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jaugustine@verizon.net: Jan 10 01:06PM -0500 Hi,   I have an intermittent problem with telephone(s) NOT RINGING when someone tries to call. Most of the time, the telephone will ring. Therefore removing all devices from telephone line, then connect one device at a time to find "culprit", is not practical. Note: I removed 3 devices I seldom use from phone line. Ringing voltage increased to 81.VAC (3 devices removed) due other devices loading.   At main input jack, everything disconnected (no loads), ringing voltage was 93 VAC.   I am retired electronic technician. I used my Fluke DMM with "Max/Min" capture feature to log the ringing voltages. Twice, I was able to "capture" the NO RINGING voltages, 34.4VAC and 38VAC.   TEMP SOLUTION:   Since my answer machine is on all the time, and answers on the 4th ring, I told my relatives & friends to hang up if phone rings 5 or more times. Then call again. The odd thing (good thing), when they call back, the phone(s) ring!! So far, every time.   Did anyone else have this issue?   Thank You in advance, John

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 10 10:51AM -0800 > Did anyone else have this issue?   Had the same issue - poor connections in the Telco Demark. The 'first' attempt apparently helped the connections such that it rang through if the call-back was relatively immediate.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

jaugustine@verizon.net: Jan 11 07:13AM -0500 >> Did anyone else have this issue?   >Had the same issue - poor connections in the Telco Demark. The 'first' attempt apparently helped the connections such that it rang through if the call-back was relatively immediate.   >Peter Wieck   Hi, Here is more information (I use my Tracphone to call my landline number):   I scoped the phone line. When there was no problem (phone rings), I saw a nice 20 hz sign wave on the display.   When the phone did NOT ring, I saw what looks like a rounded sawtooth. One sawtooth for each ring period!! The amplitude of the "sawtooth" was much lower than the normal ring signal.   Since I have DSL for internet, is it possible one of the DSL filters might cause this problem?   I am going to disconnect everything in the house at main phone jack, plug in a single spare telephone. If that doesn't ring, then I will contact Verizon. I will post an update later.   Thank You in advance, John

abrsvc <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: Jan 11 04:30AM -0800 I would not be surprised to find out that the problem is external to the house. The copper line system is aging and receives minimal maintenance these days. I too had intermittent issues with my landline prior to getting FIOS. While not as regular as you, the problem ended up being a connection on the street a few blocks away. Similar problems prior were traced to the local "switching" station a few towns over.   Dan

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 11 07:27AM -0600 > Since I have DSL for internet, is it possible one of the DSL > filters might cause this problem?   <http://www.benjammin.net/www/pages/techtips/dsl-filter.html>     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Jan 10 11:40AM -0700 >the phone(s) ring!! So far, every time.   > Did anyone else have this issue?   > Thank You in advance, John   Been retired after 47 years in the business, but the ring voltage sounds borderline since the max is 105 v. However with the "tweaty birds" in use today don't require anything near that high. There is another number that is very important. The Ringer Equivalence Number must not ex ceded. The REN is usually printed on the unit providing the ring voltage. Finding it on the ringer is a different thing all together. One thing you never want to do is have an oldfashon mechanical ringer these days.   Of course the unit putting out the ring voltage could be a problem under load.   I would look at the ringer in each phone to see what it is and maybe the REN is printed somewhere.   When I started ring voltage came from the central office for any switchboards (Cord) that may be in the building. It was really "HOT" found out by standing on damp soil !!   Good luck, I always hated "stupid" problems.     KenW

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Jan 11 06:07AM -0700 >plug in a single spare telephone. If that doesn't ring, then I will contact >Verizon. I will post an update later.   > Thank You in advance, John   Yes it could be.     KenW

jaugustine@verizon.net: Jan 10 04:01PM -0500 Hi,   I am looking to buy a DMM that has a BEEPER when a voltage (AC or DC) occurs above a preset threshold.   Example: With this DMM hooked up to a circuit, if the voltage rises above 12VDC (example), the DMM will BEEP.   Does anyone know of such a DMM? Please include make and model number.   Thank You in advance, John

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 10 11:25AM -0800 Last attempt here. Parameters:   a) Full cost of the system to the consumer. That is NO subsidies so that the actual cost is used against the potential payback. Let's assume we are dealing with honest people unwilling to steal from the common Taxpayer. b) Standard current mortgage rates for a 20-year 0% down loan for the full amount. That would be 4% for a 0-down loan these days. c) I am using Energy Sage figures from their website for our zip code and energy provider, and the mortgage calculator from Bankrate.com. d) This is based on our available south facing roof (2 years into a 30-year NDL warranty, and approved as a solar substrate). So, no cost-of-land included. e) Which leads to Energy Sage stating that our first-cost, un-subsidized, would be $29,000. f) Which is based on our average power cost of $200 per month for a 5,000 square foot, three-story center-hall colonial built in 1890.   A 20-year loan at 4% would entail a payment of $175 per month for 20 years. The total cost of the loan, including principle and interest would be $42,269.   The total cost of power for those same 20 years, assuming historical increases of about 1.2% per year would be $54,466. So, the net payback would be: $12,197. At the end of the 20 year process.   Now, let's do an annuity at 2% at $175 per month for 20 years. Go to NerdWallet's compound interest calculator. The net in 20 years would be $51,826.   Effectively, I have given up the opportunity to have $51,826 (in 20 years) in order to save $12,197 (after 20 years). A net difference of -$39,628.   Now, Energy Sage states that our property value will increase by 3%. That would be roughly $15,000. Against the above figures, that really does not help, given that the $15,000 is valid only at the beginning of the process. The system becomes a liability as it approaches end-of-life. So, even that claim is a delusion.   Do the math, if you have the capacity.   Nor have we calculated removal & disposal costs at the end of the system's service-life.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 10 12:43PM -0800 > Nor have we calculated removal & disposal costs at the end of the system's service-life.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Adding in maintenance costs to the system: So many electrical connections, some will fail. Inverters will die - capacitors most likely suspects... Costs to remove snow and clean periodically. Extra insurance...   https://www.powerfromsunlight.com/operational-costs-solar-panel-system/   John :-#)#

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