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burfordTjustice <burfordTjustice@tues.uk>: Dec 04 10:08AM +0100 Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org> From: burfordTjustice <burfordTjustice@tues.uk> Subject: Re: WD-40 to clean electric contacts? Message-ID: <oe85dn$6fb$3@dont-email.me> Newsgroups: alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair

bitrex <user@example.net>: Dec 03 08:53PM -0500 Due to an unfortuante jab with the head of a screwdriver it looks like I have at least one, possibly two broken traces on this GPU card, on the traces running between the processor and VRAM. Result is corrupted display output/won't switch into high-resolution modes. The ram is BGA and the GPU likewise and under a small heat-sink so hard to test continuity, plus the trace width is very small, looks like perhaps 4 mil:   <https://www.dropbox.com/s/ig9h3vjze5omlie/2018-12-3%2018-11-20.jpg?dl=0>   Palette inverted:   <https://www.dropbox.com/s/m05pikt3yexq2f6/2018-12-3%2018-11-30.jpg?dl=0>   Any suggestions for mending a break on a trace like this?

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Dec 04 01:05PM +1100 On 4/12/18 12:53 pm, bitrex wrote:   > Palette inverted:   > <https://www.dropbox.com/s/m05pikt3yexq2f6/2018-12-3%2018-11-30.jpg?dl=0>   > Any suggestions for mending a break on a trace like this?   Fine wire. Pre-tin it, solder to one side of the break, pull straight and solder the other side. Make sure the track has wettable surfaces exposed first, or course.   Clifford Heath.

bitrex <user@example.net>: Dec 03 09:27PM -0500 On 12/03/2018 09:05 PM, Clifford Heath wrote: > and solder the other side. Make sure the track has wettable surfaces > exposed first, or course.   > Clifford Heath.   Thanks, will try. Even with magnification, smallest tip I have and a Zen meditation session beforehand I'm not sure I'm precise enough to pull this off but I'll take a shot at it

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Dec 03 06:56PM -0800 On Monday, December 3, 2018 at 6:27:11 PM UTC-8, bitrex wrote:   > Thanks, will try. Even with magnification, smallest tip I have and a Zen > meditation session beforehand I'm not sure I'm precise enough to pull > this off but I'll take a shot at it   The tip size isn't important, really: the pretinned wire will be so fine, that it will wet the bared trace and stick, and adjacent (solder-mask-covered) traces won't ever get hot enough to wet (with the solder) even if you make a big blob. The hard part, will be if you move the wire just a bit, it could lift half the trace before connecting to the other half. Use tape to position and hold the patch wire, and trim it to just bridge the break after cooling.   And, you'll want an artist's small paintbrush to apply flux.

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Dec 04 03:59AM +0100 On 4-12-2018 3:05, Clifford Heath wrote: > and solder the other side. Make sure the track has wettable surfaces > exposed first, or course.   > Clifford Heath.   +20

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 04 08:34AM On 04/12/2018 01:53, bitrex wrote:   > Palette inverted:   > <https://www.dropbox.com/s/m05pikt3yexq2f6/2018-12-3%2018-11-30.jpg?dl=0>   > Any suggestions for mending a break on a trace like this?   Assuming only light currents. Lightly abraid in that area , to enough bare traces, cover with silver-loaded paint. When perfectly dry, score parallel lines with a scalpel blade . Check for any bridging before perhaps coating with lacquer

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 03 04:41PM -0800 I live on an island and it is hard to get CNC repair people out to look at the machines. So I fix 'em myself. The Miyano lathe developed a problem last week. It refused to execute one particular M code, the spindle speed could no longer be controlled in a program, the jog spindle speed dial now controlled speed even in auto mode when it should not, and the "used up" alarm came on after every part. I called FANUC and they figured it was a particular circuit board. I found one on eBay and ordered it. But it's a week and a half away. I checked all the diagnostic parameters and everthing was fine. Then this afternoon I checked the regular parameters and one had changed. A parameter who's function is not listed in the book so I didn't know what it did. But I had written down all the parameters when I bought the machine, they are mostly 8 digits long, just ones and zeros, but some are otherwise, such as backlash amounts, which are entered as some multiple of one ten thousandth of an inch. The machine was used when I bought it so some of the original parameters could have changed, like backlash. And I have changed parameters too in order to get the machine to do things it did not do when I bought it. So I got into the back of the machine, where all the high voltage is, along with the computer, opened up the computer enclosure and flipped the parameter change switch. Then I used the control keyboard to change the parameter back to where it was, got back behind the lathe and flipped the parameter switch, cleared the alarm that happens whenever a parameter is changed, and the machine now works great. All I did was change a 0 back to a 1. I wonder how the damn parameter changed in the first place? Anyway, I am really happy now. Really happy. I mean REALLY HAPPY! Eric

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Dec 04 09:14AM +0800 > parameter changed in the first place? > Anyway, I am really happy now. Really happy. I mean REALLY HAPPY! > Eric   Yeah, sorta like rule 1 "Reboot" :-)

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Dec 03 05:15PM -0800 In article <v6ib0eprmjiaikh9i355ns2tiqvirgk07q@4ax.com>, > A parameter who's function is not listed in the book so I >didn't know what it did. But I had written down all the parameters >when I bought the machine   Very wise!   > All I did was change a 0 back to a 1. I wonder how the damn >parameter changed in the first place?   Might have been a bit flip in memory somewhere (cosmic ray, bad IC, etc.).   Or, is possible to change those parameters under software control that doesn't require the manual "parameter unlock" switch? A garbled command sent to the device - even a one-character error in transmission - might have "silently" changed a parameter in an unexpected way.   Or, maybe, this parameter was changed as a side-effect of some other (legal and reasonable) command?

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 03 05:17PM -0800 > parameter changed in the first place? > Anyway, I am really happy now. Really happy. I mean REALLY HAPPY! > Eric   If this machine's computer uses a battery backup CMOS RAM then your problems could be just starting. If a lithium battery, then change it with the power on so you don't loose any settings (and very clever of you to record that info!), if Ni-Cad then watch out for alkaline leakage and again, replace with power on using an isolated tip soldering iron (batter or propane is easiest) if it requires unsoldering. Extend the wiring to it so it is away from any electronics...   John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 03 05:35PM -0800 On Mon, 3 Dec 2018 17:15:36 -0800, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:   >unexpected way.   >Or, maybe, this parameter was changed as a side-effect of some other >(legal and reasonable) command? As far as I know there is no way, oiher than flipping the parameter switch, to change parameters. And besides, it worked one day and then whenturned on the next day did not. Eric

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Dec 03 05:31PM -0800 Just like early Bally SS machines....

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 03 05:39PM -0800 On Mon, 3 Dec 2018 17:17:18 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >(batter or propane is easiest) if it requires unsoldering. Extend the >wiring to it so it is away from any electronics...   >John :-#)# The machine does have battery backup. An alarm condition tells you when it is time to replace batteries. FANUC controls are very good at telling you when it is time to change batteries. Nevertheless I always change batteries on a schedule so the alarm has only happened once, shortly after I bought the machine. Eric

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 03 05:44PM -0800 On 2018/12/03 5:31 PM, Terry Schwartz wrote: > Just like early Bally SS machines....   Game Plan MPUs are worse for battery self-destruction. The battery is on the side of the board, not the bottom, so the eating is good (for the alkaline)!   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 03 11:21PM -0500 In article <v6ib0eprmjiaikh9i355ns2tiqvirgk07q@4ax.com>, etpm@whidbey.com says... > parameter changed in the first place? > Anyway, I am really happy now. Really happy. I mean REALLY HAPPY! > Eric   Where I worked we had hundreds of devices that had microprocessors in them. For no reason we could tell every once and a while one might do something strange and would have to be reset. This may only happen once a year or so.   When memory chips first came out, it was said that the coverings of them might emit an alpha partical and flip a bit.

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Dec 03 07:35PM In article <373715b3-d4e5-467b-ad63-78261068256b@googlegroups.com>, tabbypurr@gmail.com says... > ... & lots of toxic selenium fumes, so best not tested indoors.   And, IIRC, a horrible smell of cabbage!   Mike.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Dec 03 01:00PM -0800 On Monday, December 3, 2018 at 2:35:42 PM UTC-5, Mike Coon wrote: > > ... & lots of toxic selenium fumes, so best not tested indoors.   > And, IIRC, a horrible smell of cabbage!   > Mike.   Cabbage that's already been digested...

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Dec 03 03:21PM -0500 Hi there,   CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply) is a different company. You can find a company history, in annoying reverse order, so you have to scoll from the bottom up, here:   https://www.ctscorp.com/company/history/   Regards, Tim     On 12/3/2018 8:12 AM, John-Del wrote:

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Dec 03 03:23PM -0500 Hi there,   CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply) is a different company. You can find a company history, in annoying reverse order, so you have to scroll from the bottom up, here:   https://www.ctscorp.com/company/history/   Regards, Tim     On 12/3/2018 8:12 AM, John-Del wrote:

Michael Black <mblack@pubnix.net>: Dec 03 02:34PM -0500 On Sun, 2 Dec 2018, The Real Bev wrote:   > before asking. The problem is crud between the screen and the frame. > Carefully drag the corner of a piece of ordinary paper under the edge all the > way around. Yeah, I was suspicious too, but it worked!   That's interesting, I wonder what other devices might suffer in the same way?   I got a TomTom One GPS for ten dollars at a rummage sale, and the touch aspect seemed flakey initially, but after charging and some use, all seems fine. I got a PDA last year, and the touch screen (you needed a stylus) seems unrepsonsive, I was wondering what might be involved, not that it really matters, it was a few dollars and I have no real use for one.   Michael

The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Dec 03 12:07PM -0800 On 12/03/2018 11:34 AM, Michael Black wrote: > fine. I got a PDA last year, and the touch screen (you needed a stylus) > seems unrepsonsive, I was wondering what might be involved, not that it > really matters, it was a few dollars and I have no real use for one.   So haul it out and try it. Surely you didn't throw it away...   How do the edges know which spot on the screen was touched? Was the bit of crud in ONE specific place that somehow allowed the whole thing to work, like a ground connection or something? Is the whole thing like a required ground connection and a bit of crud somehow breaks that connection? The website guy used paper; what if I'd used a tiny bit of toothpick sliver or wire or plastic?   I have an older Lenovo laptop with a touchscreen that I rarely use; it must have a frame. If it ever goes wonky I'll try it.   -- Cheers, Bev I'd rather not have neighbors. If I can see them, they're too close. In fact, if I can see them through a rifle scope, they're too close. -- Anonymous Coward

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 03 09:15AM -0800 On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 19:38:33 -0500, Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net> wrote:   >> Eric   >I'm just curious as to what product has that spec. 110 VAC on an old >amplifier means line voltage in North America. The 5% is odd to me. Nobsound. Who knows why the spec but I don't want to burn up expensive tubes prematurely. Eric

Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>: Dec 03 12:49PM -0500 > Nobsound. Who knows why the spec but I don't want to burn up expensive > tubes prematurely. > Eric   Do you have a model number?

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 03 09:59AM -0800 On Sunday, December 2, 2018 at 7:38:39 PM UTC-5, Tom Biasi wrote:   > I'm just curious as to what product has that spec. 110 VAC on an old > amplifier means line voltage in North America. The 5% is odd to me.   The US power grid is a strange and wondrous thing!   The last major building (NYC) still on the original Edison DC grid went over to AC in 2007.   Coffin-box AC radios from the 1920s often had a dual-voltage switch inside from 110 VAC to 120 VAC. Back when tubes were a week's salary for the average worker, and were direct-heat triodes, voltages were critical.   Most of US power is still distributed via aerial power lines. The majority of the grid in the Philadelphia, PA area (PMJ) was wired between 1913 and about 1919, and extended as development took place.   As power usage increased over time (our house was built in 1890, first wired in 1913, upgraded in 1928, and very nearly entirely rewired (including those pesky ground wires) in 2006), the power companies had two choices - increase the size of the conductors, leaving the base voltage the same *OR* increase the voltage so as to get more current delivered, and upgrade the transformers as needed. And, as that happened several times, the latter option became the most cost-effective way to get to the necessary end.   And, over time the tariffs were revised (upward) to accommodate large voltage swings.   Most (US-Origin) tube equipment extant - that of vintage variety in any case - is/was designed against the old ways - so about 120 VAC is the highest comfortable voltage to it - and at the same time, 110 VAC will not starve it. At more than that, filaments wear out exponentially more quickly, power-transformers will overheat and more at higher voltages. Zened diodes simply do not cut it for transformer-based equipment as when/if they start to conduct, the load on the power transformer can spike. Fine on a transformerless AA-5 or TransOceanic or similar, but not on a vintage Scott, Dynaco or Fisher amp.   So, bucking is the way to go if one does not wish to invest in a true-Sin-Wave line-conditioner. And, a safety margin (together with the correct fuse) is the proper way to fly.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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