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Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Oct 27 05:46PM -0400 In article <qp50vl$1gm$1@news.mixmin.net>, > DELAY 04 (? hard to tell) > TRIP AMPS 43 (? hard to tell) > Mexico 9513 (probably the 13th week in 1995, likely original)   Arlen-   Take the old breaker into an Ace Hardware Store. You want something that has the same mounting and terminals, rated for 35 Amps and at least 240 Volts.   The 43 "TRIP" Amps would be nice, but is not the most important parameter. Hopefully you do not normally run the generator close to its limit.   I would not be surprised if Ace had the exact breaker for around $25.   Fred

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 28 01:54AM On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 19:13:27 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:   > Make that Mouser. Newark price is WAY higherr and no longer in stock. > Mouser has 10 in the warehouse   Thanks Clare for that purposefully helpful lookup, where I may have made an inadvertent typo at some point, as it's AA2 (2 pole), not AA3 (3 pole): o AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C <https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg> <https://i.postimg.cc/T2FMp20V/breaker05.jpg>   Mouser doesn't stock this part, but they do have a decent datasheet: <https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/65/A-Series_Details__26_COS_030314-345780.pdf>   I will need to call Mouser during business hours for price & availability: o (800) 346-6873, (817) 804-3888   Unfortunately, Newark also says "Not Normally Stocked": <https://www.newark.com/carling-technologies/aa2-b0-24-635-5d1-c/a-series-circuit-breaker-rohs/dp/88H2049?ost=AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C>   But at least they list a price, where, the going "fair" rate is about $100 o $ 92.45 onlinecomponents.com o $ 95.53 newark.com o $137.07 jackssmallengines.com o $233.45 ordertree.com   The question is mainly HOW do you guys get hard-to-find electrical parts.   BTW, the smoke is everywhere easily smelled, strongly in the air, with that classic wood burning smell, where the most recent time this happened was the Paradise Fire, where the smoke traveled hundreds of miles to blanket the Silicon Valley as this smoke is just now starting to do today with the picking up of the wind in the past few hours.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 27 09:08PM Where do you source circuit breakers that are NOT in typical box stores? o Carling AA3-B0-24-635-5D1-C (do you have a decoder for that number?)   PG&E has currently cut the power to us in California where this is the 31st sustained power outage in three years (of more than a day each, generally), so my generator has been doing triple duty as the backup source of power.   Over time, this 35 amp ganged circuit breaker partially broke inside. <https://i.postimg.cc/ryNkQQvY/breaker03.jpg>   It has "Carling Switch" molded on one side: <https://i.postimg.cc/G37D8Jq6/breaker01.jpg>   And this barely readable paper label on the other side: <https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg>   The best I can make out from that data are these specs: Carling Switch Inc. AA2-B0-24-635-5D1-C FL AMP 35 MAX VOLTS 227 (? hard to tell) HERTZ 50/60 DELAY 04 (? hard to tell) TRIP AMPS 43 (? hard to tell) Mexico 9513 (probably the 13th week in 1995, likely original)   I called Generac's 24/7 live hotline, but they can't give me any more information than the owners manual, parts diagram, and references 888-GENERAC (888-436-3722) extension 4, extension 2 1-262-544-4811 extension 1, extension 2, extension 4, extension 2   This is the relevant page out of that Generac Owners Manual they sent me: <https://i.postimg.cc/qq326cBh/Generac-Control-Panel-9067-9-16345-Page-19.jpg> o #5, Generac Part Number #74969, 35 Amp Circuit Breaker   Generac suggests these two outfits, who seem to charge astronomical prices: o $137.07 <https://www.jackssmallengines.com/> <https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/generac-engine-part/g074969> o $233.45 <https://www.ordertree.com/> (877) 500-7499 x1 <https://www.ordertree.com/catalog/product/view/id/2072452/s/circt-brk-35-x-2-carling-2/>   Hence, the basic question of how you source basic electrical parts.   Where do you source circuit breakers that are NOT in typical box stores? o Carling AA3-B0-24-635-5D1-C (do you have a decoder for that number?)   -- Purposefully unhelpful posts from the usual trolls will be ignored. (i.e., if there is no response to your post - that means you're a troll)

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 27 01:59PM ** Pathetic. The max ratings of any BJT on a BJC can be massively exceeded by the simplest of accidents while servicing or even cleaning.   Dropping a toll or screw will do it.   FFS get real.   I can't see HTH that's going to happen just out of the blue inside the sealed casing. THE FAULT AROSE *BEFORE* THE CASE WAS EVEN REMOVED.   <composing myself> Anyway, I can see your old attitude problem resurfacing and you reverting to being your usual snarky bastard self so this thread is over AFAIC. I will not be looking for any more replies from you via GG as you're not adding anything of value any more. Have a nice life and enjoy the Rugby World Cup Final Hahaha! >:-}       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 26 03:55PM On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 15:52:30 +0000, Cursitor Doom wrote:   > Not the same exact model as couldn't find one on Ebay to show, but same > make made about 60 years ago.   Which is a lot more 'modern' than the one in the Ebay advert, plus mine goes up to 2,500VDC.         -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Oct 26 05:10PM +1100 On 26/10/2019 2:35 pm, Phil Allison wrote:   >> ** Invest in a PEAK transistor tester.   > ---------------------------------------------   > ** Never used one - do they inject at least 25mA testing BJT junctions?   **Nope.   https://www.peakelec.co.uk/acatalog/dca75-dca-pro-semiconductor-analyser.html   12ma max.     > Useless in-circuit if they don't.   **I don't trust in-circuit tests.     > 25mA will override even a 50ohm B-E resistor   **I'm sure it will. The PEAK DCA75 tester has not let me down yet (the DCA55 did let me down once). In fact, it has been able to show very slight faults in some semiconductors, that multimeter tests did not reveal.     -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 26 08:55PM On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 15:55:24 +0000, Cursitor Doom wrote:   > Which is a lot more 'modern' than the one in the Ebay advert, plus mine > goes up to 2,500VDC.   Found it! Four hours of searching didn't go to waste after all.   http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/selectest.html   Not as old as I'd thought; 1972 vintage according to the advert.       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 27 12:31AM ** So what happened to your ohm readings ??   You did not post any.   Each junction should read about 10 to 20 ohms, on that meter.   B-C a bit lower than B-E, all the same for good devices that are the same.   FFS fess up and shame the Devil.   ----------------------------------------------   There's no point now. I have checked all 6 of those transistors and found one faulty one as described. The question in my mind now becomes, "can that one transistor (Q9) being partly shorted cause the voltage readings on the other transistors to be so far out of whack?" Now most people would probably say "just stick a new transistor in there and see if it works" but I'm going to Spice the voltage-to-current section just out of curiosity. Since I'm not a repair tech and time is not a factor I can do this. I'm lucky to have an identical board, the Y-amplifier, which is identical in every way except that it works so I've been able to get some useful values from measuring it under power and getting meaningful and sane voltage readings from it to compare to the faulty one's measurements which are all over the place. The simulation is almost ready to run but I have other things to do right now so it'll have to wait until tomorrow.       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 25 03:56PM So I've had to pull 6 transistors one by one out of this amplifier board, in the strong suspicion at least one of them was faulty. They all tested fine - until the last one (typical!). Anyway, these are small signal PNP BJTs in TO-8 tin cans. The last one checks out fine for base-emitter and base-collector junctions giving about 650mV in one direction only on the diode test setting - I very nearly didn't bother testing further at this point, given it was looking increasingly futile. Anyway, for the sake of completeness one last check across the C-E terminals and I got 295mV both ways! Double checking on the resistance range confirmed 600 ohms between C and E both ways. I've never known a BJT fail in *this* way. Has anyone else?       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Oct 26 02:24PM +1100 On 26/10/2019 2:56 am, Cursitor Doom wrote: > ways! Double checking on the resistance range confirmed 600 ohms between > C and E both ways. I've never known a BJT fail in *this* way. Has anyone > else?   **Frequently. Invest in a PEAK transistor tester. It will save time and heartache.       -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 26 09:41AM On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 14:24:20 +1100, Trevor Wilson wrote:   > **Frequently.   Well I don't do repair work for a living so defer to your wider knowledge of the subject. I just find it baffling how such a transistor can give readings like those I described, with a Rc-e lower than each of its Rc-b and Rb-e readings!   > Invest in a PEAK transistor tester. It will save time and > heartache.   It wouldn't be worth if for the number of times a 'mass extraction' like this has been necessary, which before this happened was zero.   It would be nice to have *all* the meters in the Peake range, but on an occasional need basis I can't justify it.           -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 27 12:07PM On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 10:06:19 +0000, Cursitor Doom wrote:     ** You have never revealed the transistor's number.   The OP describes it as being a "TO8 in a tin can" which makes no sense.   A CRO sweep amplifier is not a small signal circuit, it is large signal.   Maybe you meant a TO5 round metal pak like this ?   http://oldtube.com/2N5321-Fairchild(Philips-made)-DC335-1pc.jpg Rated at 75V, 2A, 50MHz and 10 watts   The case would glow in the dark at 10 watts.   Probably. Did I write TO-8? I meant to type TO-18. It's a 2N3251 and in this circuit it's working well within its V&A ratings, as one would expect with a design by Hewlett-Packard.           -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Oct 26 05:15PM +1100 On 26/10/2019 2:29 pm, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > Instead of investing in the PEAK, go to ebay and get one of the > component testers for about $ 15 to $ 25.   **I've used one. Impressive value for money.     > About the same as the Peak and one box tests solid state and passive > components where Peak sells 2 boxes to do the same thing.   **I've not seen one that can do what the PEAK DCA75 can do:   https://www.peakelec.co.uk/acatalog/dca75-dca-pro-semiconductor-analyser.html   Note the ability to display curves on a computer.   Please point me to one that can do what the DCA75 does.       -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Jim Horton <jhorton@nospam.net>: Oct 26 10:31AM -0400 On 10/26/19 5:37 AM, Rheilly Phoull wrote: >>> housing.   >> So.... what "housing" would that be, then?   > And how did the wire sealing go?   I ended up surrounding the HV exit wiring from the box with heavy duck tape, formed into a circle, and the wiring in the center. Then, I poured in epoxy to a depth of 1/2". That formed the new insulator and extra sealing. You can't see it in the video though as all that is shown are the HV wires coming through the larger containment PVC box and up alongside the electrode posts. It is only rated 40 KV TV wiring (like used for TV HV multipliers), so I have to keep my hands away or will get weakly sparked.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 27 10:16AM On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 20:31:15 -0700, tabbypurr wrote: > I always understood the Oudin & Tesla were much the same. What's the > difference?   The main difference is no one's ever heard of an "Oudin coil" :-)         -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 27 05:58PM On Sun, 27 Oct 2019 08:35:01 -0500, Fox's Mercantile wrote:     > You mean you've never heard of it. > In the words of Jon Stewart, "You can look this shit up you know."   > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oudin_coil>   Obviously. But what I said still stands. Everyone's at least *heard of* Tesla coils even if they don't know what they are.           -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Jim Horton <jhorton@nospam.net>: Oct 26 10:46AM -0400 On 10/26/19 12:33 AM, Jim Horton wrote: > housing.  The sparks you see are about 110 mm.   > https://i.imgur.com/DfaPJdB.mp4   > Thanks again for all the suggestions.   By the way, for the people who suggested retaining paraffin instead of going back to mineral oil, I am actually too curious to let that go! If I can find two HEI coils at the junk yard for cheap, I am going to simply use an old tupperware or even dollar store container for housing, and then use the stove and oven once again for paraffin potting. I'll be able to easily swap out my existing container for a wax filled one without having to build all new circuitry. So, if I hurry and pot it before it starts getting really cold here, I'll be able to see how it held up over winter when I check it out next summer. As I said before, where I have the demonstrator stored isn't under the best of climate control, so temps will range from upper 40's to high 80's depending on time of year.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 28 02:37PM On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 12:17:58 -0000 (UTC), Dan Purgert wrote:   > switched LAN ports); and the -SFP is pretty much identical, with the > addition of the SFP port, and as I recall does (Ubiquiti 24v passive) > PoE on all ports.   This is where Usenet potluck sharing shows its value: <https://prd-www-cdn.ubnt.com/media/images/product-features/edgerouter-x-versatile-poe.jpg>   So I looked up those suggestions for Mike, where the first Amazon hit was:   $61.84 & FREE Shipping o Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X Advanced Gigabit Ethernet Routers ER-X 256MB Storage 5 Gigabit RJ45 ports <https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C> Where it was interesting, in the picture to see not only a POE in (which I have on my switches also), but also a POE out (which is useful as I feel good tools should be versatile to fit many situations over the years) o Marketing: <https://www.ui.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x/> o Specs: <https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/edgemax/EdgeRouter_X_DS.pdf>   Here's a review of the EdgeRouter X (aka ER-X): <https://www.mbreviews.com/ubiquiti-edgerouter-x-review/>   The first hit of the ER-X-SFP was this: $92.99 & FREE Shipping o Ubiquiti Edgerouter X SFP - Router - Desktop - Black (ER-X-SFP) <https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-SFP-Desktop-ER-X-SFP/dp/B012X45WH6/>   > on price / performance.   > Couple that with a few UAP-AC-* WiFi APs around the house, and you've > got a great setup.   This is what I love about the idea of coupling a fast but inexpensive switch to a separate access point, such as is shown in this picture: <https://www.mbreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/ubiquiti-edgerouter-x-6-1.jpg>   Note: You can put that NanoBeam NBE-M5-16 either on the POE out port, or, you could put it on ANY port if electricity is near the location of the transceiver, where the advantage of the POE out port is that you the transceiver can be placed in a location that doesn't have mains power.   > "Cheap" can add up over time, especially if it only lasts a year or two > (I'm currently up to 5, maybe 6 years on my APs ... probably about time > to start thinking of getting whatever the new hotness is).   The one nice thing about all this Ubiquiti equipment is that they're like hammers and screwdrivers, in that whenever you have a need, they seem to be versatile enough to do the job well.   I don't have the speed needs that Mike has, but I love plugging "stuff" into a switch where, for example, this is a radio I'm erecting outside that is connected to a switch inside, which will paint the house from the sides: <https://i.postimg.cc/YSfBmPkf/dumb-switch-plus-access-point.jpg>   -- While Usenet is replete with trolls, there are some adults who share value.

Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.xxx>: Oct 27 10:16AM -0400 On 10/27/2019 2:36 AM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote: > o Roger Blake (1 troll, 0 adult posts) > o % x (1 troll, 0 adult posts) > o Grumpy Old White Guy (1 troll, 0 adult posts)   I'm up to 11 now. My goal is to point out what an arrogant, snobby, prick you are. Just the fact that you took the time to enumerate all of this shows what a simple minded senile old man you really are.   Your superiority attitude makes your life more difficult because you just grate on people. You talk about adult posts but it is YOU that is the most childish person here. I'm not afraid to call you out on it but you are afraid to look in a mirror and see yourself for what you are.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 27 01:30AM On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 15:41:08 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:     > I just spend the morning charging every rechargeable battery that I > could find in my house and car. I had no idea I had that many > batteries and chargers. Where did they call come from?   Hi Jeff,   I know what you mean about getting ready for the PG&E outage today!   Up here, we all have generators, because our power goes off on average once a month for a day or two each time (I could email you the PG&E-supplied accurate spreadsheet of just the last 30 sustained power outages, for example, which I provided to the CPUC to show how PG&E provides unreliable power at top-tier prices).   Unfortunately, the Santa Cruz Costco is out of those great gas cans! <https://i.postimg.cc/26qmJCpz/costco-gas-cans.jpg>   Luckily, at Costco in Santa Cruz by 17 & 1, the batteries are currently on sale as are the flashlights (and BR30 LED bulbs for a dollar a bulb: <https://i.postimg.cc/T1d8xxFL/costco-br30-led-sales-price.jpg?   When those 750 lumens 15K life hours BR30 ceiling bulbs are $2.50 each <https://i.postimg.cc/KjRNBsgp/costco-br30-led-normal-price.jpg>   Where I always have to get the 2,700 degrees for the wife, and the 5,000 degree BR30 bulbs for me. <https://i.postimg.cc/WzCdK5Yy/costco-br30-side-by-side.jpg>   But where I then can't mix & match in the house, since they're different: <https://i.postimg.cc/1XGzCy68/costco-br30-color-at-night.jpg>   Cost of LED Bulbs = $11.94 (plus CA sales tax of $8.32) which, of course, is imputed on the original price, but which accounts for a whoppingly huge 70% of the actual sales price at the register) <https://i.postimg.cc/kMcwZKcg/costco-led-bulb-receipt.jpg>   BTW, I measured the $6 3-pound cooked chicken since I was stocking up <https://i.postimg.cc/k5JpkFHJ/costco-chicken-at-the-start.jpg> where I separated the hot gristle and weighted it separately: <https://i.postimg.cc/LsG8yXyV/costco-chicken-gristle-separated.jpg> From the hot meat with no bones and none of the sugar/salt solution: <https://i.postimg.cc/wBR6sz6R/costco-chicken-meat-separated.jpg> Where the gristle was about 1-3/4 pounds of the advertised 3 pounds <https://i.postimg.cc/W1FR57xQ/costco-chicken-gristle-weight.jpg> And the meat turned out to be just under 3 pounds of the 3 pound weight <https://i.postimg.cc/JnKdry9N/costco-chicken-meat-weight.jpg>   > their computers and equipment. I'm just the guy that makes them work, > or explains to them how they work so they can make them work without > my involvement.   Fair enough.   I like to explain things, to people who care to learn, and I love even more being able to do stuff that people don't normally do (such as what these radios allow for).   I admit I'm terrible at dealing with the trolls though, as it's inconceivable to me that these people have zero purposefully helpful intent in everything they do.   > I also avoid recommending anything that I haven't > personally broken, errr... tested, because of the large number of > surprises I find, and lies in the data sheets.   Yup. I understand. I still remember you wrote the best description on all of Usenet for the lies that router sales pitches spew, particularly about the "power" figures, where that's where I learned only the FCC knows for sure. :)   > on those.   > Unfortunately, I've played with everything you've mentioned, so you'll > get the benefits of my wisdom and sarcasm.   Understood. And accepted.   There are so many options to these radios that I don't even know all the things they can do for us, where I mostly use them for three things: 1. Point to multipoint (instantly adding an access point to "an RJ45") 2. Point to multipoint (instantly bridging Ethernet to WiFi networks) 3. Point to point (for longer LOS hauls, where mine is 6 miles only)   But there's a LOT more we can do with these radios (e.g., they're routers too, and they are repeaters also, etc.).     > Kinda looks like a variation on the original (and still best) Wi-Fi > Analyzer Android app: > <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US>   Yup. You and I went over these apps in gory detail a few years ago.   Where I'm glad you care about your credibility, as I do, and where you listed the unique name for the WiFi Analyzer app you like, as I have, oh, let me check, give me a second ... ok... I have 6 apps alone named exactly that (i.e., "WiFi Analyzer") on my Android phone at this very minute: <https://i.postimg.cc/ZqH1RDNv/debug-wifi-on-android.jpg> o Wifi Analyser <com.keuwl.wifi> o Wifi Analyzer <com.farproc.wifi.analyzer> o Wifi Analyzer <com.farproc.wifi.analyzer.classic> o WiFi Analyzer <abdelrahman.wifianalyzerpro> o WiFi Analyzer <uk.co.soapysoft.wifianalyzer> o WiFi Analyzer <com.wifianalyzer.networktools.networkanalyzer>   And yet, on iOS, there are zero. Sigh. The iPhone users don't even realize how utterly primitive the app choices are on their beloved platform. I test software like you test hardware, so I know them all.   I just wish my iOS iPads could have this kind of modern functionality. Sigh.   (What's odd is that the Apple Apologists incessantly claim the functionality exists, and they even did a Youtube video condemning me because I proved they simply fabricated imaginary iOS functionality, as they always seem to do - which is really odd for adults to try to pull). o It's a fact iOS devices can't even graph Wi-Fi signal strength over time <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/PZuec56EWB0/rX-L9xbYAQAJ>   Here's the video Snit did about me, where it's hilarious that none of the Apple Apologists ever even _once_ looked at the Y axis! <https://youtu.be/7QaABa6DFIo>   >>(I wish such modern app functionality existed on iOS, so if anyone out >>there knows iOS better than I do, please let me know where to get it).   > In the words of the late great Steve Jobs, "You don't need to know".   You are correct that the Apple philosophy is to limit what you can do, but what's strange about the many Apple Apologists is that they fabricate imaginary iOS functionality all the time....   Why? I don't know why.   But they do it all the time. o What are common well-verified psychological traits of Apple Apologists <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/18ARDsEOPzM/veU8FwAjBQAJ>   They don't care that their credibility is shit the moment they do that. o Meanwhile, I've never once posted something that wasn't a fact (AFAIK).   I care about my credibility - which is why the very fact that there are so many trolls who infest this thread who don't give a whit about their lack of credibility astounds me - since adults are supposed to provide value.   Sigh.   > <https://community.ui.com/questions/What-is-Air-Select/ab1949f3-8f39-42ac-8821-df5dcb2283a1> > It's a variation on having the wireless access point change channel in > a futile effort to find one that is empty.   hehhehheh...   > that fail to follow the channel change, and end up associated with a > totally different WAP or router on a different SSID. Leaving it off > has almost totally eliminated the "can't connect" phone calls.   Now that's interesting.   If you were an Apple Apologist, I would have to flip a coin to see if I believed you, but since I know you, for many years, to be credible (as am I), I believe you a priori.   Thanks for that advice where I will take it to heart since you have always been credible, if a bit self effacing (I love the photo of you in your park ranger outfit by the way ... it was so 70s ... but it makes you human on Usenet!). :) > other conglomeration of impressive sounding buzzwords. > AP repeater means "interference and congestion generator with the > added bonus of cutting maximum throughput in half".   Hehhehheh... I didn't quite get all the technical jargon, but I did get the jokes as the repeater does double duty, hence half the throughput.   I've never put the Ubiquiti radios on anything but bridge or access point, so it's good information to know, where I love that these tools, like an Android phone, turn out to be so versatile that they do far more than we know at first.   >>o SOHO Router >><https://i.postimg.cc/gcBWpxnV/pbe-m2-400-bridge-router.jpg>   > Bridging is what ALL wi-fi devices do. It means they work on Layer 2   Thanks for that summary which makes total sense.   > of the TCP/IP stack and use MAC addresses to switch packets to the > correct destination. > Router is Layer 3 of the TCP/IP stack. It adds IP addresses.   I've never used this, but it seems useful if we plug it into a switch where we can have multiple devices on that switch, where, I guess, each gets its own IP address from the Ubiquiti router.   Is that about right for the router (given it's only one RJ45 port coming out of the radio)?   > commodity router with all the features and functions needed to provide > business class performance and reliability removed to keep the price > low.   What I'm guessing is that the "router" versus "soho router" option must be giving the Ubiquiti radio "more options" that are related to routing.   As I said, I have never used that "soho router" option in the Ubiquiti AirOS software, so I don't even know if I've ever needed to use it as a "Soho router" and didn't know it.   >>but maybe the experts here can write a quick one-line summary for each so >>that everyone benefits in this purposefully helpful Usenet sharing potluck.   > I only share with those who can pass a credit check.   Thanks for that advice, where you've helped me and many others cheerfully over the years, where I still remember when I was trying to change MAC addresses and IMEI numbers (many years ago when it mattered), and you advised against it (and you explained that the one MAC address you can change isn't the one you want to change, etc.).   My point is that your advice, over the years, has always been credible. As am I.   Thanks - and - well - we were 'scheduled' for that PG&E outage, but we didn't get it yet, so I had better send this off to you now before it happens.   -- Usenet is a pairing of the most helpful minds to benefit everyone who can.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 28 02:37PM On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 05:54:02 -0700, Mike Easter wrote:   > My situation is very different from yours.   Hi Mike,   I understand that every situation is different, and, one of my key points on versatility ot good tools is that even your situation is different today than it might be five years from now (where you can repurpose stuff you bought if it's versatile).   > computers and electronic devices above beside and 'around' it in > addition to being on the floor (ground/slab) in a corner of 2 outside > stucco walls which are made with chicken wire netting for lathing.   Understood. The beauty of the switch (or router) being separate from the access point is that you can place the access point anywhere you like.   One thing you might consider, Mike, which works GREAT for me because I don't want to 'climb through walls' is you can position the access point OUTSIDE the house pointing back at the house!   This idea works GREAT for me!   I'm nestled into the side of a hill, which helps, as I can see the roof from my back yard, where every instance is different topographically, but even on a flat yard, you can still paint the entire house with WiFi simply by snaking a cat5 cable to the clotheslines pole, so to speak.   The geometry works out such that one side of the house only has a wall and windows to penetrate (out here, windows are solar reflective/absorptive by code).   > So, for me, the important 'distance' from the router is to move the > radio to a location which is just free airspace in every direction > instead of being in a tight cage.   Understood, Mike, where it's refreshing to converse with someone like you who has real needs and thinks of real solutions instead of having to deal with the too many trolls who outnumber us 20:1 who simply post on Usenet for their own amusement.   Given your needs are simply that the antenna needs to be in a different location from the router/switch, I'm curious of you've looked at those routers where the antenna itself is easily detachable and relocatable?   -- The beauty of good tools is that they work in a variety of situations.

Trumpster <trumpster@maga.2020>: Oct 26 07:41AM -0400 On 10/26/19 5:51 AM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote: > Hi trader_4,   > This isn't our first rodeo with you trader_4, where you love to troll.     LOL

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 26 09:51AM On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 07:32:08 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:   > data sheet and it clearly says it's a point-to-point Ethernet bridge, > not a WiFi extender. It does not say one word about supporting 802.11x > anything.   Hi trader_4,   This isn't our first rodeo with you trader_4, where you love to troll.   You play silly games like removing the experts from the newsgroup list, and then you play your endless silly games where you expect me to teach you 802.11 WiFi when you can't even comprehend the simplest things about it including lots of details which the experts kindly outlined rather well.   If you really wanted an answer, instead of just wanting to troll, you wouldn't have removed the experts from the Newsgroup list who have better social skills than I do when dealing with common worthless trolls like you.   The experts have already explained, numerous times in fact, the naming conventions, which you've wholly ignored because you only want to troll.   I went to a lot of trouble to put the explanation into place below, so I hope you appreciate the effort, as I did it for you, trader_4, and for the public record, which will be archived 'permanently' at these sites: <http://tinyurl.com/alt-internet-wireless> <http://tinyurl.com/sci-electronics-repair> <http://tinyurl.com/alt-home-repair>   Here is my summary of what "I do" using 802.11 Wi-Fi for this one device.   The "NanoBeam M2" on the left is what this discussion below is describing: <https://i.postimg.cc/905nFgxX/nanobeamnanobridge.jpg>   It is the PowerBeam (aka PBE-M2-400) shown in many of my uploaded photos: <https://i.postimg.cc/CLBXc080/antenna03.jpg>   It's also that spare PBE-M2-400 on the shelf at top right that I'm using: <https://i.postimg.cc/XJChDCPr/spare-access-points.jpg>   Experts showed it also goes by the name of NanoBeam M2 (FCC ID SWX-NBM2HP): <https://i.postimg.cc/0NYJn7mF/nanobridge-nanobeam.jpg>   These are the 802.11 WiFi settings I'm using right now for that PBE-M2-400: <https://i.postimg.cc/Bv0wZbDh/pbe-m2-400-802-11-wifi-setting.jpg>   It works just fine, for me, as an 802.11 WiFi AP or 802.11 WiFi bridge: <https://i.postimg.cc/Dzq9Bsjs/pb-m2-400-nanobeam.jpg>   Here it is as a working bridge between a new laptop & an 802.11 WiFi AP: <https://i.postimg.cc/vT0Krpfc/laptop-nanobeam-horn.jpg>   Here it is as a bridge between an old laptop & an 802.11 WiFi access point: <https://i.postimg.cc/Hs0NWSKr/laptopnanobeam.jpg>   Here it is illustrating adding an 802.11 WiFi AP to a dumb switch: <https://i.postimg.cc/JhyCRT69/horn-to-switch.jpg>   Here it illustrating adding an 802.11 WiFi AP to an old WRT54G WiFi router: <https://i.postimg.cc/25NdBZ7f/horn-to-router.jpg>   This is the PBE-M2-400 Quick Start Guide <https://dl.ubnt.com/qsg/PBE-M2-400/PBE-M2-400_EN.html>   Nothing will work for you; but it works just fine for me, either as an o 802.11 WiFi access point, or as an o 802.11 WiFi bridge (bridging an RJ45 port to WiFi)   I'm sure if I enabled AirMax, I could use it for a long haul PtP too. o Either sans 802.11 WiFi support (for AirOS versions 4.0 and above) o Or with legacy 802.11 WiFi support (for AirOS versions 4.0 and below) <https://i.postimg.cc/kg5LKkz9/pbe-m2-400-airmax-setting.jpg>   -- Usenet is a potluck where adults try to share value among other adults (and whwere the common trolls infested this thread, something like 20:1)

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 27 08:14AM UPDATE:   Hi Jeff,   As you're aware, PG&E has cut our power here near Santa Cruz and the hills surrounding Silicon Valley, where the fact I'm able to post this means I figured out what the problem was with the power from the generator not getting to the house. <https://i.postimg.cc/G37D8Jq6/breaker01.jpg>   I had _thought_ it was the transfer switch, simply because a couple of those SBS-2 600V 2Amp fast acting ferrule fuses were missing, but it turns out that when I replaced the two missing fuses, nothing changed. <https://i.postimg.cc/ryNkQQvY/breaker03.jpg>   It turns out that half of the part #5 was broken inside (invisibly so) <https://i.postimg.cc/qq326cBh/Generac-Control-Panel-9067-9-16345-Page-19.jpg> o Generac Part Number #74969 35Amp Circuit Breaker   I'm not sure if that's the same part as "CB1" in bottom right of this page: <https://i.postimg.cc/Zqf00Y5K/Generac-Generator-Wiriing-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-14.jpg>   But it's Generac Part Number 74969 35 Amp Circuit Breaker (2 ganged poles), which disconnects 120VAC power based on my measurements on the breaker. <https://i.postimg.cc/vmTTdpdB/breaker02.jpg>   This is what it says on the circuit breaker itself: Carling Switch Inc. AA2.B0.24.635.5D1.C FL AMP 35 MAX VOLTS 227 (? hard to tell) HERTZ 50/60 DELAY 04 (? hard to tell) TRIP AMPS 43 (? hard to tell) Mexico 9513 (probably the 13th week in 1995)   Where the complete circuit diagram is outlined already in this older post: <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/sci.electronics.repair/QhSY4KWN-Kw/P-R0-y6CBAAJ>   In summary, there were two problems concurrently: 1. The fuses were missing in the transfer switch 2. Half the circuit breaker was internally broken   The result was that there was no electricity in the house when the PG&E power went out until I replaced the fuses; and there was only electricity to half the house. The 35Amp ganged circuit breaker has two "LINE" and two "LOAD" terminals, where, each circuit breaker innervates half the house.   -- Solving electrical problems with advice from helpful posters on Usenet.

Jim Horton <jhorton@nospam.net>: Nov 01 05:35PM -0400 On 10/31/19 6:05 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > It is probably showing the incorrect temperature in your mouth because > the liquid or skin resistance is causing a false voltage between the > wires without insulation.   Interesting, so even the welded wires still have to be insulated then. As you say, the reason for the faulty readings I am getting. Unfortunately, I don't have anything decent other than shrink tube and leftover high temp RTV to coat them with, so I think it's time for a new probe.   I will point out that the group has been a big help in informing me how these work and my thanks.

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