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"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 18 09:59AM -0700 > > Would not call the OP stupid as much as bone-lazy. > The terms are interchangeable.   Not so much. "Stupid" is a special sort of disease and entirely incurable. On the other hand it is remarkable what a cattle-prod will do for congenital laziness.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 18 01:19PM -0400 In article <9b557ad3-8ea6-4440-8871-ead2111f31d2n@googlegroups.com>, peterwieck33@gmail.com says...   > > > Would not call the OP stupid as much as bone-lazy. > > The terms are interchangeable.   > Not so much. "Stupid" is a special sort of disease and entirely incurable. On the other hand it is remarkable what a cattle-prod will do for congenital laziness.   Right, you can not cure stupid.   There is another group that seems stupid, but sometimes they are not really stupid, just uneducated. I feel that I sometimes fall into that group. Don't know, but trying to learn.   Sometimes with the right motivation you can moviate the lazy. Like where I worked. It was almost impossiable to fire someone if they just showed up every day. There was one lazy person and his boss made the coment that as he could not fire that person, so he promoted the fat lazy sob to a supervisor job. The company could get rid of bad supervisors very easy. That motivated the person and he made a very good and well liked supervisor.

Michael_A_Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Aug 18 01:33PM -0400 Jeff Urban wrote: > Well maybe I am, but why can't I buy a bunch of fuses ? I want a bunch of 3AG, ranging from 1 to 15 amps, maybe five each. I go searching on Digikey n shit, nothing. But then I see in Google results there they are. Well for one, I ain't falling for that anymore and two, if I can't find it on you selector guide I think I might want to just get them elsewhere.     <https://www.digikey.com/products/en/circuit-protection/fuses/139?k=fuse> lists both 3AG and AGCas you scrll down the list of series.   The link to 3AG (Bussman) is:   <https://www.digikey.com/products/en/circuit-protection/fuses/139?k=fuse&k=&pkeyword=fuse&sv=0&s=15468&sf=0&FV=-8%7C139&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=250>   The link to AGC (Littlefuse)is:   <https://www.digikey.com/products/en/circuit-protection/fuses/139?k=fuse&k=&pkeyword=fuse&sv=0&s=15368&sf=0&FV=-8%7C139&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=250>   -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 18 03:35PM -0700 Tim Schwartz wrote:   -------------------- > assortment from an eBay vendor. He then called me that he was having > problems with all sorts of things no working. It was because the fuses > did not conduct electricity.   ** Pre-loved fuses?   Was given a Phase Linear 400 amp to repair once as it kept blowing DC rail fuses - but there turned out to be nothing wrong with the amp.   The DJ who owned the thing had bought a pack of 5A fuses from Tandy ( aka Radio Shack). Though clearly labelled on the pack and the fuse itself, they were not 5A. I tested one and it failed quickly at 2A.   IME no-brand fuses can fail prematurely or not at all !!   I came across a type of 3AG slo-blo that could NOT not tolerate an inrush surge. See third example from the left here:   https://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/Fuses_1/Littelfuse-Slow-Blow-3AG-7-AMP   The fine wire is the fuse element and slowly heats the solder pot allowing the spring to pull the heavy wire out. However it will easily fail under inrush. This leaves the spring and heavy wire conducting currents up to 45A while glowing bright red and melting the fuse holder.   So "slo-blo" and anti-surge fuses are NOT the same thing.     .... Phil

Pimpom <nobody@nowhere.com>: Aug 19 12:03PM +0530 On 8/19/2020 4:05 AM, Phil Allison wrote:   > The fine wire is the fuse element and slowly heats the solder pot allowing the spring to pull the heavy wire out. However it will easily fail under inrush. This leaves the spring and heavy wire conducting currents up to 45A while glowing bright red and melting the fuse holder.   > So "slo-blo" and anti-surge fuses are NOT the same thing.   > .... Phil   I'm surprised at the accounts of fuses performing not just outside spec but far outside it, especially in developed countries. Like ones glowing for several minutes at twice the rated current.   I use what I can get here and the 3-5 cent (US) fast-blow fuses I normally stock are often crudely constructed. But they behave as expected in the few tests I've done as well as in practical products. They take several seconds to blow at the rated current and quickly at 2x.   In a pinch, I've used copper wire as fuses, e.g. 41 SWG (0.0044"/0.11mm) for 3A, 36SWG (0.0076"/0.19mm) for 7A, etc. They also behave as expected.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Aug 19 07:48AM -0400 On Tue, 18 Aug 2020 02:26:12 -0700 (PDT), Jeff Urban

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Aug 19 07:59AM -0400 On Tue, 18 Aug 2020 02:26:12 -0700 (PDT), Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:   3AG is a series of glass bodied low voltage fuses. (Automotive Glass)   You should replace fuses with the same type and rating as was originally used.   Most fuses have enough information marked into their end caps to identify their type and rating.   Keeping spares of type and rating that are used in your equipment, or are commonly required in repairs makes sense. There's no rush in obtaining them.   Getting the correct fuse, that you don't have, fast, is worth the $8 shipping from Digikey, even for just one.   Kits are just space wasters.   RL

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 19 05:33AM -0700 Any fuse used in line-voltage equipment should be rated at/above that line-voltage. I use nothing but 250VAC rated fuses, with the exception of what goes into low-voltage equipment which will be rated to the specific need and use.   Again, I am not of the persuasion that a $1,000 device should fail in order to protect a $0.25 fuse. Or, even a $3.00 fuse.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 19 06:41AM -0700 Pimpom wrote:   ============== > expected in the few tests I've done as well as in practical > products. They take several seconds to blow at the rated current > and quickly at 2x.   ** No fuse should blow at the rated current.   Cos the Amp rating is for the max holding value.   Slow acting ( ie T for trage ) types open at current levels not much above their rating, given enough time.     ..... Phil

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 19 10:04AM -0400 In article <81e44a05-a0d9-4d88-933e-8aea12fe48cbn@googlegroups.com>, peterwieck33@gmail.com says...   > Again, I am not of the persuasion that a $1,000 device should fail in order to protect a $0.25 fuse. Or, even a $3.00 fuse.   The $ 1000 device has already failed when the fuse blows. The fuse is really to protect the wiring going to the device. A fuse may prevent major damage to the devise it is wired to. Such as in a power supply part of the device a capacitor may short and the fuse may protect the power transformer.   The common mistake about fuses is that it is to protect the device, but it is really they are to protect the wiring and the power supply that is feedig the device.   Without a fuse, the wires could get hot enough to cause a fire.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 19 08:30AM -0700 > it is really they are to protect the wiring and the power supply that is > feedig the device.   > Without a fuse, the wires could get hot enough to cause a fire.   A conventionally designed fuse, agreed, is to protect real-estate, not the device. However, a properly designed fuse will do at least a reasonable job of protecting a device against catastrophic failure. A well-matched dual-element fuse can be very closely match to the operating current of a device such that it can accept turn-on surges, but will blow if that operating current is exceed more than momentarily.   Not perfect. Far better than nothing. Most especially as it applies to tube audio equipment, and some motorized equipment.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

etpm@whidbey.com: Aug 19 09:21AM -0700 On Wed, 19 Aug 2020 10:04:27 -0400, Ralph Mowery >it is really they are to protect the wiring and the power supply that is >feedig the device.   >Without a fuse, the wires could get hot enough to cause a fire.   My CNC machines have fuses in the servo motor drives that will blow if the drive is overloaded long enough, such as in a crash. These fuses protect the drives. I have replaced them several times. A couple machines I used to have used repairable fuses. They had a flag held down by some fuse wire. When the fuse blew the flag would show in a window, so you would know which fuse to repair. Over the years I replaced fuse wires many times. Eric   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 18 12:34PM -0700 On Sat, 15 Aug 2020 10:20:08 -0700, Paul Drahn <pdrahn@jodeco.com> wrote:     >A grinder has no reason the have a heavy load when it starts, which is >the reason for motors with two caps.   >Paul   Agreed. However, the official name is a "Permanent-Split Capacitor Motor" which has one permanently connected run capacitor. The "Split Phase" motor has no capacitors. See:   Two-winding Machines <https://people.ucalgary.ca/~aknigh/electrical_machines/other/split_phase.html>   Permanent-Split Capacitor Motor If run efficiency and vibration are important, but start torque can be compromised, the capacitor can be left in the auxiliary circuit at all speeds. Sizing the capacitor to provide balance at a particular load point, the backwards field can be eliminated, improving efficiency and eliminating torque pulsations. Eliminating the centrifugal switch can reduce the manufacturing cost significantly. The trade-off is lower starting torque, since the capacitor is not sized to provide balance at starting, but for run conditions   The design has the disadvantage of having low starting torque, which is the cause of the slow start. At 80+ years old, I would guess(tm) that the capacitor is as dead as the bearings that were replaced. As it gets old, the ESR starts to climb which I presume was the cause of the observed heating.   Drivel: My experience with motors was mostly with industrial sewing machines at my father's lingerie factory. At the time some of the older motors would exhibit the symptoms of a shorted winding. What was happening was that some motors were not designed to handle sustained high temperatures. The copper motor wire would expand slightly, cracking the old enamel insulation. New enamel was quite flexible, but old enamel became brittle. My guess(tm) is it took about 40 years to cause problems. Insulation failures were mostly around sharp wire bends. I think varnish insulation did the same thing, but at the time, I couldn't tell the difference between varnish or enamel insulated motor wire. Therefore, when working with really old motors, I always look for loose insulation flakes, which might be an indication of impending shorts.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 18 08:11PM -0700 > appearing so this cap is weird. It's a rectangle about 5/16 inch > thick. Modern motor caps are a lot different in shape. > Eric   You gave its dimensions earlier. It is presumably a flat paper cap. I meant restuff with higher v non-motor caps.     NT

etpm@whidbey.com: Aug 19 09:14AM -0700 >> Eric   >You gave its dimensions earlier. It is presumably a flat paper cap. I meant restuff with higher v non-motor caps.   >NT Modern motor run caps are all large. They use a lot of material. It can't be they do this just because of tradition. Eric   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

alex2007 <alex20072301@gmail.com>: Aug 19 02:10AM +0200 Ciao, In uno switch HP vecchio modello ( 1920 ), trovo configurate 3 VLAN tra cui la VLAN 0001.   Come faccio a sapere su quale subnet IP e' associata la singola VLAN ?   Però rispondetemi via E-mail perché non seguo questo gruppo. alex20072301@gmail.com:     Grazie

Pimpom <nobody@nowhere.com>: Aug 19 12:02PM +0530 On 8/19/2020 5:40 AM, alex2007 wrote:   > Però rispondetemi via E-mail perché non seguo questo gruppo. > alex20072301@gmail.com:   > Grazie   Non dovresti chiedere alle persone in un newsgroup di rispondere personalmente via e-mail. Tale richiesta dovrebbe essere fatta solo in casi particolari e solo a persone che conosci bene.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 18 08:08PM -0700 On Tuesday, 18 August 2020 04:06:53 UTC+1, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > I see what you are telling me. The way many of the capacitor checkers > work a leaky capacitor will throw them way off. I just had not even > thougt that out very well.   that is the usual result   > Of course the shorted one is no use to even check that on the > capacitor checker. The China checkers will probalby tell me that I have > a resistor of zero to very low ohms.   So it's told you the cap is faulty and what's wrong with it. Sounds useful to me.   I much prefer these cheap testers to the old Heathkit. The China special gives a quick reading of C (which is indeed affected by C faults), ESR & Vloss. High R caps show up with high ESR, leaky caps show up with high Vloss, and some caps show up with C loss. The one big limitation is it only tests at 5v, but so far I've found it still picks up caps that fall over at higher voltages, ie their 5v performance isn't ok either.     NT

"malua mada!" <fritzo2ster@gmail.com>: Aug 18 03:17PM -0700 I have been known to repair headphones and earbuds that suffer from broken / stiff wires. Breakage usually occurs at the plug or headphone end. With age the insulation gets so stiff that each movement transmits thunder to the ear. Repair is relatively easy but the cord gets shorter and shorter... I am looking for this type of wire: two sheaths like zip cord, each containing two fine stranded lacquered copper conductors wound around/ along angel hair. One side contains a red and a clear coated wire, the other green (or blue) and clear. Should be strong and light and flexible. Suggest search terms...? Thanks Fritz

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