Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 10 updates in 3 topics

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 03 04:02PM

In article <d27dd512-aa0e-41a7-90da-8256ee95c61a@googlegroups.com>,
tschw10117@aol.com says...
 
> No, read his posts, and those from his alter-ego, oldstuff....... He's *that* stupid.
 
> > He could get a powerful pocket calculator for peanuts! I can't believe
> > anyone can be *that* stupid, TBH. He's having a laugh at your expense.
 
I'm not so sure. Back when GPS were new and there was an active GPS
forum, lots of people wanted help with how to convert degrees to
degrees+minutes. (Despite the USA still liking feet and inches and UK
not much better.)
 
Mike.
arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Feb 02 08:15PM

The glass-plastic-sandwich screen cracked on one mobile phone so I removed
my screen and put it on the other mobile phone (we both have the same LG
Stylo 3 plus).
 
It keeps falling off as the original sticky glue on the top and bottom
edges doesn't have enough remaining.
 
I do _not_ want to cover the original glass in liquid uv-cured glue, which
is what is likely the best from a refractive-index standpoint.
 
I just want temporary stick glue like that which came with the original
glass/plastic sandwich glass.
 
I went to both Home Depot & Lowes, neither of whom had anything that they
thought would work to solve the problem. I even tried Fixodent, which
worked perfectly but only for a few days.
 
What temporary sticky glue would you suggest that I can get at a local
hardware store like Ace, Home Depot, Hardware Freight, etc.?
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 02 12:49PM -0800

On Saturday, February 2, 2019 at 3:15:04 PM UTC-5, arlen holder wrote:
> worked perfectly but only for a few days.
 
> What temporary sticky glue would you suggest that I can get at a local
> hardware store like Ace, Home Depot, Hardware Freight, etc.?
 
 
 
That adhesive was likely developed just for that purpose. If you must know, Contact 3M. There's no company IMO that knows more about adhesives than them.
 
Other than that, why not just buy a new protective screen? They're like 3 bucks shipped and come with the adhesive already applied.
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 02 04:28PM -0600

On 2/2/19 2:49 PM, John-Del wrote:
> Other than that, why not just buy a new protective screen?
> They're like 3 bucks shipped and come with the adhesive
> already applied.
 
Because sci.electronics.repair is all about doing it the hard way.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 02 05:50PM -0800

On Sat, 2 Feb 2019 20:15:01 -0000 (UTC), arlen holder
 
>The glass-plastic-sandwich screen cracked on one mobile phone so I removed
>my screen and put it on the other mobile phone (we both have the same LG
>Stylo 3 plus).
 
Try the process used to seal cracks in automotive windshields:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=automotive+windshield+crack+repair>
I have no clue which product is best:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bf5sY6FxPHc>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM3hSYbD0-Y>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2ZwXzZ4ZDs>
etc...
 
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 02 05:58PM -0800

On Sat, 2 Feb 2019 16:28:56 -0600, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>
wrote:
 
>> They're like 3 bucks shipped and come with the adhesive
>> already applied.
 
>Because sci.electronics.repair is all about doing it the hard way.
 
Welcome to the sci.electronics.repair.philosophy newsgroup.
 
If it were easy, it would not be fun or interesting. It would also
not require a newsgroup full of "experts" to explain how things should
be done. Sometimes, the hard way is the best way while the easy way
is an invitation to future problems.
 
Also, there is no single right answer for fixing anything. There are
always two or more ways to do anything. All a right, although some
are more right than others.
 
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/repair/slides/Iphone4-cracked-screen-01.html>
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Feb 03 02:52PM

On Sat, 02 Feb 2019 17:58:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
> If it were easy, it would not be fun or interesting. It would also
> not require a newsgroup full of "experts" to explain how things should
> be done.
 
Hi Jeff,
 
As you ascertain, the point of the question is to _learn_ about the type of
glue that has the following qualities - which can be used elsewhere in
sceitneific repair...
 
1. It's 'temporary' (but firm enough to stay in place);
2. It's 'sticky' (more than the Fixodent was, but far less than epoxy is);
3. It's 'viscous' (it can't _flow_ because it will cover 4 small top ports)
4. And, it adheres to glass.
 
Hence, for example, all _permanent_ solutions (e.g., cyanoacrylate) fail.
The Fixodent failed only because it wasn't rigid enough (i.e., not sticky).
 
Note this glue does _not_ need to have anywhere near the refractive index
of glass because the LG Stylo 3 Plus has a black 1.2 centimeter frame on
both top and bottom.
 
That means there's plenty of room for a "viscous" sticky temporary glue.
The only question,. from a chemistry standpoint, is which glue is that?
 
NOTE: I saw your other post, where I haven't delved into examining the
links yet, where again, matching the refractive index of glass isn't the
issue here as it might be with most screen reflector glues.
arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Feb 03 03:17PM

On Sat, 2 Feb 2019 12:49:23 -0800 (PST), John-Del wrote:
 
> Other than that, why not just buy a new protective screen?
> They're like 3 bucks shipped and come with the adhesive already applied.
 
Learning about the type of glue is what this question is mostly about;
although the final repair is a secondary goal (as is the ability to repair
in the future, using the knowledge learned about the type of glue).
 
Given that...
 
There are two issues here, each of which is completely different:
1. This question is about where to obtain a specific type of "glue"
2. You seem to have fantastic sources that I am not privy to (yet).
 
To clarify those two completely disjoint observations...
1. Why even have a "repair" group, if all you do is "replace"?
2. You must have far better sources than Amazon given the price you quoted.
 
For the types of glue, I'll defer a response until I can go through Jeff's
purposefully helpful response in detail (with respect to chemistry).
 
The _best_ I can find on Amazon, sorted by lowest price, is:
<https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank?keywords=protective+screen+lg+stylo+3+plus&sort=price-asc-rank>
 
The cheapest, is more than twice what you quoted, although I'm sure, in
bulk, we can find cheaper (but I only need one, or maybe two, for now).
 
I simply ask where & how you found the protectors for 3 bucks shipped?
Martin Gregorie <martin@mydomain.invalid>: Feb 03 03:35PM

On Sun, 03 Feb 2019 14:52:11 +0000, arlen holder wrote:
 
> frame on both top and bottom.
 
> That means there's plenty of room for a "viscous" sticky temporary glue.
> The only question,. from a chemistry standpoint, is which glue is that?
 
You have a 12 mm wide area to adhere the spread sticky stuff on, so have
you tried using double-sided sticky tape?
 
I'm suggesting the thin, transparent types that look like sellotape, not
the thicker foam tapes. These tapes come in 6mm and 12mm widths and can
be peeled off, though with some difficulty if you use the stronger
bonding types.
 
FWIW I use the latter to attach Mylar seals over the aileron gaps on
gliders. One strip of 15mm wide tape on the wing in front of the hinge
will keep the Mylar firmly attached for several years if its rolled down
well and its leading edge has a strip of gap tape over it to keep dust
and moisture from penetrating under the mylar, yet isn't too difficult to
get off and replace when it starts to loose its grip.
 
 
--
Martin | martin at
Gregorie | gregorie dot org
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Feb 02 11:57PM -0500


>In real life I have never used any resistor with that high of a
>capacity, I dont even know if they are made, but would 1G or 22G be
>valid for the examples above?
 
There may be a safety requirement to discharge across a safety
barrier, without affecting normal leakage, for static discharge.
 
RL
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