Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 3 topics

abaford95@gmail.com: Oct 02 05:02PM -0700

I have been able to boot load an TMEGA 328 arduino chip which works well on an arduino UNO board (Blink sketch on pin 13). My problem is, I tried several times to wire the 238 ic on a breadboard but does not work. I have followed all circuits connection on the Net to no avail (I tried the blink sketch on pin 19 of the ic). in fact i used the 5 volts port and ground port on the UNO board to power the breadboard. I just saw a circuit on the Net where pins 20 and 21 of the ATMEGA 328 ic were connected together. I want to Know if it is safe to do that to get the ic working will also be happy if someone can direct me to a site on the Net Thanks in advance
cliford abakah <abaford95@gmail.com>: Oct 02 07:42PM -0700

> I have been able to boot load an TMEGA 328 arduino chip which works well on an arduino UNO board (Blink sketch on pin 13). My problem is, I tried several times to wire the 238 ic on a breadboard but does not work. I have followed all circuits connection on the Net to no avail (I tried the blink sketch on pin 19 of the ic). in fact i used the 5 volts port and ground port on the UNO board to power the breadboard. I just saw a circuit on the Net where pins 20 and 21 of the ATMEGA 328 ic were connected together. I want to Know if it is safe to do that to get the ic working will also be happy if someone can direct me to a site on the Net Thanks in advance
should also add that a 10K ohm resistor was connected to Pin 1, two 22pf capacitors were also connected to pins 9 and 10 and other end grounded, 16MHz crystal was also connected between pins 9 and 10. appropriate pins connected to power.
Paul Drahn <pdrahn@jodeco.com>: Oct 03 08:25AM -0700

On 10/2/2020 7:42 PM, cliford abakah wrote:
> On Saturday, October 3, 2020 at 1:02:06 AM UTC+1, abaf...@gmail.com wrote:
>> I have been able to boot load an TMEGA 328 arduino chip which works well on an arduino UNO board (Blink sketch on pin 13). My problem is, I tried several times to wire the 238 ic on a breadboard but does not work. I have followed all circuits connection on the Net to no avail (I tried the blink sketch on pin 19 of the ic). in fact i used the 5 volts port and ground port on the UNO board to power the breadboard. I just saw a circuit on the Net where pins 20 and 21 of the ATMEGA 328 ic were connected together. I want to Know if it is safe to do that to get the ic working will also be happy if someone can direct me to a site on the Net Thanks in advance
> should also add that a 10K ohm resistor was connected to Pin 1, two 22pf capacitors were also connected to pins 9 and 10 and other end grounded, 16MHz crystal was also connected between pins 9 and 10. appropriate pins connected to power.
 
Have you never looked at the Arduino forum: https://forum.arduino.cc/
 
Paul
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 02 10:14AM -0700

The Internet is your friend. Do a search on Molex Connectors, and see if you can find your example therein. Try starting with a pin-count in the initial search as well.
Then search "Multi-prong" connectors. Many more there.
 
To answer your question directly, most appliance internal connectors (at least in the US) are fairly standardized such that you should be able to find it in short order. I use the term "fairly" as the icemaker for our 12-year-old GE refrigerator came with three (3) different adaptor connectors. They were all Molex, but not the same.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Oct 02 03:25PM -0700

On Friday, October 2, 2020 at 10:20:58 AM UTC-4, Vasos Panagiotopoulos wrote:
> key. I'm wondering if we have any connectors in our home "lab" which has been
> around longer than me and I'm also wondering if the wire from dead laptop
> power supplies might work.
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320 shows the common power cords. If your type isn't there, post a photo somewhere and provide link so we can see it.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 02 05:52PM -0700

vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
 
==========================================
 
> How standard are the appliance side 2-connector connectors for AC?
 
**The IEC C7 plug is incredibly standard on a very wide range of appliances.
 
https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/jw-computers-alogic-5m-aus-2-pin-mains-plug-to-iec-c7-male-to-female-mf-aus2pc7-05-252308/
 
> and I'm also wondering if the wire from dead laptop
> power supplies might work.
 
** Almost certainly.
 
A three pin version exists too.
 
 
 
..... Phil
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Oct 02 11:09AM -0700

> > > Most late model TVs have LED issues, and it's usually inside the display. That one you have is a real toilet. Does the LED harness plug into CN802 on the main???
> > there are two harnesses that plug into the led driver board #715G7159-P01-000-004K cn801, cn802,
> CN801 is the harness that goes to the LEDs. If you get no flash whatsoever (however briefly), then you most likely have a bad main board. Even a bad LED strip would allow a short flash of the others before shutdown. The only very rare exception is if this is one of those models that doesn't shut down the LED driver with an open string, and the customer kept watching it as each of the 5 strings died one by one over several months. I've only seen a couple of models that would continue to run with open strings. You really need an LED tester (0-300 volt) that are widely available for less than $50.
 
I have a GJ2C LED TV Backlight Tester.. and i believe it shorted some of the ones i was testing, I was testing some string strips individually, and some led,s came on others didn't, heard a sizzle, tested again, the whole string was dead. so i tested the rest with a variable power supply and salvaged six strings, ordered 10 more from ebay.. so do i test the main board for shorts before installing them, how would i do that???
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 02 04:30PM -0700

On Friday, October 2, 2020 at 2:09:40 PM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote:
> > > there are two harnesses that plug into the led driver board #715G7159-P01-000-004K cn801, cn802,
> > CN801 is the harness that goes to the LEDs. If you get no flash whatsoever (however briefly), then you most likely have a bad main board. Even a bad LED strip would allow a short flash of the others before shutdown. The only very rare exception is if this is one of those models that doesn't shut down the LED driver with an open string, and the customer kept watching it as each of the 5 strings died one by one over several months. I've only seen a couple of models that would continue to run with open strings. You really need an LED tester (0-300 volt) that are widely available for less than $50.
> I have a GJ2C LED TV Backlight Tester.. and i believe it shorted some of the ones i was testing, I was testing some string strips individually, and some led,s came on others didn't, heard a sizzle, tested again, the whole string was dead. so i tested the rest with a variable power supply and salvaged six strings, ordered 10 more from ebay.. so do i test the main board for shorts before installing them, how would i do that???
 
That tester generally won't damage any strips since it's limited to 20ma or so, although I make it a habit of not reversing the polarity of the tester ever just to be sure. While most strings won't be bothered by the tester being connected backward, there are some that will short out the LEDs, particularly if they're already old and have a lot of heat and hours on them. In any case, make damned sure you remove the harness from the LED strips to the main, or you most likely will damage the low side drivers or the IC itself (in your case, it's a combination processor and driver).
 
If you had even a few LEDs not light while others did, your problem is most likely confined to the back light. Replace the LED strips with new ones and it should go. If you used the tester with the LEDs connected to the main you may have damaged the main as well.
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