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<698839253X6D445TD@nospam.org>: Oct 07 08:36PM John Larkin wrote >I scrape magnet wire with an x-acto knife. That leaves a shiny surface >that wets nicely. I think the professional wire strippers use rotating >knives.   I just select 375 °C as soldering temperature, that burns the magnet wire insulation, and then you can just tin it. Scraping damages the wire. But watch out for the terrible possible toxic smell.

Chris <cbx@noreply.com>: Oct 07 04:41PM On Sun, 07 Oct 2018 09:35:55 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:   > photos not too clear, but looks like you need to be applying more > solder. If there's black muck involved, clean the joint better.   mebe theres something wrong wiht your browser as they show up v. clear indeed on my monitor at any rate. outstandingly clear in fact i would say. rotten soldering!

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno@decadence.org: Oct 08 01:00AM > You need a good temperature controlled soldering iron, > some solder wick, some 60/40, and there you go. > I count to 14 at 320 C for it to flow ... around pins.   60/40 is for plumbing.   The electronics industry settled on and proved to be the best 63/37 and for decades it was. This RoHS shit is the worst thing the world ever did. Metallic form lead is not dangerous to the environment.   If it were, there would be huge lead levels around all the damned police shooting ranges in the nation. There is not.

Steff <e-post.nu@gmx.com>: Oct 07 07:56PM +0200 Really bad.. Im suprised that the diods are still alive after that burn. Have to be a newly employed that did not get His/her 2hr education before doing the job     Den 2018-10-07 kl. 18:08, skrev Cursitor Doom:

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 07 04:08PM Hi all,   I just fixed up this classic Tek 466 scope I've been meaning to get around to sorting out for the last few years. As you can see, my soldering is atrocious. I've been soldering this type of circuitry for 50 years and never got any better at it in all that time. When it comes to soldering and part-placement, I suck donkey dick! Check it out and enjoy at my expense:   https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/45109856712/in/dateposted- public/   and...   https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/44247281105/in/dateposted- public/     As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

bitrex <user@example.net>: Oct 07 09:36PM -0400 On 10/07/2018 12:08 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote:   > As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!   Eh. This was the soldering job in a commercially-sold SMPS bench power supply from an Amazon.com reseller, IIRC, this was how it looked when it left the mfgr, I took this photo immediately after opening the enclosure and pulling the PCB (it had stopped working! can you believe it)   <https://www.dropbox.com/s/65km6pbq8wzch54/IMG_20171005_104357775.jpg?dl=0>

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Oct 13 04:47AM -0700 On Sunday, October 7, 2018 at 1:36:07 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > 3. Are those 3300uF 25V caps 85C caps or 105C? The photo looks like > 85C. If so, they'll last about 6 months inside a hot oscilloscope.   > 4. Clean the enamel off the wires with sandpaper before you solder.   I wonder if the grit of abrasive saw blades is too strong for that.

Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Oct 13 01:09PM >> 85C. If so, they'll last about 6 months inside a hot oscilloscope.   >> 4. Clean the enamel off the wires with sandpaper before you solder.   > I wonder if the grit of abrasive saw blades is too strong for that.   Grit!? Emery paper is all tht's needed.   Jonesy

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Oct 13 09:23AM -0700 On Saturday, October 13, 2018 at 9:09:54 AM UTC-4, Allodoxaphobia wrote:   > >> 4. Clean the enamel off the wires with sandpaper before you solder.   > > I wonder if the grit of abrasive saw blades is too strong for that.   > Grit!? Emery paper is all tht's needed.   Exactly, what if you don't HAVE Emery or sandpaper. Just abrasive saw blades? (or maybe a belt sander)

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 12 12:19PM -0700 On Friday, October 12, 2018 at 9:24:31 AM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:   > Providing that the thermal infrared emissivity of the surface is high, > e.g. plastic or glass. A dab of grease or some tape will make it work a > lot better.   I have not experienced that issue, for the record. What I find is that accuracy starts to suffer as the battery gets weak. I view them the same as smoke-alarm batteries - 2x per year, whether I need it or not. And the used batteries are put aside for my increasing number of novelty radios that the grandkids are fighting over. Not in them, but with them for demonstration purposes.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Oct 12 06:31PM -0400 >> e.g. plastic or glass. A dab of grease or some tape will make it work a >> lot better.   > I have not experienced that issue, for the record.   What testing have you done?   What I find is that accuracy starts to suffer as the battery gets weak. I view them the same as smoke-alarm batteries - 2x per year, whether I need it or not. And the used batteries are put aside for my increasing number of novelty radios that the grandkids are fighting over. Not in them, but with them for demonstration purposes.   You can't do good IR temperature measurements on shiny metal surfaces. Nasty grey pitted aluminum is about halfway between shiny metal and a true black body.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com

Steff <e-post.nu@gmx.com>: Oct 05 05:54PM +0200 Well just lost a channel at my Harman Kardon 930 Vintage geek as I am I want to keep my great Reciver and repair it..   What I done sofaar   Check Fuses ( They are OK) Moving the speakers between the channels left-Right And A and B speaker outlets.   With this info I understand that the left Channel is ALMOST dead turning the balance to Left channel I can hear a faint OK sound. (Like the tiny transistors trying their best before the end power transistors do their job.   My conclution.   1 Not enough power to the end transistors on the left channel. 2 Broken End Trasistors (two 2SC897 according to the scematics) 3 End of preamp broken on left channel.     Most likely End transistors..   Is my thinking OK or did I miss something ?   I am a beginner in HiFi electronics but have basic skills in electricity as an electrician for 25 years and do know how to solder..

Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Oct 05 12:04PM -0500 >Is my thinking OK or did I miss something ?   >I am a beginner in HiFi electronics but have basic skills in electricity >as an electrician for 25 years and do know how to solder.. Try pushing the tape monitor and other push button switches on the front panel a few times to see if the channel comes back. If it does, spray the switch with DeOxit 5 or equivalent.

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Oct 05 10:02AM +0200 Indetails :   In DC annd LF (50/60 Hz), cooke doesn't change anything   In HF it make the impedance od the cale higher so, HF in return is blocked to comply EMC rules.   It is a common mode dual inductance.   It is easy to create one with a suitable toroid and somes turns of the 2 wires in //.   The ferrite must be high Q and high µ values.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 12 12:56PM -0700 On Thursday, October 11, 2018 at 9:35:28 AM UTC-4, Percival P. Cassidy One of > those thermal fuses is bad, but with no way of spot-welding a > replacement in place is there any practical way of fixing it?     https://i.etsystatic.com/13173278/r/il/dc8519/1058697417/il_642xN.1058697417_dgpn.jpg   Then, eutectic silver solder.   https://www.amazon.com/Cardas-Soldering-Eutectic-Silver-Solder/dp/B015X68HXW   Safe, effective, and will withstand the heat.   Use the squig (soldering ring) to join the ends and then crimp it. Solder with silver solder. Done.   I keep both for just these sorts of repairs, and also my wife's jewelry.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 12 12:14PM -0700 On Friday, October 12, 2018 at 11:15:44 AM UTC-4, Look165 wrote: > Why is there an alternator in a car ?   > It is charging when the battery is on also !   Even back in the days of generators and voltage regulators the size of coffee cans.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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