sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Hugh Byrne <HBHughHBByrneHB@eircom.ie>: Apr 10 06:00AM Today the car wouldn't start at a friend's house who had no jumper cables. He had some electrical wire though. We were just starting to jury rig something when his wife showed up with cables in her trunk.   If we did jury rig electrical wires, we were unsure of what size would work.   How can we determine what size electrical wire would work to jump a typical sedan in an emergency?

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Apr 10 08:04AM > work.   > How can we determine what size electrical wire would work to jump a typical > sedan in an emergency?   Aside from calculations, depends how long you wait to start as it charges, and condition of battery being driven.   Greg

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 10 04:03AM -0700 Good cables are #4 copper.   Then, there is everything else.   If the cables are actually being used to jump - that is supply 100% of the current needed to turn the starter - do not go much below #6 wire, or you will have a melted mess on your hands. If you are simply putting a charge on the existing battery so that it will carry most of the load, then pretty much anything will do as a factor of size and time. A piece of 16 gauge Zip and 20 minutes will give some sort of charge, and so forth.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Apr 10 07:52AM -0700 On Wednesday, 10 April 2019 07:00:53 UTC+1, Hugh Byrne wrote: > work.   > How can we determine what size electrical wire would work to jump a typical > sedan in an emergency?   You can also get enough charge into a car battery with a set of AA cells, according to youtube.     NT

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 10 08:36AM -0700 > You can also get enough charge into a car battery with a set of AA cells, according to youtube.     The bible of all things possible (and impossible), and the font of all wisdom, real and imagined. Link, please?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 10 08:41AM -0700 > The bible of all things possible (and impossible), and the font of all wisdom, real and imagined. Link, please?   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Not sure, but I think he's being sarcastic. Plenty of goof videos. I saw one where a guy cut the plug end of an AC cord, connected a standard 9V battery to the wire, and ran a 20" CRT TV with it. He said it would only last a few minutes. I wonder how many people fell for that beauty.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 10 08:49AM -0700 On Wednesday, April 10, 2019 at 11:41:11 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:   > Not sure, but I think he's being sarcastic. Plenty of goof videos. I saw one where a guy cut the plug end of an AC cord, connected a standard 9V battery to the wire, and ran a 20" CRT TV with it. He said it would only last a few minutes. I wonder how many people fell for that beauty.   I believe that Tabby lacks the wherewithal to be sarcastic. But, give me 200 fresh AA batteries, wires, connectors and time, and I will make a jumper that works.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Apr 10 09:12AM -0700 > The bible of all things possible (and impossible), and the font of all wisdom, real and imagined. Link, please?   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   It seems credible https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liqIJbbDYTY     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Apr 10 09:13AM -0700 > I believe that Tabby lacks the wherewithal to be sarcastic. But, give me 200 fresh AA batteries, wires, connectors and time, and I will make a jumper that works.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I see you're being childish again. What's new.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 10 09:32AM -0700 > It seems credible > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liqIJbbDYTY   > NT   Video unavailable This video is no longer available because the YouTube account associated with this video has been terminated.

ggherold@gmail.com: Apr 10 09:35AM -0700 > > NT   > Video unavailable > This video is no longer available because the YouTube account associated with this video has been terminated.   Electroboom did that, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0utNemFsl8   GH

tubeguy@myshop.com: Apr 09 06:26PM -0500 I have an antique tube type radio (FM tuner) from 1947. It's a "Pilotuner" model 601. It has a #47 bulb for the dial light. The socket is one of the kinds that you squeeze the sides and it clamps into the front dial plate. The bulb is a bayonet type, so there is a spring below the bulb base.   Of all the years I've worked on old tube gear, I never had this happen. I removed the bulb and the wire fell out the rear of the socket. I'm sure finding a replacement socket wont be easy, so I'm trying to repair this broken one. From what I see, that wire is soldered into the center of the insulated piece below the bulb. (I think???). But getting a soldering iron into that small hole along with a solder sucker to remove the old solder seems to be a big challenge. Not to mention how much heat that tiny insulated piece can handle. Taking it apart by the spring is not an option since they pressed the metal inward and I wont even attempt to mess with that.   Have any of you successfully repaired one of these? Any suggestions or tips appreciated.   If nothing else, I suppose I can epoxy a plain socket to that clamp.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 09 04:50PM -0700 > Have any of you successfully repaired one of these? > Any suggestions or tips appreciated.   > If nothing else, I suppose I can epoxy a plain socket to that clamp.   Those bayonet sockets are available from the antique radio web sites. Or Nevada Surplus.   Don't you search first?   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 09 10:01PM -0500 > that tiny insulated piece can handle. Taking it apart by the spring is > not an option since they pressed the metal inward and I wont even > attempt to mess with that.   The "Plate" is phenolic with a brass eyelet. Soldering isn't going to "melt" it.   Secondly it's NOT that far down the socket. What are you using an old 250 Watt American Beauty gutter iron? Any recent iron with an 1/8" chisel tip shouldn't have any problem.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Apr 10 12:15PM +0800 On 10/04/2019 11:01 am, Fox's Mercantile wrote:   > Secondly it's NOT that far down the socket. What are you using an old > 250 Watt American Beauty gutter iron? > Any recent iron with an 1/8" chisel tip shouldn't have any problem.   The 250watt sounds about right !!

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 09 10:23PM -0700 On 2019/04/09 8:01 p.m., Fox's Mercantile wrote:   > Secondly it's NOT that far down the socket. What are you using an old > 250 Watt American Beauty gutter iron? > Any recent iron with an 1/8" chisel tip shouldn't have any problem.   In most cases the old style bayonet based sockets had enough slop that you could push the wire through the base of the socket to raise the contact disc (keeping the spring in place) out the top of the socket so it could be soldered. One did not try to solder these deep in the socket.   John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 10 08:29AM -0700 On Tuesday, April 9, 2019 at 11:02:02 PM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote:   > Secondly it's NOT that far down the socket. What are you using an old > 250 Watt American Beauty gutter iron?   Snob. My grandfather gave me his Wendell Willkie autograph model American Beauty gutter iron. My pride and joy.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 10 08:40AM -0700 On Wednesday, April 10, 2019 at 11:29:48 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:   > Snob. My grandfather gave me his Wendell Willkie autograph model American Beauty gutter iron. My pride and joy.   https://americanbeautytools.com/soldering-iron-3198/19/features   Lest you think these guys are kidding!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 10 10:50AM -0500 On 4/10/19 10:29 AM, John-Del wrote: > Snob. My grandfather gave me his Wendell Willkie autograph > model American Beauty gutter iron. My pride and joy.   I not only have an American Beauty 250 watt soldering iron, I have the "idle base" for it with the thermostat.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

tubeguy@myshop.com: Apr 09 06:27PM -0500 Back in the early days of electronics, Capacitors were called Condensers. Why was the word changed?   Yea, I know there is a part in a refrigeration unit called a condenser. But does that have anything to do with this?

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 09 05:30PM -0700 > Condensers. Why was the word changed?   > Yea, I know there is a part in a refrigeration unit called a condenser. > But does that have anything to do with this?   From Wikipedia:   Early capacitors were known as condensers, a term that is still occasionally used today, particularly in high power applications, such as automotive systems. The term was first used for this purpose by Alessandro Volta in 1782, with reference to the device's ability to store a higher density of electric charge than was possible with an isolated conductor. The term became deprecated because of the ambiguous meaning of steam condenser, with capacitor becoming the recommended term from 1926.

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Apr 09 10:58AM -0700 > same problem and I'm not sure what I'm going to do. If anyone can > please help me with this I would sincerely appreciate it. Thanks, > Lenny   Chuck In looking at the schematic I don't see an 18V line. At the output there is a plug. It has outputs of 4.0V, 6.0V, and 14.60V, but nothing marked 18V. Actually, the only zener I see on the board is D1018 and it is off the emitter of Q1006. Could that be the one you're referring to? Also I heard that some parts stores were selling repair kits for these but that was a while ago. Do you know who might still have these available or at least where I could still get the Mosfet? Thanks, Lenny

makolber@yahoo.com: Apr 09 10:59AM -0700 On Tuesday, April 9, 2019 at 12:20:47 PM UTC-4, Chuck wrote: > Once you recap these and replace the mosfet, please check the 18V > zener to ground on the 15V line. Very likely that it will be shorted. > Chuck   Looks like the schematic is available on line.   I would DL the schematic and rip one of the four apart and try to fix it. Then decide about the other 3.   mark

Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Apr 09 11:20AM -0500 On Mon, 8 Apr 2019 13:22:09 -0700 (PDT), captainvideo462009@gmail.com wrote:   >same problem and I'm not sure what I'm going to do. If anyone can >please help me with this I would sincerely appreciate it. Thanks, >Lenny Lenny, Once you recap these and replace the mosfet, please check the 18V zener to ground on the 15V line. Very likely that it will be shorted. Chuck

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.