sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Apr 29 02:06PM -0500 On 4/19/2020 1:19 AM, Mike S wrote: > support, covered that with black tape, used the headphones several > times, problem solved and it's not too noticeable. Thanks for your > detailed reply.   I visited my daughter last week and her Shark vacuum had broke at the neck of the beater bar. (something about gravity and a stairway) No real material to get any screws or pins into it. I used the Super Glue as listed above, > https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-Activator-681925/dp/B000Y3LHXW   to preliminarily hold the parts in position. Then after spending the time necessary to sand all the areas where I was to apply the two part epoxy made for plastic. > https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50133-Tan-1-Pack/dp/B009EU5ZNO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=NQTCKKXR8MHU&dchild=1&keywords=jb+weld+plastic+bonder&qid=1588186525&s=hi&sprefix=Jb+weld%2Ctools%2C352&sr=1-1     I epoxied as much area as I could. After a full days cure, she vacuumed the whole house and it survived. I left specific instructions to let me know if it breaks. If it holds up, I'll call the glue and epoxy winners, because that is a high stress point of the vacuum. Mikek

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Apr 29 08:22PM -0700 On 4/29/2020 12:06 PM, amdx wrote: > know if it breaks. If it holds up, I'll call the glue and epoxy winners, > because that is a high stress point of the vacuum. >                               Mikek   Nice! (gravity and a stairway : lol)

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Apr 28 06:29AM +1000 > Suggestions for alternatives or other potential suppliers are welcome. > Thanks > J   **HCK make an excellent range of probes. Dunno if they're available in your local area though. I've been using them for quite a few years and have never had a failure (my stupidity excepted). Their hard steel probes are particularly useful, as they can pierce insulation (and fingers!).   https://www.wagneronline.com.au/4mm-safety-probe-test-lead-hck-silicone/test-leads-hck-silicone/test-measure/tools-test/6753/fl/   https://www.wagneronline.com.au/4mm-plug-on-test-probe-hck-silicone/test-leads-hck-silicone/test-measure/tools-test/6762/fl/   https://www.wagneronline.com.au/4mm-safety-hook-grip-hck-silicone/test-leads-hck-silicone/test-measure/tools-test/6806/fl/     -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 27 03:37PM -0700 There is always the Mother Ship:   https://www.fluke.com/en-us/products/accessories/test-leads   I had one (1) that failed, when I was working overseas. I emailed Fluke with a picture, and a complete set of replacements arrived about 10 days later. Not just the one.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Apr 27 11:14PM > Suggestions for alternatives or other potential suppliers are welcome. > Thanks > J   Simpson still pushes the screw on attachment probes. Their stuff is real "classic" though and I have no idea what if any safety category they meet, if any.   Real nice flexible rubber leads and solid probes. None of that modern stuff that starts to warp or get dirty easy.

Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Apr 28 01:05AM -0700 You might want to check ummm...   https://www.tequipment.net   Their front page is fucked up but they do have some nice probes.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

jjhudak4@gmail.com: Apr 27 09:23AM -0700 I have a few Fluke DMMs that I want to get backup probes for. My ideal probe is one that will accept screw-on accessories such as various size alligator clips, micro-clips, and mounting lugs. A 'kit' with all of these accessories would be idea. Would like the probes to be decent quality. The closer to OEM Fluke or Pomona quality with more reasonable prices is what I have in mind.   Most of the aftermarket stuff on ebay seems to be junk. I did some searching on aftermarket probe sets and found this one which seems to be a good match to what I am looking for. https://probemaster.com/8000-series-kits/ I've checked some of the electronic suppliers that I know of (Globe, Newark, etc.) and have found a few options but not sure how good they are.   Suggestions for alternatives or other potential suppliers are welcome. Thanks J

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Apr 27 12:29PM -0400 > Suggestions for alternatives or other potential suppliers are welcome. > Thanks > J   The Probemaster ones are _gorgeous_, and insanely cheap for what you get. The wires have very supple silicone insulation, not the cheap PVC crap you get on the Chinese ones. The gold plating also holds up well, though it does eventually wear out on the sharp points.   Other than that, they stink. ;)   I don't use anything else on my meters.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 26 10:41AM -0700 On Sun, 26 Apr 2020 12:35:01 -0400, Bob Engelhardt   >It was 10 years old & much used, so I got my money's worth. It was also >a favorite tool, so another one is going to be ordered; a >latest-and-greatest one.   This tool? <https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Drivers/2450-20> The 2450-20 is the original M12 model. The 2450-22 is the laster Gen 2 model.   The switch and PCB assembly is available: <https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/media/diagram/files/2450-20_b59a.pdf> <https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/media/diagram/files/2450-20_b59b.pdf> <https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/media/diagram/files/2450-20_b59c.pdf> Note that there are 3 models. 2450-20 B59A 2450-20 B59B 2450-20 B59C I'm not sure I have the correct diagram to match your trunacted model number. The PCB (item #5) costs as much as a replacement driver: <https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=14-46-1705>   Maybe you should consider buying a parts driver and swap PCB's? <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-12v-1-4-Cordless-Hex-Impact-Driver-2450-20-M12-for-Parts-or-Repair/153907966118> $24 is too much. Off the seller some lesser amount and shipping. He says it "doesn't work" which can mean anything. Ask for details.   More of the same: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/MILWAUKEE-2462-20-M12-Li-Ion-1-4-Cordless-Hex-Impact-Driver-Tool/223983067307> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-2450-20-M12-12v-Impact-Driver-Bare-Tool/274303290853> <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=milwaukee+m12+2450-20> (dig through the listings).   Good luck. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Apr 27 09:46AM -0400 On 4/26/2020 1:41 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > <https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Drivers/2450-20> > The 2450-20 is the original M12 model. The 2450-22 is the laster Gen > 2 model. ....   2450 is the base model number. The -20 or -22 means bare tool or kit. The 2450 is not longer available - the 2462 is its direct descendant. The 2553 is the latest and greatest.   The 2450 PCB part - $60 A 2462-20 (Amazon) - $50 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6JRJUO/ A 2553-20 (Amazon) - $99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZYMK1W/   My nature is reactionary: the old has been good, why do I need the new? But I fight that & in this case I'm going for the 2553.   > Maybe you should consider buying a parts driver and swap PCB's? > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-12v-1-4-Cordless-Hex-Impact-Driver-2450-20-M12-for-Parts-or-Repair/153907966118> > ... He says it "doesn't work" which can mean anything. Ask for details. ...   I volunteer at Habitat and Milwaukee has a deal with them whereby Habitat gets tools from the Milwaukee return/refurb facility for next to nothing. I get to repair some of those tools and the majority have bad switch-PCB assemblies. So I would not ever take a chance with a doesn't-work eBay tool.

Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Apr 20 12:55PM On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 04:46:45 -0700 (PDT), John-Del wrote: >> To my surprise none of the usual electron parts houses have them (Mouser, Digikey, avnet, allied, newark, etc.) Amazon has them ranging in price from $6 to $10 from varying sources and from what I see in the reviews, all parts are of questionable quality. To my surprise, they are available through Walmart! >> Not sure where to get the OEM part - suggestions? pointers appreciated.   > Walmart is a poor man's Amazon. Many of the things sold on Walmart's online site are deliverd from someone's basement, and I don't know if Walmart would offer the same protections as Amazon, as good or as bad as that might be.   Walmart == Made In China Store   Even those who lower their expectations are often disappointed.

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 20 12:25PM -0700 On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 14:20:27 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >On 4/20/20 1:57 PM, discounts@iphone.bell.com wrote:   >> *** iPhone SUPER-SPECIAL-DISCOUNT 80% OFF   >Go fuck yourself I randomly checked several newsgroups for sample messages and the above message and the covid message were the only messages. It's like these assholes posted to every newsgroup. What a waste of time. Eric

Rob <nomail@example.com>: Apr 21 03:07PM > On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-7, pf...@aol.com wrote: >> Registrant Phone: +1.4806242599 > Is that telephone number really complicit with this spam? If so, we all should call it and personally let them know how grateful we are.   Looking at the URL structure this is some service (grex.com) that hosts user accounts (~henced) where someone has hosted a page. That someone may not at all be related to this spam, it may be a hacked account.   The article was posted on usenet via another service, but that account already has been shut down. Of course it will be quite easy to create a new account for the next run.

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Apr 18 11:21PM -0700 <snip> >   As you are aware, it breaks where at the point where it needs the > most reinforcement.   >                                               Mikek   Thanks Mikek, that would make for a very strong joint, if my current fix breaks I'll see if there's enough plastic material to support this approach. Cheers.

Mike Mocha <mocha@mailexcite.com>: Apr 20 07:04AM Wow! I just got back on Usenet after literally 18+ years and it's great to see this is one of the last text groups still active with real people talking! Good to see Sam Goldwasser and others still on here. Sam incorporated a "tip" I made regarding vacuum tube televisions on his TV FAQ back in 1997! I had a lot of great memories lurking and posting in this group from 1995 to 1997. Thanks all!

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Apr 26 12:35PM -0400 On 4/17/2020 5:55 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote: > So I opened it up to see what I could see: > https://imgur.com/9ccfxL0 > ...   With nothing to lose, I started isolating elements by disconnecting the trigger wires. There was no change in the leakage current - it wasn't the switch that was bad. In addition to the heavy motor-current wires going to the PCB, there was a much lighter (24ga maybe) wire. Unsoldering that stopped the leakage. IOW, the leakage was internal to the board.   It was 10 years old & much used, so I got my money's worth. It was also a favorite tool, so another one is going to be ordered; a latest-and-greatest one.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Apr 24 08:51AM +1000 On 23/04/2020 9:11 am, JC wrote:   >> Ideas?   > The service manual is available online and has a pretty comprehensive > test for out of paper symptoms.   **Sweet. Thanks for the tip. I'll look around now.     -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

PietroVero <pietrovero12345@gmail.com>: Apr 24 02:40PM +0200 Fri, 24 Apr 2020 08:51:23 +1000: Trevor Wilson:     > -- > Trevor Wilson > www.rageaudio.com.au   https://kmbs.konicaminolta.us/kmbs/support-downloads/user-manuals

three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Apr 24 04:39AM -0700 Link points to a website that is under construction???

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Apr 23 05:44AM > switch may close within milliseconds of that. So what is the time constant > of the decaying field in the transformer? And what hapens if you give that > field a shorted winding?   The delay in the mechanical timing of those switches is clearly always enough. If there was overlap, you'd blow the fuse every time.   fun fact, the monitor swtich as it's being called here is these days (at least the past decade if not longer) is a non-snap action switch in a standard microswitch form factor. The only rating is 1 use and enough current to blow the mains fuse. They never switch any load during the life of the microwave unless there is a fault condition. Microwave ovens are sort of like cars and have every possible extra cost engineered out. Polaroid instant cameras were like that too. It was amazing how many parts they tweaked out of the design.

우하하 <hj20160527@gmail.com>: Apr 22 09:07PM -0700 i want Solution Manual Electronic Principles (8th Ed., Albert Malvino, David Bates) .my email id is hj20160527@gmail.com   thank you:)

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 23 12:32AM -0500 On 4/22/20 11:07 PM, 우하하 wrote: > i want Solution Manual Electronic Principles (8th Ed., Albert > Malvino, David Bates) .my email id is hj20160527@gmail.com   > thank you:)   Please pay attention. This asshole doesn't read the newsgroups he spams. You have to reply via email to one of several aliases he uses.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Apr 23 08:00AM +1000 Normally, I would have just thrown this monster out. However, it was given to me by a mate, along with a whole bunch of consumables. Then, of course, I accidentally caused the thing to perform a test print. WOW! Best colour laser printer I've ever seen. The internal firmware includes some photographs and they are excellent. So, I'm gonna try to make it work.   Here's the problem. On multiple computers and different operating systems, the same issue is reported. Windows reports that the printer is out of paper. I loaded both bins with paper. Still no luck. Yet the printer performs it's own test print.   Ideas?   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Apr 22 07:11PM -0400 Trevor Wilson wrote: > out of paper. I loaded both bins with paper. Still no luck. Yet the > printer performs it's own test print.   > Ideas?   The service manual is available online and has a pretty comprehensive test for out of paper symptoms.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Apr 22 08:21AM -0400 On 2020-04-22 00:39, Mike Mocha wrote: > still is. Now I have 635/20 Mbps cable service which is like a 1.2 > million percent increase in speed from the dial up days and a reasonably > cheap Usenet provider that I pay extra for.   Eternal September and aioe have been free for a long time.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 22 04:20AM -0700 > Is that telephone number really complicit with this spam? If so, we all should call it and personally let them know how grateful we are.   That number is a Safelite Auto Glass outlet in Texas, I believe. Call it anyway as when a business is forced to change its number due to spammers, they tend to complain. And that could only do some good.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 21 11:27AM -0700 On 2020/04/18 1:00 a.m., Jeff Urban wrote: >> Indeed, my mistake   > Well thank you very much.   > Looks like your best bet is to just put some silicon (diode) in series with CR107. I would recommend a pot for R127 so you can trim the bias. Forget specs just make it the same as the other channel.   There was a 75R pot added in later amps of the same series with R127 reduced slightly in value. I am considering that.   Any particular silicon diodes?     > And that is 47 volts supply ? That means 23.5 split. I wouldn't even bother with the MJ15023s, it is not worth it. The MJ2955 will handle that application no sweat. Just give it bias. Newark has then for like a buck and a quarter.   I have some MJ2955s in stock.     > Of course check the drove circuitry first. To do that put 100 ohm resistors across the B and E of the outputs. The circuit should stabilise ad actually amplify but DO NOT put a load on it. Once it does that THEN you put the outputs in. Always on a DBY first.   I'll put up the schematic of the model I am looking to upgrade to with my notes...past this model they changed the specs on the other pre-driver germanium transistors which would require a bit more changes to get the bias correct I suspect.   What is a "DBY"? Normally I use a series 40 to 60W lamp with the line when doing test to current limit.     John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 21 01:50PM -0500 On 4/21/20 1:27 PM, John Robertson wrote: > What is a "DBY"? Normally I use a series 40 to 60W lamp with the line > when doing test to current limit.   Jeff is hard pressed to spell anything. DBY = DBT, Dim Bulb Tester.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Apr 21 10:43PM -0700 On Tuesday, April 21, 2020 at 11:27:45 AM UTC-7, John Robertson wrote:   > There was a 75R pot added in later amps of the same series with R127 > reduced slightly in value. I am considering that.   > Any particular silicon diodes?   To be careful, diode-test a good Ge transistor and its associated diode, and try to get the same voltage-offset (transistor BE drop minus diode drop). Within 20 mV would be good.   As I read the schematics, the pulldown output drive transistor has an emitter resistor and base-negative pulldown resistor; you might want to change the base pulldown resistor, too, to bias the emitter current the same as the original.

Mike Mocha <mocha@mailexcite.com>: Apr 22 04:39AM On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 08:39:02 -0700, John Robertson wrote:     > Welcome back! Were you trapped on a desert island with only a volleyball > for company?   > John ;-#)#     Worse, I was stuck on ISPs without Usenet. I used to have various dial up accounts until 2002 until reasonably priced DSL came to my area. The difference was that DSL didn't include anything but total garbage Usenet. Of course years later it was totally dropped from all ISPs and still is. Now I have 635/20 Mbps cable service which is like a 1.2 million percent increase in speed from the dial up days and a reasonably cheap Usenet provider that I pay extra for.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Bo-Lennart <bo-lennart.karlsson@telia.com>: Apr 20 11:37AM -0700 Hi all out there. I got an old iMac 20 inch from 2007, with no backlight.   I open up the iMac and found the inverter. The inverter is made by DARFON, TW. The modell is: 4H.V2471.001   I check the transistor, diods and so on. I found 2 suspect transistors.Q2 qnd Q4. Two SOT-23. They are labeled: RKM35, I don't know if it's a NPN or PNP or even a mosfet. Is there some one that have worked with this inverter, I mean in component-level. I mailed DARFON, but I got a reply from postmaster, saying that they could't deliver my mail, becouse DARFON inbox is full. Mybee they went out of busnees, and forgot to close the mail-accont.   I would appriciate any help from You.   Bo-Lennart Karlsson Falun, SWEDEN

JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Apr 21 10:43AM -0400 Bo-Lennart wrote:   > I would appriciate any help from You.   > Bo-Lennart Karlsson > Falun, SWEDEN   some Rohm RK7002 N-CH Mosfets have RKM markings (SOT-32 60V 115mA switching) Mouser sell them but with RKU marking

Bo-Lennart <bo-lennart.karlsson@telia.com>: Apr 21 08:40AM -0700 Den måndag 20 april 2020 kl. 20:37:14 UTC+2 skrev Bo-Lennart:

JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Apr 21 11:53AM -0400 JC wrote:   >  some Rohm RK7002 N-CH Mosfets have RKM markings > (SOT-32 60V 115mA switching) > Mouser sell them but with RKU marking   Correction SOT-23

Bo-Lennart <bo-lennart.karlsson@telia.com>: Apr 21 08:58AM -0700 Den måndag 20 april 2020 kl. 20:37:14 UTC+2 skrev Bo-Lennart:   > I would appriciate any help from You.   > Bo-Lennart Karlsson > Falun, SWEDEN   Thank You JC. I think You are right, that it is a MosFet-transistor. I don't have them in stock, so I have to order them. Are You familier with that inverter, made by DARFON? There is a 4-pin connector that supply the inverter with power and control-voltage. Pin 1 = + 12V, Pin 2 = ground, Pin 3 = proberly(?) the brigthnees control and Pin 4 = 3,3Volt They selling these inverter on E-bay, but shipping cost will sometime be more than for the inverter. I've got this iMAC for free, but I don't wanna pay to much to get it up and running. Anyway, the computer is 13 years old. If I got it running, it will not be at the top of iMAC-computers.   Bo-Lennart Karlsson Falun, SWEDEN

JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Apr 21 12:04PM -0400 Bo-Lennart wrote: > I've got this iMAC for free, but I don't wanna pay to much to get it up and running. Anyway, the computer is 13 years old. If I got it running, it will not be at the top of iMAC-computers.   > Bo-Lennart Karlsson > Falun, SWEDEN   No, not familiar, I do a lot of switchers so I get to know a lot of transistor codes. Good luck!

discounts@iphone.bell.com: Apr 20 08:57PM +0200 *** iPhone SUPER-SPECIAL-DISCOUNT 80% OFF --- UNBEATABLE SUPER-PRICES !!! ***   Save LOTS OF CASH on a wide collections of iPhones, 80% off everything must go to make place of next generation iPhone   Bell Super Discounts http://www.grex.org/~henced/iPhones.html

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 20 02:20PM -0500 > *** iPhone SUPER-SPECIAL-DISCOUNT 80% OFF   Go fuck yourself.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 20 12:25PM -0700 On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 14:20:27 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >On 4/20/20 1:57 PM, discounts@iphone.bell.com wrote:   >> *** iPhone SUPER-SPECIAL-DISCOUNT 80% OFF   >Go fuck yourself I randomly checked several newsgroups for sample messages and the above message and the covid message were the only messages. It's like these assholes posted to every newsgroup. What a waste of time. Eric

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 20 01:18PM -0700 Registrant Organization: Domains By Proxy, LLC Registrant Street: DomainsByProxy.com Registrant Street: 14455 N. Hayden Road Registrant City: Scottsdale Registrant State/Province: Arizona Registrant Postal Code: 85260 Registrant Country: US Registrant Phone: +1.4806242599   All of you - report this to: Registrar Abuse Contact Email: abuse@godaddy.com

"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Apr 21 07:33AM -0700 > Registrant Phone: +1.4806242599 Is that telephone number really complicit with this spam? If so, we all should call it and personally let them know how grateful we are.

Rob <nomail@example.com>: Apr 21 03:07PM > On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 1:18:22 PM UTC-7, pf...@aol.com wrote: >> Registrant Phone: +1.4806242599 > Is that telephone number really complicit with this spam? If so, we all should call it and personally let them know how grateful we are.   Looking at the URL structure this is some service (grex.com) that hosts user accounts (~henced) where someone has hosted a page. That someone may not at all be related to this spam, it may be a hacked account.   The article was posted on usenet via another service, but that account already has been shut down. Of course it will be quite easy to create a new account for the next run.

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Apr 17 05:55PM -0400 I have the subject driver & it has excessive leakage current: 20ma more or less. With an 1800 mah battery, that's less than 4 days of shelf life. After I discovered this I thought that I could live with it by not keeping the battery in the driver. That got old REAL quickly - like twice having to put the battery in & remove it after.   So I opened it up to see what I could see: https://imgur.com/9ccfxL0 https://imgur.com/VhIN5wY   I cleaned the board real well by scrubbing with denatured alcohol (it was pretty dirty - it's 10 years old). No effect, so I tried heating with a hair dryer & cooling with CO2. No effect.   It can be seen in the photos that the trigger is more than just on-off contacts & that it can be opened. But I'm worried that there are little springs & such inside and that I'd like to only do that at the last.   Are there any components that are likely suspects & are easily checked? I do have an analog scope as well as a couple of DMM's. Any suggestions at all?   Thanks, Bob

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Apr 17 10:17PM -0400 On 4/17/2020 7:33 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > start over with a different set of recommendations.   >> Thanks, Bob   > Good luck.   Jeff - thanks for the reply. The driver is a GEN 0, model 2450 ... LiIon battery. The battery is new (the original ones lasted 10 years - no complaints there), model 48-11-2420.   The 20ma leakage was measured (DMM). A 12v 10-year-old drill was also measured, for reference, & its leakage was less than a ma.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 20 08:39AM -0700 On 2020/04/20 12:04 a.m., Mike Mocha wrote: > incorporated a "tip" I made regarding vacuum tube televisions on his TV > FAQ back in 1997! I had a lot of great memories lurking and posting in > this group from 1995 to 1997. Thanks all!   Welcome back! Were you trapped on a desert island with only a volleyball for company?   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

jjhudak4@gmail.com: Apr 19 01:43PM -0700 Following up on my repair effort, I'll document what I found in case anyone going down this road stumbles on this writeup.   In short the unit uses a Peltier module heat pump to both heat and cool the yogurt container. The Peltier module was bad in my unit - gave a constant ~30K ohms reading, connected it to a 12vdc battery source, no heat what so ever. The module is a TEC1-12705. To my surprise none of the usual electron parts houses have them (Mouser, Digikey, avnet, allied, newark, etc.) Amazon has them ranging in price from $6 to $10 from varying sources and from what I see in the reviews, all parts are of questionable quality. To my surprise, they are available through Walmart! Not sure where to get the OEM part - suggestions? pointers appreciated.   Description of the unit, it contains: 1) 5 VDC 6A smps, which feeds a... 2) a 2"x3" micro based control module that contains connections for: the Peltier module, a rtd/thermister temp sensor, power supply input. 3) the heat/cool stack composed of 1.25" aluminum heat block encased in styrofoam, the peltier module, a massive Al finned heatsink (5"x 2.5") and a 3" fan bolted to the finned heatsink.   Getting the unit apart is a little tricky because it has 4 plastic fingers that lock the bottom half of the unit to the top half - need to simultaneously unlock all four tabs then separate the top and bottom.   Couldn't see any obvious design or implementation screwups, although I question why there is a 1.25" thick piece of aluminum between the Peltier module and the bottom of the yogurt container. I'll need to do some heat transfer calcs to see if they are controlling the module correctly and take some temp measurements to infer their desired (required) heating and cooling temps.   From what I could tell on the scope the output to the Peltier module was fairly smooth DC voltage that is (my guess) a LPF PWM output to a power transistor (MOSFET?) from the microcontroller The markings on the chip were unreadable due to some clear coat that was put on the chip. A lot of speculation here since I could not read a lot of the component markings. My googlefu failed to turn up anything about the components, although the PS looks like it is an off the shelf module from somewhere.     Next step is to get the replacement Peltier module, perhaps upgrade the thermal silicon grease, and reassemble. J

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 20 04:46AM -0700 > The module is a TEC1-12705. > To my surprise none of the usual electron parts houses have them (Mouser, Digikey, avnet, allied, newark, etc.) Amazon has them ranging in price from $6 to $10 from varying sources and from what I see in the reviews, all parts are of questionable quality. To my surprise, they are available through Walmart! > Not sure where to get the OEM part - suggestions? pointers appreciated.   Walmart is a poor man's Amazon. Many of the things sold on Walmart's online site are deliverd from someone's basement, and I don't know if Walmart would offer the same protections as Amazon, as good or as bad as that might be.

Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Apr 20 12:55PM On Mon, 20 Apr 2020 04:46:45 -0700 (PDT), John-Del wrote: >> To my surprise none of the usual electron parts houses have them (Mouser, Digikey, avnet, allied, newark, etc.) Amazon has them ranging in price from $6 to $10 from varying sources and from what I see in the reviews, all parts are of questionable quality. To my surprise, they are available through Walmart! >> Not sure where to get the OEM part - suggestions? pointers appreciated.   > Walmart is a poor man's Amazon. Many of the things sold on Walmart's online site are deliverd from someone's basement, and I don't know if Walmart would offer the same protections as Amazon, as good or as bad as that might be.   Walmart == Made In China Store   Even those who lower their expectations are often disappointed.

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Apr 19 08:29AM -0400 On 4/19/2020 2:29 AM, Mike S wrote: > What about installing an on/off switch to isolate the battery from the > pcb when not in use?   That's a good idea - thanks. Wouldn't be the 1st time that I've done a bodge like that 8-) I'll look into it.

Mike Mocha <mocha@mailexcite.com>: Apr 20 07:04AM Wow! I just got back on Usenet after literally 18+ years and it's great to see this is one of the last text groups still active with real people talking! Good to see Sam Goldwasser and others still on here. Sam incorporated a "tip" I made regarding vacuum tube televisions on his TV FAQ back in 1997! I had a lot of great memories lurking and posting in this group from 1995 to 1997. Thanks all!

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 19 10:18AM -0700 >is large enough. Sometimes I temporarily glue it in place to get proper >alignment while drilling. It has saved me a lot of time waiting for >parts. I also have a drill and tap for a 1-72 screw if that is needed.   I do something similar when desperate. Instead of drill and pin, I use a flexible sewing pin (not a needle) and my soldering iron. I put some gouges in the surface of the pin, heat the pen head, shove the pin into the parts that I want to glue, and wait for the plastic to harden. When done, I cut off the head of the pin with flush cutting diagonal cutters or a Dremel tool with a cutoff disk. If I need pull strength, I use a straightened paper clip instead of a pin. The paper clip metal is softer, so I can use my wire cutters to roughen the surface of the paper clip. I heat instead of glue to assemble the parts because the hole is usually in some inaccessible location that can be reached with a soldering iron, but not a Dremel drill tool.   Another alternative is plastic welding. <https://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-welding-kit-with-air-motor-and-temperature-adjustment-96712.html> <https://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-welding-kit-with-adjustable-temperature-96464.html> I modified a spare tip for my SMD hot air desoldering tool by adding a smaller nozzle suitable for plastic welding. So far, it's worked nicely for parts about the diameter of a pencil. However, my attempts at plastic welding small parts usually result in a blob of plastic or a cloud of plastic smog. The next time I get a laptop in the shop to fix, with the usual ultra-thin standoffs broken off by the threaded brass inserts, I'll give plastic welding another try.   >As you are aware, it breaks where at the point where it needs the >most reinforcement.   Yep. However, my usual problem is finding the broken off plastic piece.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 19 10:08AM -0700 On Saturday, April 18, 2020 at 4:49:52 PM UTC-4, kill...@coronavirus.com wrote:   Forwarded to: fbi.gov/coronavirus Forwarded to: abuse@web.com (Via whois)   May you die exceedingly slowly, and hurt the entire time you are dying.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.