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| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 11 12:54PM -0400 In article <odpuaetlmvevs3s6pir6gv0mjc4m6b8fdq@4ax.com>, etpm@whidbey.com says... > calculate the wattage. is at 18 volts times 17 mA or 6.5 volts at 17 > mA? I think I should use the open circuit voltage but I don't know. > Eric YOu really need to load the panel with a resitive load. If it really is putting out 7 watts,that resistor should be around 5 to 10 ohms. Then measure the voltage and current. You are just barley putting into the battery (when mostly charged) any power at all. It would be the 17 ma times what ever the open circuit of the battery is ( say 6.3 maybe) minus the charging voltage (6,5 in your case) or about .2 volts. So .2 x .017 equals almost nothing. If the battery was mostly dead you would have a much different ammount of current if that solar cell is relly 7 watts. The cell is in very bright sun is it not ? I have a lawn tractor with a 12 volt battery and a panel hooked to it. It has ran 2 winters hooked up for about 5 months at a time and no problem so far and the tractor starts right up with a good spin the first time of the mowing season. Water does not boil out over the winter. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Apr 11 09:55AM -0700 > calculate the wattage. is at 18 volts times 17 mA or 6.5 volts at 17 > mA? I think I should use the open circuit voltage but I don't know. > Eric It's delivering 6.5v at 17mA. 6.5 x 17m = 110mW, 0.11 watts. At 18v it would deliver less current thus less power. NT |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Apr 11 10:05AM -0700 > Keep that solar panel trickle charger. It will be a much better bet. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Let's see if we can improve on that. Most cars don't need anywhere near 3s of cranking. Crank current varies quite a lot, and most vehicles can still start at below normal crank current/voltage. And of course the lead acid battery does already have at least a bit of charge in it fwiw. A string of AA cells delivering 4Wh each, for 10 cells that's 40Wh, or for 12 cells 48Wh. At 12v that's 3.3-4Ah. At 200A cranking that's 3.3-4/200 = 1 - 1.2 minute cranking. At 100A cranking it's 2-2.4 minutes. Far more than enough. 10 minutes of charge time from AAs should be plenty. NT |
| Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Apr 12 06:57AM +1000 On 10/04/2019 4:00 pm, Hugh Byrne wrote: > work. > How can we determine what size electrical wire would work to jump a typical > sedan in an emergency? **It depends on a vast range of factors, including: * The length of the wires (and this is the most critical one). * The ability of the flat battery to accept charge. * The size of the engine to be started. * Whether the engine is petrol (gasoline) or Diesel (Diesels are much harder to start). You could, for instance, arrange a nice, slow trickle charge into the flat battery over an hour or so, using modestly sized wire and still start the engine. I keep one of these in my car: https://www.baintech.com.au/btcap Mine came from Aldi and cost AUD$129.00. It can be charged from a variety of sources, including the host battery, USB wall wart and a laptop USB port. -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
| Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Apr 11 05:52PM -0700 On Wednesday, April 10, 2019 at 2:00:53 AM UTC-4, Hugh Byrne wrote: > work. > How can we determine what size electrical wire would work to jump a typical > sedan in an emergency? This was almost 50 years ago, but I jump started a 225 slant six in a 1970 Plymouth Gold Duster by parking my car with the chrome bumpers touching, and some aluminum clothes wire. Luckily, I was wearing heavy gloves, because it started to droop from overheating, but it did let a coworker start his car after work. My car was a 1963 Pontiac Catalina, with the largest battery that would fit into the holder. It was below zero outside, so we didn't want to stand there in a high wind, waiting to charge it from my car. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 12 07:48AM -0700 Operative terms from the OP: "Jump" "Typical Sedan" Nothing about taking an hour or more to cobble some sort of device from some sort of material, that may or may not put sufficient a charge on a flat and/or dead battery (two different things) for eventual conventional starting. So: #4 copper cable. Less/not copper is a risk. Hot metal spatter or an explode lead-acid battery, or even a series of exploded AA batteries is no fun whatsoever. Guys and gals: Give advice as if it were to a human being that you might possibly care about. And think about that advice as you give it. What you do for yourself and with only yourself at risk is fine. When you suggest that to another, own it and 100% of the potential consequences - even the possible limitations of the recipient. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 12 09:55AM -0500 > Guys and gals: Give advice as if it were to a human being that you might possibly care about. And think about that advice as you give it. What you do for yourself and with only yourself at risk is fine. When you suggest that to another, own it and 100% of the potential consequences - even the possible limitations of the recipient. And that video of the guy with the AA batteries is absolutely bull shit. The key was watching him hook the string up backwards at first. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| Keith <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1134@example.com>: Apr 12 01:37AM AEG Cooker hood MOD302 D-w/GB E-Nr. 610409969 Ser No 035100262 I require a replacement micro switch for this cooker hood. I would appreciate an answer. Regards Keith -- |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 11 11:20PM -0700 On 2019/04/11 6:37 p.m., Keith wrote: > answer. > Regards > Keith A couple of photos of the switch you need, hosted somewhere with a link is more likely to get you a useful answer... John :-#)# |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 12 07:41AM -0700 On Thursday, April 11, 2019 at 9:37:05 PM UTC-4, Keith wrote: > Regards > Keith > -- I would go so far as to suggest that you remove the old switch - taking many pictures during the process - walk it down to your local electrical supply house, if you have one, and ask for ----> THIS. Alternately, remove it as above, and search on-line for one that will fit. It is extremely likely that the OEM used an off-the-shelf part, vs. a custom part, and that you can find it with a bit of looking. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Apr 11 07:46PM -0700 > > > a) The LED emitters themselves: These are pretty generic beasts, and while not-quite-one-size-fits-all, the same emitter may provide light from between 3000K to 5000K. They are also pretty bullet-proof. > > in excellent quality lamps maybe. Not at all bullet-proof in domestic LED lights. > Possibly true, but the failure mode of an emitter is not flicker. A broken bonding wire will cause a flicker as it heats, then opens. It cools and comes back on. Not that you actually know anything about Semiconductors and how the dies connect to the outside world. Stick with your junk, tube amplifiers and radios. I have done autopsies on a handful of failed LED bulbs Every one so far has had the case vent on the Electrolytic capacitor, and spraying the electrolyte inside the plastic case. The bulbs are easy to open. A thin film of RTV holds the dome on the bas. Twist it and it breaks free. Once they are open, there are two solder pads from the bottom part. Unsolder them, and you can replace the electrolytic. I was more interested in converting some of the to 12Volts instead of repairing them. The internal construction was identical on the $1 Sunbeam bulbs as higher priced, better known brands. |
| Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Apr 11 07:48PM -0700 On Wednesday, December 12, 2018 at 4:01:17 PM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > work just fine with the old photo cell socket "night light" adapters. > Designed to work with incandescent bulbs, I found out they only take > month or two to kill halogen bulbs. He is BT 2.0 |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 12 04:44AM -0500 On 4/11/19 9:48 PM, Michael Terrell wrote: >> Designed to work with incandescent bulbs, I found out they only take >> month or two to kill halogen bulbs. > He is BT 2.0 It took you almost 4 months to come up with this? Crawl back under your rock you miserable bitter old man. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
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