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"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net>: Oct 10 06:44PM -0400 I ran the clean cycle on our Cuisinart DCC-2650 coffee maker, but then when I went to rinse it with clean water it didn't heat up.   I removed the screws from the metal bottom plate, but it seems that that was a mistake, because when I removed the deep-set screws in the plastic part of the bottom and removed the whole bottom everything was disconnected from that metal plate, and I can't see exactly where everything fitted.   More precisely: there is a Q8025J6 Triac hanging by its wire leads, which are held against the edge of a clear plastic part, and an aluminum plate (heat sink) but I can't figure out exactly how they go back together.   And IAC if the Triac is the problem, so far I've only found companies selling them in minimum lots of 50.   Perce

"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net>: Oct 11 09:34AM -0400 On 10/10/18 6:44 PM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:   > plate (heat sink) but I can't figure out exactly how they go back together.   > And IAC if the Triac is the problem, so far I've only found companies > selling them in minimum lots of 50.   I figured out how everything goes back together, but of course it still didn't work, so I did a little probing with the bottom (plastic plus metal plus everything attached to the metal again) off and the thing plugged in. I measured 120V across the outer shells of what I assume are thermal fuses with their leads spot-welded to the terminals of the heating element, but nothing across the terminals of the element. One of those thermal fuses is bad, but with no way of spot-welding a replacement in place is there any practical way of fixing it?   Perce

ggherold@gmail.com: Oct 11 06:58AM -0700 On Thursday, October 11, 2018 at 9:35:28 AM UTC-4, Percival P. Cassidy wrote: > those thermal fuses is bad, but with no way of spot-welding a > replacement in place is there any practical way of fixing it?   > Perce   I had a coffee maker with failed thermal fuse. There were two in series and I just jumpered the bad one. This had spade type connectors... maybe post pic and someone will have an idea.   George H. (I have a hate/love relation with coffee makers... well mostly hate.)

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 10 03:58PM -0400 How do they manage the input, what's the purpose of the output?   https://www.amazon.com/ZMI-PowerPack-Smallest-Lightest-Separately/dp/B06XRVHDLM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1539197728&sr=8-13&keywords=power+pack+iphone   When the only input port(s) are Micro-USB or USB-C how would they manage other than 5 volt inputs? But it says Input: (QC 2.0) 5V/2A, 9V/2A, 12V/1.5A   And how and for what purpose would there be 9 and 12v outputs? It ways Output: (QC 2.0) 5.1V/2.4A, 9V/1.6A, 12V/1.2A (Voltage/current levels supported by devices are automatically detected and adapted to.)   Are 9 or 12 volt devices about to come on the market? Have they done so already when I wasn't looking?   As to how, that is easy, by coming up with cables that are usb and one end and something else (???, barrel connectors?) at the other. They don't make those now, do they?   My car runs on 12 volts. Will this power my car?

Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Oct 10 04:31PM -0700 On 10/10/2018 12:58 PM, micky wrote: > end and something else (???, barrel connectors?) at the other. They > don't make those now, do they?   > My car runs on 12 volts. Will this power my car?   Read a bit of the FAQ for the Qualcomm Quick Charge 2.0 USB charger.   https://www.qualcomm.com/solutions/mobile-computing/features/quick-charge/faq

notX <no.email@dummy.invalid>: Oct 10 09:18PM -0500 On 10/10/2018 02:58 PM, micky wrote:   > When the only input port(s) are Micro-USB or USB-C how would they manage > other than 5 volt inputs? But it says > Input: (QC 2.0) 5V/2A, 9V/2A, 12V/1.5A   USB-3.1/USB-C can work at those other voltages. Voltage is 5V until the devices on both ends of the cable agree about what voltge to provide.     > As to how, that is easy, by coming up with cables that are usb and one > end and something else (???, barrel connectors?) at the other. They > don't make those now, do they?   The other device (or custom cable) would have to be able to communicate with the source to request a voltage other than 5V.   > My car runs on 12 volts. Will this power my car?   Your car uses just 1.2A?

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 10 10:37PM -0400 In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 10 Oct 2018 16:31:38 -0700, Bob F   >> My car runs on 12 volts. Will this power my car?   >Read a bit of the FAQ for the Qualcomm Quick Charge 2.0 USB charger.   >https://www.qualcomm.com/solutions/mobile-computing/features/quick-charge/faq   Thanks I read the whole thing.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 10 11:00PM -0400 In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 10 Oct 2018 21:18:20 -0500, notX >> Input: (QC 2.0) 5V/2A, 9V/2A, 12V/1.5A   >USB-3.1/USB-C can work at those other voltages. Voltage is 5V until the >devices on both ends of the cable agree about what voltge to provide.   Very clever. >> don't make those now, do they?   >The other device (or custom cable) would have to be able to communicate >with the source to request a voltage other than 5V.   Monoprice doesnt' seem to have these, but searching amazon on USB to 12v power cable yields a bunch, like this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079ZY3MQB/ref=twister_B072C92KWV?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 designed for tablets PC, big machine, big speaker, external battery, power bank etc but only 5V and no mention of laptops, and no barrel that will fit a Dell (which has a thin center pin)   I also found this: https://www.amazon.com/aceyoon-Adapter-Universal-Connector-Thinkpad/dp/B0722J415P/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0722J415P&pd_rd_r=bdc4fad4-ccff-11e8-a739-33eb8bfc8d81&pd_rd_w=tkzz7&pd_rd_wg=tHyyx&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=71W3K9R76EMZ9G1XMYVT&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=71W3K9R76EMZ9G1XMYVT 38 different tips. I thought I was doing good with 10.   I can't find the right cable, but my Dell laptop needs more than 12v iirc and the Acer Aspire used less but still more than 12v I think, so maybe I shouldn't look any longer.   >> My car runs on 12 volts. Will this power my car?   >Your car uses just 1.2A?   I have to check the owners manual.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 11 05:46AM -0700 On Thursday, 11 October 2018 04:00:26 UTC+1, micky wrote:   > >> My car runs on 12 volts. Will this power my car?   > >Your car uses just 1.2A?   > I have to check the owners manual.   A car battery can be charged slowly on 1.2A, but requires a bit more than 12v to do so.     NT

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 10 10:07AM -0700 >"Installing that might need a gas service shut-off AND an electric utility shut-out before work begins in addition to everything else. Just to make sure the random spark doesn't find its way in. "   This particular tank has no electricity. It is fright next to the furnace. The furnace is supposed to be all by itself but we got all conduit so I can easily pull more wire through it.   Far as the gas is concerned there is a shutoff right by the meter. Plus I know what I'm doing, not that I would work on live gas. It's bad enough when I work on live electricity. And don't start that safety shit, there are plenty of installations with shared neutrals that can kill you just as fast with the branch circuit turned off, and it is impractical to turn off the whole building. So sometimes you just have to know how to respect electricity.   >"Then you bear future insurance costs instead of them. "   Only if it is the cause of the damage. The old you are responsible for anything and everything if the place burns down is an old Husband's tale. Like driving with no license or under suspension, many people will tell you anything happens, even if you get rear ended it is your fault, that is also bullshit. If it IS your fault you may be in more hot water but if it is not your fault all is the same. Even if the cops is WRONG and puts "caused" "Accident" on there that is not a judgement and it gets thrown out of court and disappears and you get a reduced charge.   Plus the fact that nothing is going to happen. With all the work I've done and no problems I would rather do it than have anyone else do it, I have seen their work. It's like a contractor's license is to do whatever you want, and business insurance to so you don't lose your assets if you get sued. Shit should be illegal and people should be responsi9ble for what they do.   Of course people are so god damn stupid I saw an insurance card or something that said "Having insurance does not prevent you from having an accident, you must still drive safely". And you know about the notice in the newer RVs right ?   Anyway, what I meant by the heater goes where it does is because I am not getting a pipe threader that big to do one job. I mean, how many people are going to call me out of the blue to do that ? So then precut pipes go where they go and you adjust the water lines and electrical to hit where it is. I can run pipe and conduit.   Of course some people call the gas company to light a pilot light. In fact years ago a buddy was on his way up my front step and a neighbor who had just moved in pulled him aside and paid him $ 20 to install a gas stove. Just hook it up. I could understand if he knew me and looked for me, but not knowing anything... ??? And then they get % 75 to install a ceiling fan into an existing box if it is sturdy enough, which takes about a half hour. I would do it for $ 50 if it is local. If I have to travel then of course it is more. And actually it is the DIY stores that do it for $ 75, a real electrician would charge quite a bit more.   The one thing I will not do right now is install a backup generator. It has to be just right, if not you could kill a lineman. Mind you this is a guy trying to get your power back on so you don't have to keep filling the generator with whatever runs it. I haven't even seen it done so I won't.   Now, I burnt my fingers doing cement work yesterday...don't ask.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 10 10:09AM -0700 >"I used flex and a flaring tool. Flare-nut fittings are reliable, simple (remember to put the nut on before making the flare!), and effective."   And illegal in some areas. I heard Canada or parts of it. That means all the stoves and dryers are hard piped in. It is not that hard as long as the floor is level and solid. Obviously you have to use a union and it helps if the two sides connect.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 10 10:10AM -0700 >"NOTE: Many gas cut-off valves require considerable hand strength, or have very short handles."   Around here they got no handles, you need a wrench.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 10 10:18AM -0700 > >"NOTE: Many gas cut-off valves require considerable hand strength, or have very short handles."   > Around here they got no handles, you need a wrench.   Not much use in an emergency, then.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 10 10:38AM -0700 > >"I used flex and a flaring tool. Flare-nut fittings are reliable, simple (remember to put the nut on before making the flare!), and effective."   > And illegal in some areas. I heard Canada or parts of it. That means all the stoves and dryers are hard piped in. It is not that hard as long as the floor is level and solid. Obviously you have to use a union and it helps if the two sides connect.   WOW!   Storage water heaters do not vibrate, also true of tankless units. Also true (effectively) with most boilers and well-designed furnaces. But Dryers? Hard-piping a dryer without accommodation for vibration is a recipe for disaster. And, how does one service a hard-piped stove? Are you sure?   How insurance works with a suspended license: The Insurance Company insures the vehicle, and what it does, not the driver. So, they will pay any valid claims to the limit of your policy. However, the will not defend you as they would if you were driving legitimately. You will eat the legal costs. And the costs of any appeal(s), and so forth.   How insurance works with sub-standard work: We have our house insured for Actual Replacement Cost/Replacement in Kind. That, as it happens, comes with an estimated limit of $1,300,000. It is a center-hall colonial built in 1890 and so forth. You may bet that our insurance company verified everything in the house prior to writing the policy, including an on-site inside/out.   I do something - the house burns down as a result. Two possibilities: a) If that "something" is specified within the limits of the policy as "must be done by licensed mechanic", I am SOL. They will pay legitimate liability claims (such as burning down the house next door), but nothing on the house. b) If that "something" is not on the By-Licensed list, they will pay without demur. I might not get coverage again, but they will pay. c) I can do anything I want, listed or not, as long as I have it inspected by the proper people or organization(s). A record of acceptance covers everything.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 11 12:14AM -0700 >"But Dryers? Hard-piping a dryer without accommodation for vibration is a recipe for disaster."   Yes but there are ways. If you have a certain length of pipe in a certain direction and another perpendicular sorta, it is hard to explain but it can be done. I wouldn't want to do it. Plus note that I am not sure of the specifics. I said "I heard" and while there was no reason to lie that doesn't mean I got the details, like the exemptions.   >"How insurance works with a suspended license: The Insurance Company insures the vehicle, and what it does, not the driver. So, they will pay any valid claims to the limit of your policy. However, the will not defend you as they would if you were driving legitimately. You will eat the legal costs. And the costs of any appeal(s), and so forth. "   It is a little bit different here. Insurance does go with the car usually and it gets complicated when driving other people's cars. The payee must have a vested interest in the car and sometimes that includes the loan company. If it is paid off you can get just simple liability to be legal, full coverage is then an option.   You could also get or post a financial responsibility bond. this allows yo to drive anything but a commercial vehicle. If you get one from a company the policy gives them the right as well as the obligation to settle the matter. The downside is if your liability limit is say $ 100,000 they can settle for a million and leave you holding the bag for the other $ 900,000.   It got fucked up by insurance lobbyists, the same type of folks who wrote Obamacare. (the ACA)   >"You may bet that our insurance company verified everything in the house prior to writing the policy, including an on-site inside/out. "   They rarely do that around here. they do a questionnaire though. the also inspect form the outside. It seems their main concern is liability, which is understandable, not so much if you got too old a furnace or whatever. They ask what amperage service the house has, if it is 100 or more they assume it has modern wiring and breakers. They had no idea what I had going on in the basement but they did send a notice once telling up we must put more gravel in the driveway, someone could trip and fall. They REALLY want to know if you have a swimming pool, and of course a fence around it.   >"c) I can do anything I want, listed or not, as long as I have it inspected by the proper people or organization(s). A record of acceptance covers everything. "   Pretty much the same. It can be inspected after the fire as well so as long as everything is done right they can't weasel out of it. But then you do have to read the policy. I won't get Allstate because a friend of mine got a policy with them and it was not what was agreed, he called and they changed it, still not right, he called again and they changed it again, still not right. Then he dropped their ass. See, they think nobody is going to read the fine print. Well I don't know how I attracted my crowd but they all read the fine print. Most also read the labels on food now. We all wait until all else fails before reading the manual though that goes with the territory.   People just believe people. I wasn't there when they were making the deal for my Mother's new driveway, they put it about an inch higher than the old one so water now gets in the garage and it doesn't match the steps in front anymore. I would have sued but it is too late now. I'm sure they would have said "That's code" and I would have said "Show me on the book" and they would get me to the wrong section about surveying and all this and say it must be at that level. This is only true of certain things, not a driveway. Come on, the thing isn't level anyway and how do they explain basements ? I would have told them GTFO. They also sold her a bunch of useless drain cleanouts that now make plowing almost impossible. I might cut them off this year. We might be able to get the city top come and plow for free. Problem is how to do it. I need to stuff something in there and then have enough room for a little bit of cement.   But whenever a contractor says something is code tell him "Show me the book" and then really pay attention, make sure that $ 1,000 job that must be done instead of the $ 200 job REALLY DOES apply to THAT job. Fucking god damn goniffs, and it is like almost all of them. That is why the people for whom I do work will have nobody else. Plus I charge in stages so if they want to pay cash and not get a loan they can do that more easily.   Laws do vary state to state and I wouldn't want to make a new start in another location at this late date in life. I can satisfy them here, but like California, if they really dragged me there in chains, kicking and screaming I still wouldn't try it there. Earthquake code and all this shit, fuck all that. I'm sure I can do it once I learn about it but I simply won't.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 10 03:02PM -0400 When restoring the old tube equipment (tube receivers ) does it make any difference if the old paper capacitors are replaced iwth the ceramic disk or should another type be used ?   I know for RF one needs to use capacitors that are rated for rf but in the audio stages does it really matter what kind of capacitor is used as long as it is the correct value ?     Reason for asking is that I bought an old receiver that someone has replaced many of the capacitors. The book says pape capacitors for some but they have been replaced by the ceramic disk type.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 10 12:55PM -0700 On Wednesday, 10 October 2018 20:02:23 UTC+1, Ralph Mowery wrote:     > Reason for asking is that I bought an old receiver that someone has > replaced many of the capacitors. The book says pape capacitors for some > but they have been replaced by the ceramic disk type.   a lot of ceramic caps suffer severe loss of capacity once a few volts are applied. If it works fine, great. If the limited amount of original bass has vanished, that might be why. If rf drifts all over the place as mains voltage varies...   It depends on the type of ceramic, some don't suffer this but most do.     NT

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 10 12:59PM -0700 Mylar and polyester film caps are better than ceramic disk type for most purposes. Ceramic disk types are better than foil and paper if the foil and paper caps are more than a few hours old.   This also applies to Russian PIO caps - the latest fad in boutique audio. They are no better than they should be, and, for the record, less safe and less reliable than their Mylar/polyester equivalents. What they 'sound' like is irrelevant as unless the initial quality is truly wretched, capacitors of any given class sound no different than other capacitors of that class, whatever the price-tag.   Correct value is the key, and then the environment and requirement for precision. Modern Silver Mica caps are very precise, very stable and resist heat and accept harsh environments. Then down the line to mylar, ceramic disc, polyester. But the reality is that a consumer-grade receiver is a very gentle environment overall.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 10 02:25PM -0700 On Wednesday, 10 October 2018 20:55:39 UTC+1, tabby wrote:   > a lot of ceramic caps suffer severe loss of capacity once a few volts are applied. If it works fine, great. If the limited amount of original bass has vanished, that might be why. If rf drifts all over the place as mains voltage varies...   > It depends on the type of ceramic, some don't suffer this but most do.   > NT   it also can cause nonlinear distortion if C is changing as signal voltage changes.   The other cap type to be a bit cautious of in valve kit is polystyrene, the dielectric has low melting point.   The issues with electrolytics & paper are relatively well known.   Oh, also beware of reduced voltage rails that go very high during warm-up. Caps there might need 400v+ rating despite running at 20v.     NT

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 10 07:51PM -0400 In article <8ac9b883-6183-4cd1-a10b-fb5e81bae97c@googlegroups.com>, tabbypurr@gmail.com says...   > The issues with electrolytics & paper are relatively well known.   > Oh, also beware of reduced voltage rails that go very high during warm-up. Caps there might need 400v+ rating despite running at 20v.   Thanks, I may replace the 'replaced' capacitors with some of the 'Orange Drop' ones I have if I ever pull the receiver back out of the case.   I am using it a boat anchor station from around the time I was born along with a Johnson Viking ll transmitter. By the time I was old enough to get into electronics much had switched to solid state, but I did learn enough to do repair work but replace like parts with like parts except the paper capacitors with the newer tublar type. As mentioned electrolytics do tend to dry out after 50 years.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 10 04:07PM -0400 In article <5f9f45b3-eb8e-4a7a-9d82-a1c8ad33592f@googlegroups.com>, jurb6006@gmail.com says...   > >"What is the program that uses this format ? "   > LTSpice 4   > There is a newer version but hardly anyone has it, I don't remember why. You might need the newer version on a 64 bit OS.   I have played just a little with ltspice in the past. How do I get the text into the program ? When I just copied wat you sent into a txt file and pasted it in, that is all that shows up on the screen, not a schematic.   I did not have it on this computer, so I downloaded the latest version for win 10.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 10 02:28PM -0700 OK, you get the beginning where it says "Version", you take the mouse and drag from the beginning there and move the mouse down. You then get to the bottom. you can tell the commands so you know where they end. Where I wrote "Only two caps and four diodes is NOT part of the text you want.   With all that blued up, or whatever color your scheme makes selected text you hit Ctrl+C, or rigthclick and click "Copy" form the box.   Now minimise the browser and whatever, get to the desktop, (or folder somewhere) and either from the menu or right click hit "New and then go to "Text Document". Click that and and let it open. With a left click put the cursor in there and either hit Ctrl+V or rigthclick and hit paste from that box.   It should all appear. Save. You can hit close and it'll ask to save, say yes. Now go to the file and remname it, but you need to change the extension as well, so I don't know how much trouble newer Windows will give you but you rename it to "Whatever.asc". then double click it and it should open up LTSpice and show the schematic. Once you get handy with the program you can run simulations on it, after choosing the circuit values of course. It can figure out like ripple on that doubler and you can change the cap values and a few other parameters, and for the current draw you need to add a resistor and specify its value with Ohm's law. Like if you are in the US and in doubler mode and want to see how it performs at 1 amp draw, put a 320 ohm resistor there because it is 320 volts. You DO have to figure out some things, especially component values, it does not have that ability.   Giver it a try and come back with any questions. I am surprised it isn't in the manual actually, it is the modus de jure to put a schematic through a text only medium, such as this newsgroup.   The only main problem with it is that it doesn't have a god damn potentiometer. There is a way to make one, but I am not good enough with it yet. I wish there was a place i could just download it and pout it in the "library" but have not found it. The other problem is that the recipient of the file has to have the symbols all in his library. If not it will display all it can without whatever it doesn't recognize. That's why I would like to see a pot downloadable, so it is standardized. If five people do it five different ways it is not going to work.   If you got a pot in your library we'll have to figure out how to propagate it. Hopefully it'll work in 4.   Yeah right, hopefully, famous last words of the damned. LOL

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 10 02:31PM -0700 And no bitching about me mixing Latin and French, it's all Greek to me.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 10 07:39PM -0400 In article <1bbb09aa-eb01-4524-adea-6e6cd339892e@googlegroups.com>, jurb6006@gmail.com says...   > It should all appear. Save. You can hit close and it'll ask to save, say yes. Now go to the file and remname it, but you need to change the extension as well, so I don't know how much trouble newer Windows will give you but you rename it to "Whatever.asc". then double click it and it should open up LTSpice and show the schematic. Once you get handy with the program you can run simulations on it, after choosing the circuit values of course. It can figure out like ripple on that doubler and you can change the cap values and a few other parameters, and for the current draw you need to add a resistor and specify its value with Ohm's law. Like if you are in the US and in doubler mode and want to see how it performs at 1 amp draw, put a 320 ohm resistor there because it is 320 volts. You DO have to figure out some things, especially component values, it does not have that ability.   Thanks, just changing the text file to .asc was the trick.   I had done the copy and past into notepad but it saved it as a circuit.txt Had I saved it as circuit.asc I would have had it.   It has been a year or two from the last time I looked at LTSpice.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 10 03:02PM -0400 Why is this, charging and using battery pack at the same time.   3 out of 4 answers say it's bad. Why? or why not?   https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/Tx10I7HVBTAQGV6/ref=ask_dp_dpmw_al_hza   And what is "PD capable".

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