idea is to continue using it as a tool, rather than tossing > it into landfill.   Yeah, I'll get one of those. But what will I do with the new tube I bought A*WEEK before the damn switch went? FRAK!   Of course the new tube was only $10.

"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: May 08 07:09AM -0400 >> replace when required. Sincerely,   > Not so. For a project I tested the strike rate using switch contacts instead of a glow starter. It was 100%. The reason glowstarters extinguish the lamp is purely because they're horrible glowstarters - excluding the few cases where the lamp extinguishes itself due to it failing.   > NT   Hello, and I fail to understand what you mean by "horrible". That glow starters are old technology is understood but they're still cheap, reliable, and in most cases easy to replace. That isn't to imply that I would use them in a modern design with other choices such as electronic ballasts/starters and cold-cathode lamps being available. And of course we can go with LEDs as another poster mentioned.   One thing I didn't mention describing the starting process is filament-heated cathode temperature at the instant the glow switch opens. I would presume the lamp requires higher boost voltages between the cathodes to establish the gas discharge path when the cathodes are cooler. That makes startup more dependent on where on the AC cycle current through ballast coil is interrupted by the starter. Since the glow switch is a relatively fast-acting device the combination of cathode temperature and ballast-provided voltage boost frequently isn't sufficient to establish steady-state lamp operation during the initial start attempt. Replacing the glow starter with a momentary-contact pushbutton most likely enables the filaments to heat the cathodes to an optimum temperature for starting and thus more likely start the lamp first time. Sincerely,   -- J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: May 07 08:31PM +0100 "John-Del" <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote in message news:679498a9-5ea2-4403-aa7f-ddd465860ff1@googlegroups.com...   >> Good Lord, what fucking rock have you been asleep under for the past >> fifty year?   > Are you saying the advice to use selenium rectifiers "stinks"?     Rotten fish mostly.................

etpm@whidbey.com: May 07 10:44AM -0700 On Mon, 7 May 2018 06:51:25 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"   >That for the price will probably be competitive with your home-brew at the end of the process.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA This engraving spindle is for use in a CNC mill. Ideally it will sit in the tool carousel along with the other 20 tools and be connected to power and cooling automatically. But I will probably need to manually plug in power and cooling connectors. I use different rotary tools for engraving and micromilling. The smallest engraving tools I use are .015" diameter at the tip. The smallest milling cutters I use are similar in size. The graver you linked to is a hammer type and is not the type of engraving I do. There are several ways to engrave and what my customers want requires rotary tools. I am really just doing shallow machining when I engrave, not any kind of artistic stuff. Letters, lines, numbers, that kind of thing. The top spindle speed of my main spindle is only 7,500 RPM. I do have a sub spindle that spins at 24,000 RPM but it is too big to fit in a CAT 40 tool and so is instead mounted in a clamp which in turn clamps around the main spindle housing. A kluge. I have some hobby BLDC motors but the ones with enough power for high feed rate cutting max out at 24,000 RPM and I really want 40,000 RPM. I have experimented with the motors spinning a tool at 24,000 RPM and surprisingly the things were pretty well balanced. But as I said they can't be fed along very fast. Eric

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: May 07 10:48AM -0700 That makes a lot more sense in terms of your request.   https://www.maxonmotorusa.com/maxon/view/content/ec-motors     Gets you up to 120,000 rpm. I expect that they will be pretty well balanced as well.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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