- Crazy idea? - 5 Updates
- Catastrophe - help required. - 7 Updates
| etpm@whidbey.com: May 06 08:26PM -0700 I posted this in the basics newsgroup too but repairs could be in my future. Mebbe I shud jest leave things be... But here goes my crazy idea. I have a Ford 9N tractor. The hydraulics that raise the arms of the 3 point hitch system are powered by the same system that spins the PTO. This means that when the post hole digger is kept raised it also must be spinning. This is dangerous but that's the way the 1939 tractor was made. The tractor is a 6 volt system. I have a 12 volt clutch that I am thinking about interposing between the PTO and the post hole digger. The clutch draws about 5 amps and the generator can put out 11 amps. So what if I arrange, with some sort of switching, to have the generator connected in series with the 6 volt battery to power the clutch whenever I am using the post hole digger? Crazy idea? I could change the tractor to 12 volts but that would require a new alternator, battery, and coil. As well as the kit to make an alternator fit the tractor. Since the battery and generator are new I can't justify to myself that replacing them needed to be done anyway so why not convert to 12 volts. Since I have a machine shop the mechanical part can be done properly. But just because I can engineer and build the mechanical part doesn't qualify me to judge the electrical part of my scheme. Thoughts? Thanks, Eric |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 06 11:35PM -0500 > So what if I arrange, with some sort of switching, to have the > generator connected in series with the 6 volt battery to power the > clutch whenever I am using the post hole digger? Since you're going to have a second battery, why not just have a 12v battery? A 6v to 12v converter to charge the 12v battery and you're done. While you're at it, put in a cigar lighter across the 12v and you'll have a place to plug in your phone charger or a radio. ;-) -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 06 10:20PM -0700 >Thoughts? >Thanks, >Eric Clutching at straws? Like this? <https://www.machinerypete.com/details/under-40-hp/1939/ford/9n/19551675> What type of 12v clutch to you have? Disc, band, planetary, radial pin, ratchet, etc? Some random thoughts, suggestions, and sanity checks: 1. The auger is going to generate quite a bit of torque. If the auger gets hung up on a rock, something in the drive chain is going to absorb the energy. Usually, its a shear pin or shear bolt. If you put a disc, band, or radial pin clutch in between the drive and auger, it will be the disc or band that takes up the load and convert the drive power to smoke or a pin that gets sheared. 2. I'm not sure what manner of PTO you have but if it's reversible, be sure your clutch will work equally well in reverse so you can back out the auger after you get it hung up on a rock. Disc clutches will usually work in reverse. Radial pin clutches, will not. Band clutches might work, depending on design. 3. Electrically, you want the system to run either on 6 or 12VDC, not both. Finding a 6V disc clutch might be difficult but replacing the generator, battery, starter, gauges, etc on the tractor probably more difficult. As a compromise, I suggest hanging a small battery and small alternator somewhere on the tractor just to run the 12v clutch. 4. If your auger is driven by a drive shaft with two universal joints, then maybe forget the electric clutch and use a radial pin clutch instead of a disc clutch. Note that some augers come with clutches: <https://agcrazy.com/wn-04451000-auger-slip-clutch-radial-pin> If you have machining capabilities, you could probably make one of these. 4. You wouldn't have this problem if the PTO was hydraulically coupled to the post hole digger. If you're proficient at putting together hydraulic system, it might be easier and better than installing a mechanical clutch. A hydraulic pump and motor, a disconnect valve, combined with a reversing control valve, would work, but is rather complex and potentially expensive. However, it has the advantage of only needing a single shear pin, no machining, and nothing on the tractor, PTO, or auger needs modification. The hydraulics on the PTO could also be used to power other impliments and machines. More: "Clutch for a Post Hole Digger" <https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=981868> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 07 05:58AM -0700 > Thoughts? > Thanks, > Eric The clutch's coil is not rewindable I presume, if it is that would be easier to live with. NT |
| etpm@whidbey.com: May 07 09:16AM -0700 On Mon, 06 May 2019 22:20:31 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote: >>Thoughts? >>Thanks, >>Eric Greetings Jeff, >Clutching at straws? >Like this? ><https://www.machinerypete.com/details/under-40-hp/1939/ford/9n/19551675> Yeah, that's the tractor. >What type of 12v clutch to you have? Disc, band, planetary, radial >pin, ratchet, etc? A disc type from a riding mower. >put a disc, band, or radial pin clutch in between the drive and auger, >it will be the disc or band that takes up the load and convert the >drive power to smoke or a pin that gets sheared. I have the post hole digger. They all come with shear pins which are really grade 2 bolts. This is industry standard. Lots of folks ruin their digger gearboxes when they use grade 8 bolts instead of grade 2. >out the auger after you get it hung up on a rock. Disc clutches will >usually work in reverse. Radial pin clutches, will not. Band >clutches might work, depending on design. No reverse on the PTO. You have to take the bolts out and unscrew the augur using a big wrench. That's how it was done in 1939 on inexpensive tractors. ><https://agcrazy.com/wn-04451000-auger-slip-clutch-radial-pin> >If you have machining capabilities, you could probably make one of >these. I wanted to somehow connect the generator in series with the battery but I like your extra alternator idea. Then there is a totally separate circuit. I like that idea. >only needing a single shear pin, no machining, and nothing on the >tractor, PTO, or auger needs modification. The hydraulics on the PTO >could also be used to power other impliments and machines. I think I like the hydraulic idea the most. With a hydraulic pump and motor the augur could be reversed out if it gets stuck. And there would be no spinning driveshaft hanging out in the wind. I need to look at some surplus hydraulics. >More: >"Clutch for a Post Hole Digger" ><https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=981868> Thanks for the great ideas Jeff. Cheers, Eric |
| Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: May 07 08:04AM +1000 I managed to get heat transfer compound on my favourite T-shirt a few weeks back. Naturally, the compound is white and my T-shirt is black. Standard washing powder doesn't remove it. Any ideas? -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
| Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: May 06 06:22PM -0400 On 5/6/19 6:04 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote: > I managed to get heat transfer compound on my favourite T-shirt a few > weeks back. Naturally, the compound is white and my T-shirt is black. > Standard washing powder doesn't remove it. Any ideas? Dunno if you can get it down under, but I swear by a veterinary shampoo called Orvus WA Paste. Gets spaghetti sauce out of white shirts, you name it. You rub it in vigorously from both sides of the fabric, toss it in the wash, and it comes out clean as a whistle. Cheers Phil Hobbs |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: May 06 03:33PM -0700 On Monday, May 6, 2019 at 3:04:42 PM UTC-7, Trevor Wilson wrote: > I managed to get heat transfer compound on my favourite T-shirt a few > weeks back. Naturally, the compound is white and my T-shirt is black. > Standard washing powder doesn't remove it. Any ideas? Waterless hand cleaner. It will take out lipids, THEN the white pigment (maybe zinc oxide?) should loosen and fall away. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, that's also good for final cleanup (but remoe the greasy stuff first). If it is zinc oxide pigment, dilute lye will dissolve it. Don't rub, though. |
| etpm@whidbey.com: May 06 03:36PM -0700 On Tue, 7 May 2019 08:04:40 +1000, Trevor Wilson >I managed to get heat transfer compound on my favourite T-shirt a few >weeks back. Naturally, the compound is white and my T-shirt is black. >Standard washing powder doesn't remove it. Any ideas? I dunno if you can find chlorinated brake cleaner in your part of the world but if you can it will probably work. Or chlorinated electric contact cleaner. Both use perchlorethylene, which also used to be used as a dry cleaning solvent. The solvents will be advertised as non-flammable and will be in spray cans. Eric |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 06 04:16PM -0700 > as a dry cleaning solvent. The solvents will be advertised as > non-flammable and will be in spray cans. > Eric I'd try something cheaper, safer & on hand first, paraffin/kerosene. NT |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 06 06:58PM -0700 On Tue, 7 May 2019 08:04:40 +1000, Trevor Wilson >I managed to get heat transfer compound on my favourite T-shirt a few >weeks back. Naturally, the compound is white and my T-shirt is black. >Standard washing powder doesn't remove it. Any ideas? Removing Thermal Compound - The BEST Way? <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOd1oN1wPSk> (11:06) Conclusion: 91% isopropyl alcohol (or maybe acetone) for the thick thermal goo, and just about anything (except orange juice) for the thin thermal goo. I suggest that you test any solvent on an obscure part of the t-shirt to make sure the black color dye isn't affected. However, that just removes the greasy carrier leaving the zinc oxide granules behind imbedded in the weave of the cotton t-shirt. Additional solvent attack isn't going to do much to the remaining granules as zinc oxide is not soluble in organic hydrocarbon solvents. However, it is dissolved by most acids: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_oxide> It is nearly insoluble in water, but it will dissolve in most acids, such as hydrochloric acid. and some bases: Solid zinc oxide will also dissolve in alkalis to give soluble zincates. The black dye will probably be attacked by HCl which will also burn a hole in your t-shirt. To avoid this, I suggest using a mild acid, such as white vinegar instead. For a mild base, I suggest any of the common household cleaners (409, Fantastic, CLR, etc). If you've removed the greasy carrier, but the zinc oxide remains, I would try mechanical extraction using water and compressed air. The air flow will expand the cotton fibers and hopefully release the zinc oxide granules. Disclaimer: Since I don't wear black t-shirts and am not in the habit of cleaning heat sinks with a black t-shirt, I have not had the opportunity to test the effects of the aforementioned recommendations. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: May 06 08:20PM -0700 On 05/06/2019 03:04 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote: > I managed to get heat transfer compound on my favourite T-shirt a few > weeks back. Naturally, the compound is white and my T-shirt is black. > Standard washing powder doesn't remove it. Any ideas? I've always liked either Gunk or mechanic's hand cleaner (the kind that rinses off with water, not the kind that you just wipe off) for greasy spots. Work a blob of it around with the edge of a teaspoon against your hand for a while and then wash. If the spot isn't gone DO NOT PUT THE GARMENT THROUGH THE DRYER. Let it air-dry and try again. -- Cheers, Bev "Advertising is the rattling of a stick inside a swill bucket." -- George Orwell |
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