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OGEE <XMARKSTHESPOT@NOWHERE.COM>: Feb 11 09:44AM -0800 Looking for less expensive 9v alkaline battery.   Please suggest best brands.   I usually buy eight or so at a time.   Forget Duracell as I have given up on Duracell and Kirkland, THEY LEAK !!! Even just sitting in their original packaging many years before their use by date. These have ruined many devices. And NO I am not spending all my time removing and inserting batteries in all my devices.   I have totally dropped Duracell and Kirkland for all my AA and AAA needs. Duracell and Kirkland have Junk battery seals. I have years of experience using these batteries hoping they would fix the seals, but no they just keep destroying my devices.   Amazon sells many brands but there is unfortunately no durability comparison this or other products.   --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 11 10:04AM -0800 On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 12:44:28 PM UTC-5, OGEE wrote: > Looking for less expensive 9v alkaline battery.   > Please suggest best brands.   The best brands are those that guarantee both their products and the devices they go into.   I once had a Civil-Defense surplus Geiger counter that I purchased for $10 at a surplus auction. It took two (2) D-size batteries, which I duly inserted. My wife collected Fiesta-Ware at the time, and those pieces that were radioactive would not be used for food purposes. Most of the time, the thing sat in a closet, until one day I took it out and checked it - to find out that the two Eveready Alkaline batteries had leaked all over the innards.   Off it went to Eveready. Ten (10) days later, I received a check for $368.97 + the original postage, and a polite note stating that the cost offered was the original contract price to The Civil Defense people in 1963, and the postage - along with the admonition that I should not leave batteries in valuable idle equipment. Point taken.   Some time later, a 4-cell Maglite with Duracell batteries went off to Duracell. Took a bit longer, two (2) weeks. Back comes a new Maglite, and the old one fully cleaned and operating, together with fresh batteries.   Do you think that we will ever use anything other than these brands?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Feb 11 10:05AM -0800 On 02/11/2019 09:44 AM, OGEE wrote: > !!! Even just sitting in their original packaging many years before > their use by date. These have ruined many devices. And NO I am not > spending all my time removing and inserting batteries in all my devices.   I was shocked to see the Kirkland leakage. I thought Costco chose better.   > no they just keep destroying my devices.   > Amazon sells many brands but there is unfortunately no durability > comparison this or other products.   You might want to skip Maxell too -- every single one I've used has leaked, including when it was still in the package.   I also bought some of the Duracell 'Eneloop-like' batteries, which do NOT hold a charge for almost a year like they're supposed to; maybe a few weeks or months -- I use my camera infrequently now so I can't be accurate.   -- Cheers, Bev Subscribe today to "Fire in the Hole - the Quarterly Journal for Incinerator Toilet Enthusiasts" -- Andrew

Mike <ham789@netscape.net>: Feb 11 02:06PM -0800 On 2/11/2019 9:44 AM, OGEE wrote:   > Amazon sells many brands but there is unfortunately no durability > comparison this or other products.   > --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---   Depends on your application. 3 years ago I switched to EBL rechargeable lithium 9V batteries. I use 'em in low drain devices like multimeters. Haven't had to charge any of 'em yet. They're rated at 600mAh, but I don't have any experience with high drain usage. Downside is that your device has to work down to 7V or so. More expensive initially, but can have lower cost over the long haul.   Back in the day, I tried rechargeable 7.2V NiCds. Mostly useless. The 8.4V 7-cell NiMH were better, but self discharge was an issue.

Robert Baer <robertbaer@localnet.com>: Feb 11 04:35PM -0800 OGEE wrote:   > Amazon sells many brands but there is unfortunately no durability > comparison this or other products.   > --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net --- Try Dollar Tree, fifty cents each. For best battery results, ANY brand, store in refrigerator crisper. Like new 1 yr later..

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 11 05:34PM -0800 >More expensive initially, but can have lower cost over the long haul.   >Back in the day, I tried rechargeable 7.2V NiCds. Mostly useless. >The 8.4V 7-cell NiMH were better, but self discharge was an issue.   I did exactly the same thing. Most of mine live in small instruments, digital clocks, and portable radios now use EBL 9V LiIon batteries. However, I have seen a few problems: 1. Some bulge when recharged. If there's expansion room in the battery compartment, no problem. Otherwise, it might jam the battery in the battery compartment. 2. I bought 10 of these batteries for about $40. <https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBL-Lot-of-600mAh-9V-Volt-6F22-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Batteries-High-Volume-1-20pcs/273615893492> I've only used 6 of these so far. 1 has failed the first time I tried to charge it. The other 5 have survived about 3 recharges each without incident. Reliability and quality seem to be an issue with EBL batteries: <https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Rechargeable-Batteries-Lithium-4-Packs/dp/B00EJKIDHE/#customerReviews> 3. Discharge test shows a bit low at 550 ma-hrs. 4. One of my cheap DVM's (Harbor Freight) quits before the battery hits minimum voltage (about 6.8V).   EBL seems to be the least disgusting of the various 9V LiIon batteries: "#45 - 9V Li-ion batteries: capacity testing" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9A06SPUF8i8>   The good news is that I no longer trash instruments and equipment with leaky alkaline batteries: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/Kirkland-AAA-leak.jpg>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Mike <ham789@netscape.net>: Feb 11 09:57PM -0800 On 2/11/2019 5:34 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > to charge it. The other 5 have survived about 3 recharges each > without incident. Reliability and quality seem to be an issue with > EBL batteries:   I did have a problem with the first two I bought. EBL sent me two more, no questions asked. No problem with those.   I took the bad one apart. Turned out to be a balance problem and the battery management shut it down. Balanced the cells and now it has been working fine since.   I didn't buy the charger. I just charged 'em at low current to 8.2V.

Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Feb 11 11:04AM -0600 >I doubt any modern caps will last even close to the life span of the old >ones, but which brands are the best? (Particularly the ones used for >high voltages in tube gear).   Panasonic and Nichicon.

etpm@whidbey.com: Feb 11 10:05AM -0800 >I doubt any modern caps will last even close to the life span of the old >ones, but which brands are the best? (Particularly the ones used for >high voltages in tube gear).   Yeah, I totally agree with you. The new smaller modern caps just can't last. A perfect example. My Pioneer SX-434 is only 46 years old and the shitty small caps in it must be getting ready to fail. Even though I listen to it every day and though there is no degradation in the tuning or the sound I just know the caps must be getting ready to fail. They are just so small. Eric

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 11 01:32PM -0500 In article <uMGdnZXH7K4CBPzBnZ2dnUU7-XOdnZ2d@giganews.com>, jdangus@att.net says...   > That wasn't because of modern capacitors. > That was because the bean counters at Dell went with > cheap counterfeit caps that were shit.   The origional post was about which brands were the best.   That is why I said not all modern capacitors would last. I am sure there are lots of crap China brands of capacitors. I probably bought some a few months back, but they go in my hobby electronics.   The boards I sent back were not Dell. They were some boards from a company that sold computer boards and parts that I put together a computer. The boards were high rated before the capacitor problem. I think lots of companies had the cpacitor problem from that particular capacitor company.   One of the main things is that the switching supplies or high temperature are the main killers of the capacitors.   Any of the good brand capacitors should last longer than most of us will be around.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 11 11:19AM -0800 On Monday, 11 February 2019 15:43:50 UTC, Ralph Mowery wrote: > equipment and have worked for the last 3 months. They may or may not go > out today. I would not put them in equipment that I was repairing for > anyone for money, but this isfor my hobby work.   I don't think you're understanding why they died.     NT

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 11 03:50PM -0800 On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 12:04:17 PM UTC-5, Chuck wrote: > >ones, but which brands are the best? (Particularly the ones used for > >high voltages in tube gear).   > Panasonic and Nichicon.       When I build (or rebuild) something for myself, I always go with Panasonic capacitors.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 11 11:26PM -0500 In article <0a7d888b-9f93-401d-abfe-271b8cc6fc34@googlegroups.com>, tabbypurr@gmail.com says... > > out today. I would not put them in equipment that I was repairing for > > anyone for money, but this isfor my hobby work.   > I don't think you're understanding why they died.   I think I have a fair understanding of why capacitors die.   The could be made out of crap materials like the ones on the computer boards.   The switching power supplies really stress capacitors and they need to have a low ESR.     Heat will be bad for them. Some are rated around 85 and some are rated over 100 deg C.   The voltage ratings should be in the correct range. If they sit around a long time some will need to be reformed to meet the voltage requirement. Some of the capcitors are formed at a higher voltage than they are rated for to insure that as they age on the shelf they will still meet the rated specifications when used year or more later.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 11 09:15AM -0800 On Mon, 11 Feb 2019 07:56:20 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com" >https://www.quadhands.com/products/quadhands-flex >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   Too crude. Instead, I suggest a robot arm: <https://www.google.com/search?q=robot+arm&tbm=isch> Some look affordable: <https://www.robotshop.com/en/arduino-braccio-robotic-arm.htm>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Feb 11 07:04PM > example, I am soldering something, and need one hand to hold the item, a > second hand for the soldering iron, and a third hand to hold the solder. > Hmmmmmm, this is a problem!!!!   heh... Over the many, Many, MANY years I've futzed around in/with electronics, I've learn to hold solder in my mouth and carefully feed it into the joint. Only exhale during the process -- no inhale. No blood test has ever shown a bad outcome. :-)   Jonesy -- Marvin L Jones | Marvin | W3DHJ.net | linux 38.238N 104.547W | @ jonz.net | Jonesy | FreeBSD * Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 11 11:19AM -0800 On 2019/02/11 9:15 a.m., Jeff Liebermann wrote: > <https://www.google.com/search?q=robot+arm&tbm=isch> > Some look affordable: > <https://www.robotshop.com/en/arduino-braccio-robotic-arm.htm>   Hmm, voice control would be a fun option... "Siri, pass me the soldering iron please?"   Your link didn't work for me so I tried this:   https://www.robotshop.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=arduino+braccio+robotic+arm&order=relevance&dir=desc   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Feb 11 11:40AM -0800 If you want a premium-priced version   https://www.elektor.com/hobby-creek-third-hand-v2

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 11 01:53PM -0600 > If you want a premium-priced version   > https://www.elektor.com/hobby-creek-third-hand-v2   $70 for some alligator clips. Sheesh.   I just flip the PC board face down, hold it with my left middle finger, and use my thumb and index finger to feed the solder.   The only time I really HAVE to hold something is soldering wires to connectors, and THAT is where having a PanaVise comes in handy.   I have one of those alligator clip things. They are next to useless for holding anything properly and stable. Its like chasing a blob of mercury around.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 11 07:55PM In article <rqSdnUF4HLBJV_zBnZ2dnUU7-c-dnZ2d@giganews.com>, spam@flippers.com says...   > Hmm, voice control would be a fun option... "Siri, pass me the > soldering iron please?"   "No, the other end..."   Mike.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 11 01:26PM -0800 On 2019/02/11 11:55 a.m., Mike Coon wrote: >> soldering iron please?"   > "No, the other end..."   > Mike.   It would depend if you are being polite or not...if you don't say 'please' you get the warm pointy end.   John :-#)#

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 11 05:57PM -0800 On Mon, 11 Feb 2019 11:19:47 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >Hmm, voice control would be a fun option... "Siri, pass me the soldering >iron please?"   An acquaintance has Parkinson's. His hands shake rather badly. Someone built him a pair of robot arms for manipulating things. The input devices are two large joysticks and some big buttons. The computer is programmed to ignore high frequency shaking and sudden moves, and only respond to low frequency, slow movements, which removes most of the shaking. I found it rather tricky to use, but suspect that I could learn with a little practice.   I think you'll find that the joystick or virtual reality glove are better ways to do this. As I recall, it's called a "Waldo". <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remote_manipulator> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waldo_(short_story)> The modern Waldo is the Da Vinci robotic surgery machine: <https://www.google.com/search?q=da+Vinci+Surgical+System&tbm=isch>   >Your link didn't work for me so I tried this: >https://www.robotshop.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=arduino+braccio+robotic+arm&order=relevance&dir=desc   Oops and thanks. The link worked on my home machine but now that I'm in my palatial office, it doesn't. Magic, I guess.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

<Use-Author-Supplied-Address-Header@[127.1]>: Feb 11 07:32PM Dear All, I am looking for a source of replacement single pin panel mount sockets for repairs to some of these elderly NIM crates I have. The sockets provide a FP source of the rail voltages the PSU produces on its module back-plane connectors and can be seen here (presumed the same),   https://www.ortec-online.com/products/electronics/power-supplies-and-nuclear-instrument-module-nim-bins/4001a-and-4001c   in the BR of the picture (7-off, colour white) on a more recent crate model. They mate with a 1mm dia. pin plug, are secured by a nut on the back of the panel and have a cut-out hole of ~4.8mm dia..   I could not find any part numbers in the manuals/documentation on https://www.qsl.net/k/k0ff/0 18Manuals/NIM Manuals/NIM/ORTEC for these sockets. They are just referred to as "test jacks".   The closest I could find was https://uk.farnell.com/staubli/23-1010-21/socket-1mm-black/dp/1225209 but that has a panel cut-out of only 2.7mm. I'm stumped. Any ideas?   Thanks Tom Crane   Ps. The email address in the header is just a spam-trap. -- Tom Crane, Dept. Physics, Royal Holloway, University of London, Egham Hill, Egham, Surrey, TW20 0EX, England. Email: T dot Crane at rhul dot ac dot uk

KenW <kenw@nono.net>: Feb 11 11:32AM -0700 On Mon, 11 Feb 2019 09:49:49 -0600, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:     >That wasn't because of modern capacitors. >That was because the bean counters at Dell went with >cheap counterfeit caps that were shit.   +1     KenW

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 11 09:42AM -0800 On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 11:09:38 AM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > > 3 of 5 controls were free. Bass & Selector-switch still frozen, hard. > > Apply Kroil. 12 hours. Re-apply Kroil.   > Which is why I use Kroil and don't waste my time on other products.   Jeff:   Using Kroil as cleaner/rinse would be wildly expensive! And of all the Dynaco products, the SCA 35 and ST 35 are amongst the lease amenable to going through a dishwasher. Between the cloth-lead transformers with open bells and fish-paper insulation and other issues, the risk is just too great - or that would have been my first choice in this case.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 11 12:00PM -0600 > fish-paper insulation and other issues, the risk is just > too great - or that would have been my first choice in > this case.   I suggested nothing of the sort. You mentioned stuck controls. Kroil worked on the two that did not respond to the alternative "un stickers."   Hence my comment about why I use Kroil without wasting my time using inferior products.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

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