- Source for quality tiny torx screwdriver bits? - 18 Updates
- Home LED Flickers - 5 Updates
- compteur - 2 Updates
| Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Dec 17 11:11AM -0600 >material. >So, any recommendations for a small set of tiny >torx bits that actually hold up under use? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Torx-Screwdriver-Set-70381H/302735271?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25T%7C25-1_HAND+TOOLS%7CNA%7CLIA%7c71700000043839315%7c58700004592003384%7c92700038837660276&gclid=Cj0KCQiAr93gBRDSARIsADvHiOr22bosM03LkORdK-56Md4_lLjurzMk1XXpf59T6jah8gsyPLPJULsaAmZHEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds have held up well for me. |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 17 11:42AM -0600 Who is Husky and where did they come from? In the beginning, they were the OEM for Sears Craftsman Tools. Then Sears found someone that would do a cheaper job. Husky partnered with Home Depot. If you want quality Craftsman tools, you can buy them at Home Depot now, instead of the crap they're selling at Sears. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Dec 17 09:47AM -0800 On Monday, December 17, 2018 at 12:43:01 PM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > Jeff-1.0 > WA6FWi > http:foxsmercantile.com One of the many screw-ups Sears management has pulled over the years. Sears was once far greater than Amazon. Hell, they even sold houses by mail. Now they're on their way out. |
| three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Dec 17 10:40AM -0800 On Monday, December 17, 2018 at 12:43:01 PM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > Jeff-1.0 > WA6FWi > http:foxsmercantile.com Is what you say true regarding Husky manufacturing for Sears? Are you implying that Husky is a made in america brand? (Home Depot is my second home so to speak...IIRC almost every husky thing I looked at was made in China.) I *really* try to buy made in USA but it is usually hard to find. So, ppl have been grousing about this state of affairs for 20+ years and very little has changed, possibly getting worse in some areas. I'll stop here at the risk of taking this thread far far OT. J |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 17 11:20AM -0800 >>torx bits that actually hold up under use? >https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Torx-Screwdriver-Set-70381H/302735271 >have held up well for me. In my never humble opinion, those are not very good. The previous version of those Husky Torx drivers were wonderful. I have several sets and found them to be a very good fit and quite rugged. The new and improved model is garbage, with a sloppy fit. Fast photo: <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Husky-Torx.jpg> The upper driver is the older better model. The lower drive is the current version which I detest. Notice the sides of the Torx bits. The old version has sides that are parallel, while the new version is tapered, producing a smaller point of contact, and a sloppy fit. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 17 12:04PM -0800 80% of Husky tools are made off-shore, primarily in China, but some in Taiwan and Singapore (same difference, but not Communist - not that China is any form of communism. I expect that in a few years, that 80% will increase to very nearly every... It is quite hard to purchase US tools OTC these days, but I have had good luck at electrical and plumbing supply houses - those that cater directly to the trade, that is. And, of course, there is Amazon as well as a few good "made in -insert-country-here- tool on-line tool purveyors. And for everything you purchase that is made "here", your neighbor will thank you! Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Dec 17 12:12PM -0800 On 12/17/2018 11:20 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > current version which I detest. Notice the sides of the Torx bits. > The old version has sides that are parallel, while the new version is > tapered, producing a smaller point of contact, and a sloppy fit. Sloppy fit aside, I'm more concerned about how well the tips hold up in the smaller sizes? Are the new TIPS worse than the old ones? |
| frankcovending@gmail.com: Dec 17 12:15PM -0800 On Monday, December 17, 2018 at 3:19:38 AM UTC-5, mike wrote: > material. > So, any recommendations for a small set of tiny > torx bits that actually hold up under use? I don't hate to say it but harbor freight has a decent set I use. If it doesn't work out they are like a 8 dollar loss or just return them |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 17 12:22PM -0800 >> tapered, producing a smaller point of contact, and a sloppy fit. >Sloppy fit aside, I'm more concerned about how well the tips hold up in >the smaller sizes? Are the new TIPS worse than the old ones? The new tips (bits) are worse. How much worse, I don't know but can measure the error if necessary. Suffice to say that it's a loose fit. Torx in any form holds up well because of the large contact area perpendicular to the direction of force provided by the Torx pattern. Anything that reduces the contact area, such as a tapered side profile and a loose fit, it going to reduce its strength. It would be helpful if you disclose if you are stripping the bit or the mating screw? You might be dealing with a poor fit, bad metalurgy, or excessive force (torque). -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| frankcovending@gmail.com: Dec 17 12:40PM -0800 On Monday, December 17, 2018 at 12:43:01 PM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > Jeff-1.0 > WA6FWi > http:foxsmercantile.com Husky long long long time ago used to be a independent tool manufacturer in the United States, their primary customer was Sears. They were never by any means top of the line but were not crap either. Eventually as conglomerates began to buy out the small brands Husky found it's way into the home depot. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 17 12:52PM -0800 > I don't hate to say it but harbor freight has a decent set I use. If it doesn't work out they are like a 8 dollar loss or just return them I will write this one (1) more time. Purchasing from Harbor Freight is very nearly never a solution to anything. And, by doing so, you are voting with your feet and wallet that your neighbor's job and well-being are meaningless to you. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| frankcovending@gmail.com: Dec 17 01:20PM -0800 > And, by doing so, you are voting with your feet and wallet that your neighbor's job and well-being are meaningless to you. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA ahh. Purchasing from harbor freight is a solution if you have a) limited funding b) one time use of a tool c) diy'er d) sensible It is not a solution if a) you are manufacturer b) rely heavily on your tools to make your living ... A benefit of the cheap store is that if it breaks you can probably replace it that day. If one of my SK tools breaks guess what? I have to mail it to SK. If my snap on tool breaks guess what? Have to wait or find a tool truck. Here's another benefit to the cheap store. Something as simple as a hydraulic jack need not cost $400. Here's another fact. I buy Ingersoll Rand tools and they are made in China. This made in China thing is nothing really new to the united states, but this is the first time we have relied this much on foreign product. I am all for buying American made tools but they're simply over price and there are not many manufacturers left. I bought a 50' 10 gauge extension cord American made... Cost me $90 bucks! The cable is great the ends are crap. Just because it's made in USA does not mean quality. My hammers are all Estwing those were worth the money, but they were reasonably priced! As far as taking jobs away. That happened decades ago and it is difficult to redeem because well would you work for the wage that a Chinese man receives? When the Mexicans started demanding the wages of American workers is when the manufacturing started to leave Mexico and move to overseas as well. I'm an engineer I do not take jobs from people. I have no control over legislation which imposes regulation on businesses in both the financial and environmental aspects. I am not the reason why small family owned tool companies went out of business or sold out 40+ years ago. I still try to buy American tools, but I'm not going to go high and low to find every tool American made and if I did I can tell you the amount of tools I have I would never be able to afford them to all be made in USA. I was discouraged when I bought a Milwaukee right angle drill and it says made in prc when the display model said made in usa. My delta table saw is made in china. Well only the unisaws were made in usa and not all, they were also made in Brazil. Whatever we used to make others can make. There is no reason for other countries to buy from us now days. Maybe during the 40's but not now. They have all of our intellectual property and we have supplied them with the machines and known how to make everything. Condemning harbor freight or the china stores and Chinese are not going to solve any issues. Our current generation is not interested in making tools or anything actually for that matter. Most just want to sit on their behind and play on their stupid phones. Then they want to google all the answers in college... There is no simple single solution to the financial problems in this country. A good place to start would be at home. Don't buy $1000 cell phone, don't buy 5 dollar coffee matter fact just drink water. Exercise and eat healthy to lower your health care costs and increase your condition of living. Don't buy new cars every few years. Fix your own shit. Stop throwing out and re-purpose, re-use. Use cold water not hot. Ride a bicycle if it's local enough and weather permits. Etc. Lowering costs at home helps free up money. If only the fat cats in government can do this but that's an entirely different argument. I can say I do all of those things. I have 3 cars, 1987 benz diesel, 03 saab, 95 dodge. Why old cars? Because they all work and serve a purpose and for as long as I can repair it I will drive it. I'm not for this throw away crap. It took enormous energy to make the 3 vehicles and it takes allot of energy to recycle them, so might as well reuse them. When they can no longer be repaired then they will have to be crushed and sent to the smelter. But this throw away culture, atleast on new cars, is because of insurance. They don't want to pay for any type of repair that may be structural because of liability. They also figure the price to repair vs. replace. Despite the fact the waste is the cause of our energy crisis which we have been hearing about for what oh the late 60's. Peter you bring up a more complex issue than can be solved by simply buying american. No matter how you slice it a foreigner is involved somewhere. Americans are their own worst enemy and most do not even know it. Instead they are focused on that social media crap, bashing the president agree with him or not, and overall just worry about stupid shit rather than learning and working. If not harbor freight they I would look into SK tools. I do not know if they make precision torx bits. Snap on probably makes some. I don't know of anyone in particular that is american and makes a good set in the upper range. |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Dec 17 02:08PM -0800 On 12/17/2018 12:22 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > if you disclose if you are stripping the bit or the mating screw? You > might be dealing with a poor fit, bad metalurgy, or excessive force > (torque). I misunderstood. Thought you were discussing the handle and how it didn't hold the bits well. If you're not using an impact driver, there ain't no such thing as excessive torque. You apply enough torque to loosen the screw. Anything less is useless. If the bit rounds off or breaks before the screw turns, it's not an acceptable tool. If it damages the screw in the process, you've got problems well in excess of a $2 screwdriver bit. Since I don't have any of the tiny bits, my experience is with T7 to T10. I found the shiny bits round off very easily. The dull grey or black bits hold up better. I have shattered bits with the impact driver, but that's not the issue when taking apart a phone. |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Dec 17 02:42PM -0800 > > I'd like to get a set of tiny torx > > screwdriver bits...T9 and smaller > I don't hate to say it but harbor freight has a decent set I use. If it doesn't work out they are like a 8 dollar loss or just return them Yeah, the Pittsburgh Pro 34-pc is my go-to set, as well. You want to FEEL the fit and seating of the tip, so most 1/4" hex handles don't suit this purpose: that HF set has a tightenable chuck on the handle, and 4.0mm hex tips, so it isn't ideal: the shank is short, so the diameter of the chuck needs clearance less than 2cm from the screw head. The Pittsburgh chuck has weak holding of the tip, but there's fixes for that. Ideally, you want a couple of inches of shank behind each tip; some Craftsman screwdrivers are good in this way, but I haven't tried 'em (and won't, unless there's a sale) ... see pix on Amazon <http://a.co/d/erqEGAc> |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 17 02:54PM -0800 >material. >So, any recommendations for a small set of tiny >torx bits that actually hold up under use? Greetings Mike, I use tiny Torx drivers a lot. Pretty much every day. I have found the the WIHA brand drivers to be the best. The best fit in the fasteners and the best durability. By far. I am sure there are other brands just as good. I don't know which though. Probably none any appreciably better though. And boatloads of cheap crap that's way worse. Eric |
| stratus46@yahoo.com: Dec 17 03:14PM -0800 > as good. I don't know which though. Probably none any appreciably > better though. And boatloads of cheap crap that's way worse. > Eric I also use Wiha drivers at work but Peter will still be unhappy. While they are not made in China, they are also not made in USA. They are German. I used to use Xcelite made in USA but hey are poor quality compared to Wiha and to add insult, they cost more. G² |
| frankcovending@gmail.com: Dec 17 03:23PM -0800 I have quite a few German made tools myself and I cannot even recall one bad experience. Heyco, Stahlwille, Bosch, etc you name it all darn good. They usually wear out rather than break. I have a new SK ratchet paid 70 bucks and it broke a week after I bought it... My craftsman still works. Thing is the old school craftsman was usually made be Western Forge a subsidiary of Ideal industries which now owns the SK name. Allot of craftsman tools were made by SK, Proto, there's a couple others but they aren't coming to me. Anyways. Peter seems to forget that Americans would rather buy American and be employed. But when it comes to over priced tool vs. Food on table... Besides the economy is more complex than the average home owner would know. A business owner particularly one in manufacturing knows the struggle. I really don't have too many made in China tools break. I've either been lucky or I know how to pick my tools. I know how to pick my tools. |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Dec 17 12:19AM -0800 I'd like to get a set of tiny torx screwdriver bits...T9 and smaller for disassembling tiny electronic gizmos. I'm looking for a value-priced set. I already have 10 lifetimes supply of larger bits, so the large sets aren't attractive. The flutes on tiny torx bits aren't very big. My experience with the bright silver colored bits get rounded off almost immediately. The darker colored bits seem to last longer. The internet is full of sets with almost zero actual data upon which to base a decision. Google suggests that terms like S2 and CR-V don't mean much. Seems that the tempering has more to do with durability than the material. So, any recommendations for a small set of tiny torx bits that actually hold up under use? |
| frankcovending@gmail.com: Dec 17 12:10PM -0800 > > This is my opinion. They are made very cheaply they aren't made with much shielding so anything can cause them to flicker. > that simply isn't so. The nature of the circuits makes them robust against RFI. > NT Nevermind my comment on RF. I had my thought train crossing. I do think these are made cheaply and they would have to be in order to turn a profit. As far as RF, nah that isn't going to cause flicker. The bulb itself is DC and if there was any RF it would simply be super imposed onto a DC bias which the amplitude from any RFI would be so insignificant and wouldn't matter because well it's a diode. The driver shouldn't respond to RFI because it's an AC/DC converter and the DC is probably being switched which alone would cause RF. Just the AC is creating a field. I really couldn't say exactly what is causing the flicker because I am not present to check the entire circuit. As far as what can cause it. Bad wiring, bad can, bad bulb, corrosion, bulb not installed all the way. Things of that nature. Could be a bad solder joint. I have a Saab which has a bulb out detector. These are notorious for bad solder joints and the symptoms are a headlamp bulb that can flicker or come on and out and you know it all responds to vibration and of course temperature for obvious reasons. Bring back that cheaply made stuff. Yeah they aren't exactly made to last forever because you need to consider the planned obsolesce part. Yes they have been known to last 10+ years but not all of them do and it is because of chance or was it designed to? One can pickup these 60W equivalent 2 packs in HD for 5 bucks when they are on clearance. The retailer still makes a profit the distributor makes a profit the designer, etc. Everyone still gets their money. Maybe not the amount they had in mind by they never give away anything. My worthless 2 cents |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 17 12:55PM -0800 > > NT > Nevermind my comment on RF. I had my thought train crossing. > I do think these are made cheaply and they would have to be in order to turn a profit. As far as RF, nah that isn't going to cause flicker. The bulb itself is DC and if there was any RF it would simply be super imposed onto a DC bias which the amplitude from any RFI would be so insignificant and wouldn't matter because well it's a diode. The driver shouldn't respond to RFI because it's an AC/DC converter and the DC is probably being switched which alone would cause RF. Just the AC is creating a field. The reason the driver doesn't cause flicker in response to RFI is it consists of 1. rectifier & reservoir, which couldn't care less what comes its way 2. oscillator, which is too busy slamming into one rail after the other for rfi to make much difference. If there were low level analogue signals getting amplified it might be a different story. > I really couldn't say exactly what is causing the flicker because I am not present to check the entire circuit. the OP never gave us enough info to narrow it down at all. NT |
| frankcovending@gmail.com: Dec 17 01:24PM -0800 > the OP never gave us enough info to narrow it down at all. > NT the OP never gave us enough info to narrow it down at all. is basically a reiterating of what i said. i'm not present in the persons home. RF isn't a problem anyways because the only signal with great enough amplitude to cause problems are at such low frequencies. there simply isn't enough energy. shorter wavelength = higher frequency = higher energy. i can tell you though if you hooked up an oscilloscope you probably could pickup signalling from something around, but again it's all being fed to a diode one way or another. |
| frankcovending@gmail.com: Dec 17 01:30PM -0800 > > I really couldn't say exactly what is causing the flicker because I am not present to check the entire circuit. > the OP never gave us enough info to narrow it down at all. > NT RF aside the simple answer is it flickers because the person didn't install it correctly, the wiring is crap, or the lamp is a POS. they are made to be replaced |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 17 01:51PM -0800 > > > > > > awhile. They only cost a buck or two, so i'll just replace it, but I > > > > > > wonder what is causing the flicker? > RF aside the simple answer is it flickers because the person didn't install it correctly, the wiring is crap, or the lamp is a POS. they are made to be replaced Or one of the other usual reasons. NT |
| Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>: Dec 17 01:40PM -0500 On 12/13/2018 1:15 PM, Look165 wrote: > Je suis en collectif. > C'est sûrement la même chose pour le gaz et l'électricité. > Merci I didn't realize how many people on this group spoke French. Maybe they just speak Google. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 17 01:16PM -0800 On Monday, 17 December 2018 18:40:48 UTC, Tom Biasi wrote: > > Merci > I didn't realize how many people on this group spoke French. Maybe they > just speak Google. I used google to check I'm not making errors. Pasted it all in and it had a surprise waiting for "In that case, the meter should be at the crossing between public and private pipe." Someone's been playing games with it. NT |
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