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tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 10 11:14PM -0800 On Saturday, 9 February 2019 20:26:12 UTC, John-Del wrote: > On Saturday, February 9, 2019 at 2:18:56 PM UTC-5, three_jeeps wrote:   > > Abstraction and pragmatism goes a long way and can save LOTS of time and energy: Run the car approximately every 10-14 days, for approximately 20-30 mins, while varying the rpm every so often but try to keep RPM a around 800-1000RPM to effectively charge the battery.   > Pretty much the group consensus except for the two loons in particular that like to parse things to absurdity in the name of "discussion". I'm sure we all know to whom I'm referring.   the joys of groupthink.   junk snipped.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 11 04:19AM -0800 > > Pretty much the group consensus except for the two loons in particular that like to parse things to absurdity in the name of "discussion". I'm sure we all know to whom I'm referring.   > the joys of groupthink.   > junk snipped.   Ya know... Sometimes "Groupthink" is a result of multiple individuals having the same experience when faced with the same phenomenon and solving for the same problem. Which makes it "Good Procedure".   Madness, on the other hand, is doing the same thing over and over, and expecting a different result. Or, when a desired result is achieved and understood, repeatedly applying flawed logic in order to change that result - you are a very clear and concise example of that process.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 11 04:58AM -0800 > > the joys of groupthink.   > > junk snipped.   > Ya know... Sometimes "Groupthink" is a result of multiple individuals having the same experience when faced with the same phenomenon and solving for the same problem. Which makes it "Good Procedure".   sometimes, sometimes not. The reasons offered have not added up.   > Madness, on the other hand, is doing the same thing over and over, and expecting a different result. Or, when a desired result is achieved and understood, repeatedly applying flawed logic in order to change that result - you are a very clear and concise example of that process.   I don't know what 'different result' you imagine I'm looking for. I'm not overly worried either.     NT

arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Feb 05 01:43AM On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 17:05:13 -0800 (PST), John-Del wrote:     > NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!! Don't suggest a solution (even a cheap one) > that comes from a credit card lest Arlen Holder or one of his socks > pitches a fit!!!   First off, neither of you appeared to have _comprehended_ the question, which was how much time does it take to recharge the battery to compensate for the charge lost in starting, which I roughly calculated at about 72 seconds, meaning, a couple of minutes "should" recharge the battery if the assumptions I made were reasonable.   Even if you did _comprehend_ the question, you made no attempt to _answer_ the OP's question, which, is par for the course since all you _can_ do is off-topic chit-chat drivel.   NOTE: I don't need to prove that statement since you prove it for me.   Moving on though, assuming the OP is satisfied with the 72 second assumption, there _is_ a question of how often he _needs_ to charge the battery.   I wonder if you, John-Del, have the brains to answer _that_ question? (HINT: I don't think you do ... but maybe you'll prove me wrong.)   HINT: I already calculated it in the same minute (or so) that I calculated the answer I provided - but I didn't post it because, unlike you, I actually _comprehended_ the question that the OP had asked.   HINT: If you can't take a hint - you always prove to be _stupid_, John-Doe. DOUBLEHINT: The proof will be in exactly what you write in response.

arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Feb 05 04:11AM On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 20:59:38 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:   > Quack quack quack, ding, reverse direction.   Two points which _adults_ will comprehend.   1. Snit here acts like a child _all_ the time, and, 2. Snit here didn't even _attempt_ to answer the OP's question.   We really shouldn't fault him as his brain _is_ that of a child. o He proves that fact in _every_ post - as he did here.   Meanwhile, I at least attempted to faithfully answer the guy's question. o And, yet, Snit (aka Fox's Mercantile), calls everyone but himself, a troll.   I don't even have to prove these two statements since he proves it himself. o What Snit (aka Fox's Mercantile) wries, proves these two facts.   1. Snit (aka Fox's Mercantile) is _never_ purposefully helpful, and, 2. Snit (aka Fox's Mercantile) _always_ proves to own the brain of a child.   The funny thing is that it's not even an ad hominem attack! o It's simply pointing out what Fox's Mercantile proves himself to be a fact.

bitrex <user@example.net>: Feb 05 12:51PM -0500 On 02/05/2019 11:05 AM, John-Del wrote: >> WA6FWi >> http:foxsmercantile.com   > I have a C5 Corvette which I store for the winter. If that car is not run in 5 weeks, the battery is DEAD (won't even click the starter solenoid). That is normal behavior for this particular car. When I had an early 2000s Mustang, that car could sit 5 months and start in the spring like it was run the day before. Depends on the car, but between self discharge of the battery and the particular car's parasitic loss, cars need much more than "72" seconds to keep charged.   Throw that junk away man it's an antique

arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Feb 05 01:30AM On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 16:45:34 -0500, Tom Del Rosso wrote:   > you run it to make up for the charge lost in starting?   > In this case it's my neighbor's 87 Buick Regal while he's in the > hospital.   72 seconds   Having said that, here's how I arrived at 72 seconds, bearing in mind there's a complexity to your question which, outside of the engineering specs of both the battery & engine (and parasitics), we can only help you guess at it mathematically, where empirical results would seem to be more accurate than our guestimates.   Starting with the basics, a quick search for a Buick Regal Alternator nets <https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1987/buick/regal/engine_electrical/alternator.html> which says the alternator outputs 100 amps at idle (if needed) and 150 amps output at max rpm (again, if needed as alternators adjust output based on "B" sensing).   Running a direct search for the power needed to start an 87 Buick Regal, it's easy to find the vehicle, but hard to find the power needed to start the engine: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buick_Regal#Grand_National,_Turbo-T,_T-Type,_and_GNX>   We're kind of stuck with the "generic" stuff, such as this: o How Many Amps Does It Take to Start a Car? <https://www.reference.com/vehicles/many-amps-start-car-e35b6f3d4d8bf426> Which says an average car needs 400 to 500 amps but doesn't say how long.   Let's assume it takes five to ten seconds to start it, at 500 amps, where the maximum power would be 10 seconds times 500 amps, which means you sucked out 5,000 Coulombs (i.e., 5000 amp seconds) if the math is right.   If I did the math right, that's less than 1.5 amp hours, and since we guessed high, I'd say the amount used is roughly about 1 amp hour to 1.5 amp hours, but since we want to "be safe" and have "easy math", I'd use 2 amp hours as the amount to add back.   If you put back two amp hours (to cover for inherent losses, mostly in heat), you're back to where you started, where we have to "assume" that the battery sense circuit allows the alternator to output enough current to charge the battery after just one start.   At idle, if we assume the battery sense allows you to get those 100 amps we saw in the spec, to generate 2 amp hours would take only about 0.02 hours, or about 72 seconds (if I did the quick math right) - which - coincidentally - is about how long it took to run the quick math. :)   If that 72 second answer is wrong, I welcome someone who can tell us how to arrive at the better answer.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 04 11:48PM -0500 In article <072fc2e7-dc4d-48ac-b069-4fe7224adbac@googlegroups.com>, ohger1s@gmail.com says...   > I've always been told that short run times creates condensation and acid in the motor oil from incomplete warmup - get her good and hot to drive off moisture. I realize the OP was asking about charging times, but he'd be better served by letting that old Buick idle for a good half an hour every few weeks, or better yet, have OP take the old girl for a blast.   > > OTH, Harbor Freight has cheap little float chargers but 120v power > > will be needed. A friend uses one of these when out of the country: > > https://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-battery-float-charger-42292.html   I am using one of those HF float chargers to hold up a lawn mower battery over the winter. I really use that battery to power a sprayer instead of the lawn mower.   My mower is in a shed with out power. I have a small solar cell about the size of a mouse pad to keep it charged over the winter months.   If starting the mower, I would run it long enough to get the motor and exhaust system hot. Maybe a 5 ot 10 mile trip to the store and back once every 2 weeks or so. It will probably do the other parts of the car some good also.

arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Feb 05 01:34AM On Tue, 5 Feb 2019 01:30:54 -0000 (UTC), arlen holder wrote:   > Let's assume it takes five to ten seconds to start it, at 500 amps, where > the maximum _power _would be 10 seconds times 500 amps, which means you > sucked out 5,000 Coulombs (i.e., 5000 amp seconds) if the math is right.   Ooops... Coulombs ... not power... (power would be via P=IV or I^2R but not amp seconds)...   (I hacked that out in a minute on the run, so, please correct where I err.)

arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Feb 04 11:16PM On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 13:46:22 -0800, The Real Bev wrote:   > things you just can't find here. Like the tool that removes the stem > from strawberries. I'm willing to wait one or two months, I'd been > looking in stores for a year.   Hi The Real Bev,   Nothing you say about Ebay is unreasonable, where I simply reiterate: o The SUBJECT & BODY of the OP explicitly asked about the local hw stores o If the only way an argument can be made is via an "Ebay Auction"... o Then, while it may work, it's not even close to what was asked.   That's why it's kind of funny how dead wrong _everything_ Snit said.   It's like asking: Q: Where can I buy shrimp locally? And they answer: A: Move to Louisiana.   Sure. It's "an" answer; but it isn't a "useful" answer.   In the case of Snit, he just *made it up* (again) that I accuse _anyone_ else of being Snit, since I have _never_ done so, so Fox's Mercantile (who _admitted_ being Snit long ago) is just trying to get out of it.   He _knows_ he admitted he was Snit, and he knows I've _never_ accused anyone else of being Snit but him (since he admitted it himself); so that's why he stumbles along, where you'll notice he ends with a childish ad hominem attack (and more accusations of trolling, which is kind of funny for Snit (aka Fox's Mercantile).   What's funny is I don't even _need_ his ad hominem attacks: o All I need to do is point out exactly what the say - which is what I do.   He proves himself, the simple fact (as in this very thread): o All Snit (Fox's Mercantile) _can_ do, is write off-topic worthless drivel   > readers. Same problem with Amazon. Sellers apologized profusely, > credited back the payment and didn't demand return, although Amazon > wanted a photo of the card.   Yup. I have some a friend gave me from Alibaba orders where he ordered a ton of them. They were highly unreliable in my Samsung Galaxy S3. I gave up on them, even though they were huge in capacity.   I don't know this for a fact, but it _could_ be that they were rejects.   > back door by the kilo. What I wonder about is why the people who bought > them don't all demand a refund -- it's not like it's difficult -- making > their sale wasted effort.   Yup. I don't disagree.   Each batch could be different where it could be rejects, or stolen, or, maybe, if we're lucky, it could just be over production of a batch or a mistake on quantities ordered, etc.   The problem is that on Ebay, at least with most (if not all) the links that were shown, there was no way to tell what you actually get.   Since it takes about a month to ship, you might not even get anything, or, if you do, you get the wrong thing, or, if you get the right thing, it's a reject for some reason or other ... or maybe ... it's pristine.   But it's _still_ not local, which was the question at hand here.   > A lot of what we have to buy here is cheap junk at inflated prices. > Since it's all made in the same place, we might as well buy it at the > best price if we're not in a hurry.   This is a good point that, at a local store, you pay top dollar for what can be sold at the dollar store for a dollar (e.g., Bic Pens as just one example).   Maybe they are rejects; but maybe not. Maybe they're falsely branded; but maybe not.   I know I no longer buy pencils or erasers at the Dollar Store, for example, because they always suck - but the Bic Pens and high lighters and the nail polish I use to mark stuff, and the whiteout I use to mark stuff, seems to work just fine.   You only risk a buck - and - you can trade them in for a credit if you don't like them (which is one reason I almost always buy locally).   > I wish I'd bought more of the $1 Belkin shielded USB cables with the > little LED lights on the ends.   I've had a few things I wish I bought more of, like the fantastic $13 five-gallon jerry jugs for gasoline from Costco. I only bought a half dozen but I wish I had bought more (I stock gasoline since I live in the mountains). They are the BEST gasoline cans sold in California, bar none, and that's saying something because the Blitz and other gas cans I have from Lowes and Home Depot and Ace all suck like you can't believe.   Back on topic, the arts and crafts store didn't have the kind of glue I needed when I went there today, but I'll try another one soon.   What I need, seems to be what Jeff spec'd out, which is: o Ultra thin double-sided tape, or o High solvent temporary sticky glue.

tubeguy@myshop.com: Feb 11 12:32AM -0600 Changing the electrolytic capacitors in vintage tube gear is a must these days, but no one makes the old style (large size) caps anymore. I personally do not trust these small modern caps to last very long. Many computer motherboards have proven how short the life span is on modern caps, and most of them are low voltage types.   Those old caps have lasted 40, 50 sometimes 60 years. I doubt any modern caps will last even 10 years. I tend to wonder if that is because of their small size. Or is it just the construction or materials used? There are some NOS (new old stock) caps available, but they fail regardless if they were used or not, since the electrolyte drys out and moisture may enter them as well.   I dont mind changing caps on vintage gear once, but if I have to change them every 5 or 10 years, I will not be happy.   But since new caps are no longer made, which are made the same as the old ones they are replacing, I have little choice but to use these small modern ones.   That leads to finding brands which are reliable. And I assume price tells all. Cheap imports are likely the worst, while high priced US made ones will last longer.   I doubt any modern caps will last even close to the life span of the old ones, but which brands are the best? (Particularly the ones used for high voltages in tube gear).

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 11 12:45AM -0600 > I personally do not trust these small modern caps to last very long. > Many computer motherboards have proven how short the life span is on > modern caps, and most of them are low voltage types.   All of the new "small modern" caps will out live you.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 10 11:21PM -0800 > I doubt any modern caps will last even close to the life span of the old > ones, but which brands are the best? (Particularly the ones used for > high voltages in tube gear).   The main cause of failure for modern caps is that they're run at high ripple current, something that does not happen in valve equipment.   If you want best reliability, get 120C rated caps rather than 85 and look at their mfr rated lifetime expectancy.   If you plan to send it to the moon, for extreme reliability for small values on HT, put plastic film caps inside the old cases, choosing higher v ratings & putting 2 in series. Then vacuum pot them. This is of course not necessary :)     NT

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 10 11:48PM -0800 > I doubt any modern caps will last even close to the life span of the old > ones, but which brands are the best? (Particularly the ones used for > high voltages in tube gear).     ** You are so full of shit.     Any of these "snap-in" types will replace the high voltage electros in tube amps with advantage. If more then 450V is needed, connect two in series.   https://www.google.com.au/search?ei=MydhXLysIZOl9QOo_r0Q&q=100+uf+450v+snap+in   Out last you for bloody sure.       .... Phil

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 11 10:45AM +0100 In fact, they are reliable, but due to cost reduction, some plants use processses which do not respect the dedicated soldering process and either the component breaks or it's value changes. Specially decoupling caps. generally the problem is located at the terminations.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 11 04:24AM -0800 > I doubt any modern caps will last even close to the life span of the old > ones, but which brands are the best? (Particularly the ones used for > high voltages in tube gear).   Mouser.com DigiKey.com   And any of a dozen other suppliers will be glad to take your money and send you pretty much _exactly_ what you need.   Need multi-section caps? There is AES, Parts Express and half-a-dozen others. There is a company in Germany making Cornell-type cans on OEM equipment, but using modern materials.   And CE Does it right here in the US: https://www.cedist.com/products/capacitors?filters=Brand%3DCE%20Manufacturing   Remember, it is ONLY money.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tubeguy@myshop.com: Feb 11 12:33AM -0600 Working on electronics, as well as cars, homes, and a lot of other things have made me want to get a 3rd arm installed on my body. For example, I am soldering something, and need one hand to hold the item, a second hand for the soldering iron, and a third hand to hold the solder. Hmmmmmm, this is a problem!!!!   I asked my doctor to install a 3rd hand, but he said it was not practical. I asked him what amount of money would get him to do it, and he said he would tackle it for one billion dollars, but could not guarantee it would work. Well, I dont have quite that much money in my bank account. I am probably short a mere 999.99 million. I also want a guarantee that it will work. :)   Seriously, I have seen several online videos of people repairing electronics, and noticed a few of them have some sort of gadget that has a benchtop stand (base) with one or more alligator clips on movable metal arms attached to that base. Those look real handy, but what are they called? I wanted to take a peek on Ebay for such a thing, but without knowing the word to search for, I am clueless what to search.   Does anyone know what to call these devices?   Yea, I could possible make something similar, but more often than not it costs more for parts to make something, than to buy one ready made.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 11 12:53AM -0600 > Those look real handy, but what are > they called? I wanted to take a peek on Ebay for such a thing, but > without knowing the word to search for, I am clueless what to search.   <https://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html>       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 10 10:55PM -0800 > Does anyone know what to call these devices?   > Yea, I could possible make something similar, but more often than not it > costs more for parts to make something, than to buy one ready made.   Do you have trouble using google?   https://www.google.com/search?&q=3rd+hand+electronics   https://www.ebay.com/bhp/third-hand-tool   Sheesh!   John :-#(#

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 11 01:08AM -0600 On 2/11/19 12:55 AM, John Robertson wrote: > Do you have trouble using google?   He has trouble with a lot of things.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 11 04:14AM -0800 https://www.amazon.com/QuadHands-Deluxe-WorkBench-Helping-System/dp/B01MZG2D99/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549887117&sr=8-6&keywords=THird+hand   I have a slightly earlier version of this beast. Those little goose necks are STRONG. Also come with a variety of ends, if asked. The magnetic base allows specific placement as needed. One will hold a typical small circuit board. Two will hold it against considerable pressure.   Made in USA.   Not from Harbor Freight.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tubeguy@myshop.com: Feb 11 12:32AM -0600 This may be a litle off topic, but ignition coils are WEIRD, compared to other transformers. I had to work on the ignition on an old farm tractor last week. I always thought that the high voltage (secondary) was from the tip (spark plug wire), to the coil's metal case. It turns out I was wrong. (I am referring to the old coils which are about the size of a slim beer can, and have a pointed top).   After a lot of research, I found that the secondary is measured from the large center terminal, to the ground (-) side of the primary. Once I learned that, it turns out that the secondary is around 500 to 600 ohms, and the primary is around 6 ohms. (I compared this to several other similar coils, and it is about the same).   These ignitions are very simple, but testing them is a challenge, since they do not follow the (regular) transformer wiring. A regular transformer will have 2 wires for the primary, and two or more on the secondary. These transformers only have 3 connections, period....   But this has me puzzled. Since the minus primary connection is used for the secondary high voltage, how can the circuit work???? Ok, my point is this: The coil's minus terminal is connected to the ignition points. The points are making a ON-OFF surge repeatedly. (or creating an AC across the primary). So, how can the coil deliver a spark during the time the points are open, since the secondary is relying on the primary (-) to complete the circuit, which is also being switched on and off by the points. .   This still has me puzzled......   I did find the problem and get the tractor running though. There were actually two problems. The points had welded together, so I replaced them. But the spark was still weak which went back to the ignition resistor. That resistor is supposed to read about 8 volts on the output side, which feeds the coil. I was reading 4.5 volts, with the battery fully charged at around 13.5 volts. So I replaced that resistor as well. Works fine now....

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 11 12:43AM -0600 > during the time the points are open, since the secondary is relying on > the primary (-) to complete the circuit, which is also being switched on > and off by the points. .   Sigh. When you open the points,the magnetic field collapses which creates a HUGE spike, not related to the turns ratio. The "return" is through the primary back to the + terminal on the battery.   <https://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system3.htm>     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 11 11:03AM +0100 A large wire (primary) and a small one (secondary) are connected together to the ground. So it makes 3 connections. The turn ration can easily be about 70 100. The transformer is generally in an oil can so the isolate either termally and electrically. Take care, sparks are above 20,000 or 30,000V. For old engines, a capacitor was connected in // to the ruptor and it was this cap which was making such sparks. At low speed, the ruptor was actuated at about 25 Hz, so when ruptor was making OFF-ON-OFF, ther was only one spark duting the OFF-ON transition.

tubeguy@myshop.com: Feb 11 12:33AM -0600 Turning on any of my vintage shortwave radios always brings some CW or Morse Code. In the 60s I learned the basic of Morse Code but I never really learned all the dots and dashes. To me, it always seemed like a tedious and complicated means of communication.   I know in the early days of radio, it served a purpose, but these days it's pretty obsolete. I recently learned that getting a Ham License no longer requires Morse Code. Honestly I wanted to get a ham license in the 60s but never did because of the morse code requirement back then.   I also have heard that most of the morse code heard on shortwave radios these days is NOT created by hand pressing a key, but rather done with machines (I'm not sure how it's done).   Anyhow, I was wondering if there is any sort of software that will decode morse code and turn it into plain text? I assume one would need to input the radio signal into a computer, via microphone or using a direct cord to input. Then software would decode it and print the text on the screen.   Does such a thing exist?   One further thing. I have noticed that most CW heard on the air these days is so fast that few people could manually decode it. I guess that is all machine created code, which in my opinion, needs a machine to decode it too.....   NOTE: Morse Code is not to be confused with Horse Code, as seen on the Mr.Ed tv series, in which Mr Ed communicated using short and long whinnies in series.... :) (Mr Ed was the greatest).

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