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George Cornelius <cornelius@eisner.decus.org.INVALID>: Jun 07 11:14AM > If reliability is critical, replace it immediately. Then, if you must, troubleshoot the > old one and then put it on the shelf as a *temporary* spare.   Look at at this way: you made the $100 service call and replaced the $2 part. (Just throwing out numbers here, so please don't hold me to them). Discard the bad part so nobody will try to resurrect it, ultimately resulting in another $100 service call.   If customer wants a spare, sell him a new one, $2 plus an (ahem) appropriate markup.   Or let him buy one on eBay.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 07 06:57AM -0700 You miss the point - I am beginning to think that is typical of you. Prouvost is the type who wants to set camber with a cell phone, and patch bald tires for its BMW.   Practicality and common sense are not under discussion.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 07 11:24AM -0400 In article <qddgv2$1nsf$1@gioia.aioe.org>, cornelius@eisner.decus.org.INVALID says... > another $100 service call.   > If customer wants a spare, sell him a new one, $2 plus an (ahem) appropriate markup.   > Or let him buy one on eBay.   I got ripped off big time on the heat pump.   Service call was $ 100 just to come out. Fair enough. Replaced a capacitor that shoud have been a fair pricce of $ 50 due to markup. However their standard rate ws about $ 300.   I later bought a capacitor and relay just to have off ebay for less than $ 20 each including shipping.   Two years later the capacitor went out again, so put in my $ 20 capacitor and ordered another off ebay.   If it is a part that may be ok, I may save it for an emergency,but usually just chunk the old part if it is not very expensive.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 06 10:26AM -0700 On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 04:52:59 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" >exterior LED lamp - and ask yourself where the heat-sink(s) >is (are). On the driver? On the emitters? And, most of them >make 130 lumens per watt, or more... right now.   Specs and tests are so much fun: <https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/press-releases/2010/09/ftc-shines-light-companys-deceptive-claims-its-led-bulbs> For example, one bulb was promoted as producing 90 lumens of light output, but Lights of America's own tests showed it produced only 43 lumens.   ...the firm claimed that one of its LED lantern bulbs could replace a 40-watt incandescent bulb. However, while the typical 40-watt incandescent bulb produces about 400 lumens, the Lights of America LED bulb produced only 74 lumens.   Ok, it's not Cree which is a reputable manufacture.   I'm glad you picked Cree exterior LED lights, which I'll interpret at being Cree spot lights, because I have the a setup that does a tolerable job of measuring lumens of any lighting that generates a fairly uniform "spot" on a wall. I wrote this for bicycle lighting: <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/rec.bicycles.tech/UJdJQFTDgl8/NgOZUloVCwAJ> Unfortunately, I don't have any Cree LED spotlights handy, so that test will need to wait.   Let's try a few Cree random spot and flood lights: <https://creebulb.com/products/reflector>   <https://creebulb.com/120-watt-replacement-par38-bright-white-spot> 1200 lumens / 19 watts = 63 lum/watt   <https://creebulb.com/120-watt-replacement-par38-cool-white-flood> 1200 lumens / 19 watts = 63 lum/watt   <https://creebulb.com/100-watt-replacement-br30-daylight-flood> 1400 lumens / 16 watts = 75 lum/watt   Hmmm... 63 and 75 lum/watt does not look much like 130 lum/watt. Got a link to any high efficacy lights?   I think the problem is that you're using the efficiency of the LED chip itself, while the lighting manufacturers are using the operating efficieny, which include losses in the inverter and optics. There are plenty of LED chips that will deliver greater than 100 lum/watt but no AC powered lighting products.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 06 11:24AM -0700 Jeff:   I am pointing to 'right now' CREE shoebox fixtures for parking lots, as one application. I have installed several thousand in my day- here are specific links:   https://www.rablighting.com/feature/ez-site   https://lighting.cree.com/products/outdoor/area/clite-area   https://lighting.cree.com/products/outdoor/area/noctura-area   We are in the process of re-lamping/refixturing about 1,000,000 gsf of medical office building and medical school, using LEDs. Our average LPM, net, after retrofitting, is a tad over 100 lm/watt. With the screw-in stuff around 80, the replaced 2x2 and 2x4 fixtures being about 120.   Here is one of those, from a 'regular' supplier accessible by you and I any day, any time. Note that purchased in bulk, the priced goes under $50.   https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/207639/PLT-11204.html   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 06 11:56AM -0700 And, I may as well rub it in some:   https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/201937/LED-8038E40-A.html 142.8 lm/w.   https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/201938/LED-8038E57-A.html 157 lm/w   And, in the Dollar-Bin:   https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/208043/PLT-11208.html 83 lm/w   https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/208044/PLT-11209.html 83 lm/w   Slightly more costly:   https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/173772/PLT-10298.html 100 lm/w   Guys and gals - this stuff is off-the-shelf, available to all of us, and without fuss or muss.   Spots and floods for conventional fixtures are something of a special case inasmuch as the emitters may radiate only in one direction in practical application. But, depending on the color, readings in the 70s for lm/w are not uncommon:   https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/led-par30l-75w-equal-fl-3500K/   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

cornelius@eisner.decus.org (George Cornelius): Jun 07 09:13AM -0400 In article <3b066973-fe97-4922-90fd-317782931565@googlegroups.com>,   > Tabby gives clear and direct meaning to the term "invincible ignorance" > as no matter how clearly they might be presented, he will not be > confused by mere facts.   Lead with an ad hominem. This is a sure indication of a debater who is confident in his own case.   > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locust_Ridge_Wind_Farm   > It will make 'nameplate' at any range from 7 mph to 54 mph wind-speed. > And its site will deliver that 7 all day, every day.   Well that is in interesting remark, so let's examine it.   First of all, let's disregard "nameplate" tricks. If you have a 2 MW capacity generator and list it on the nameplate as 500KW, you can then meet some rather impressive performance goals - by mere use of understatement in your specifications.   But does the "nameplate" claim even make sense?   The physics is that the power - energy flow - per unit cross section is proportional to wind velocity squared. You state an 8:1 ratio in velocity over which its nameplate is met. This means over a 64:1 range of input you claim they meet a single fixed output target, presumably that associated with 7 mph input. So when wind energy is 64 x the minimum, what do you do with the other 63 x - toss it out?   George

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 07 06:32AM -0700 Once again, laboring under the burden of theory rather than practice.   Wind turbines have variable vanes. They rotate at their base from very roughly 60 degrees to the wind to 0 degrees to the wind. At 0, they do not turn, and typically this state is when the wind speeds are too high (exceedingly rare), or the unit is being serviced (and the rotor is locked when under service). At 60 degrees, and with the design minimum wind velocity, it will make the design rotational speed.   Wind turbines do not pretend to use all the energy available. They use a very small fraction of it - but it is essentially "free" energy.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jun 07 08:37AM -0500 On 6/7/19 8:13 AM, George Cornelius wrote: > So when wind energy > is 64 x the minimum, what do you do with the other 63 x - toss it > out?   How is this even a question?   Generation capacity isn't like water, you're like those people that think electricity is wasted by leaving a light bulb out of a socket and it will leak out,     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

cornelius@eisner.decus.org (George Cornelius): Jun 07 10:02AM -0400 > Generation capacity isn't like water, you're like those people that > think electricity is wasted by leaving a light bulb out of a socket > and it will leak out,   And you are missing the point. The physics of a generator that can only operate in a low efficiency range is a bizarre one. I have the capability of designing a generator that can harness all that energy, but I choose not merely an inefficient one but one which can only use 1/64 of what an efficient one would use?   I realize that most environmentalists don't have a clue about physics. But I am asking you to use your head. The numbers as quoted are so bizarrely out of whack with any reality that the rest of us inhabit as to clearly indicate that they are "cooked": deliberately couched in a way to make claims such as are being made here sound plausible.   We live in the real world, folks. The nubmers don't add up.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 07 07:19AM -0700 On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 10:03:00 AM UTC-4, George Cornelius wrote:   > We live in the real world, folks. The nubmers don't add up.   The *numbers* add up perfectly fine, if one takes a fraction of a second to understand the process.   "Harnessing all that energy"? Really? How does that happen exactly? Please describe the mechanics of your proposed system? Positing actual available materials in this 'real world'.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jun 07 05:15AM +1000 "Mark Lloyd" <not@mail.invalid> wrote in message news:%9aKE.37664$Ky4.31538@fx08.iad... >> it. After all, it's "daylight".   > I find the old "dirty yellow" bulbs looking worse and worse now that real > white is available.   I did have that reaction initially when I installed the Philips Hue lights right thru my house. Got the dirty yellow starter kit and hated how yellow it was, even tho I mostly used PAR38 floods and spots inside the house before that. So I got the fully color controlled bulbs for the ones after the initial starter kit of 3 bulbs and used the yellow ones in the bedroom, the room where I store all the beer I brew etc.   Don't really notice the dirty yellow in the bedroom anymore even tho it gets used every day. And I now how quite a few of what Philips call white ambience which can be set to any white you like but not any color you like like the most expensive bulbs can be.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jun 06 02:43PM -0500 I put up with the "not quite" white that yellows with age CFLs and the not instant on simply because they made my electric bill go way down Now that LEDs are cheap, I buy them at Wal-Mart. Instant on and something close to white again.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Peeler <troll@trap.invalid>: Jun 06 09:56PM +0200 On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 05:15:15 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:       > I did have that reaction initially when I installed the Philips Hue   I told you already, and I will tell you again: you can shove your Philips Hue up yours, senile Rodent!   -- Sqwertz to Rot Speed: "This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative asshole. MID: <ev1p6ml7ywd5$.dlg@sqwertz.com>

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 06 06:42PM -0400 In article <c-2dnRyQQs9T8WTBnZ2dnUU7-U3NnZ2d@giganews.com>, jdangus@att.net says... > Now that LEDs are cheap, I buy them at Wal-Mart. Instant > on and something close to white again.   Do you notice that some come on instantly and some seem to have about a 2 second delay. The ones I have with the delay do come on full brightness as far as I can tell at the end of those 2 seconds.

Mark Lloyd <not@mail.invalid>: Jun 07 08:14AM -0500 On 6/6/19 5:42 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > Do you notice that some come on instantly and some seem to have about a > 2 second delay. The ones I have with the delay do come on full > brightness as far as I can tell at the end of those 2 seconds.   I had one strange CFL that actually changed color. It would come on dirty yellow, and a few seconds later turned white.   -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.us/   "Life after death" is an obvious contradiction, unless you're really into "dynamic redefinition". The "life" that exists afterward COULDN'T be the same one that just ended irreversibly by "death".

~misfit~ <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Jun 07 02:00PM +1200 On 6/06/2019 3:35 AM, bitrex wrote: > (Lenovo Preload) is not supported."   > Yeah, that's why the PSU board fucking failed, Linux made it happen.   > be the last machine I buy from this company just avoid these shit heads.   You didn't say what model laptop it was. Lenovo, like all of the big laptop manufacturers make a range of models to a range of price-points. If the unit that failed was one of their cheap retail consumer models (and the fact it was purchased from a shop rather than directly suggests it was) it's unfair to then say "avoid these shit heads" based on a single experience concerning a base model.   The lack of serial number suggests that it may be a 'grey market' unit possibly originally manufactured to be sold in a developing country for peanuts and then imported to wherever you live. Also that it's only warranted for the original OS points to a low-end unit. The fact that the internal PSU PCB failed also brings into question what external PSU was used with it, whether it was an OEM brick or maybe something else.   Lenovo, like Dell and others make some great laptops that are durable and have excellent warranty coverage but you won't find them in the shelves of your local big-box store. They're usually available only from the manufacturer directly and cost more than their retail stuff but are well supported and often give a decade or more of trouble-free use. These are usually supplied with a choice of OS or even with no OS installed (and still warrantied).   You get what you pay for. That said I buy ex-lease Dell corporate stuff, usually three years old and usually still with two years warranty and for a lot less money than the punters pay for new consumer-grade, engineered to fail at the 15-month mark, 12-month warrantied junk. -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM" David Melville   This is not an email and hasn't been checked for viruses by any half-arsed self-promoting software.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jun 07 06:04AM -0700 On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 10:00:34 PM UTC-4, ~misfit~ wrote: > consumer-grade, engineered to fail at the 15-month mark, 12-month warrantied junk. > -- > Shaun.   How do you find that? I lucked into a corporate quality Dell some time back and have been looking for another without success. Corporations turn their inventory over and dispose of some high quality machines regularly, but I haven't figured out how to tap into that. Even if they're wiped, no operating system, I run Linux and hard drives are cheap.

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