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Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jul 05 03:20PM -0500 On 7/5/19 2:38 PM, OGX wrote: > batteries.  No reset was necessary.   > Resetting "Outdoor Reset" does nothing to fix the current situation.   > I am pretty sure it is the solar panel.   Ya know, you're gonna have to take it down to fix it anyway. You didn't say if you tried another set of batteries after they died. Or rather than buy yest another set, since you have to pull it down one way or the other, put in another set and see if the weather station works.         -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

OGX <X@pertatnothing.com>: Jul 05 03:54PM -0700 not on for a wild goose chases.   I guess no one here knows much about solar panels or charging 3 AA cells and what is needed.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jul 05 07:29PM -0500 On 7/5/19 5:54 PM, OGX wrote:   > not on for a wild goose chases.   > I guess no one here knows much about solar panels or charging 3 AA cells > and what is needed.   I guess you just want to waste everyone else's time asking questions instead of doing anything useful.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 05 07:11PM -0700 >not on for a wild goose chases.   You don't know what you're missing [1].   >I guess no one here knows much about solar panels or charging 3 AA cells >and what is needed.   True. Nobody here knows anything that will help you deduce what has failed without you taking down the wx station, cleaning out the inevitable corrosion, inspecting the batteries, and making a few measurements. However, you're in luck here. I've had some experience with both the WS-1200 and WS-1201-IP.   Spare parts. Sorry, no solar cells: <https://www.ambientweather.com/amwewswestre1.html> The WS-1200 uses rechargeable alkaline batteries. <https://www.ambientweather.com/amws1000batt.html> Rechargeable alkaline batteries are only a little better than junk. They cannot be recharged to 100% of original capacity and are only good for a limited number of partial recharges. It doesn't take much to kill them: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rechargeable_alkaline_battery> The capacity of a recharged alkaline battery declines with number of recharges, until it becomes unusable after typically about ten cycles. So, every time you run the weather station batteries down to zero (such as after a cloudy winter), you kill one of the 9 lives of this cat. Ambient is apparently aware of the problem as the newer WS-1201-IP uses a super capacitor instead of batteries. I suspect you could replace the 3 AA cells with a super capacitor: <https://www.ambientweather.com/amws1200ip.html#caption> Note: The WS-1201-IP replaces the WS-1200-IP. The WS-1200-IP uses rechargeable batteries that are charged by a solar collector. The WS-1201-IP uses a super capacitor for energy storage, and is charged by the solar collector in the day, and non-rechargeable batteries at night. I think you'll find that the batteries are dead, your solar cells are just fine, and you'll either be making a phone call to Ambient to see if they offer an upgrade to the WS-1201-IP, or buying 3 more rechargeable alkaline cells.     [1] I've been doing morning exercise walks in a local county park, which feature a pond inhabited by a family of Canadian geese. I've been watching three little goslings grow up very rapidly: <https://friendsofquailhollow.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/4Goslings.jpg> I know all about chasing wild geese, or rather about being chased by papa wild goose for getting too close to his family. Wild goose chases can be fun.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Dave M <dgminala at mediacombb dot net>: Jul 05 09:13PM -0500 >not on for a wild goose chases.   >I guess no one here knows much about solar panels or charging 3 AA cells >and what is needed.       Well, your weather station isn't a low cost unit from Walmart, so it's not exactly fair to flame the rest of the world for not having THE RIGHT ANSWER at the tips of their fingers. You haven't said anything about your electronics knowledge. If you have none, or very little, you might be out of your league from the start. Now, do you have a multimeter of any sort? Have you attempted to measure the unit's charging voltage and/or current? How about measuring the solar panel's voltage in full sunlight? How about the voltage and current (if any) it's putting into the charge controller? Knowing that information can tell you whether your problem lies with the batteries, the solar panel or the charge controller. Chances are that a schematic is not available for your station. You might send an email to the manufacturer and ask for the schematic. That little piece of paper could be invaluable for you (of someone who is able to read it and determine where the problem lies. Just guessing here, but if the unit uses 3 AA cells, that means that the solar panel will likely be rated for 6 - 9 volts open circuit, at maybe 50 - 100 mA. You need to make some voltage and current measurements and report them, then someone might be able to help you get it going again.   Cheers, Dave M

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 05 07:20PM -0700 On Friday, July 5, 2019 at 10:11:54 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > rechargeable alkaline cells.   > [1] I've been doing morning exercise walks in a local county park, > which feature a pond inhabited by a family of Canadian geese.     Canada geese Jeff. No citizenship granted...

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 05 10:22PM -0700 On Fri, 5 Jul 2019 19:20:24 -0700 (PDT), John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote:   >> [1] I've been doing morning exercise walks in a local county park, >> which feature a pond inhabited by a family of Canadian geese.   >Canada geese Jeff. No citizenship granted...   Ummm... thanks for the pedantic correction. By the gooses name, I just assumed that they vote in Canadian elections. I guess not.   I suspect the geese in question might be refugees from Denver: "Canada geese in Denver parks culled for meat" <https://www.upi.com/Top_News/US/2019/07/02/Canada-geese-in-Denver-parks-culled-for-meat/2481561766136/>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 06 02:26AM -0700 On Saturday, July 6, 2019 at 1:22:53 AM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > >Canada geese Jeff. No citizenship granted...   > Ummm... thanks for the pedantic correction. By the gooses name, I > just assumed that they vote in Canadian elections. I guess not.   Common mistake I used to make. A Canada guy corrected me when I said it..

etpm@whidbey.com: Jul 06 09:40AM -0700 >not on for a wild goose chases.   >I guess no one here knows much about solar panels or charging 3 AA cells >and what is needed. I think ogx is trolling. Or maybe is only 6 years old. Maybe both. Did I just get caught? Eric

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 06 09:56AM -0700 On Sat, 6 Jul 2019 02:26:22 -0700 (PDT), John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote:     >> Ummm... thanks for the pedantic correction. By the gooses name, I >> just assumed that they vote in Canadian elections. I guess not.   >Common mistake I used to make. A Canada guy corrected me when I said it..   The problem is that it doesn't quite work the same way south of the border. In Canada, it's a Canadian citizen, and a Canada Goose. In the USA, it's an American citizen, but also an American Elk, American Black Bear, American Alligator, American Bison, American Beaver, American Otter, American badger, etc. The distinction is perhaps understandable as the results of our previous presidential election suggests that some of these animals may have voted.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Jul 07 10:53AM +1000 On Fri, 05 Jul 2019 19:11:52 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >just fine, and you'll either be making a phone call to Ambient to see >if they offer an upgrade to the WS-1201-IP, or buying 3 more >rechargeable alkaline cells.   My weather station uses rechargeable alkaline AAs. When they failed after several years of use the outdoor unit continued to function in daylight but not in the dark. At first I replaced them with Nicads but that didn't work. I found one place on ebay selling the proper ones and they are working. Oddly enough after an extended power outage the weather station started displaying the symptoms of failed batteries. A reset of the display unit fixed that.

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Jul 06 01:50PM -0700 On Sun, 30 Jun 2019 06:07:08 -0700 (PDT), Jeff Urban >>has proper external speakers and better bass/treble controls.   >Bass and treble ? I have a design that will blow your mind. >If your public email is good I'll send you the print.   Are there graduate lab students or corporate scientists who've seen it and it's results? Who are they and what are their findings?

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jul 01 11:09AM -0700 In article <1962415547583662295.545502zekor-comcast.net@news.eternal-september.org>, >> <https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Prevention-C4.aspx>   >> Also, automotive rust inhibitors: >> <https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-heavy-duty-anti-rust-in-amber.html>   http://www.corrosionx.com/ has a bunch of anti-rust/corrosion products of this sort. They speak proudly of their special "polar bonding" technology, but the safety sheet doesn't mention any ingredients other than mineral oil and hydrotreated neutral base oil. I haven't tried this stuff myself.   For the non-working surfaces of metal tools, you might want to consider an old woodworker's trick - wipe them with some pure tung oil. This is a "drying" oil - it polymerizes on contact with air and forms a solid film, which (from what I've read) is quite a good moisture and water-vapor barrier. I don't think it has any specific oxidation-blocking chemistry (such as Jeff referred to) so it's a good idea to de-rust the surfaces before you coat with tung oil.   I've treated some hand tools by first cleaning up the rust with a phosphoric acid dip/wipe (rinsing well afterwards) and then wiping on some tung oil. A thin coat will "dry" (polymerize) within a day or two, and the coating on those tool surfaces has held up well in storage.   Note that this is pure tung oil I'm referring to - not one of the commercial "tung oil" varnishes, which often contain little or no tung oil.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 02 08:27AM -0700 On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 11:09:40 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:     >Note that this is pure tung oil I'm referring to - not one of the >commercial "tung oil" varnishes, which often contain little or no tung >oil.   Well, if tung oil works for you, then boiled linseed oil should also work: <https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil/> I haven't tried either.   If you can tolerate something that coats the surface and hardens in place, then any of the conformal PCB coating sprays (acrylic, urethane, wax, etc) should work. Some have UV tracers built in so you can see if you missed anything.   Anything that blocks moisture, stays in place, doesn't wash away, and doesn't feed the fungus, should work. For me, that's common automotive grease, especially the types intended for marine use, which needs to be waterproof. <https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+grease&tbm=isch>               -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Jul 03 08:31AM > automotive grease, especially the types intended for marine use, which > needs to be waterproof. > <https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+grease&tbm=isch>   Been using Boiled Linseed oil for years in automotive rustproofing. It dries after a bit of smelly period. Also trying Fluidfilm for rustproofing. Kinda stays moist. lanolin. Long term results not in yet.   Greg

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Jul 03 10:39AM +0200 The only thing I knew for sure was minium (lead oxyde), an orange liquid. And then a layer of painting of your choice for aspect. But I'm not sure tu use of minium is allowed today due to lead. It was greatly efficient;   gregz a écrit le 20/06/2019 à 10:14 :

Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jul 04 07:43PM -0700 >Been a long time since I used it, LPS3 dries waxy. I hardly >ever see LPS 1,2,3 in stores.   I never see it. Best place I found to get it is Zoro, their discount kicks in low, maybe 6 cans or whatever, or was that free shipping ? I got LPS2 there, I was specifically looking for 2 so that is what I got and I didn't "go shopping". I don't know if they have 3 or 1.   I don't like their new cans though. The old ones you used to be able to throttle. Now it gushes out and shoots across the room. (if you got the right tube on it, not supplied) And now I lost my syringe somewhere and I no longer know any diabetics. I work on vintage audio and sometimes you have to clean the tuning cap, but only where the contacts are, not all over. If it gets all over the plates it doesn't matter right now because it is electrically inert. But the dust it may attract maybe not, then it throws off the alignment and will continue to do so.   Same with using it on pots, no matter what you don't want that stuff dripping out of it. In the aerospace industry, which uses it, dripping is sometimes good. And the smell is not going anywhere for months. The smell, well it is not worse than WD-40 but it lasts longer. Some people use WD-40 but I won't. It is not the worst but as long as I can get LPS I'll use that.

Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jul 04 07:47PM -0700 >That's because they only stock what sells. >And what sells to the knuckle dragging morons is WD-40.   What I would like to see is some residue free plastic friendly solvent. I was getting this stuff called Ideal locally. By the smell it is alcohol based, but it works well and wrecks nothing.   But of course just like everything I like or want in this world the discontinued it. Grr. Really, you don't have time to read the list.

etpm@whidbey.com: Jul 05 12:16PM -0700 On Thu, 4 Jul 2019 19:43:13 -0700 (PDT), Jeff Urban   >I never see it. Best place I found to get it is Zoro, their discount kicks in low, maybe 6 cans or whatever, or was that free shipping ? I got LPS2 there, I was specifically looking for 2 so that is what I got and I didn't "go shopping". I don't know if they have 3 or 1.   >I don't like their new cans though. The old ones you used to be able to throttle. Now it gushes out and shoots across the room. (if you got the right tube on it, not supplied) And now I lost my syringe somewhere and I no longer know any diabetics. I work on vintage audio and sometimes you have to clean the tuning cap, but only where the contacts are, not all over. If it gets all over the plates it doesn't matter right now because it is electrically inert. But the dust it may attract maybe not, then it throws off the alignment and will continue to do so.   >Same with using it on pots, no matter what you don't want that stuff dripping out of it. In the aerospace industry, which uses it, dripping is sometimes good. And the smell is not going anywhere for months. The smell, well it is not worse than WD-40 but it lasts longer. Some people use WD-40 but I won't. It is not the worst but as long as I can get LPS I'll use that. When I want syringes I just go to the drug store and ask. In WA state this is not illegal. Sometimes I get 'em with needles when I need really pinpoint application. I had a diabetic cat and would buy the insulin and syringes without a prescription. Eric

Robert Roland <fake@ddress.no>: Jun 29 08:29PM +0200 > This will be a rarely used tool, and will be stored in my non-climate >controlled outdoor shed.   > How do I best protect the surface   Rust is caused by oxygen and an electrolyte, which is usually water.   To keep oxygen and water away from the metal, cover the bare metal surfaces with something so that the oxygen and water do not come into contact with the metal. On a tool where the bare metal surfaces need to stay bare, paint will not work. A layer of oil is often a good option. Oil evaporates slowly, clings well to the metal and is relatively easy to wipe off before use.   With metal objects that are kept at outdoor temperature, condensation is the main problem (unless you leave it out in the rain). Metal has a relatively high heat capacity, so when the weather changes from cold and dry to warm and humid, the metal stays cold for a while, causing condensation. If you can keep your tool slightly warmer than the outside air, you will greatly reduce condensation and therefore rusting. You don't need climate control. You only need to keep it somewhat warm. -- RoRo

~misfit~ <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Jun 29 11:30PM +1200 On 28/06/2019 8:55 PM, Jeff Layman wrote: > are using, but try using it with all add-ons disabled ("Safe Mode" when using Firefox, for > instance). If that allows you to see the page, you have to go back to normal mode and switch each > off add-on in turn until you find the one which is stopping the page from displaying.   Works fine here in NZ and I'm using an adblocker AND an anti-tracking add-on (Privacy Badger, I recommend it highly) in Firefox, works in Chrome too.   -- Shaun.   "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM" David Melville   This is not an email and hasn't been checked for viruses by any half-arsed self-promoting software.

"odalyst@yahoo.com" <k.ukuaortsin21@gmail.com>: Jul 04 09:08PM -0700 Working on this project concerned with rusting of satellites dishes I would like any suggestions on any material that can be used in place of the regular ones that rust. Thank you

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jul 04 11:23PM -0700 > Working on this project concerned with rusting of satellites dishes > I would like any suggestions on any material that can be used in place > of the regular ones that rust.   ** Stainless steel & anodised aluminium are two.   Properly coated ( ie galvanised and powder coated ) steel does not rust.       ... Phil

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jul 05 04:59PM > would like any suggestions on any material that can be used in place of > the regular ones that rust. > Thank you   Galvanised steel, I would suggest.       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jul 05 04:52PM -0700 > Working on this project concerned with rusting of satellites dishes > I would like any suggestions on any material that can be used in place of the regular ones that rust.   If you can wire-brush the loose rust, an application of 'cold galvanize' paint (commonly used for wire fences) will usually work. Keep it all clear of the aperture of the receiver, though, JUST paint the metal dish.

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