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Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Nov 13 03:54PM On 09/11/2019 09:51, Chris wrote:   > which hopefully will identify it: a quite small volume knob with a little > red LED on one edge of it which lit-up and physically rotated whenever > the remote control unit's volume button was activated.   Marantz?   Do a google for "Hifi year book", and start reading from the mid eighties.   Various publications online   http://www.worldofhifi.dk/?page=galleries&album=hele_hi-fi_og_video_revyen-86   -- Adrian C

Beeper <Beeper@NoPlace.com>: Nov 13 01:48AM -0800 I need toner for a Samsung printer that uses 406 toner. For example Yellow is CLT-Y406S   Recommended good replacement toner companies please.   Cannot afford Samsung toner.   I use Amazon to order.   Thank you.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 13 06:31AM -0800 You Tube is your friend. Use it. As is Google, also to be used.   There are several examples of how to refill using after-market toner. Very inexpensive.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 12 07:44PM -0800 > That is, unless one is Mad Man Muntz.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Damn, where have you been hiding for half a century? I recently watched a small populated PCB snipped out of a hoover, ran perfectly afterwards. Years ago I removed nearly all of an entire PCB from a Sony TV, it worked afterwards. A big complex psu pcb. A huge proportion of e-stuff has bits in it doesn't need. There's an assortment of reasons why. I don't see how you could design stuff without knowing that.     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 12 07:46PM -0800 On Monday, 11 November 2019 22:33:21 UTC, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > part gets soldered in just like "factory original;." > Then the removed parts get put back in place.   > It's not that complicated to understand "doing it right."   That approach is the right one for mil spec kit repairs. It is inappropriate for domestic kit.     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 12 07:50PM -0800 On Tuesday, 12 November 2019 00:13:04 UTC, John-Del wrote:   > The breaker was old and creaky and wouldn't reset, so my dad gave it a couple of whacks with the back the nutdriver he used to remove the back. The breaker went in and the TV lit up, but it was dark, shrunk on the sides, rippling, and making a loud hum. Just as my dad was explaining to the customer that it would need a filter (multi segment chassis mounted can electro) we heard a loud hiss for a couple of seconds and before we could pull the cord out, the can electro blew the aluminum cylinder off with the sound of a gunshot. The room was immediately filled with an acrid gray smoke and the people bailed out of the house in a hurry.   > The can let go with such force that it actually left a clean circle imprinted upwards in the metal cabinet. Given that the filter housing was lightweight aluminum and given how far it indented the heavy steel cabinet, it must have been launched with impressive speed.   > The customer did not want the TV even though it only needed a filter and breaker, and we brought them a new Zenith the next day.   I'd appreciate it if I could email you briefly about this. Is there some way to?     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 12 07:52PM -0800 On Tuesday, 12 November 2019 00:27:21 UTC, Cursitor Doom wrote: > use across UK mains of the range 220-250V and brief transients vastly in > excess of this limit can also be accommodated."   > Just my 2p worth.....   Oh, if they're x caps they're normally an ac rating.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 13 03:18AM -0600 >> It's not that complicated to understand "doing it right."   > That approach is the right one for mil spec kit repairs. It is inappropriate for domestic kit.   > NT   Like I said, you're a hack.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

-asop- <noemailrus@netnitco.net>: Nov 12 09:32PM -0500 I am looking into making a circuit that will essentially use a high current flyback transformer. I'd like to use the one here:   https://www.amazing1.com/products/high-voltage-switching-transformer-4000-turn-coil-of-37-wire-40kv-30ma-15k-60khz-large-core.html   However, after ordering from this firm in the past, after I received the part, I was able to find it online from a different firm a lot cheaper. I'd like to know if anyone knows of any equivalent transformers at a cheaper price.   Thanks.

-asop- <noemailrus@netnitco.net>: Nov 12 09:40PM -0500 On 11/12/19 9:32 PM, -asop- wrote: > I'd like to know if anyone knows of any equivalent transformers at a > cheaper price.   > Thanks.     ****Just to note that this was for a different part, not the transformer I linked to.

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Nov 13 06:37AM +0100 On 13.11.19 3:32, -asop- wrote: > I'd like to know if anyone knows of any equivalent transformers at a > cheaper price.   > Thanks.   There is a correlation between quality and price.

Jim Horton <jhorton@nospam.net>: Nov 12 03:09PM -0500 Took forever to wait on the broken fan for containment of the charcoal, but it's finally done and filtering the air well. I feel confident that with the wet filters and the activated charcoal, it will do well with the solder smoke. I've been testing it in some musty/ smelly rooms in the house and, within an hour, the odors are cleared. As incense is burned, it draws in the smoke and no odor that I can detect. I suppose that will probably lessen the activated charcoal's life a bit. However, for just under $20, I'm pretty happy. Thanks again for the help and suggestions here.

Winfield Hill <winfieldhill@yahoo.com>: Nov 12 05:33PM -0800 Jim Horton wrote...   > ... within an hour, the odors are cleared. As incense is > burned, it draws in the smoke and no odor that I can detect.   But then, why burn the incense in the first place?     -- Thanks, - Win

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