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technowb <pietrarca@gmail.com>: Feb 12 01:41PM -0800 Hi, I have to replace (in a micorwave oven) a Panasonic magnetron 2M236-M62 which is no longer in production and it's difficult to find in my country. Some spare parts websites list Panasonic 2M236-M42 as an alternative model, but I am unable to find the datasheets to compare values.   Any advice on where to find those datasheets, or a minimum warranty that they are compatible?   Thank you

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 12 11:30PM +0100 See https://www.directrepair.fr/magnetron-2m236-m62-480120100525-whirlpool.html     technowb a écrit le 12/02/2019 à 22:41 :

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 12 03:05PM -0800 Well, you didn't mention WHAT country so...   I can tell you this. There are only a few types of magnetrons used in uWave ovens. If the mounting fits, 80%+ chance it works. The actual power is determined by the value of the cap and somewhat by the secondary of the transformer.   They can use a higher rated magnetron in a lower powered oven and they still save money by buying more of the same part. They save money on the transformer or the cap.   The mount has to REALLY match. Close is not good enough.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Feb 12 03:21PM -0800 Semi-related: Will a microwave last longer if lower power levels are used instead of full power all the time?   IE: Instead of heating something for the typical one minute at full power, heating it for two minutes at half power(or even medium high or 60% if such setting available)? That way the magnetron cycles on and off instead of running constantly, and also the food is more evenly heated.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 12 03:57PM -0800 > setting available)? That way the magnetron cycles > on and off instead of running constantly, and also > the food is more evenly heated.     In total hours, I get much more time on fluorescent tubes when they're on all the time. I have some that burn all the time for security reasons, and others that get turned off when my shop is closed. I get about the same amount of time before failure out of both.   I suspect magnetrons are the same way. For the less time they're actually accumulating during "low power" settings, they're also getting cycled. My guess is it will ultimately make little difference.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 12 08:07PM -0800 > I can tell you this. There are only a few types of magnetrons used in uWave ovens. If the mounting fits, 80%+ chance it works. The actual power is determined by the value of the cap and somewhat by the secondary of the transformer.   > They can use a higher rated magnetron in a lower powered oven and they still save money by buying more of the same part. They save money on the transformer or the cap.   > The mount has to REALLY match. Close is not good enough.   +1, in principle you can pretty much pick random ones & if they fit perfectly they are likely to work. However I've no idea what the legal requirements are in your unknown country.     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 12 08:10PM -0800 On Tuesday, 12 February 2019 23:57:22 UTC, John-Del wrote: > > the food is more evenly heated.   > In total hours, I get much more time on fluorescent tubes when they're on all the time. I have some that burn all the time for security reasons, and others that get turned off when my shop is closed. I get about the same amount of time before failure out of both.   > I suspect magnetrons are the same way. For the less time they're actually accumulating during "low power" settings, they're also getting cycled. My guess is it will ultimately make little difference.   Magnetrons generally fail from loss of emission. Fluoro tubes fail from that and from filament breakage, burnout, sputtering & loss of phosphor efficacy. And less common modes like loss of mercury vapour.     NT

Mike <ham789@netscape.net>: Feb 12 09:01PM -0800 > setting available)? That way the magnetron cycles > on and off instead of running constantly, and also > the food is more evenly heated.   It depends. On older microwave ovens, the filament runs off the transformer and cycles on and off with the high voltage. The thermal cycling can't be good for it.   Newer microwaves with the "inverter" technology switch the HV on and off much more rapidly leaving the filament hot. That's gotta be better for the magnetron, but has a lot more high voltage parts to fail.   Would be interesting to know how the cost of a new magnetron and the time to replace it compares to the cost of a new microwave oven.   It goes without assuming that you're sure the magnetron is at fault?

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 12 11:27PM -0600 On 2/12/19 11:01 PM, Mike wrote: > Would be interesting to know how the cost of a new magnetron > and the time to replace it compares to the cost of a new > microwave oven.   A new magnetron can vary from $40 (on sale) to $150.   I buy used microwaves at the Good Will and other thrift stores or garage sales. I have paid between $10 and $30 for a working one. I've never bought a new one.   The one I brought with me when I moved was a membrane control panel and it got stupid. The one upstairs was the classic "Turn the knob" type, the timer fell apart.   Both were replaced for under $40 total.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 13 10:49AM +0100 In old µwave, the weak point was the capacitor (High voltage one). The filament is too much large for dying.though is uses a large current (some A). A point to be checked is the cooling fan.   technowb a écrit le 12/02/2019 à 22:41 :

OGEE <XXX@NOWHERE.COM>: Feb 12 09:34AM -0800 Never had a serious problem with 9V batteries.   It is the AA and AAA DURACELL and KIRKLAND batteries that leak big time.   Still looking for reliable AA and AAA.   Talking about 9V batteries is not helping !     --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

OGEE <XXX@NOWHERE.COM>: Feb 12 09:39AM -0800 Want less expensive but reliable 9V, AA and AAA batteries.   Cannot use so called "9V" Li batteries.   In some cases where it will work (physical fit-wise), I use a AA battery pack carrier with the 9V snaps and get very long life battery usage.     --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 12 11:30AM -0800 OK - I will state the obvious again.   a) ALL batteries leak to some extent. Irrespective of brand or use. b) What is important is what are the options WHEN (not IF) they leak. c) A manufacturer which will stand behind their product and make the user whole is very nearly infinitely better than one that will not. d) Let that distinction be the driver of whatever brand is chosen.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

<698839253X6D445TD@nospam.org>: Feb 12 07:54PM On a sunny day (Tue, 12 Feb 2019 09:34:22 -0800) it happened OGEE   >Never had a serious problem with 9V batteries.   >It is the AA and AAA DURACELL and KIRKLAND batteries that leak big time.   Same here, duracell leaked and destroyed my bike light, never used KIRKLAND.   >Still looking for reliable AA and AAA.   I use Eneloop. No self-discharge. Even in this mouse... eneloop AA.   Where I need 2 AAA I use 3V lifepo4 AAA and a dummy (short) AAA battery, or 3V liion and short the other one.   The lifepo4 AAA already held out for more than a year in a wireless keyboard. Those do not catch fire, but be careful with 3V liion, when full it is a bit more volts than 2 x 1.5 (4.2 max), and those CAN catch fire. If the app has a bit bad caps....

"malua mada!" <fritzo2ster@gmail.com>: Feb 12 02:18PM -0800 On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 9:58:01 PM UTC-8, Mike wrote:   > battery management shut it down. Balanced the cells and now it has been > working fine since.   > I didn't buy the charger. I just charged 'em at low current to 8.2V.   I just had a 9v EBL commit suicide in an old Fluke thermometer that has no low power shutoff. zero volts battery now at the terminals.   Took the battery apart. Both 702335 cells have >3.2 VDC and are wired in series... how would you "balance" that? Positive side is connected straight to the connector. Negative side I can follow to an 8pin IC at pins (2,3) whereas opposite pins (6,7) are connected to where the power needs to go. A wee little jumper perhaps? The IC has no markings I can see... don't even know where number one pin is. Measured ohms between the input and output pins and wouldn't you know it now it decides to conduct and I get voltage at the battery terminals. Darn. THe question was going to be: how stupid / dangerous would installing a jumper be?   Thanks anyways Fritz believer in fixing by posting questions

Mike <ham789@netscape.net>: Feb 12 03:21PM -0800 On 2/12/2019 2:18 PM, malua mada! wrote: > The IC has no markings I can see... don't even know where number one pin is. > Measured ohms between the input and output pins and wouldn't you know it now it decides to conduct and I get voltage at the battery terminals. Darn. > THe question was going to be: how stupid / dangerous would installing a jumper be? The voltage measured zero because the BMS shut it off. The ohm meter put enough volts on the BMS to get it to turn back on for charging.   I can't think of any place a jumper will be useful. Don't even think about shorting the BMS chip. The cells are protected against under/over voltage. You need all that. My limited experience with this battery is that it shuts off charge when either cell reaches 4.2V. I prefer to quit before that, around 4-4.1V/cell   Cells are probably matched, but still have significant differences at very low voltages below the BMS cutoff. It's easy to get some imbalance down there. I'd charge it up to 3.8V/cell or so and then check balance and correct if necessary before proceeding with a full charge.   > Thanks anyways > Fritz > believer in fixing by posting questions   This is what's inside mine.   https://imgur.com/pAjauT7   I poked a tiny hole in the side of the package so I could poke a probe in and access the point where two batteries connect in series. If I ever need it again, I can use that and the two 9V terminals to charge each cell individually to 4V. I'm hoping that the battery will shutdown output at a voltage higher than the voltage that prevents charging. Not had to test that yet.   Maintaining balance is a proactive activity. It's been three years. Probably should open up all the meters and recharge 'em.

"malua mada!" <fritzo2ster@gmail.com>: Feb 12 07:26PM -0800 On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 3:21:32 PM UTC-8, Mike wrote:     > I can't think of any place a jumper will be useful. > Don't even think about shorting the BMS chip.   blush... isn't a bare metal battery better than a dead one?   > My limited experience with this battery is that it shuts off charge > when either cell reaches 4.2V. > I prefer to quit before that, around 4-4.1V/cell   I have a little 9V charger, blissfully ignorant of balancing acts.     > https://imgur.com/pAjauT7   > I poked a tiny hole in the side of the package so I could poke a probe in > and access the point where two batteries connect in series.   Mine looks the same. I totally missed the tap to the series connection there.   > battery will shutdown output at a voltage higher than the voltage > that prevents charging. Not had to test that yet.   > Maintaining balance is a proactive activity. (swaying precariously) tisn't what happy consumers sposed to have to do?   > It's been three years. Probably should open up all the meters > and recharge 'em.   amen! and get rid of the devices that just stay on to the last millivolt. Meanwhile, I appreciate the knowledge that allows me to wake these (still costly) batteries from their self induced coma... wish it were easier.

Mike <ham789@netscape.net>: Feb 12 08:53PM -0800 On 2/12/2019 7:26 PM, malua mada! wrote:   >> I can't think of any place a jumper will be useful. >> Don't even think about shorting the BMS chip.   > blush... isn't a bare metal battery better than a dead one?   No, it isn't. Lithium batteries need a lot of care. >> when either cell reaches 4.2V. >> I prefer to quit before that, around 4-4.1V/cell   > I have a little 9V charger, blissfully ignorant of balancing acts. "Little charger" is too vague to be helpful. If it's a little charger designed to charge these EBL batteries, you're good to go. If it ain't, don't use it.   The battery protection circuit seems to be reasonably good at shutting off the charge at 8.4V, but that's the protection circuit, not normal operation. >> that prevents charging. Not had to test that yet.   >> Maintaining balance is a proactive activity. > (swaying precariously) tisn't what happy consumers sposed to have to do? No, it's not. But that's the price we pay for the other benefits of the technology. If you keep the battery voltage within the shutdown limits, I expect it works pretty well. It's when you go beyond the safe limits that cell differences start to manifest more visibly as imbalance. >> and recharge 'em.   > amen! and get rid of the devices that just stay on to the last millivolt. > Meanwhile, I appreciate the knowledge that allows me to wake these (still costly) batteries from their self induced coma... wish it were easier.   It's not rocket science. Set your bench supply to 4.0V. Put a 1K resistor in series with it and charge one cell at a time. When the voltage across the resistor gets to about zero, do the other one. I typically let the battery sit for a day after and check the balance again. Tweak it till they're within a few millivolts after a rest. That's overkill, but why not...   Note that I did NOT say take any random usb 5V charger and use it. MUST stay below 4.2V. If you don't have a way to generate 4ish volts, throw the batteries away.

"malua mada!" <fritzo2ster@gmail.com>: Feb 12 10:12PM -0800 On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 8:53:54 PM UTC-8, Mike wrote: > "Little charger" is too vague to be helpful. > If it's a little charger designed to charge these EBL batteries, > you're good to go. If it ain't, don't use it.   bonai 9V 80 mA (x1) 50 mA (x2) charger. brought the patient up to 7.68 volts. which is what one has to accept for 9V these days? or anyhow below 8.4V from what you write.         > Note that I did NOT say take any random usb 5V charger and use it. > MUST stay below 4.2V. > If you don't have a way to generate 4ish volts, throw the batteries away.   nah there's a LM317 waiting to be tickled...   BTW I used anvil type pruning shears to open the battery case. Good force, good control.

ggherold@gmail.com: Feb 12 05:34PM -0800 > 3 of 5 controls were free. Bass & Selector-switch still frozen, hard. > Apply Kroil. 12 hours. Re-apply Kroil.   > All shafts are free. I've got a jar of Kroil from my neighbor. I read somewhere about ATF* plus acetone and a third thing.. ethyl alcohol? that was 'better' for unsticking nuts and bolts. I never tried it.   George H. *Automatic Transmission Fluid

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 12 08:07PM -0600 > I never tried it.   > George H. > *Automatic Transmission Fluid   Actually, it's a little better than Kroil. <http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/212342.jpg> But, to me, it's not worth my time fucking around playing "Junior Chemist" When I can just buy something that works. Works well, and works repeatedly well.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 12 07:54PM -0800 On Tue, 12 Feb 2019 20:07:39 -0600, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >But, to me, it's not worth my time fucking around >playing "Junior Chemist" When I can just buy something >that works. Works well, and works repeatedly well.   That depends on how its tested and who's doing the testing: "Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs>   [Spoiler] See graph at: <https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs?t=516> Best Heat (using a torch) Liquid Wrench Acetone/ATF Royal Purple WD-40 PB Blaster Aero Kroll Dry Worst.   The problem with these results is that most of the penetrating oils seem not much better than torquing an unlubricated rusty bolt. To me, that looks like something might be wrong with the proceedure or application method.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 12 10:24PM -0600 On 2/12/19 9:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > That depends on how its tested and who's doing the testing: > "Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!" > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs>   I've seen this before, I serious question his results.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 13 08:19AM +1100 On 12/2/19 8:56 pm, Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > 8, 10, and 12-way required. I'd be happy with either crimps/housings or > IDC headers.   > Can anyone identify the make and series, and supplier(UK).   I think laptop disk drives used that size before they went to SATA. I once hand-wired a CompactFlash to IDE laptop adapter with ribbon cable. That probably doesn't help though.

Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Feb 12 12:03PM -0600 >tuning or the sound I just know the caps must be getting ready to >fail. They are just so small. >Eric When you finally have a failure, I would replace all Sanyo brand capacitors.

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