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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 26 08:55PM On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 15:55:24 +0000, Cursitor Doom wrote:   > Which is a lot more 'modern' than the one in the Ebay advert, plus mine > goes up to 2,500VDC.   Found it! Four hours of searching didn't go to waste after all.   http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/selectest.html   Not as old as I'd thought; 1972 vintage according to the advert.       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 26 03:52PM -0700 Cursitor Doom wrote:   ---------------------------   > Nope. I actually used one of these:   > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Selectest-Testmeter-Dlll-Old-Multi- > Meter/333272931128?hash=item4d989d5b38:g:jD8AAOSwxGBdNGvF   ** So what happened to your ohm readings ??   You did not post any.   Each junction should read about 10 to 20 ohms, on that meter.   B-C a bit lower than B-E, all the same for good devices that are the same.   FFS fess up and shame the Devil.         ..... Phil

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 27 12:31AM ** So what happened to your ohm readings ??   You did not post any.   Each junction should read about 10 to 20 ohms, on that meter.   B-C a bit lower than B-E, all the same for good devices that are the same.   FFS fess up and shame the Devil.   ----------------------------------------------   There's no point now. I have checked all 6 of those transistors and found one faulty one as described. The question in my mind now becomes, "can that one transistor (Q9) being partly shorted cause the voltage readings on the other transistors to be so far out of whack?" Now most people would probably say "just stick a new transistor in there and see if it works" but I'm going to Spice the voltage-to-current section just out of curiosity. Since I'm not a repair tech and time is not a factor I can do this. I'm lucky to have an identical board, the Y-amplifier, which is identical in every way except that it works so I've been able to get some useful values from measuring it under power and getting meaningful and sane voltage readings from it to compare to the faulty one's measurements which are all over the place. The simulation is almost ready to run but I have other things to do right now so it'll have to wait until tomorrow.       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Oct 26 06:53PM -0700 In article <qp14d5$pv6$1@dont-email.me>, >of the subject. I just find it baffling how such a transistor can give >readings like those I described, with a Rc-e lower than each of its Rc-b >and Rb-e readings!   That sounds to me as if the fault isn't in the B/E or B/C junction(s). Rather, it's acting as if something ohmic is _bypassing_ the junctions.   I wonder whether something inside the case (e.g. some form of contamination, debris, etc.) has fallen onto the surface of the die and is bridging the C and E wells (or the contacts or the bond wires).

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 26 07:13PM -0700 Dave Platt wrote:   ------------------     > I wonder whether something inside the case (e.g. some form of > contamination, debris, etc.) has fallen onto the surface of the die > and is bridging the C and E wells (or the contacts or the bond wires).     ** Crikey - another one who has no clue about how transistors typically fail with second breakdown or gross leakage.   BJTs that merely hot for a long time often develop gross leakage and reduced C-E breakdown voltage.   Take any TO3 pak silicon power tranny, put it in an oven at 250C for ten minutes.   Then test it.     ..... Phil

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 27 10:06AM On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 18:53:22 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:     > I wonder whether something inside the case (e.g. some form of > contamination, debris, etc.) has fallen onto the surface of the die and > is bridging the C and E wells (or the contacts or the bond wires).   Phil Alison:     "** Crikey - another one who has no clue about how transistors typically fail with second breakdown or gross leakage.   BJTs that merely hot for a long time often develop gross leakage and reduced C-E breakdown voltage.   Take any TO3 pak silicon power tranny, put it in an oven at 250C for ten minutes.   Then test it. "   Yes, but we're talking about a small signal transistor here and your example of a test is a little on the extreme side to say the least. Whilst secondary breakdown *can* happen with small signal devices, it's much less common. I suspect your outlook is coloured by years of seeing burned out TO-3s in audio amps, but it's nothing like as prevalent with SSTs so let's give the guy a break, eh?       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 27 04:25AM -0700 Cursitor Doom wrote:   --------------------     > Then test it. "     > Yes, but we're talking about a small signal transistor here and your > example of a test is a little on the extreme side to say the least.   ** You have never revealed the transistor's number.   The OP describes it as being a "TO8 in a tin can" which makes no sense.   A CRO sweep amplifier is not a small signal circuit, it is large signal.   Maybe you meant a TO5 round metal pak like this ?   http://oldtube.com/2N5321-Fairchild(Philips-made)-DC335-1pc.jpg Rated at 75V, 2A, 50MHz and 10 watts   The case would glow in the dark at 10 watts.     FYI:   I've seen hundreds like the above with shorted C-E - due to over current, over voltage or over temp.   Ones with low C-E resistance got lucky and were just cooked a bit.   Doped silicon is wacky stuff.   Few texts describe all or even any the failure modes.       ..... Phil

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 27 12:07PM On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 10:06:19 +0000, Cursitor Doom wrote:     ** You have never revealed the transistor's number.   The OP describes it as being a "TO8 in a tin can" which makes no sense.   A CRO sweep amplifier is not a small signal circuit, it is large signal.   Maybe you meant a TO5 round metal pak like this ?   http://oldtube.com/2N5321-Fairchild(Philips-made)-DC335-1pc.jpg Rated at 75V, 2A, 50MHz and 10 watts   The case would glow in the dark at 10 watts.   Probably. Did I write TO-8? I meant to type TO-18. It's a 2N3251 and in this circuit it's working well within its V&A ratings, as one would expect with a design by Hewlett-Packard.           -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 27 05:16AM -0700 Cursitor Doom wrote:   ---------------------     > Probably. Did I write TO-8? I meant to type TO-18. It's a 2N3251 and in > this circuit it's working well within its V&A ratings, as one would > expect with a design by Hewlett-Packard.   ** Pathetic. The max ratings of any BJT on a BJC can be massively exceeded by the simplest of accidents while servicing or even cleaning.   Dropping a toll or screw will do it.   FFS get real.       .... Phil

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 27 01:59PM ** Pathetic. The max ratings of any BJT on a BJC can be massively exceeded by the simplest of accidents while servicing or even cleaning.   Dropping a toll or screw will do it.   FFS get real.   I can't see HTH that's going to happen just out of the blue inside the sealed casing. THE FAULT AROSE *BEFORE* THE CASE WAS EVEN REMOVED.   <composing myself> Anyway, I can see your old attitude problem resurfacing and you reverting to being your usual snarky bastard self so this thread is over AFAIC. I will not be looking for any more replies from you via GG as you're not adding anything of value any more. Have a nice life and enjoy the Rugby World Cup Final Hahaha! >:-}       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Neon John <no@never.com>: Oct 26 03:24PM -0400 On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 10:38:57 -0400, Jim Horton <jhorton@nospam.net> wrote:   >one, I bought new. It would have greatly interfered plugged into the >same outlet as everything else and only produces 2" sparks but at a much >higher frequency.   That is not a Tesla coil. It is an Oudin coil. Much different principle of operation. Take the bottom off one and the way it works will be evident.   Unlike a well designed Tesla coil which won't shock you, that Oudin coil will. Hard!   John John DeArmond http://www.neon-john.com http://www.tnduction.com Tellico Plains, Occupied TN See website for email address

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 26 08:31PM -0700 On Saturday, 26 October 2019 20:24:49 UTC+1, Neon John wrote: > will be evident.   > Unlike a well designed Tesla coil which won't shock you, that Oudin > coil will. Hard!   I always understood the Oudin & Tesla were much the same. What's the difference?     NT

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 27 10:16AM On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 20:31:15 -0700, tabbypurr wrote: > I always understood the Oudin & Tesla were much the same. What's the > difference?   The main difference is no one's ever heard of an "Oudin coil" :-)         -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 27 08:35AM -0500 On 10/27/19 5:16 AM, Cursitor Doom wrote:   >> I always understood the Oudin & Tesla were much the same. What's the >> difference?   > The main difference is no one's ever heard of an "Oudin coil" :-)   You mean you've never heard of it. In the words of Jon Stewart, "You can look this shit up you know."   <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oudin_coil>       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 27 08:14AM UPDATE:   Hi Jeff,   As you're aware, PG&E has cut our power here near Santa Cruz and the hills surrounding Silicon Valley, where the fact I'm able to post this means I figured out what the problem was with the power from the generator not getting to the house. <https://i.postimg.cc/G37D8Jq6/breaker01.jpg>   I had _thought_ it was the transfer switch, simply because a couple of those SBS-2 600V 2Amp fast acting ferrule fuses were missing, but it turns out that when I replaced the two missing fuses, nothing changed. <https://i.postimg.cc/ryNkQQvY/breaker03.jpg>   It turns out that half of the part #5 was broken inside (invisibly so) <https://i.postimg.cc/qq326cBh/Generac-Control-Panel-9067-9-16345-Page-19.jpg> o Generac Part Number #74969 35Amp Circuit Breaker   I'm not sure if that's the same part as "CB1" in bottom right of this page: <https://i.postimg.cc/Zqf00Y5K/Generac-Generator-Wiriing-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-14.jpg>   But it's Generac Part Number 74969 35 Amp Circuit Breaker (2 ganged poles), which disconnects 120VAC power based on my measurements on the breaker. <https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg>   This is what it says on the circuit breaker itself: Carling Switch Inc. AA2.B0.24.635.5D1.C FL AMP 35 MAX VOLTS 227 (? hard to tell) HERTZ 50/60 DELAY 04 (? hard to tell) TRIP AMPS 43 (? hard to tell) Mexico 9513 (probably the 13th week in 1995)   Where the complete circuit diagram is outlined already in this older post: <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/sci.electronics.repair/QhSY4KWN-Kw/P-R0-y6CBAAJ>   In summary, there were two problems concurrently: 1. The fuses were missing in the transfer switch 2. Half the circuit breaker was internally broken   The result was that there was no electricity in the house when the PG&E power went out until I replaced the fuses; and there was only electricity to half the house. The 35Amp ganged circuit breaker has two "LINE" and two "LOAD" terminals, where, each circuit breaker innervates half the house.   -- Solving electrical problems with advice from helpful posters on Usenet.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 26 09:18PM UPDATE:   While these devices all come with debugging tools, it's useful to let users know that on Android (but unfortunately not on iOS), there are modern powerful debugging tools that help you debug your WiFi signals: <https://i.postimg.cc/BZrZpDyp/debug-apps.jpg>   For example, I just snapped these screenshots of one app in use today: <https://i.postimg.cc/FRqR6DSq/android-wifi-analyzer.jpg>   If you know of any iOS apps that do the same, please let me know: <<https://i.postimg.cc/0NYJn7mF/nanobridge-nanobeam.jpg>>   As it would be nice on the larger iPad screen if such iOS tools existed. <https://i.postimg.cc/SK04C6zL/ubiquiti-bullet-M2-hp.jpg>   These Android free ad-free tools are useful to test temporary bridges: <https://i.postimg.cc/vT0Krpfc/laptop-nanobeam-horn.jpg>   With and without the horns attached to the high-gain antennas: <https://i.postimg.cc/Hs0NWSKr/laptopnanobeam.jpg>   Where it's your choice whether to use the horn alone or in combination with the antenna, which turns the omni horn into a narrow beam WiFi extender: <https://i.postimg.cc/D0vfqM3p/horns.jpg>   Which, depending on various factors could be miles of point-to-point range: <https://i.postimg.cc/QMNv5FBC/typical-range-ptp.jpg> (where, as Johann Beretta noted, that screenshot is with AirMax enabled)   Modern WiFi debugging apps are useful when you set up APs at home, where, for example, you can instantly convert a dumb switch to a WiFi AP & then test with your Android phone how strong the signal is around the house: <https://i.postimg.cc/JhyCRT69/horn-to-switch.jpg>   Or, if you have a spare old router, debug the extension of its range: <https://i.postimg.cc/25NdBZ7f/horn-to-router.jpg> Given that laptops are notoriously anemic when it comes to WiFi range.   You can also debug when you add bridge a desktop without WiFi to WiFi <https://i.postimg.cc/6QJqK6Cj/desktop02.jpg>   And you can see the difference in range on your phone, when you have both: <https://i.postimg.cc/Gh22Sb2N/desktop.jpg>   Yes, there are already UNIX-like tools inherent in the router software: <https://i.postimg.cc/yx4CgWYt/mikrotik-router-config.jpg>   But they only work for an individual transceiver (radio & router): <https://i.postimg.cc/DfQJq437/mikrotikrouter.jpg>   And, they're different software for each transceiver brand: <https://i.postimg.cc/Bv0wZbDh/pbe-m2-400-802-11-wifi-setting.jpg>   Where, unfortunately, iOS just doesn't have this modern app functionality: <https://i.postimg.cc/25v3FT6S/debug-on-android.jpg>   In summary, when you set up these devices, your Android phone instantly becomes a very useful modern WiFi testing tool, where if you know of any iOS app functionality on the Apple App Store that does the same thing, please let me know as I've looked in vain for years on end for such modern app functionality to exist on my much larger screen iPads. <https://i.postimg.cc/YqTk0q1T/ap.jpg>   -- Using mobile devices to their fullest functional capabilities every day!

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 26 09:56PM On Thu, 24 Oct 2019 01:24:18 -0700, Johann Beretta wrote:   > that there will be some cases of interference, but with WISP gear (I > don't know what the cell sites are using) having a 2-5 mile range is a > hell of a lot better than the nearly unlimited range of 5 GHz.   UPDATE:   Decided to send this before PG&E shuts off the power, which is scheduled to go off for a few days in an hour or so (as far as PG&E has explained it). (California has 3rd-world power reliability at the top of 1st-world costs!)   Given this thread is a public potluck of useful sharing, what I would love is if Jeff and/or Johann could help shed a summary of light on the various "options" that are available to mere homeowners, who have Ubiquiti radios.   For example, we haven't covered the free mobile device available debuggers: <https://i.postimg.cc/FRqR6DSq/android-wifi-analyzer.jpg>   Where, as far as I know, there's nothing like these tools on iOS (sadly): <https://i.postimg.cc/25v3FT6S/debug-on-android.jpg> (I wish such modern app functionality existed on iOS, so if anyone out there knows iOS better than I do, please let me know where to get it).     Even on the router software itself, we covered some things that are of general interest to users, but, for example, we didn't mention AirSelect: <https://i.postimg.cc/kg5LKkz9/pbe-m2-400-airmax-setting.jpg>   And, we didn't dig into details of the versatile use of wireless options: o Station o Access Point o AP-Repeater <https://i.postimg.cc/htQ469sQ/pbe-m2-400-ap-station.jpg>   Nor did we distinguish between the various network options, for example: o Bridge o Router o SOHO Router <https://i.postimg.cc/gcBWpxnV/pbe-m2-400-bridge-router.jpg>   Personally, I don't know them well enough to summarize each option above, but maybe the experts here can write a quick one-line summary for each so that everyone benefits in this purposefully helpful Usenet sharing potluck.   -- Usenet is a wonderful place to share common items of technical interest.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 26 03:41PM -0700 On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 21:56:12 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder   >Decided to send this before PG&E shuts off the power, which is scheduled to >go off for a few days in an hour or so (as far as PG&E has explained it). >(California has 3rd-world power reliability at the top of 1st-world costs!)   I just spend the morning charging every rechargeable battery that I could find in my house and car. I had no idea I had that many batteries and chargers. Where did they call come from?   >Given this thread is a public potluck of useful sharing, what I would love >is if Jeff and/or Johann could help shed a summary of light on the various >"options" that are available to mere homeowners, who have Ubiquiti radios.   Pass. I'm not a salesman and really don't care what users do with their computers and equipment. I'm just the guy that makes them work, or explains to them how they work so they can make them work without my involvement. I also avoid recommending anything that I haven't personally broken, errr... tested, because of the large number of surprises I find, and lies in the data sheets. That means I don't know anything about the various "options" available to those who don't know what they want. See a salesman or system integrator for details on those.   Unfortunately, I've played with everything you've mentioned, so you'll get the benefits of my wisdom and sarcasm.   >For example, we haven't covered the free mobile device available debuggers: ><https://i.postimg.cc/FRqR6DSq/android-wifi-analyzer.jpg>   Kinda looks like a variation on the original (and still best) Wi-Fi Analyzer Android app: <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US>   ><https://i.postimg.cc/25v3FT6S/debug-on-android.jpg> >(I wish such modern app functionality existed on iOS, so if anyone out >there knows iOS better than I do, please let me know where to get it).   In the words of the late great Steve Jobs, "You don't need to know".   >Even on the router software itself, we covered some things that are of >general interest to users, but, for example, we didn't mention AirSelect: ><https://i.postimg.cc/kg5LKkz9/pbe-m2-400-airmax-setting.jpg>   What is Air Select? <https://community.ui.com/questions/What-is-Air-Select/ab1949f3-8f39-42ac-8821-df5dcb2283a1> It's a variation on having the wireless access point change channel in a futile effort to find one that is empty. The client radios will all follow the channel change without dropping the connection. Other manufacturers WAP's and routers have the same feature. I always leave it disabled because there are a small number of weird client radios that fail to follow the channel change, and end up associated with a totally different WAP or router on a different SSID. Leaving it off has almost totally eliminated the "can't connect" phone calls.   >o Access Point >o AP-Repeater ><https://i.postimg.cc/htQ469sQ/pbe-m2-400-ap-station.jpg>   Station means "client bridge". Access point means "wireless access point", "multipoint wireless bridge", "wireless router with the WAN port disconnected", or some other conglomeration of impressive sounding buzzwords. AP repeater means "interference and congestion generator with the added bonus of cutting maximum throughput in half".   >o Router >o SOHO Router ><https://i.postimg.cc/gcBWpxnV/pbe-m2-400-bridge-router.jpg>   Bridging is what ALL wi-fi devices do. It means they work on Layer 2 of the TCP/IP stack and use MAC addresses to switch packets to the correct destination. Router is Layer 3 of the TCP/IP stack. It adds IP addresses. SOHO Router means "Small Office, Home Office router". That's a commodity router with all the features and functions needed to provide business class performance and reliability removed to keep the price low.   >Personally, I don't know them well enough to summarize each option above, >but maybe the experts here can write a quick one-line summary for each so >that everyone benefits in this purposefully helpful Usenet sharing potluck.   I only share with those who can pass a credit check.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 27 01:30AM On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 15:41:08 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:     > I just spend the morning charging every rechargeable battery that I > could find in my house and car. I had no idea I had that many > batteries and chargers. Where did they call come from?   Hi Jeff,   I know what you mean about getting ready for the PG&E outage today!   Up here, we all have generators, because our power goes off on average once a month for a day or two each time (I could email you the PG&E-supplied accurate spreadsheet of just the last 30 sustained power outages, for example, which I provided to the CPUC to show how PG&E provides unreliable power at top-tier prices).   Unfortunately, the Santa Cruz Costco is out of those great gas cans! <https://i.postimg.cc/26qmJCpz/costco-gas-cans.jpg>   Luckily, at Costco in Santa Cruz by 17 & 1, the batteries are currently on sale as are the flashlights (and BR30 LED bulbs for a dollar a bulb: <https://i.postimg.cc/T1d8xxFL/costco-br30-led-sales-price.jpg?   When those 750 lumens 15K life hours BR30 ceiling bulbs are $2.50 each <https://i.postimg.cc/KjRNBsgp/costco-br30-led-normal-price.jpg>   Where I always have to get the 2,700 degrees for the wife, and the 5,000 degree BR30 bulbs for me. <https://i.postimg.cc/WzCdK5Yy/costco-br30-side-by-side.jpg>   But where I then can't mix & match in the house, since they're different: <https://i.postimg.cc/1XGzCy68/costco-br30-color-at-night.jpg>   Cost of LED Bulbs = $11.94 (plus CA sales tax of $8.32) which, of course, is imputed on the original price, but which accounts for a whoppingly huge 70% of the actual sales price at the register) <https://i.postimg.cc/kMcwZKcg/costco-led-bulb-receipt.jpg>   BTW, I measured the $6 3-pound cooked chicken since I was stocking up <https://i.postimg.cc/k5JpkFHJ/costco-chicken-at-the-start.jpg> where I separated the hot gristle and weighted it separately: <https://i.postimg.cc/LsG8yXyV/costco-chicken-gristle-separated.jpg> From the hot meat with no bones and none of the sugar/salt solution: <https://i.postimg.cc/wBR6sz6R/costco-chicken-meat-separated.jpg> Where the gristle was about 1-3/4 pounds of the advertised 3 pounds <https://i.postimg.cc/W1FR57xQ/costco-chicken-gristle-weight.jpg> And the meat turned out to be just under 3 pounds of the 3 pound weight <https://i.postimg.cc/JnKdry9N/costco-chicken-meat-weight.jpg>   > their computers and equipment. I'm just the guy that makes them work, > or explains to them how they work so they can make them work without > my involvement.   Fair enough.   I like to explain things, to people who care to learn, and I love even more being able to do stuff that people don't normally do (such as what these radios allow for).   I admit I'm terrible at dealing with the trolls though, as it's inconceivable to me that these people have zero purposefully helpful intent in everything they do.   > I also avoid recommending anything that I haven't > personally broken, errr... tested, because of the large number of > surprises I find, and lies in the data sheets.   Yup. I understand. I still remember you wrote the best description on all of Usenet for the lies that router sales pitches spew, particularly about the "power" figures, where that's where I learned only the FCC knows for sure. :)   > on those.   > Unfortunately, I've played with everything you've mentioned, so you'll > get the benefits of my wisdom and sarcasm.   Understood. And accepted.   There are so many options to these radios that I don't even know all the things they can do for us, where I mostly use them for three things: 1. Point to multipoint (instantly adding an access point to "an RJ45") 2. Point to multipoint (instantly bridging Ethernet to WiFi networks) 3. Point to point (for longer LOS hauls, where mine is 6 miles only)   But there's a LOT more we can do with these radios (e.g., they're routers too, and they are repeaters also, etc.).     > Kinda looks like a variation on the original (and still best) Wi-Fi > Analyzer Android app: > <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US>   Yup. You and I went over these apps in gory detail a few years ago.   Where I'm glad you care about your credibility, as I do, and where you listed the unique name for the WiFi Analyzer app you like, as I have, oh, let me check, give me a second ... ok... I have 6 apps alone named exactly that (i.e., "WiFi Analyzer") on my Android phone at this very minute: <https://i.postimg.cc/ZqH1RDNv/debug-wifi-on-android.jpg> o Wifi Analyser <com.keuwl.wifi> o Wifi Analyzer <com.farproc.wifi.analyzer> o Wifi Analyzer <com.farproc.wifi.analyzer.classic> o WiFi Analyzer <abdelrahman.wifianalyzerpro> o WiFi Analyzer <uk.co.soapysoft.wifianalyzer> o WiFi Analyzer <com.wifianalyzer.networktools.networkanalyzer>   And yet, on iOS, there are zero. Sigh. The iPhone users don't even realize how utterly primitive the app choices are on their beloved platform. I test software like you test hardware, so I know them all.   I just wish my iOS iPads could have this kind of modern functionality. Sigh.   (What's odd is that the Apple Apologists incessantly claim the functionality exists, and they even did a Youtube video condemning me because I proved they simply fabricated imaginary iOS functionality, as they always seem to do - which is really odd for adults to try to pull). o It's a fact iOS devices can't even graph Wi-Fi signal strength over time <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/PZuec56EWB0/rX-L9xbYAQAJ>   Here's the video Snit did about me, where it's hilarious that none of the Apple Apologists ever even _once_ looked at the Y axis! <https://youtu.be/7QaABa6DFIo>   >>(I wish such modern app functionality existed on iOS, so if anyone out >>there knows iOS better than I do, please let me know where to get it).   > In the words of the late great Steve Jobs, "You don't need to know".   You are correct that the Apple philosophy is to limit what you can do, but what's strange about the many Apple Apologists is that they fabricate imaginary iOS functionality all the time....   Why? I don't know why.   But they do it all the time. o What are common well-verified psychological traits of Apple Apologists <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/18ARDsEOPzM/veU8FwAjBQAJ>   They don't care that their credibility is shit the moment they do that. o Meanwhile, I've never once posted something that wasn't a fact (AFAIK).   I care about my credibility - which is why the very fact that there are so many trolls who infest this thread who don't give a whit about their lack of credibility astounds me - since adults are supposed to provide value.   Sigh.   > <https://community.ui.com/questions/What-is-Air-Select/ab1949f3-8f39-42ac-8821-df5dcb2283a1> > It's a variation on having the wireless access point change channel in > a futile effort to find one that is empty.   hehhehheh...   > that fail to follow the channel change, and end up associated with a > totally different WAP or router on a different SSID. Leaving it off > has almost totally eliminated the "can't connect" phone calls.   Now that's interesting.   If you were an Apple Apologist, I would have to flip a coin to see if I believed you, but since I know you, for many years, to be credible (as am I), I believe you a priori.   Thanks for that advice where I will take it to heart since you have always been credible, if a bit self effacing (I love the photo of you in your park ranger outfit by the way ... it was so 70s ... but it makes you human on Usenet!). :) > other conglomeration of impressive sounding buzzwords. > AP repeater means "interference and congestion generator with the > added bonus of cutting maximum throughput in half".   Hehhehheh... I didn't quite get all the technical jargon, but I did get the jokes as the repeater does double duty, hence half the throughput.   I've never put the Ubiquiti radios on anything but bridge or access point, so it's good information to know, where I love that these tools, like an Android phone, turn out to be so versatile that they do far more than we know at first.   >>o SOHO Router >><https://i.postimg.cc/gcBWpxnV/pbe-m2-400-bridge-router.jpg>   > Bridging is what ALL wi-fi devices do. It means they work on Layer 2   Thanks for that summary which makes total sense.   > of the TCP/IP stack and use MAC addresses to switch packets to the > correct destination. > Router is Layer 3 of the TCP/IP stack. It adds IP addresses.   I've never used this, but it seems useful if we plug it into a switch where we can have multiple devices on that switch, where, I guess, each gets its own IP address from the Ubiquiti router.   Is that about right for the router (given it's only one RJ45 port coming out of the radio)?   > commodity router with all the features and functions needed to provide > business class performance and reliability removed to keep the price > low.   What I'm guessing is that the "router" versus "soho router" option must be giving the Ubiquiti radio "more options" that are related to routing.   As I said, I have never used that "soho router" option in the Ubiquiti AirOS software, so I don't even know if I've ever needed to use it as a "Soho router" and didn't know it.   >>but maybe the experts here can write a quick one-line summary for each so >>that everyone benefits in this purposefully helpful Usenet sharing potluck.   > I only share with those who can pass a credit check.   Thanks for that advice, where you've helped me and many others cheerfully over the years, where I still remember when I was trying to change MAC addresses and IMEI numbers (many years ago when it mattered), and you advised against it (and you explained that the one MAC address you can change isn't the one you want to change, etc.).   My point is that your advice, over the years, has always been credible. As am I.   Thanks - and - well - we were 'scheduled' for that PG&E outage, but we didn't get it yet, so I had better send this off to you now before it happens.   -- Usenet is a pairing of the most helpful minds to benefit everyone who can.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 27 06:36AM SUMMARY:   What I love is that the permanent Usenet record, will clearly show ... in this thread, we covered a lot of technical ground, including: 1. Software on iOS & Android to debug WiFi signal strength over time 2. Hardware to vastly increase Access Point range over anemic consumer crap 3. Hardware to bridge Ethernet to WiFi that also vastly increases range 4. Using pro equipment that costs about the same as anemic consumer crap   All of this was done with only a handful of adult posters named below: o Jeff Liebermann o Johann Beretta o Gary o Gavin o Frank o Terry Coombs o Xeno o rbowman (only some of the time he posted as an adult) o Bod o John Kuthe   This isn't my first rodeo on Usenet, where I employed completely different techniques in this thread, in order to prove that the trolls would troll no matter how much you ignored them (see the statistics below for example).   The value here is that the permanent record showed that it doesn't matter whether you feed the trolls (as in the case of trader_4) or not (as in the case of Ed Pawlowsi & Fox's Mercantile, aka Snit), the trolls will outnumber the adult posters something like 20 to 1, as shown by the number of trolls posted by the well known list of common trolls listed below.   None of these trolls added value, nor did any post with purposefully helpful intent, simply because, IMHO, they have no purposefully helpful intent (i.e., they post for their own amusement), and, worse, they can't possibly add value since the lack the basic knowledge required to do so. o trader_4 (25 trolls, 2 adult posts) o Ed Pawlowski (10 trolls, 0 adult posts) o Fox' Mercantile (9 trolls, 1 adult post) o Cindy Hamilton (9 trolls, 1 adult post) o dpb (3 trolls, 0 adult posts) o Clare Snyder (2 trolls, 0 adult posts) o Al Gore (2 trolls, 0 adult posts) o Trumpster (1 troll, 0 adult posts) o devnull (1 troll, 0 adult posts) o Troll (1 troll, 0 adult posts) o gfretwell (1 troll, 0 adult posts) o Roger Blake (1 troll, 0 adult posts) o % x (1 troll, 0 adult posts) o Grumpy Old White Guy (1 troll, 0 adult posts)   Also, the ground we covered was EXTREMELY DETAILED, where the permanent record will show we gave settings, distances, model numbers, transmit power, antenna gain, setup instructions, power instructions, line of sight instructions, etc., such that any ADULT willing to learn from this thread, has a wealth of knowledge that is available to him.   As just a sample of the wealth of knowledge in this thread, these were posted, each of which takes time and energy & expertise to compose: o <https://i.postimg.cc/05S6CtNn/align03.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/0NYJn7mF/nanobridge-nanobeam.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/25NdBZ7f/horn-to-router.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/25v3FT6S/debug-on-android.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/6QJqK6Cj/desktop02.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/6QQ2Lt74/align02.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/905nFgxX/nanobeamnanobridge.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/bNMMZ0Nv/wifi-speed.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/Bv0wZbDh/pbe-m2-400-802-11-wifi-setting.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/BZrZpDyp/debug-apps.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/cHLndnbY/antenna.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/CLBXc080/antenna03.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/D0vfqM3p/horns.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/DfQJq437/mikrotikrouter.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/DZccY2YD/decibels.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/Dzq9Bsjs/pb-m2-400-nanobeam.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/FRqR6DSq/android-wifi-analyzer.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/gcBWpxnV/pbe-m2-400-bridge-router.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/Gh22Sb2N/desktop.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/GpCG1H3G/airviewneedsjava.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/Hs0NWSKr/laptopnanobeam.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/htQ469sQ/pbe-m2-400-ap-station.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/JhyCRT69/horn-to-switch.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/JzpthvTr/align04.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/kg5LKkz9/pbe-m2-400-airmax-setting.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/nrkz5mgs/antenna01.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/pLXCzFxC/powerbeam-nanobeam.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/QMNv5FBC/typical-range-ptp.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/s2c2L8Wd/mikrotik-router.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/sfkHW6WG/align.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/SK04C6zL/ubiquiti-bullet-M2-hp.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/tCxLW2ZN/align01.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/vT0Krpfc/laptop-nanobeam-horn.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/VvqLKQtQ/wifi.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/XJChDCPr/spare-access-points.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/yNXw0TZS/antenna02.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/YqTk0q1T/ap.jpg> o <https://i.postimg.cc/yx4CgWYt/mikrotik-router-config.jpg> o <https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/rocketdish/rd_ds_web.pdf o <https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/rocketm/RocketM_DS.pdf   In summary, we accomplished a lot in this thread, where the permanent record will show that the common trolls will troll if you feed them (e.g., the experiment with trader_4), and they'll troll even if you ignore them (e.g., the experiment with Ed Pawlowski & Fox' Mercantile (aka Snit).   The value added of this thread, IMHO, is that we covered, in detail, a method to vastly increase the range of your access points or bridges to WiFi, should you need that range, using professional equipment which costs about the same as the anemic consumer equipment costs in the box stores.   -- Usenet is a potluck where adults gather to share knowledge which is then archived in the permanent record for all to view now & decades from now.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 26 08:52PM -0700 Fox's Mercantile wrote:   ------------------------ > > good luck with that.  Usenet is the wild west of the > > internet & everybody does what they damn well please.   > I know that. You know that.   ** Quoting properly is something YOU do not do.   One should always post under the particular words of another you are responding to and also BE about them.   No context shifting, posting some idiot jibe or introducing red herring.   And the big one:   If you have nothing worthwhile to post - POST NOTHING !!   Keeping on posting to have the last word, so you never admit error or defeat, is the act of an asshole.     .... Phil

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Oct 26 05:25PM -0400 Hi,   The D40D5 is an obsolete case style, but a TO-220 transistor can be used though the pin out may be different. The specs for the D40D5 are here:   https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/130481/ETC1/D40D5.html   Many common TO-220 devices will work, like a TIP-41C or a BD-911. You may have to put sleeving on the leads and twist them around to the correct hole, depending on the board.   It would be helpful if you mentioned what product you are working on, as you might get better advice.   Regards, Tim     On 10/25/2019 7:34 PM, TheExperimenter wrote:

TheExperimenter <theexp8712@noaol.net>: Oct 26 05:38PM -0400 On 10/26/19 5:25 PM, Tim Schwartz wrote: > on, as you might get better advice.   > Regards, > Tim   Ok, I'll try it here too. I posted this in another group and finally reluctantly shared what it was for to be met with almost instant criticism, but here we go (I'm just quoting what I wrote in the other group):   Unfortunately, the exact schematic does not appear online and is copyrighted. However, it appeared in Radio Electronics Magazine September 1986, p. 42 stun gun. A similar one adapted from the article is here, but does not use the same components:   http://www.learningelectronics.net/VA3AVR/circ/hv/stungun/stungun.html   I built the gun from the kit in 1994, but my wife used it a month ago and burned it out while scaring off a would be attacker.   I originally contacted the firm that made it, but have not heard back after several weeks, so I went parts looking myself. I don't trust the ones with the puny "400 KV" modules that seem to be front and center now. This one really worked and was tested scientifically at the time which is why I'd like to get the replacement components.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 26 05:51PM -0700 TheExperimenter Moron wrote:   -------------------------     ** WARNING WARNING !!!     The above poster is a dangerous lunatic.   He or his wife want to KILL someone by HV electrocution.   DO NOT assist in the repair of a lethal weapon.   http://www.learningelectronics.net/VA3AVR/circ/hv/stungun/stungun.html   ** Jesus H Christ !!!   READ the warnings in the yellow box and the RED print further down.     ..... Phil

Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Oct 26 10:32AM -0700 On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 5:59:24 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:   > Something may have gone wrong when you removed the display from the frame. It could have been a static discharge or a damaged ribbon on (one of) the address board(s).   > If the tcon has two ribbons to the display, see if it runs with just one ribbon connected to the display (then try the other side).   > Otherwise, you really should scope the differential signals both going into and out of the tcon to see what's going on.   yep, three tabs on the left and right side of the panel are damaged. are these fixable or just trash the tv..?

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