| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Nov 21 04:14AM -0800 > Received a Insignia NS-24E40SNA14 24" Class LED HDTV LCD HD TV because the power supply got lost in moving. > Am interested in any recommendations how to find either Service Manual or Schematic. But, if the power supply is missing, all you really need is a 12V power brick with enough current output? I'd start with any available power supply of 12V, and an ammeter, and the right size of DC plug, then (after finding out what the current draw is) scrounge for a suitable unit. It's likely in the 3A range, probably pretty similar to lots of external hard drive power bricks. |
| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 21 04:45AM -0800 On Thursday, November 21, 2019 at 7:14:34 AM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote: > for a suitable unit. > It's likely in the 3A range, probably pretty similar to lots of external hard drive power > bricks. There's no guarantee that 12V is what the TV uses for voltage. For outboard bricks that I've seen, most of them have been 19V and above as it's easier to buck a higher voltage input into usable LED drive voltages. Still, on a TV with this small of a screen, 12V is certainly possible. I'm surprised the back of the TV doesn't have the input voltage and polarity molded into the plastic where the port is. I just looked at ebay, and there are a lot of universal chargers that purportedly fit the OP's model, but interestingly, every picture has the output voltage intentionally blurred out of the pic. |
| Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 17 12:43AM On Sat, 16 Nov 2019 15:46:48 -0800, John-Del wrote: > Anyone who would ruin a board by removing a cap isn't a professional and > shouldn't be playing with it. There is ZERO chance of damaging even a > multi-layer board. There is when *I'm* around! Here's how I got an inaccessible cap out of this network analyser a couple of days ago: https://postimg.cc/bZYGSvnr But as you will probably gather, I'm no professional. :-D -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition. |
| Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 15 09:45AM On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 18:32:29 -0800, John-Del wrote: > If so, the first thing to get checked is the electros. I pull every one > and test them for value, ESR, and dielectric absorption. Testing ESR in > circuit on many modern circuit boards is a waste of time. Why so? -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition. |
| Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Nov 15 11:58AM -0600 On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 08:42:37 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote: >electros are primary smoothing ones for Vcc. >http://cncmanual.com/download/1647/ >John :-#)# Some Grass Valley products from the early 80s had electrolytics that would open but the surrounding circuitry would cause an ESR meter to read very low ESR. Once the electrolytic was pulled, it would test bad. |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 15 12:38PM -0800 > downloaded from the EPROM and then once again verifies the uploaded > info. > Eric I would HIGHLY recommend that you keep the original EPROMs and get some good 2716s to burn and a few spares... Please do not erase your originals! John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Nov 15 03:57PM -0800 On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 13:48:51 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote: >can do this in my shop, but I suspect we are not very close - I'm in >Vancouver (Burnaby, but no one knows that city), Canada area... >John It's a Fanuc control and as far as I know the control is completely Fanuc. I don't know anyone who has s Fluke 9010 and even though I know where Burnaby is it is still a bit of a drive from the south end of Whidbey Island. I do have other 2516 EPROMs that are useless to me that I am going to use to test the reader/programmer. The tech support guy did say that 2516 devices may not program properly but that they can be read just fine. Nevertheless I will take your advice. I can use my TEK 465B scope to check the voltages. And I read either here or in an email from the tech support folks that the TI 2516 devices are the same as the 2716 devices and I know that at least one EPROM is a TI 2516. There is a mix of devices because it seems that at least two EPROMs are common to almost every board from Miyano lathes and the other 4 on the one board are the ones I need to copy. So as I buy old boards I get, now and then, copies of the two common types. So these will be tested first along with some other 2516 devices I have from another Fanuc control. I really appreciate all the advice I get here and especially the EPROM advice I am getting recently. It really makes me feel better about repairing this machine. Speaking of this lathe, I know people who would say just replace the machine or at least the control. But I have done a complete control replacement before and it is not trivial. And Fanuc controls are usually very robust. It is just this one board that is giving me problems and I can't see how the machine itself could be damaging this particular board. I could just replace the machine completely but this is very expensive and this particular machine is just not getting enough work at this time to justify at least 60 grand to replace it. The lathe itself is, the mechanics and the servos, are in great shape. I can hold .0001" without any problems. All day. Even though the top spindle speed is only 5000 RPM most of the work I do can't be done at higher RPM because of the diameter and material of the work. Eric |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 14 11:14PM -0500 In article <ad5da084-f6ed-492e-8d5e-c989be6c3d03@googlegroups.com>, ohger1s@gmail.com says... > eport if the normal operation is restored when heated. > If so, the first thing to get checked is the electros. I pull every one and test them for value, ESR, and dielectric absorption. Testing ESR in circuit on many modern circuit boards is a waste of time. Once pulled, you might as well not test them, just replace them. You may want to test the new ones before you put them in. |
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