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bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Jan 23 12:20PM -0800 > At this point, we are speaking to several non-profits   That's very charitable of you. Here are four charities that identify and distribute medical equipment:   1 Med-Eq 333 Cedar St, New Haven, CT 06520   2 Project C.U.R.E. 10377 E Geddes Ave Ste. 200, Centennial, CO 80112   3 Not Just Tourists 240 Roncesvalles Ave, Toronto, ON M6R 1L3, Canada   4 Medshare 701 Penhorn Ave, Secaucus, NJ 07094

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 23 12:40PM -0800 > On Thursday, January 16, 2020 at 11:40:47 AM UTC-5, pf...@aol.com wrote:   > > At this point, we are speaking to several non-profits   > That's very charitable of you. Here are four charities that identify and distribute medical equipment:   Thank you - none of which want an MRI "on the hoof" as it were. Nor does the UN or Doctors without Borders.   But we do have a local non-profit MRI provider looking.   Thanks again!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 23 06:25PM -0800 > Thanks again!   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA     Can you bring it to Kutztown next show Peter?   Heheh...

Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jan 23 09:32PM -0800 No dismantling it ?

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 24 04:00AM -0800 On Friday, January 24, 2020 at 12:32:10 AM UTC-5, Jeff Urban wrote: > No dismantling it ?   Minimum 30,000 pounds, dry weight. This is less the bed, controls, and support accessories. The magnet must be immersed in liquid helium at all times, even when unpowered, unless the unit is to be decommissioned.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 24 01:57PM In article <e1dc0633-04d8-447e-b4df-c3b90d476ce5@googlegroups.com>, peterwieck33@gmail.com says...   > The magnet must be immersed in liquid helium at all times, even when unpowered, unless the unit is to be decommissioned.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Does the helium vessel have a L N2 outer jacket like the dewars that we had our helium delivered in to the physics lab, and thus requiring an on-going supply of both (liquified) gasses?   Mike.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 24 07:10AM -0800 https://www.cryofab.com/products/cmsh_series   Transportation and storage as above.   Liquid helium is considered a super-fluid inasmuch as it climbs walls and will go through molecular-size openings.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

James Reaper <jreap6678@aoldot.net>: Jan 23 02:49PM -0500 On 1/18/20 4:11 PM, KC JONES wrote: > years, but recently brought it out to sterilize a room where a person > had been sick.  However, I don't know if it still emits the germ killing > UVC spectrum.  What's a quick way I could tell for sure?  Thanks.   Once upon a time, I was part of a test study on mercury vapor lamps with the outer envelopes broken so only the inner, strong UVC element illuminated. Both 175 and 400 watt bulbs were tested. Can't speak much for UVC detection without instrumentation, but a quick test might be illuminating small insects, like crickets or flies. If they die quickly, there's 99% certainty that you have UVC.

James Reaper <jreap6678@aoldot.net>: Jan 23 03:07PM -0500 On 1/18/20 4:11 PM, KC JONES wrote: > years, but recently brought it out to sterilize a room where a person > had been sick.  However, I don't know if it still emits the germ killing > UVC spectrum.  What's a quick way I could tell for sure?  Thanks.   Something I've always wondered about were Tesla coils. When I was a kid, I built one and let it run arcing from HV to ground for nearly an hour. When my parents arrived home from work, the house was so full of ozone that we all had to leave for a couple of hours with the windows wide opened to air out the house. Would that much ozone have killed surface bacteria as a germicidal lamp would have?

danny burstein <dannyb@panix.com>: Jan 23 08:27PM [snip]   >Once upon a time, I was part of a test study on mercury vapor lamps with =   >the outer envelopes broken so only the inner, strong UVC element=20 >illuminated.   *whew*, thanks.   I was 99 percent sure I remembered those days of mercury arc lamps needing that extra, outer, envelope 'cuz worries about the UV intensity, and even that Duro Test had marketed a "safety lamp" ("bulb") that, if the outer glass broke, would shut itself down.   (this would have been the 1970's)   But none of the yung'uns around me believe that was ever teh case.   Any idea how they cleared up that problem? I replaced a bunch of legacy mercury lamps about two decades ago and there weren't any warnings on the packages.   Thanks.   -- _____________________________________________________ Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key dannyb@panix.com [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

James Reaper <jreap6678@aoldot.net>: Jan 23 03:48PM -0500 On 1/23/20 3:27 PM, danny burstein wrote: > of legacy mercury lamps about two decades ago and there weren't > any warnings on the packages.   > Thanks.   Odd. I still have an outdoor mercury lamp on my property, a 250 W lamp. I just replaced it last year and the UV warnings were still present concerning breaking the outer envelope. So they would definitely still emit UVC if the envelope was broken.   Ways of getting around the UVC hazard included shutdown mechanisms so that the lamp extinguished when the envelope was broken, providing a lamp housing that has a glass cover (like street lights have), or switching out to something different altogether where the UVC hazard doesn't exist such as LED. There's been an ongoing effort to outlaw the mv lamps.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 23 12:58PM -0800 On Thursday, January 23, 2020 at 3:07:39 PM UTC-5, James Reaper wrote:   > ozone that we all had to leave for a couple of hours with the windows > wide opened to air out the house. Would that much ozone have killed > surface bacteria as a germicidal lamp would have?     http://www.ozoneapplications.com/info/ozone_bacteria_mold_viruses.htm   It takes a LOT. Once that level is reached, however, the killing does not take a huge amount of time. And ozone concentrations will vary by the amount diffused and the amount generated as it is very short-lived.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

danny burstein <dannyb@panix.com>: Jan 23 09:05PM >lamp. I just replaced it last year and the UV warnings were still >present concerning breaking the outer envelope. So they would >definitely still emit UVC if the envelope was broken.   Amusingly the ones I purchased didn't have thos waarning.   I think... they were 185 watt replacements I picked up at Home Depot. (No one else had them).   >switching out to something different altogether where the UVC hazard >doesn't exist such as LED. There's been an ongoing effort to outlaw the >mv lamps.   New fixtures/ballasts have been a no no for a decade or so by now, and replacement lamps have been attriting down.   About ten years ago I found a drop-in flourescent replacement for the aforementioned 185 watter. The power factors/wave forms/ how it worked... made my head hurt, but somehow it did.   (We've since swapped the whole fixture for an LED unit).   Oh, here we go:   [Duromex, the successor to Duro Test, website]   "1975: Securilux (Safe-T-Vapor)   "This was the first mercury lamp with a safety mechanism that extinguished the arc tube in case of an exterior light bulb smash. "   http://duromex.com/about   -- _____________________________________________________ Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key dannyb@panix.com [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jan 23 03:53PM -0800 On Thursday, January 23, 2020 at 12:27:08 PM UTC-8, danny burstein wrote:     > (this would have been the 1970's)   > But none of the yung'uns around me believe that was ever teh case.   > Any idea how they cleared up that problem?   Some mercury lamps have quartz envelopes, that take the high temperature, but those ALSO pass UV. Most low-intensity lamps don't need quartz. and glass that is opaque to UV is easily formulated. Welder's helmets always have such a glass filter (in addition to the visible-light-attenuating dark ones).   Heck, some halogen incandescents need a safety glass pane, as well.

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Jan 24 01:24PM On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 15:07:35 -0500, James Reaper >ozone that we all had to leave for a couple of hours with the windows >wide opened to air out the house. Would that much ozone have killed >surface bacteria as a germicidal lamp would have?   I did the same thing. When my mother got home she said the house smelled like the seaside. My Tesla coil was used a few times just to make the seaside smell. I don't know if it killed all the bacteria.   Steve   -- http://www.npsnn.com

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 24 06:46AM -0800 On Friday, January 24, 2020 at 8:25:14 AM UTC-5, Stephen Wolstenholme wrote:   > Steve   > -- > http://www.npsnn.com   There are people who use an ozone generator to get rid of mold and mildew smells, especially in warehouses. There are others who claim it it works by numbing your nose rather than killing the actual mold.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 23 01:36PM -0600 On 1/22/2020 8:15 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   >> Now, I have cut the cord and have nice system for my antenna, and a >> separate coax to my modem.   > Modem as in cable modem? Just curious.   It' a modem I connect to the cable to get internet. Cisco DPC3010, my router is a TP-Link AC1900. My daily driver is a 1997 Toyota T-1000, Ok I'm just playin with you on the last one!   > installed F connectors. Viewing the scene with my crystal ball > results in the same image, thus confirming my diagnosis. In order to > fix it, simply replace everything.   Still in troubleshooting mode, replace everything is last resort. First thing, I'm going to try is reducing the signal strength. I know that is not high on the probable list, but I got other feedback that over driving a modem can slow them down.   > to work correctly. Hmmm... I can't find it again on eBay. This looks > like a better version: > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/RG59-RG6-Universal-Adjustable-Compression-Crimp-Tool-Connector-CATV-RCA-BNC-F/232216467664>   It's always something.   >> company uses for direct burial.   > Orange is for TEMPORARY cable drops. > <https://forums.xfinity.com/t5/My-Account/ANSWERED-Got-an-Xfinity-orange-cable-in-your-yard/ta-p/2941167>   Around here it gets buried after laying in the yard long enough to generate enough complaints. After I cut my neighbors cable while installing a sprinkler line, ( I called to report it, they said they'd wait until it came from their customer.) It took almost a year for enough water getting in to generate the complaint. Then they laid the oraange wire from the box in my yard across the neighbors driveway and into the house. We mowed over it for 9 months before I buried the part in my yard, and it still runs across the neighbors drive more than 2 years later.   > usually easy to fix. Tear it apart, lift the lid on the tuner, survey > the damage, and solder it back together. Extra credit for securing > the F-connector with epoxy (or hot melt glue).   I fixed more than 100 of those torn out F connectors on VCRs.   > more intelligible if you specify which connector. I'm assuming the > F-connector, but it looks like the unspecified modem is actually a > cable router or "gateway".   You need a mind reading course! No it was the ethernet connectors, it has 4 of them. I talked with the neighbor today, he said they actually tried all 4 connectors and all 4 did not work properly.   >> cable truck, so I wondered over to neighbors to supervise. ;-)   > Got it. The garbage attracted the cable truck. I'll try that next > time the cable guy is late.   I was at the house when my neighbor called the cable company, they went through several procedures trying to fix his problem and couldn't. They said because your such a loyal customer (ahem) we want to send a truck out today, will between 3 and 6 be OK. Great. So they never showed up. He called the next day and they did show up.   >> I didn't get a good look. By the time we got to a 300MHz bump it was >> getting dark.   > At what temperature do you start functioning normally?   Do you mean now or 30 years ago? My wife might even question if I ever function normally.       >> He only has one TV and his wife's cellphone to deal with.   > He has 3 Amazon Firesticks. One for the TV, but they don't fit in > cellphones. Where to the other 2 Firesticks go?   OK, I gave out useless info, I'm the one with 3 Firesticks. He has one TV with a firestick and his wife's phone, also has a laptop, but not used much.   > change or reset. The unspecified cable company has no way to know if > the modem is at the neighbors house or at your house, as long as > you're both on the same ISP, CMTS, and segment.   WE aren't with the same company. > that might be important. If not, please cease mentioning your setup > as it just confuses the issue. We're trying to troubleshoot the > neighbors networks, not yours.   My neighbor is a Southerner and talks pretty slow, sometimes hard to understand. I played interference to help the cable people on the phone. When I was showing him how to use the remote on the Firestick, when we got to Alexa, I said, "push that button and name a movie." He pushed it and in his Southern drawl named what I expect was a movie. I reacted by saying, "give me that remote, she's never going top understand what you said," and she didn't. I was a little embarrassed at what I said and his girlfriend/wife was sitting in her seat laughing about it. Other than that, nothing to add at this time, he gets Mondays off, so, I'll know something after that. Thanks for your patience and your fountain of unending knowledge, Mikek

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Jan 23 12:02PM -0800 On Wednesday, January 22, 2020 at 9:15:42 PM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > >Ya, I have one similar in style to the Apica, If we install new cable, > >we can use it.   > The Aprica compression connector tool is a problem.   I've often wondered why techs hardly ever use crimp tools for F connectors when they're finished hooking up coax. Then, everything is well shielded from the outside stuff. Unless they lost one and don't want to buy a new compression tool.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 23 01:19PM -0800 On Thu, 23 Jan 2020 12:02:50 -0800 (PST), bruce2bowser@gmail.com wrote:   >Then, everything is well shielded from the outside stuff. >Unless they lost one and don't want to buy a new >compression tool.   Y're mixing up crimp and compression connectors. This is a crimp connector, which should be avoided: <https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0775/8455/products/200-010_1024x1024.jpg> If you see one of these, cut off the crimp connector and replace it with a compression connector.   These are various Belden/T&B compression connectors. The video explains how it works: "Belden SNS1P6U Ultimate F-Type Snap & Seal - RG6 Universal" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW3L61ydvzM> (1:41) Unless I run into something really strange, I use the "red" compression connectors, which fit most of the common stuff. Notice in the video how the metal connector and the plastic sleeve are compressed with the tool to grip the coax. That's what holds the connector together so that no crimp ring is required.   The strength of a compression connector is good enough to survive someone tripping over the cable and possibly survive a 2 year old with a bad case of "grabby paws". Unfortunately, it's also stronger than whatever holds the F-connector in place inside the set top box, modem, DVR, TV, etc. The result is instead of the connector sacrificing itself so that the set top box will survive, the F-connector receptacle breaks from its mounting inside the tuner can. I carry a few of these push-on adapters, which I install in locations where I'm sure the resident big foot is going to trip over the cable. <https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/SiYAAOSwZVlXsvES/s-l300.jpg>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Jan 24 08:03PM +1100 >Cable guy did suggest he try a new modem.   >I'm going to try a few things before he spends his money. > Mikek   You use words oddly. Please get someone to redo your post.

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Jan 24 08:07PM +1100 > Now, I have cut the cord and have nice system for my antenna, and a >separate coax to my modem.   That makes no sense.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 24 07:53AM -0600 On 1/24/2020 3:07 AM, Lucifer wrote:   >> Now, I have cut the cord and have nice system for my antenna, and a >> separate coax to my modem.   > That makes no sense.   You snipped the context. 5 new coax cables were run from the outside through the attic to F connectors in my house. When I cut the cable, I repurposed 4 of these coax cables for use with my antenna. The fifth coax I connected to the cable and it runs to my modem for my internet service.   Mikek

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 24 08:00AM -0600 On 1/24/2020 3:03 AM, Lucifer wrote:   >> I'm going to try a few things before he spends his money. >> Mikek   > You use words oddly. Please get someone to redo your post.   If you want to pick out any particular lines I could probably help you. If it's just the last few lines,   >> Would overloading the input of a modem cause it be slow?   The signal level going into the modem was right at the top of the recommended high, so I want to know if overloading the modem will cause it to run slow.   >> Cable guy did suggested he try a new modem. >> I'm going to try a few things before he spends his money.   Rather than have my neighbor go out and spend his money on a new modem, I want try a few things before he spends his money on a new modem.   Mikek

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 23 10:57AM -0800 On Monday, January 20, 2020 at 1:15:44 PM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > Jeff-1.0 > WA6FWi > http:foxsmercantile.com   And it contained this little gem, which you all probably knew, but was a surprise to me:   ***** A very good technical explanation for variances in AC voltage measurements was put out by Agilent (formerly HP), who makes their own meters ranging from handhelds to lab equipment. I was amazed to read that meter manufacturers calculate True RMS by reading the heat produced by the AC voltage (4 page PDF file): *****   I could not get to the Agilent PDF just now.

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jan 23 07:45PM -0800 On Thursday, January 23, 2020 at 1:57:31 PM UTC-5, Tim R wrote: > (formerly HP), who makes their own meters ranging from handhelds to lab equipment. I was amazed to read that meter manufacturers calculate True RMS by reading the heat produced by the AC voltage (4 page PDF file): > *****   > I could not get to the Agilent PDF just now.   There are ICs that calculate RMS for test equipment.   Agilent changed their name to Keysight several years ago.

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