- Need a service manual SENNHEISER UPM 550-1 - 2 Updates
- Daewoo fridge not cooling properly - 8 Updates
| sernst.geo@gmail.com: Apr 30 10:17AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 9:07:44 AM UTC+1, Bo-Lennart wrote: > OK, thanks once again for Your reply. I will continue the foult-finding. > Best regards from SWEDEN > Bo-Lennart Karlsson Hi Bo and everyone else reading, I'm looking for the service manual / schematics for the very same device. If anyone has them on hand and could forward them that would be reall helpful. Thanks! |
| Arie de Muynck <no.spam@no.spam.org>: May 01 03:49PM +0200 > Hi Bo and everyone else reading, > I'm looking for the service manual / schematics for the very same device. If anyone has them on hand and could forward them that would be reall helpful. > Thanks! For $5 the PDF is available: https://www.manual-buddy.com/p/sennheiser/upm5501-service-manual.html |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 30 10:25AM -0700 I have a small Daewoo fridge in my shop that has started to noot cool enough. The model is FR-094R. I can hear the compressor working and the cooling is set to max but it just doesn't get cold enough. In fact, it has been getting warmer and warmer over the last few days. Turning the dial for more cooling shows that the temp probe must be working because the compressor turns on at lower and lower numbers. Yesterday it would turn on at the number 5 setting and today it turns on at 4. There are seven settings. It will run for a while at the higher setting and then turn off. But it will not be as cold as the setting implies. If I turn it down too 1 and then back to the higher (colder) settings it will turn on again. Are there any tricks to get a recalcitrant fridge working properly again? Thanks, Eric |
| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 30 11:03AM -0700 > again? > Thanks, > Eric It might be "frozen". Shut it down and check the evaporator coil for heavy coating of frost. If it's frost bound, it will struggle. Sometimes, the door is unintentionally left ajar in a humid environment and it will freeze up. If it's frosted over, it could also be the defrost heater or timer/circuit, or there could be a coolant leak. Low refrigerant will cause localized freezing of the evap coil. |
| HW <none@no.no>: Apr 30 08:31PM +0200 >It will run for a while at the higher setting and then turn off. I'd say your thermostat has failed. They do sometimes fail in a gradual manner. Try bypassing the thermostat for a while to see if the mechanicals work. |
| Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Apr 30 05:41PM -0500 HW wrote: > I'd say your thermostat has failed. They do sometimes fail in a > gradual manner. Try bypassing the thermostat for a while to see if the > mechanicals work. Right. Well, just check the temperature where the thermostat turns on and off. Since you say the thermostat IS cycling it on and off, it really does sound like the thermostat has failed. You could bypass the thermostat and see how cold it gets when running full on for a couple hours. Jon |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 30 05:30PM -0700 On Thu, 30 Apr 2020 11:03:25 -0700 (PDT), John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote: >It might be "frozen". I agree. I have a small "bar size" Kenmore/Sears fridge which exhibits the same problem. The thermal sensor is inside a flexible copper(?) pipe located near the back of the freezer section. As long as the sensor is not coated in ice, the refrigerator and temperature control work normally. However, when the freezer section becomes coated with ice, with the thermal sensor also embedded in ice, the thermostat stops working. One it's inside a block of ice, the thermal sensor is always at the same temperature as the ice, no matter what the refrigerator is doing. I could probably fix it by relocating the temperature sensor, but I'm lazy and simply resign myself to defrosting the refrigerator every 3 months or so. After defrosting, things work as expected. Hints: 1. Don't defrost the ice accumulation with a heat gun or propane torch. Ice likes to explode when a small area is heated and there's far too much plastic in the fridge to risk melting it. 2. Don't break loose chunks of ice with a screwdriver and a hammer. I did that to my previous fridge and ended up punching a hole in the cooling coils. No repair parts, no fix, so I had buy a new fridge. 3. To properly defrost such a fridge: - Figure out how to catch any melt water. A paint roller tray works for me. - Empty the fridge from all food. This won't take long so the food is not likely to be ruined. - Put a pot of boiling water inside the fridge. Close the door, and go do something else. Mine takes about 30 mins to melt all the ice. To make things go faster, open the door occasional and remove any chunks of ice that can be extracted. Toss into sink. - Clean up the inevitable mess from the bottom of the fridge and the floor with a mop or sponge. - Put food back into fridge, apply power, set thermostat to its usual position, and live happily ever after. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 30 07:44PM -0500 On 4/30/20 7:30 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > 3. To properly defrost such a fridge: I had an older fridge, 35 years ago that liked to turn the freezer into Ice Station Zebra. The only thing that would fix it would be to defrost it. I would get the appliance dolly, roll it out in the driveway and hose it down with a trigger grip sprayer. And yes, this was after killing a previous fridge with a screw driver. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: May 01 01:23AM On Thu, 30 Apr 2020 19:44:40 -0500, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > fix it would be to defrost it. > I would get the appliance dolly, roll it out in the driveway > and hose it down with a trigger grip sprayer. Something similar: A side-by-side frost-free, the freezer side started icing up badly. 'Twas the plastic drain line from the bottom back of the freezer to a pan under the coils on the bottom of the unit. It was plugged with gunk, mold, mildew. Removed and cleaned the drain line -- ran a little clorox throught it - reassembled and it ran for a nother 20 years. SEARS, IIRC Jonesy |
| Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: May 01 05:47AM -0700 > again? > Thanks, > Eric The symptoms match the other comments better than this idea, but something to consider with an older fridge is the gasket on the door seal. Once that starts to leak my wife turns the thermostat colder, then that causes the icing up, etc. Replacing them on a full size refrigerator is a pain in the butt and the gasket itself is expensive. I've never tried on a bar size. |
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