Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 18 updates in 3 topics

8:41 AM Penedão
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 01 08:03AM -0800

As there is a strong international presence here, I will ask for some suggestions:
 
My wife and I will be traveling to Kenya in May, and we (more she than I) would like to be able to charge our phones and tablets while there. I am looking for a compact device that can be charged from the wall (240VAC, 50 HZ) (we will be in 4 and 5-star resorts) yet will also include a battery for those times we are traveling without said wall.
 
Thanks in advance!
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Mar 01 07:09AM

On Sun, 03 Feb 2019 19:58:10 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
> together. Probably the one with the thinnest backing. However, you
> want a temporary bond, which makes the high strength characteristics a
> rather bad idea.
 
Hi Jeff,
 
I forgot to update this "wringability" thread, for which I apologize since
I always solve the problem and I always update the thread so that others
may benefit from the tribal knowledge of the solution employed.
 
As you may recall, this was the starting point on the LG Stylo 3 Plus:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9589436plateglue01.jpg>
where the goal was to enable wringing by finding an ultrathin non-permanent
replacement glue/cement that was rubbery and not liquid (as that could
easily clog openings) and that was so thin as to allow the "wringability"
features of two extremely smooth mutually flat surfaces to enable the glass
plates to stick together like gage blocks, due to:
a. Air pressure
b. Surface tension
c. Electron interchange
 
In this situation, I found this pack of 300 "glue dots" for a few bucks.
<https://i.postimg.cc/BnhcdQmp/screen01.jpg>
 
They were labeled "ultra thin" at 3/8" diameter (10mm) circles.
UPC: 6 34524 04029 9 (GlueDots.com, 888-458-3368)
 
They come on a strip about an inch apart where they're sticky on both sides
of the dot which you place onto the glass protective screen as needed.
<https://i.postimg.cc/t4gFtG9x/screen02.jpg>
 
They're the consistency of a "flat gel" in that they easily crumple up into
goop if you're not careful in your placement technique:
<https://i.postimg.cc/Vk5b09F9/screen03.jpg>
 
The trick is mostly in the technique of placing the dots which I can barely
see with my 80-year-old eyes so I ended up cutting the paper backing so
that I could at least tell where the edge of the glue discs was:
<https://i.postimg.cc/qRHtFPHQ/screen04.jpg>
 
Another trick was to _leave_ the paper backing in place until the very end,
which I didn't do on the first attempt, but then I did on the second try:
<https://i.postimg.cc/SxXJxSyD/screen05.jpg>
 
Yet another trick was to flip the glass sandwich plate the other way so
that the tape, instead of being face down, was face up, which was the
BETTER way to do it (which was only learned by trial & error):
<https://i.postimg.cc/VsD69rvK/screen06.jpg>
 
The end result is that the thin glass sandwich has been working great for
weeks now, so I must very much THANK YOU for being one of the few people on
this group who understood the problem set, and who outlined a simple repair
plan that worked beautifully - and - the best part is that there are
hundreds of glue dots left to repair OTHER things similarly.
 
Thanks for your expert help & advice to solve this specific repair problem,
which you could do because you actually comprehended the problem set.
arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Mar 01 07:09AM

On Sun, 03 Feb 2019 19:58:10 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
> together. Probably the one with the thinnest backing. However, you
> want a temporary bond, which makes the high strength characteristics a
> rather bad idea.
 
Hi Jeff,
 
I forgot to update this "wringability" thread, for which I apologize since
I always solve the problem and I always update the thread so that others
may benefit from the tribal knowledge of the solution employed.
 
As you may recall, this was the starting point on the LG Stylo 3 Plus:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9589436plateglue01.jpg>
where the goal was to enable wringing by finding an ultrathin non-permanent
replacement glue/cement that was rubbery and not liquid (as that could
easily clog openings) and that was so thin as to allow the "wringability"
features of two extremely smooth mutually flat surfaces to enable the glass
plates to stick together like gage blocks, due to:
a. Air pressure
b. Surface tension
c. Electron interchange
 
In this situation, I found this pack of 300 "glue dots" for a few bucks.
<https://i.postimg.cc/BnhcdQmp/screen01.jpg>
 
They were labeled "ultra thin" at 3/8" diameter (10mm) circles.
UPC: 6 34524 04029 9 (GlueDots.com, 888-458-3368)
 
They come on a strip about an inch apart where they're sticky on both sides
of the dot which you place onto the glass protective screen as needed.
<https://i.postimg.cc/t4gFtG9x/screen02.jpg>
 
They're the consistency of a "flat gel" in that they easily crumple up into
goop if you're not careful in your placement technique:
<https://i.postimg.cc/Vk5b09F9/screen03.jpg>
 
The trick is mostly in the technique of placing the dots which I can barely
see with my 80-year-old eyes so I ended up cutting the paper backing so
that I could at least tell where the edge of the glue discs was:
<https://i.postimg.cc/qRHtFPHQ/screen04.jpg>
 
Another trick was to _leave_ the paper backing in place until the very end,
which I didn't do on the first attempt, but then I did on the second try:
<https://i.postimg.cc/SxXJxSyD/screen05.jpg>
 
Yet another trick was to flip the glass sandwich plate the other way so
that the tape, instead of being face down, was face up, which was the
BETTER way to do it (which was only learned by trial & error):
<https://i.postimg.cc/VsD69rvK/screen06.jpg>
 
The end result is that the thin glass sandwich has been working great for
weeks now, so I must very much THANK YOU for being one of the few people on
this group who understood the problem set, and who outlined a simple repair
plan that worked beautifully - and - the best part is that there are
hundreds of glue dots left to repair OTHER things similarly.
 
Thanks for your expert help & advice to solve this specific repair problem,
which you could do because you actually comprehended the problem set.
Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Feb 28 03:27PM

On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 04:33:56 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"
 
>However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.
 
>Peter Wieck
>Melrose Park, PA
 
I worked in a TV factory when I was young. When a batch of components
arrived from the supplier I had the job of testing potentiometers. It
took hours to get through a pack of 100. The track lubricant used by
the manufacturer was a dense fat. I've no idea what it was called but
it looked like a dense petroleum jelly. Any attempt to clean the track
ruined the lubrication. The test was just to make sure the wiper moved
smoothly before assembly continued. A component replacement cost time
and time cost money!
 
Steve
 
--
http://www.npsnn.com
Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Mar 01 07:53AM +1100

On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
 
>> ....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?
 
>I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.
 
>Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For Shits & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without pissing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.
 
I have a built-in cassette player in my 1998 car.
The player froze up long ago and given all the
advice here it may be possible to resurrect it. Do
these devices have rubber pulleys?
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 28 01:33PM -0800

On 2019/02/28 12:53 p.m., Peter Jason wrote:
> The player froze up long ago and given all the
> advice here it may be possible to resurrect it. Do
> these devices have rubber pulleys?
 
Cassette players use 'rubber' belts and 'tires' for various mechanical
drive sections. Most of these parts can probably be found, but it will
take some hunting...
In many cases the old rubber-like compound has turned to goo and first
needs to be cleaned out. Then take out your calipers/micrometer and
start measuring! To figure out the size of the belt (square, flat, or
round) use a piece of string to work that out. Measurement is usually IC
(Inside Circumference) of the circle size of the measured string. Allow
a fudge factor and get at least one size smaller and one size larger
than you think you need to save time.
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 28 02:47PM -0800

> On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 3:21:18 AM UTC-5, tabby wrote:
 
> > Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.
 
> While true, the nature of the material is such that it is very hard not to use too much.
 
I've never had that problem.
 
> After which, it is impervious to most of the solvents already discussed here. After which it is hard to deliver exactly where it may be needed.
 
it doesn't flow like oil, but it's easily moved by squeezing, so will get in there albeit slower. It may suffice.
 
> However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
not only is it long term stable, but unlike most lubes it doesn't break down into corrosive substances when electrified.
 
 
NT
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 28 02:50PM -0800

On Thursday, 28 February 2019 20:53:32 UTC, Peter Jason wrote:
> The player froze up long ago and given all the
> advice here it may be possible to resurrect it. Do
> these devices have rubber pulleys?
 
Rubber belts tends to have disintegrated, less often rubber pulleys too. Cheap stationery rubber bands are often good enough, but not always.
 
 
NT
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 28 03:22PM -0800

Stephen Wolstenholme wrote:
 
> the manufacturer was a dense fat. I've no idea what it was called but
> it looked like a dense petroleum jelly. Any attempt to clean the track
> ruined the lubrication.
 
** That is very strange, in 50+ years I have not come across or heard of a potentiometer with any form of grease deliberately applied to the track.
 
For the simple reason it stops the pot working.
 
 
> The test was just to make sure the wiper moved
> smoothly before assembly continued.
 
 
** Pots with a nice. smooth feel have grease packed into the BEARING where the shaft rotates - usually clear silicone.
 
 
 
 
.... Phil
jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 28 04:40PM -0800

>"** The name is WD40 - not WMD40. *
 
You claimed it was the same as LPS2, IT IS NOT. First of all if it smells different it is different. Also, LPS2 is electrically inert and stays that way. Not with WD40. I been to many shops, WD40 would throw the alignment off on TV tuners, you know the old type. I told them not to use it, use LPS2. Now the alignment would not drift.
 
When more than a very sparing amount of LPS2 is used I rinse it off with a mild solvent. It may remain electrically inert but the dust that it collects maybe not. Even if there are not say carbon particles in the environment, even dander and other types of dust, even though they MIGHT be electrically inert, they won't be when the humidity is high. If it is dander you can be sure there is is/are salt(s) in it. Much dust is dander.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 28 04:43PM -0800

>"Dubious that it would still be alive, much less at liberty. "
 
I say give him a gun and watch the fun...
jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 28 04:44PM -0800

>"But it makes a great flame thrower. I think the propellant has
something to do with that. "
 
Hair spray is much better, but don't use it on electronics.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 28 04:45PM -0800

>" ** The propellant is CO2 "
 
Yup.
 
What you smell is what burns.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 28 04:49PM -0800

>"You have two choices with Phil, agree with him, or
ignore him. "
 
I have a third choice, I can be fifty times as vile without even trying.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 28 04:54PM -0800

>"To figure out the size of the belt (square, flat, or
round) use a piece of string to work that out."
 
I tried to do that mathematically. Like Oºo. The diameters and distance between.
 
It didn't work out. (pun optional)
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 28 04:57PM -0800


> >"** The name is WD40 - not WMD40. *
 
> You claimed it was the same as LPS2,
 
** I did no such thing - you lying fuckwit.
 
 
 
IT IS NOT. First of all if it smells different it is different. Also, LPS2 is electrically inert and stays that way. Not with WD40. I been to many shops, WD40 would throw the alignment off on TV tuners, you know the old type. I told them not to use it, use LPS2. Now the alignment would not drift.
 
** Utter BULLSHIT !!!!!!!!!!
 
ANYTHING that contains oil will make RF tuned circuits drift.
 

 
> When more than a very sparing amount of LPS2 is used I rinse it off
> with a mild solvent. It may remain electrically inert but the dust
> that it collects maybe not.
 
 
 
** He says, while clutching at imaginary straws
 
- what a FUCKING NUT CASE !!
jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 28 04:57PM -0800

>"** That is very strange, in 50+ years I have not come across or heard of a potentiometer with any form of grease deliberately applied to the track.
 
For the simple reason it stops the pot working. "
 
They put that sh it in the shaft/bushing to get the "feel". Not in the whole thing obviously. It has a pretty high viscosity to say the least. Disassemble one like that and you see the shit is like wax.
Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Mar 01 01:02PM +1100

On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 13:06:04 +1100, Peter Jason
 
>>What we told you to use to begin with.
>><https://caig.com/fader-f-series/>
 
>Thanks, I'll find some & report back.
 
The little radio is working so well that I'll
leave off the lube for a while. The wheel is a
bit easier to twirl now.
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