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"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 10 06:08AM -0700 It is a wonder that there are still individuals on this planet that are OK with "doing it over" - and over, and over, and over, and over.   Capacitors made in the days of wax and paper, whatever the casing, cardboard, heavier paper, plastic, ceramic, Bakelite and so forth are of-a-piece. That one or even one hundred may be good does not make them any more reliable, or reduce the need to replace them outright - that is, if one cares about the results.   Sure, if I am repairing a shelf-queen for an individual who states, clearly, that the radio will never, ever, be run more than once per year, and then only for five (5) minutes, if at all, and if that individual will run it only on a bench with a controlled power-supply, MAYBE, I will accept instructions only to do that-which-is-minimally-necessary.   This is a hobby for me, so I do not take payment for anything I might do, and I reserve the right to be arbitrary. In general, I wish anything that leaves my hands to be as "safe and effective" as is reasonably possible, and certainly as reliable as possible. Just as I am not required or restricted to using single-weight, non-detergent oil in a vintage automobile, I am not require or restricted to use vintage parts in a vintage radio. Caps are cheap. Even to a hobbyist at $0.40 an hour, they are far cheaper than "Doing it over". Do them all, and be done with it.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Oct 10 11:03AM -0500 On 10/4/2019 6:31 PM, Fox's Mercantile wrote:   > You don't need the 10 meg ohm resistor. > This will be fine. > <https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/API-Delevan/1025-56J?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsg%252By3WlYCkU%2Fuy0w9T3GDQ2AQE7IS6yJE%3D>   Know one has mentioned it, but I have a question about the value 33uh. Unless that is a very large resistor or a very small diameter wire... I just question the value. Mikek

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 10 05:53AM -0700 There are many different kinds of cones, and each type has different options.   For run-of-the-mill AA5 speaker (cheap), they usually crack rather than tear. A soft-set hot-melt glue across the tear usually does it. Do a zig-zag first, then cover the tear completely. Hotter the better, so the glue soaks into the paper. By the way, there is nothing wrong with hot-melt glue with silicon admixtures if applied hot enough. Other than the cost. And of one uses archival-grade glues, oxidation is greatly reduced. It's only money - and six sticks will do, likely, 120 speakers, so the cost-per is minimal.   https://www.gaylord.com/Preservation/Conservation-Supplies/Adhesives/Thermogrip-6363-Hot-Melt-Adhesive-(6-Pack)/p/636315   Most cone paper is very hard to retain rigidity in use. What goes back needs to be able to accommodate the hard paper so as not to tear again on the seams.   This stuff is ideal:   https://www.amazon.com/Lightweight-Non-Woven-Fusible-Interlining-Fabric/dp/B00P1J8IJU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3   And a lifetime supply for a few bucks is not hard to take.   None of these beat professional reconing, but many applications are not worthy of that expense   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Oct 10 09:51AM -0500 > Looking for tips on speaker cone repair.   > Years ago, I used rubber cement and toilet paper on the rips. Any better > suggestions?   How about just reconing it, it's not difficult. Mikek

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Oct 10 05:45AM -0600 On Wed, 9 Oct 2019 19:46:23 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >> what?   >A friend of mine's brother in law summed it up best. >"Pay shit, get shit."   +1000

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 10 04:31AM -0700 John:   It very much depends on the specific conditions and results needed.   I have used the functional equivalent of this stuff:   https://www.dickblick.com/products/studio-pro-copper-foil/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=60514-1732&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrfvsBRD7ARIsAKuDvMPcpmzKYrBa59B-e6BXaiCqhpXqgj3JyWEN71ZpzV1NAqmveXkv6W0aAvJCEALw_wcB   Following up the adhesive with solder. Given its thickness, it will handle about any current a PC trace can handle and more - but it is thick and when applied may not allow the board to fit into its slot. My process is to use a very sharp blade to cut the foil back from the edge, use a dull version of that same blade to remove the damaged foil down to the board, apply the adhesive foil, and solder the joint. Burnish the foil for good adhesion.   I have also used the K&S line of fine foils when I had limited wiggle-room for thickness. NOTE: A fine hand, good light, sharp blade(s) and patience are necessary, as well as high quality adhesives. I used ultra-thin superglue (ZAP brand), but I had to polish out the run-off in some cases when my hand was too heavy:   https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51jO-e10b8L._SL1000_.jpg   Again, finalize the electrical connection with solder.   Being an Architecture/Fine Arts major far back in the day acquainted me with all sorts of materials that are common, but not well known - that I have adapted to this hobby.   Best of luck with it!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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