Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 3 topics

teknoskillz@gmail.com: Jul 22 08:42AM -0700

So I undertook the task of opening it up and unsoldering the old battery.
Its out, however
during the moving around of the chassis, the little square piece which is I
guess the camera
assy popped off -
 
http://www.mediafire.com/view/w0y5fz0ixbg3x66/HPIM0482.JPG/file
 
Tried pressing it back on but it dont seem to stay in place, so I am
thinking using a tiny dab of contact cement
in the corners and maybe a clothespin long enough to clamp it overnight.
 
Also the piece that popped off seems to have a little bit of discoloring on
the tiny lense, which probably would come off with some
windex on a q tip. Was just wondering if that is ok or would alcohol be
harmful to the lense?
 
I took a peek at that tiny lense on the end of the cable, and its got
several tiny smd caps mounted around the perimiter. At first they
looked like some kind of edge guide...had to go to extreme mag to even see
the detail.
eriknehamkin982@gmail.com: Jul 21 07:26PM -0700

I have a dvm, an analog meter, soldering iron etc.. I also have a app on my phone that can act as a signal generator, but I dont have a scope. I pretty much use it to run my ipod, or other music device through the aux, and it had been working great and sounded good until recently.
 
I appreciate your help by the way. Thank you.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jul 21 08:04PM -0700

Nine times out of ten "garbled" sound in one channel when the amp doesn't fry or go into protection is because of an open driver transistor. Well maybe 8 out of 10 times.
 
Without a scope, the only way to test this is either static ally, which means the ohmmeter and the device not powered, or to measure the voltages in the amps while it is running, on a driver the voltage should only be a half volt or so, measuring from base to emitter. It may have forward bias (supposedly) on the base but the emitter is not there, it is more negative or positive than it should be. Except for certain circuits, like class C RF amps n shit, the emitter and base should always be within about a volt. Maybe 2, but no more. The exceptions are high speed switching transistors and that ain't what you got.
 
You can still get 2SC3117 and 2SC1249 at Digikey cheap and they will handle almost any amp up to about 400 WPC.
 
Sometimes it is the outputs, read the voltages on the bases and emitters of all of them in the output stages. Even with no signal, on3 of them is going to have more than normal voltage from B to E. Compare it with the other channel.
 
Anyway, try a few things and get back to us.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jul 21 04:17PM -0700

On Friday, July 20, 2018 at 9:10:32 PM UTC-5, John-Del wrote:
> Fisher RS-717 with water damage. Guy wants it fixed for nostalgia's sake...
 
> John
 
Nobody has it on all the freebie sites I know. Perhaps SAMS ?
 
Or would you rather elaborate on the problem and maybe do it without the print ?
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