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amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Aug 22 07:14PM -0500 On 8/16/2018 12:03 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > <https://mwswire.com/magnet-wire/round-copper-magnet-wire/> > <https://mwswire.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/mws-insulation-guide-from-web.pdf>   > gotta run...   I don't know. But I have stripped a lot of magnet wire using a tool I bought 36 years ago when I worked at a motor rewind shop. Here's a link to the description. > http://theradioboard.com/rb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3020&p=27304&hilit=qmavam#p27304 The big down side is, the company now wants $49 for the hand tool. Even if I had paid that price, amortized over 36 years it's not so bad. It still works very well even though it has 36 years of use on it. It's at the bottom of this page, > http://www.martindaleco.com/HTML/ElectriciansHandTools/WireStripper-Manual.htm   Note, the WRST72 above it is only $10. Mikek

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Aug 16 05:08PM ><https://mwswire.com/magnet-wire/round-copper-magnet-wire/> ><https://mwswire.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/mws-insulation-guide-from-web.pdf>   > gotta run...         If OP is willing to have a solder pot running he can crank that up to 400 and just dip the ends of the wires in the pot. That would tin the ends and make them ready for soldering to the board.

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Aug 16 02:21PM -0700 >> insulation. Does not look that type of wire is around.   > I fully expect it is. I have enough for a lifetime.   > NT   I've used both types.   The stuff that looks like magnet wire has to be tinned before you use it. My experience was that it took longer to get the insulation to melt than it would have taken to strip wire-wrap wire.   The meltable plastic coating has the advantage that you don't have to measure it, You stick the end on the pad and solder it. Then you set the appropriate position on the second pad and solder that. You cut it off and go on to the next one...or for wire connected to multiple places, you just keep laying it down and tacking it to the new location.   It's demonstrably faster for repeated mods to lots of units. But you can't easily/visually verify that you have a reliable connection. There's melted plastic in/around the joint.   30 years ago, parts and traces were a lot bigger. Today, finding a place to solder anything is a challenge.

Johann Klammer <klammerj@NOSPAM.a1.net>: Aug 16 08:27AM +0200 On 08/16/2018 08:23 AM, Johann Klammer wrote: > Do you maybe have some more trade names or brands I could use as search terms? > Soderon did not work on farnell.. > and Essex gives only connectors n stuff.   Maybe the name of the coating would work. the hi temp crap is called polyurethane here I believe, and strangely enough the farnell people have the notice solderable on all of that magnet wire when it really isn't.

Mikko OH2HVJ <mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi>: Aug 16 09:22AM +0300 > insulation ? There was some on ebay I bought that did not seem to work. > After checking it out, it seems that it needs to be heated to almost 400 > deg C and when I tried that, it did not do all that well.   Google for 'solderable magnet wire'. Amazon has some, Adafruit has this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3522   I'm using 350°C iron and pushing the cut wire end to the solder blob nicely removes 1-2mm of coating.( Don't breath the smoke.)   -- mikko OH2HVJ

Johann Klammer <klammerj@NOSPAM.a1.net>: Aug 16 08:23AM +0200 > there are 2 types of enamelled copper wire, some is solderable without stripping first. > Where? There are lots of electronic part suppliers. You didn't say what country.   > NT   Hello. I had been looking for that stuff too, once. Unsuccessfully. Do you maybe have some more trade names or brands I could use as search terms? Soderon did not work on farnell.. and Essex gives only connectors n stuff.

Johann Klammer <klammerj@NOSPAM.a1.net>: Aug 16 09:13AM +0200 On 08/16/2018 09:00 AM, whit3rd wrote: >> Soderon did not work on farnell.. >> and Essex gives only connectors n stuff.   > Belden called their version Beldsol.   That yielded a result. Funny. This is from their datasheet: > The wire requires a soldering iron temperature of 400°C+ to remove the enamel. > (Weller bit temperature code 8 or 9 or temperature-controlled iron)   <http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2331656.pdf?_ga=2.14158068.230652389.1534400363-531033438.1534400363>

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Aug 15 08:10PM -0700 On 8/15/2018 6:46 PM, philo wrote: > just laughed. > He said, "Battery chargers, heck we have planes out there flying with > green wires." Soldering green wires is common. The problem with the melting insulation is that you can't tell whether you got a reliable connection among all the melted plastic.   The monitors in question used stranded wires with melted insulation. You solder the joint, then snip the wire. The strands stuck out in all directions, sometimes overlaying other parts or traces. "Hoping for the best" was not attractive to the QC manager.

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Aug 15 06:18PM -0700 On 8/15/2018 4:57 PM, Dave M wrote: > https://www.amazon.com/Magnet-Enameled-Copper-Winding-Solderable/dp/B01EMHDXIM   > Cheers, > Dave M   Funny story... 25 years ago, I contracted some LCD monitors from Japan as part of a product offering. They had been modded using that type of wire. The QC manager took one look and insisted that they all be rejected. YMMV

philo <philo@privacy.net>: Aug 15 08:46PM -0500 On 08/15/2018 08:18 PM, mike wrote: > a product offering.  They had been modded using that type of wire. > The QC manager took one look and insisted that they all be rejected. > YMMV       As far as those mod wires often used on circuit boards, the company I worked for hired some engineers who worked in the aerospace industry.     We had them manufacture controls for industrial battery chargers and the boards had to me modded by adding a few jumpers.     One customer did not like the looks of them though of course all was OK electrically. Anyway, when I mentioned that to one of the engineers he just laughed. He said, "Battery chargers, heck we have planes out there flying with green wires."

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Aug 22 12:04PM -0700 On Monday, August 20, 2018 at 4:14:04 AM UTC-4, Mike Coon wrote: > bruce2bowser@gmail.com says...   > > As many apps as possible should all be off when charging, too. That way, the phone is using less energy while charging.   > Please explain why that would make any difference...   I read it, here:   -- https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5837372   (a helpdesk person at Apple or Samsung can explain further)

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Aug 22 12:12PM -0700 > I read it, here:   > -- https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5837372   > (a helpdesk person at Apple or Samsung can explain further)   This explains better: -- https://visihow.com/How_to_close_background_applications_on_ios_7_iphone_5s,_5c,5,4s,4_and_ios_6

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Aug 22 12:14PM -0700 This explains better:   -- https://visihow.com/How_to_close_background_applications_on_ios_7_iphone_5s,_5c,5,4s,4_and_ios_6   "How to close open apps on phone so phone will keep a charge longer? I am unable to drag icons to the top of screen   You do not need to drag icons. By tapping icons, you can only launch them. By tapping and holding icons, you can move them around, group them, or uninstall them. Double-press the home button to initiate the closing process. Then, just tap on the application that you want to close and slide it upwards.   For a longer battery overall lifespan, do not discharge it fully and do not keep it charged at 100 % for too long. For a longer battery life between charges   decrease the volume of the phone; closing applications may not affect the battery life, actually: to really close applications, you need to go to "Settings" > "General" > "Background App Refresh" and disable as many applications as you can. This will be the true way to "close applications"; in "Settings" > "Notifications", disable notifications for as many applications as possible; in "Settings" > "Wallpaper & Brightness", turn off the "Auto-Brightness" option; in "Settings" > "General" > "Spotlight Search", disable "Siri Suggestions" and all of the "SEARCH RESULTS" options; in "Settings" > "Cellular", scroll down to the bottom. Disable "WiFi Assist". I have a new iPhone 5S, and I need to close all of the applications. My battery won't go beyond 1/4th of a charge? I need to close my apps so I can charge my battery to a full charge,"

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Aug 15 12:10AM -0700 On 8/14/2018 9:56 PM, John Robertson wrote: > kitchen counter and has been running for five or so years with no > battery issues.   > John :-#)#   Thanks, All my swollen batteries are in Android and Windows phones. Maybe Apple got it right.

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Aug 15 12:59PM -0700 On 8/15/2018 11:35 AM, Mike Coon wrote: > The replacement battery is OK so far, but I don't leave it on charge for > long periods...   > Mike.   There are a couple of effects. Lithium batteries don't like maximum voltage, on charge or not. Degradation increases rapidly as voltage increases. If you charge then disconnect, the percentage of time the battery stays at that maximum voltage is SIGNIFICANTLY less.   Vendors maximize the claimed run time of their phones. They push it to the limit, and maybe past. Staying on charge is bad news.   Some devices charge to max, but internally disconnect until the battery falls below some level. Some devices allow you to set the maximum charge level. That lets them advertise big life numbers and blame you if your battery fails.   The stuff I buy at garage sales is old technology. That's why I think I need to take some action inside the charge system. Series diodes are the only thing I can think to do without a lot of proprietary info about how the charge controller works.   The pinout page shows several ways to disable charging. I've interpreted this to mean that it also forces it to run on internal battery. Some investigation might be in order to see if that's the case. Maybe a FET in series with the charge line that gets turned off when inserted into the speaker dock.   I'd merely have to charge the battery on a different charger occasionally to keep the battery from going completely flat.   I've got 2 ipods and 4 iphones 3, 3GS, 4, 4GS...and maybe a dozen speaker docks. Likely that they all charge differently. Making something compatible across the range will be a challenge.   I keep coming back to a pair of diodes to drop the max charge voltage and wondering whether the charge controller will tolerate that dead band in the curve.

"petrus bitbyter" <petrus.bitbyter@hotmail.com>: Aug 15 09:36PM +0200 | | | "Ying Yang" schreef in bericht news:71fbb174-4d09-441e-9f6b-8e9947d8b825@googlegroups.com... | | hi | i have a panasonic 60w dc motor for air conditioner that i wanna use this motor for an AC system so i need redraw wiring of DC motor for using it on AC system so i need help cuz i dont know | how must done this job?   You did not provide enough information to get a really usefull answer. One of the most important things is the voltage required. It makes a hugh difference whether 12Vdc, 24Vdc, 120Vdc, 220Vdc or some other value is required. Another thing is the type of the motor involved. The type should be on a plate on the motor. Best of all would be the datasheet of the motor.   petrua bitbyter

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 22 12:54PM -0400 I have a desk microphone without the cable. I need to put on a cable that is just a center conductor and shield. It will be about 3 to 4 feet long.   This is a crystal mic going into a tube amplifier. As this is high impedance, is there a special mic cable ,or can I just use some rg58 or rg 8x cable without degrading the audio. It is only for communications quality speech.   I know all about RF type cable, but have not ventured into the audio.

Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Aug 22 01:19PM -0400 In article <MPG.35e75f623661934989840@news.east.earthlink.net>, > rg 8x cable without degrading the audio. It is only for communications > quality speech.   > I know all about RF type cable, but have not ventured into the audio.   Ralph-   I think RG cable is more than adequate for audio use, maybe "too good"! It may not be as flexible as you would like.   Fred

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Aug 22 11:30AM -0700 In article <fmmck-3E9C74.13191422082018@46.sub-75-242-165.myvzw.com>,   >Ralph-   >I think RG cable is more than adequate for audio use, maybe "too good"! >It may not be as flexible as you would like.   For that short a distance, and for speech-quality audio, I agree on both points. The flexibility of the cable may be an issue, although since it's a desk microphone that may be less of a problem.   If you do want to optimize... professional microphone cables are often designed with low capacitance per foot (to minimize the degree to which the cable's shunt capacitance loads down the mic element and affects the frequency response) and low amounts of triboelectric effect (so that bending the cable doesn't generated voltages inside the insulation which are then transferred to the conductors - this can cause crackling or other noises in the audio).   Most of the big cable manufacturers (Belden, Mogami, etc.) make cable of this sort. Markertek sells it, but only in bulk quantities :-(   Ralph, if you want to experiment... I have a whole bunch of fancy mil-spec cable sitting in my garage from a previous project / sideline business... it's stuff like Belden 83318E. I've got some fairly thin one- and two-conductor (plus braided shield) that might work for you... it's not as flexible as rubber- or PFC-insulated of the same diameter but is definitely more flexible than RG-58 or RG-8x. I've used it for line-level audio wiring in my stereo setup, among other things. Email me directly, send me a mailing address, and I'll post you a long enough piece to try with your microphone.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 22 05:00PM -0400 In article <kmm05f-hdp.ln1@coop.radagast.org>, dplatt@coop.radagast.org says... > used it for line-level audio wiring in my stereo setup, among other > things. Email me directly, send me a mailing address, and I'll post > you a long enough piece to try with your microphone.   Thanks for the offer on the cable. I don't think it is worth it to do any experimenting with. This is for a D104 Crystal mic that is going into an old Johnson Viking 2 transmitter . The audio quality on them is not all that great from what I understand. That transmitter is set up for just a center conductor and outer shield. An audio plug similar to a pl259 with the center pin just flush with the connector. Forgot what they are called.   I did not think it would matter in this case what kind of cable I used if it did not pick up AC hum or RF as it is only going to be 3 or 4 feet long. Just wanted to run it by some that might have had tried it and ran into an unknown problem.   I have several kinds of small rg coax around. Where I am going to use the mic , the wire does not have to be very flexable.     Now If I really wanted the best, I would get one of those $ 100 AC cords that is oxygen free, some Monster mic cable and suck out all the solder connections in the rig and re do it with some of the Wester Electric solder..

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 22 04:06PM -0700 On Wednesday, 22 August 2018 22:00:15 UTC+1, Ralph Mowery wrote: > ran into an unknown problem.   > I have several kinds of small rg coax around. Where I am going to use > the mic , the wire does not have to be very flexable.   Just use a cable with a good screen density, not some old tv cable with just a vague notional outer screening copper.   > that is oxygen free, some Monster mic cable and suck out all the solder > connections in the rig and re do it with some of the Wester Electric > solder..   can't imagine why that would be best.   Crystal is never going to get you decent sound anyway.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Aug 22 06:24PM -0500 On 8/22/18 4:00 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > This is for a D104 Crystal mic that is going nto an old Johnson > Viking 2 transmitter . The audio quality on them is not all that > great from what I understand.   Only if you've been listening to the "broadcast quality" AM guys. The D104 tends to accentuate the highs.   > That transmitter is set up for just a center conductor and outer > shield. An audio plug similar to a pl259 with the center pin > just flush with the connector. Forgot what they are called.   They are called an Amphenol connectors. By the way, if you want to do the PTT upgrade, that Mic connector is mounted in a 3/8" hole, so a standard 1/4" TRS jack will fit.   > I did not think it would matter in this case what kind of cable > I used.   Actually, it makes a lot of difference. The audio input on the Viking is a vacuum tube grid. And the D104 is a high impedance. As such you want to use low capacitance cable. RG-- is not low capacitance.         -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 22 10:59PM -0400 In article <5OOdncqB1u8nbeDGnZ2dnUU7-Y3NnZ2d@giganews.com>, jdangus@att.net says...   > They are called an Amphenol connectors. > By the way, if you want to do the PTT upgrade, that Mic connector > is mounted in a 3/8" hole, so a standard 1/4" TRS jack will fit.   I wanted ot call it an Amphenol connector, but that is also a company that makes many types of connectors. Maybe that is just a common name for that type of connector ?   I sort of thought about doing the PTT upgrade as I have the factory mod information for that, but think for now I will stay with the plate toggle switch as the D104 I have is just a stand and not the one with the 'grip to talk' switch.I may make the mod if I get a PTT mic and put the Viking on the bench. I just picked the Viking up about a month ago and put together a station with a Hammurlaud 140 receiver to make it a station of about the time I was born.   ku4pt

"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Aug 22 02:36PM -0700 Once you remove the solder "ADD MORE". Yep, add more. Suck that out.   It has the tendency to heat other areas.   You can also add a solder removal alloy form Chip-Quik.   You can break off the tabs sometimes. You can cut the can sometimes. I'd use these methods at last resort.   Solder with a low temperature allow after removing most of the solder and suck out is my best suggestion.

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Aug 22 07:08PM -0400 On 08/22/2018 06:12 AM, Cursitor Doom wrote: > 44 years ago! What was more surprising was that only 2 out of 6 electros > in the PSU section showed abnormal readings (the remaining faulty one has > gone leaky).   I have a Keithley 410 Micro-Microammeter from about 1960 that has all its original electros and still works fine. Of course it uses an electrometer tube, so it takes a good couple of hours' warm-up to settle down on the 100-fA FS range, but it eventually does.   It has way more soul than my 610C(*), but really isn't nearly as good a meter. (Don't anybody tell it, though--it has an honoured place on my bench shelf.)   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   (*) "Now Nortons and Indians and Greeveses won't do...They don't have a soul like a Vincent '52." -- Richard Thompson   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com

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