Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 3 topics

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Apr 14 07:46AM -0700

I haven't had to deal with an SSD but I did have a similar failure on my daughter's laptop.
 
You have two problems: the operating system isn't there so the computer won't run, and you can't get to the data on the SSD.
 
In my case putting the hard drive in an enclosure let me recover the data to another PC. The sectors with the operating system were trashed but I got her data back. I bought a new hard drive, with some effort we got an operating system loaded, and I transferred her data back.
 
In your case buying a new SSD is easy. I doubt you will recover any data given your symptoms. So you still need to deal with the operating system replacement. With Win 10 I don't know how hard that is - with my old system I couldn't get a replacement OS from the manufacture because the retailer had loaded the systems. I had a friend with an XP image that worked, and eventually I converted to Linux.
 
The lesson here is when you buy a laptop make a recovery disk, USB, or whatever it reads BEFORE you start using it. Eventually they all die.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 13 10:36PM -0700

I figure this could work for upgrading old jukebox amplifiers, type AB
or B class, from the mid 70s that ran on Germanium transistors - almost
unobtanium these days. And never that reliable to begin with.
 
Is it possible to use MosFets to replace them? There is a bit of info on
line about replacing G with S, but I don't think I've seen anyone talk
about Mos...
 
The original amp runs on -46VDC to ground and is roughly 25W RMS into a
16R load - has an output transformer for 70V operation as well as taps
for various speaker volumes. I suspect I'd have to replace the entire
power amp side as mixing G with Mos is probably just not going to work.
 
Suggestions welcome!
 
Thanks!
 
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
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whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Apr 14 12:13AM -0700

On Monday, April 13, 2020 at 10:36:55 PM UTC-7, John Robertson wrote:
> I figure this could work for upgrading old jukebox amplifiers, type AB
> or B class, from the mid 70s that ran on Germanium transistors - almost
> unobtanium these days. And never that reliable to begin with.
 
 
The usual AB bias for audio amplifiers requires diodes that match the transistors'
thermal character, SO either you have to buy oddball (sometimes
called 'stabistor' ) biasing diodes that connect to the transistor heatsinks,
OR you buy a module, prebuilt and mounted for heatsinking.
 
Something like this module
<https://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/datasheet/4f/18/a6/c8/21/33/41/8d/CD00001887.pdf/files/CD00001887.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.CD00001887.pdf>
 
will save you time and money over trying to do a replacement at the component level.
jjhudak4@gmail.com: Apr 13 12:50PM -0700

On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 8:55:06 PM UTC-4, Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> Experience is the worst teacher. It always gives the test
> first and the instruction afterward.
 
Been through this a year or so ago, restoring a few JVC decks and a Nak.
I found these places helpful and purchased belts from them:
 
https://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/catalog/tape_rec_belts.asp
https://www.vintage-electronics.net/
 
There is some useful information on the VoM website, including a clever way to determine the length of a needed belt (if you don't have or want to double check the original), and some factors about stretching. You may not always find the exact p/n or a cross and have to resort to finding a suitable replacement on your own.
 
For one of the JVC decks, I needed to measure the belt length after I received the kit from VoM and the belt was not the correct one for my deck. I notified them of the problem. IDK if they fixed it or not.
 
The first order of business it to find a FSM for your deck and get the correct p/n
Being the son of a electronics tech, I made it a point to buy the FSM soon after I bought a piece of electronics gear (and vehicles for that matter).
Good luck
J
John Keiser <johnkeiser@juno.com>: Apr 13 10:57AM -1000

On 4/12/2020 2:59 PM, Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
> some other TEAC deck might fit. But my Google-fu fails me at finding any
> sort of parts cross reference.
 
> Any ideas?
 
I bought "Cassette Tape Machine Belt Assorted" on eBay from China for
about $2. It turned out that I needed something slightly smaller for a
TEAC CD player but a razor blade and crazy glue worked well. The deck is
working well after 2 years.
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