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"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 14 04:34AM -0700 a) WD-40 is 100% volatile - over time. Please look at the MSDS if you have any doubts. b) The sticky -slimy skunge left behind when it is (under) used is the old hardened lubricant that has now been evenly distributed throughout whatever was sprayed.     https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/wd-40-multi-use-product-aerosol-low-voc-sds-us-ghs.pdf     Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 14 09:20AM -0700 On Sun, 13 Sep 2020 02:59:58 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >Simple Green and finally denatured alcohol to get rid of the water.   >I'd say it came out pretty clean. ><https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/685910956580405312/754506691353116722/unknown.png>   Looks like a Model 15 teletype machine. Yep: <http://www.aetherltd.com/images/tty15-2/typebarscleanedmore.jpg> <http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,43672.0.html>   It's clean, but now you get to lubricate it from scratch. I used to work on those when I lived in Smog Angeles, but haven't done any rebuilds in the last 50 years. Model 15 lube and adjustment manual: <http://www.aetherltd.com/public/model15manuals/138_Model15_Adj_Oct41.pdf>   The original lube was allegedly whale oil based, so you're not going to find any of that. My guess(tm) that's why the oil turned to tar or varnish. I think if you dig deeper, you'll find more varnish. You may also need to tear down the main shaft. I didn't have much luck with ultrasonic cleaning and had to use acetone to get rid of persistent varnish.   I recall using either light clock oil or sewing machine oil which have the advantage of not evaporating and having a stable viscosity over some temperature range. It's been a long time, so check the forums for the latest suggestions. If you need any help from me, forget it. I'm busy untrashing my house after moving the entire office home.   Good luck.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Drake L Legg <drake_L_legg@anywhere.net>: Sep 14 09:55AM -0400 Due to budget constraints, current webcam shortages, and an upcoming pressing need, I am considering acquiring one or more "integrated" webcams presumably from eBay and elsewhere and attempting to modify it by adding a USB cable so I can use with my current system. I have already seen plenty of tutorials and videos on the modifications, and the process looks simple enough with good results if one keeps in mind whether or not a voltage drop is needed for webcam power as apparently some use 3V and not 5V USB, and also taking necessary static and soldering precautions. However, there's one important thing that seems to be missing with the online information: precisely which webcam models are suitable-- especially, formerly integrated boards that would offer at least 720p resolution as well as audio output along the same USB data lines.   As an initial experiment, I extracted an integrated webcam from an old, unused no longer functioning HP DV5 laptop. After a bit of trial and error, using a multimeter, as well as referencing online information, I was able to adapt it to USB and it is currently working on my system. However, it is not HD and the audio had a digital output separate from the four wire USB output. I was unable to adapt its audio, so ended up having to use a separate electret mic plugged into the desktop. This, although workable, is not desired and I would like to have the audio coming from the camera as well, with the audio part of the same two USB data lines.   I'm no expert in this and trying to keep it as simple as possible. Webcam board voltage is the most critical aspect, but I'd like to know if there's an online resource somewhere listing what integrated models are suitable for the job and what the particulars are per model (HD or not, audio output, etc). So far, I have not had luck finding beyond "generic" generalized information so, if anyone can suggest a source, please share. I need to get a workable system up and running by the end of this week.   Thank you in advance.

Peabody <waybackNO584SPAM44@yahoo.com>: Sep 13 04:01PM -0500 I have three of these flashes that I've converted to manual flashes. One works ok, The second i have to turn on and off several times, but it finally starts whining, and works perfectly thereafter so long as it stays on.   The third used to do that too, but now it won't whine at all. I've taken it apart, and the main capacitor checks out good, as does the main power switch. So I'm left with tryng to figure out why the boost circuit doesn't start up - doesn't oscillate. The smaller electolytics look ok, but I haven't taken them out to check them. And of course there's no schematic.   I'd like to find a fix, but I don't want to make a second career out of it either. Any suggestions on what to check, or how to approach this?   Thanks very much.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Sep 13 08:22PM -0400 In article <20200913-210156.50.0@Peabody.ssl-us.astraweb.com>, waybackNO584SPAM44@yahoo.com says... > haven't taken them out to check them. And of course there's no schematic.   > I'd like to find a fix, but I don't want to make a second career out of it > either. Any suggestions on what to check, or how to approach this?   If there are any small electrolytic capacitors I would chanage them. Many switching supplies have the problem where the capacitors go bad. One way that may help confirm that is to take the one that sometimes works and heat the capacitors with a hot air gun or even a hair dryer and then try starting it. If it starts up faster the capacitors are a sure bet.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Sep 13 02:02PM -0400 I've got a cheap cell phone (LG-C441 ca 2016) which started failing last week - symptom 'no signal'. There appears to be excess battery drain under those conditions, though this may just be the battery monitoring portion going haywire. The battery itself checks out OK.   If the battery is removed for >30 minutes, it will work again - just powering 'off' does no good.   I've transferred the sim card to another phone which maintains the service on the original phone number.   Is there some portion of the dying device that can be identified as defective and possibly be repaired, or is this thing toast?   RL

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