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Transition Zone <mogulah@hotmail.com>: Nov 29 12:36PM -0800 On Sunday, November 29, 2020 at 9:05:08 AM UTC-5, Transition Zone wrote: > > > I think you do. Are you able to chase me? Don't get out of breath.   > > Stop being such a troll and go away. > I encourage everyone in all the trades to come here, whether its 'horsing around' like this or not. Like on a construction site: everyone gangs up on the person getting the attention. Like in the powder room. All the ladies gang up on the girl with the angelic face withbomb shell body.   OK well, not in the powder room (but everywhere else).

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 30 03:53AM -0800 Well, it has become clear that this individual is an Idiot in Search of a Village - and has found this venue. Given that the purpose of the Village Idiot is to make everyone else in the village look good by comparison, I would posit that this Idiot is performing its job in a most masterful way!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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Transition Zone <mogulah@hotmail.com>: Nov 29 06:05AM -0800 On Monday, November 2, 2020 at 11:21:49 AM UTC-5, Mary R. Smith wrote: > On Sun, 1 Nov 2020 14:09:56 -0800 (PST) the anus of Edward Hernandez <dtga...@gmail.com> sputtered: > > I think you do. Are you able to chase me? Don't get out of breath.   > Stop being such a troll and go away.   I encourage everyone in all the trades to come here, whether its 'horsing around' like this or not. Like on a construction site: everyone gangs up on the person getting the attention. Like in the powder room. All the ladies gang up on the girl with the angelic face withbomb shell body.

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Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 27 02:25PM -0500 On 11/27/20 7:24 AM, Peter W. wrote: > On that note, every day is a rotten day for the drongo from down-under. It has my sympathy, but not my respect.   Looks like he must have responded to my comment since you responded. Do yourself a favor (maybe?) and plonk him like I did. No point in introducing more craziness into a world that is already crazy enough!

Don't Feed The Troll <dont-feed-the-troll@nowhere.invalid>: Nov 27 08:21PM > Looks like he must have responded to my comment since you responded. > Do yourself a favor (maybe?) and plonk him like I did. No point in > introducing more craziness into a world that is already crazy enough!   If you check the headers, you'll see that Peter W. uses google groups to post -- which means he has no killfile capability and can't have his newsreader hide his postings.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 27 02:57PM -0800 Chuck wrote:   ==================   Get off this NG - or I will make you.     ......... love, Phil

Somewhere Over the Rainbow <blah@nowhere.invalid>: Nov 27 11:16PM > Chuck wrote:   > ==================   > Get off this NG - or I will make you.   One, you can't -- Usenet does not give you that power.   Two, Chuck has killfiled you, so he will not see any of your outbursts again. That's what the "plonk" (https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=plonk) means.   Chuck is able to killfile you because unlike you, who is using that awful google groups web UI, he uses a real newsreader and so he can add you to a list (the killfile) in his newsreader to have it automatically ignore your rants.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 27 05:37PM -0600 On 11/27/20 4:57 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > ==================   > Get off this NG - or I will make you.   > ......... love, Phil   This should be interesting to watch.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 27 06:28PM -0800 Some things to keep in mind.   The Drongo from down-under is:   a) Alone. b) Owns nothing other than what is on its back and a few accessories thereto. c) Neither friends, nor family, nor pets. d) Only those neighbors that perforce share the flat complex in which it squats. e) Is very likely older than I am - and therefore there no prospects of anything ever getting any better for it.   As previously noted - a creature to be pitied - not one due any respect.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 27 06:41PM -0800 Peter W. is a Vile POS LIAR wrote: ---------------------------------------------------   ** Peter Weike is a vile, raving lunatic and a public menace on usenet.   The geriatric fuckhead is actually a *jumped up radio ham* with mental issues and a huge dose of ASD or autism.   But he is not to be pitied for his condition.   He is to be despised.       ..... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 28 08:03AM -0800 Boo!

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 27 09:23PM -0500 Ok, a friend brings by his sound maker and it seems that the main chip is burned out. Does anyone know where a genuine replacement may be found?

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Nov 27 06:29PM -0800 On 11/27/2020 6:23 PM, Chuck wrote: > Ok, a friend brings by his sound maker and it seems that the main chip > is burned out.  Does anyone know where a genuine replacement may be found? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Texas-Instruments-SN76477-Complex-Sound-Generator-/131499090294

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 27 09:38PM -0500 On 11/27/20 9:29 PM, Mike S wrote: >> is burned out.  Does anyone know where a genuine replacement may be >> found? > https://www.ebay.com/itm/Texas-Instruments-SN76477-Complex-Sound-Generator-/131499090294   Thanks, but, wow, I see why he wants it fixed. Just saw the Remco generators with $700+ asking prices! The Remco is what I'm working on.

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Nov 27 02:01PM -0700 On Fri, 27 Nov 2020 20:21:21 +0000 (UTC), Don't Feed The Troll   >If you check the headers, you'll see that Peter W. uses google groups >to post -- which means he has no killfile capability and can't have his >newsreader hide his postings.   My Google Filter Message-ID:googlegroups.com     KenW

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Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 26 11:00PM -0500 On 11/26/20 7:33 AM, Peter W. wrote: > b) Were it to behave face-to-face as it does here, it would be dead. Australians are not anywhere near as tolerant as Brits or Americans of that sort of idiocy. > c) It is on very powerful meds. When it takes them properly, it is not a half-bad tech. When it does not, it remains a not-half-bad tech, but all you will see is that other half.   > In general, it is best ignored.   Took me by surprise, started off good and then, bam, about face, day to night, whatever. I'd hate to be his neighbor, family, or even his pet! In any case, I'll no longer see his posts after his tirade.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 26 08:35PM -0800 Chuck wrote: ============   > Took me by surprise, started off good and then, bam, about face, day to > night, whatever. I'd hate to be his neighbor, family, or even his pet! > In any case, I'll no longer see his posts after his tirade.   --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** FYI Mr Shithead:   Peter Weike is a vile, raving lunatic and a public menace on usenet.   The geriatric fool is actually is a jumped up radio ham with mental issues and a huge dose of ASD or autism.   I *was* happy to assist you till I realised you were a dishonest little shit scamming you way through life.   Have a rotten day.     ...... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 27 04:24AM -0800 On that note, every day is a rotten day for the drongo from down-under. It has my sympathy, but not my respect.

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Nov 26 10:09PM -0600 Peter W. wrote:   > Glad to be of help. Every so often, I will go ahead and actually read a > manual, knowing full well that it is against the Male Code. Sometimes there's a reason NOT to read the manual. I recently bought a (well) used pick and place machine (Quad QSA-30A, made by Samsung). Yes, there can be some translation and cultural issues with foreign-made machines. But, this takes it to an entirely new level! For such a massively complicated machine and software, you need GOOD manuals to walk you through it all. Fortunately, I was able to connect with the guy who did the training classes on this machine at the factory, and he was able to guide me through it. Without his help, I would have junked the machine. The (English) manual has bits of Korean scattered through it, never explains how the machine works, and is basically a TERSE desciption of all the buttons and dialogs of the software. It tells what the button is called, but DOESN'T really tell you what the button DOES, how it does it, etc.   I learned my previous machine from the manuals in a few days and was cranking out boards in a week. This machine took THREE MONTHS of frustration (although part of that was taken up fixing things wrong with the machine.)   There are some REALLY BAD manuals out there, to the level that you know LESS after reading them than before you started.   Jon

"Miguel Giménez" <me@privacy.net>: Nov 27 12:28PM +0100 El 27/11/2020 a las 5:09, Jon Elson escribió:   > There are some REALLY BAD manuals out there, to the level that you know LESS > after reading them than before you started.   > Jon   Translations can be a big problem, I tend to read the english manual even if spanish ones are available.   I didn't even think reading the user manual because I am tired of the stupid troubleshooting guides: printer don't print -> check if power is on, or check if there is paper on the tray... I know some users may need this kind of help, but it is uselees for most of us.   This Brady manual was more complete and helpful, next time I will read the manual.   -- Saludos Miguel Giménez

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Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Nov 25 12:39PM -0800 Hi Group, can someone help please,.? I put the LVDS wiring harness on wrong in the main board #T. RSC8.10B 12305.. B12083477,. and smoked Q7, I know it's a transistor, can someone tell me a part number or suggest a replacement???

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 26 08:19AM -0800 On Wednesday, November 25, 2020 at 3:40:01 PM UTC-5, Stu jaxon wrote: > Hi Group, can someone help please,.? I put the LVDS wiring harness on wrong in the main board #T. RSC8.10B 12305.. B12083477,. and smoked Q7, I know it's a transistor, can someone tell me a part number or suggest a replacement???   I'm sure you're aware there are no schematics anywhere on those mains.   There's a high probability that that transistor is the 12V switch used to power up the TCON on command. Remove what's left of the transistor, and see if either the collector or emitter of that transistor rings out at zero ohms to the paralleled red wires of the LVDS harness. There are typically 4, 6, or 8 wires grouped at one end of the harness that provides the 12V. If that group connects to that transistor, it's probably just a switch.   If so, plug in the TV with the transistor removed and take some voltage readings. If you see 12V appear at the E or C when you power up, take a reading on the base. Your base reading will determine whether to use an npn or pnp.   Alternatively, you can just jump out the E and C and call it a day. Those mains were used in low end toilets like Elements, Sceptres, Insignias, etc. If your lucky, nothing else beside the switch will have been damaged.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Nov 25 10:48AM -0800 >the shipping label. When sellers are refunding before you send back the >item, are you still supposed to send it back with the prepaid shipping >label, or not? Up to now, I have sent them back.   I think that's the fair and honorable thing to do... you're honoring the terms of the refund offer, as the seller is trusting you to do. Not sending back the product would be a violation of that trust (and the contract of the sale).   The exception would be if the seller tells you that there's no need to return the bad unit. I've had this happen occasionally, when the unit in question was either irreparably damaged in shipment (the package must have gotten caught in a transport-belt gearbox) or where it was probably not economically feasible to repair it (a replacement battery for a cellphone which apparently had a bad control chip and wasn't "seen" by the phone). The battery vendor just asked that I dispose of the dead unit properly via an e-waste collection, rather than throwing it into the trash.

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 25 02:18PM -0500 On 11/25/20 1:48 PM, Dave Platt wrote: > "seen" by the phone). The battery vendor just asked that I dispose of > the dead unit properly via an e-waste collection, rather than throwing > it into the trash.   Actually, with the horrible smell that this one dimmer still produces from the left over residue, I have no choice but to keep the sealed and ready to ship package outdoors just in a location where rain won't bother it. It would have been a good candidate for just throwing out, but sending it along with the two unused ones. Just waiting on the seller's return address.   I did have one item I actually tossed a couple of years ago and that was a replacement mercury vapor ballast for one that failed after many years. Within a short time, the replacement also failed and smoked up the outdoor container it was in badly enough that I had to replace that too along with a new ballast. In that case, the seller just wanted to see pictures and then told me to throw it away. That sealed ballast, being outdoors, did trip the breaker when it went bad but not before smoking up its chassis.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 25 12:30PM -0800 Chuck wrote: ============   > have been registered on eBay, that I left a negative feedback. Really, > this seller should have not haggled on this and refunded immediately > especially after I submitted the pictures.   ** Pics of the damage you caused by stupidity ?   You have been less than honest about what you were *really* doing all along.   What PSU was used ?? What LED lights ? Did you make a wiring error ?   You sound like an expert at blame shifting.     ..... Phil

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 25 03:48PM -0500 On 11/25/20 3:30 PM, Phil Allison wrote: > Did you make a wiring error ?   > You sound like an expert at blame shifting.   > ..... Phil   Uh, excuse me, but I have already made myself quite clear and won't elaborate further. If you doubt, then order one and have a load drawing 13.8 VDC at 7 A from a linear supply and see what happens in a few hours. You said before that the 12-24 V was missing information. Who would ever know that it is only a 12V device because that's not what they advertise. In addition to no heatsinking. I think I've been clear. I thought you were helping, but now I question YOUR motives.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 25 03:33PM -0800 Chuck the Troll puked: ==================     > > You sound like an expert at blame shifting.   > Uh, excuse me, but I have already made myself quite clear and won't > elaborate further.   ** So now you post two, great big lies. Now I know you are hiding the truth.   Thanks for removing all doubt.   > If you doubt, then order one and have a load drawing > 13.8 VDC at 7 A from a linear supply and see what happens in a few > hours. You said before that the 12-24 V was missing information.   ** Not what I wrote at all - liar.   > Who would ever know that it is only a 12V device   ** That is nothing like what I wrote !!. -------------------------------------------------------   You are one pig ignorant ass aren't you ?     ..... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 26 04:33AM -0800 Chuck:   In short order, you will learn several things about the drongo from down-under:   a) The sun shines from its fundament, and only from its fundament. Whatever else you might see is only a poor substitute for the sun, so do not be mistaken! b) Were it to behave face-to-face as it does here, it would be dead. Australians are not anywhere near as tolerant as Brits or Americans of that sort of idiocy. c) It is on very powerful meds. When it takes them properly, it is not a half-bad tech. When it does not, it remains a not-half-bad tech, but all you will see is that other half.   In general, it is best ignored.

Cyndi Tiger Dobrinic <tiger56usmc@gmail.com>: Nov 25 03:30PM -0800

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Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 25 10:50AM -0500 Ok, so after the awful burning up of the dimmer, it took several days for the seller to finally agree to take the 3 I originally ordered back (1 burned, 2 unused). Something to keep in mind. Take a look at seller returns. If they don't say "30 day free returns" for their policy, look for someone else! At least regarding items like this. This guy had returns but seller pays shipping, which I adamantly refused. It took several days of standing firm once I opened a case along with photos of the insides of the burned dimmer with a final threat that I would get my money back on the date eBay was allowed to "step in." That date would have been this coming Friday. The seller finally agreed. Looks like he's Chinese because he must have asked multiple times if I wanted to get it repaired or was I sure I didn't want a new one. NO, I want to return them all for full refund and you pay shipping because they are not as described and I consider them unsafe. After plugging in shipping estimates today, I can see why he was so concerned. He sent them in a cushioned bag, but not taking any chances in case he claims damaged upon return, I was going to return them in a fairly large box... at a cost of more than $50 US. Wow! Not sure what's happened and I guess I have been out of selling for a while now, but never expected a rate like that! So, I will reuse his bag, send insured, keep records and screenshots of everything and he will pay it all. If not, I will have all records for eBay if/when the time comes. All this because seller didn't have "free 30 day returns". By the way, sending them back in his bag will cost $16.90 insured.   I had a Chinese power supply arrive DOA a month ago. Seller had "free 30 day returns." I started the return process and within a few hours was the Paypal refund. Before the refund, I had received the link for the shipping label. When sellers are refunding before you send back the item, are you still supposed to send it back with the prepaid shipping label, or not? Up to now, I have sent them back.   Just some info you may find useful... or not.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 25 08:22AM -0800 More important than anything else you might do would be to leave direct and honest feedback. This may, possibly, help the next potential victim (oops, buyer, that is).   Friends do not let friends buy from China (when there is any possible alternative).   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 25 11:29AM -0500 On 11/25/20 11:22 AM, Peter W. wrote:   > Friends do not let friends buy from China (when there is any possible alternative).   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I am considering it and it would be the first time, in the 25 years I have been registered on eBay, that I left a negative feedback. Really, this seller should have not haggled on this and refunded immediately especially after I submitted the pictures. Not being set up in the correct way, however, meant that he can't even have a prepaid label made.

Hilda Winkler <hildawinkler77@gmail.com>: Nov 24 06:40PM -0800 > Did you check for the ps on command from the main back to the power supply?   > These things "ping pong". The power supply sends the standby voltage to the main when AC is applied. The main (on command) then sends a logic high back to the power supply to turn on the rest of the supply. The power supply goes into full run and provides the rest of the voltages, including the 12V or 24V back to the main to allow full operation.   > All we know right now is that you have the first step: the standby voltage. Push the power button and see if there's any change on the command line back to the power supply. If not, best odds is that the BGA got torched during the reflow.     with AC applied. I jumped standby pin to pwr_on pin with a 270 ohm resistor. I got 12v on 3 pins of the power supply. TV did not power on. No voltage going to the backlights.??? so i guess the BGA is fried???

Lisa Court <lisacourtcondos@gmail.com>: Nov 25 06:08AM -0800 > > These things "ping pong". The power supply sends the standby voltage to the main when AC is applied. The main (on command) then sends a logic high back to the power supply to turn on the rest of the supply. The power supply goes into full run and provides the rest of the voltages, including the 12V or 24V back to the main to allow full operation.   > > All we know right now is that you have the first step: the standby voltage. Push the power button and see if there's any change on the command line back to the power supply. If not, best odds is that the BGA got torched during the reflow. > with AC applied. I jumped standby pin to pwr_on pin with a 270 ohm resistor. I got 12v on 3 pins of the power supply. TV did not power on. No voltage going to the backlights.??? so i guess the BGA is fried???   From my chair, yes. Again, BGA reflow is a bit of an art (and maybe some Voodoo as well). I admit I don't have a handle on this either but since replacing BGA chips on TV mains are not economical, so a reflow is get out of jail free card if it works.   No new mains have been available for that series since shortly after the TV was first made, and most of that model have issues with the main board. Since the board has several known issues, a used main board is a crap shoot. You may be back in the same boat in 6 months if you install a used board. I'd troll around ebay and wait for a cheap one that has a guarantee attached. That model is a good performer (local dimming as well), but it had issues for sure.

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Nov 25 08:31AM -0500 On 11/16/20 5:14 PM, Eli the Bearded wrote:   > Elijah > ------ > does still has a decent furniture thrift store near by   My theory is that if my better half still puts up with me, she can't really be that picky. ;)   Cheers   Phil Hobbs

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 24 11:36AM -0800 On 2020/11/24 6:42 a.m., Peter W. wrote:   > https://www.ebay.com/itm/20Amp-Variac-Transformer-Variable-AC-Voltage-Regulator-Metered-2000VA-0-130V/124023830503 This device does not. Note the difference in cost. That cost is not only for those obscene profits on the part of the manufacturer, but also for proper design, proper testing, basic quality control, insurance and all the other unnecessary niceties avoided by the resellers and their suppliers. So, the bottom line is that you get what you pay for, with all the consequences attached thereto.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Thanks for taking the time to reply to such depth. I will be flagging this so it is easily retrieved in the future!   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 24 04:05PM -0500 On 11/24/20 2:36 PM, John Robertson wrote:   > Thanks for taking the time to reply to such depth. I will be flagging > this so it is easily retrieved in the future!   > John :-#)#   I appreciate this too. Further investigation on my part might shed light on a cause for both of my dimmer failures: too high of input voltage! Even though advertised as 12-24VDC input, I tend not to trust this figure and, after looking at the components inside, I think it's 12V, period! Unfortunately, the driving supplies I had been using for this were more like for standard Ham radio, 13.8 VDC. Perhaps this higher voltage could not be handled by the dimmer components.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 24 02:07PM -0800 Chuck wrote: ============ > 12V, period! Unfortunately, the driving supplies I had been using for > this were more like for standard Ham radio, 13.8 VDC. Perhaps this > higher voltage could not be handled by the dimmer components.   ** You have an obvious overheating failure of one mosfet in a parallel pair. As mosfets heat up, the on resistance increases by a factor of 2 or more. So the temp rise does as well. Having no heatsink at all in that device is nuts. Bad design, buy something else.     ...... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 24 02:38PM -0800 Chuck wrote: > 12V, period! Unfortunately, the driving supplies I had been using for > this were more like for standard Ham radio, 13.8 VDC. Perhaps this > higher voltage could not be handled by the dimmer components.   ** You have never posted what PSU voltage you have been using ???   The rating of 12-24V applies to the LED array it is driving.   You cannot use a 24V supply, connect a 12 V LED array and set the control half way.     ..... Phil

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 24 07:35PM -0500 On 11/24/20 5:38 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > The rating of 12-24V applies to the LED array it is driving.   > You cannot use a 24V supply, connect a 12 V LED array and set the control half way.   > ..... Phil   So, it could have been either lack of heatsinking, my 1.8V overvoltage, or both?   Thanks for the clarification on the 12-24V. I certainly didn't know this!

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 24 05:04PM -0800 On Wednesday, November 25, 2020 at 11:35:21 AM UTC+11, Chuck wrote:   > > ..... Phil   > So, it could have been either lack of heatsinking, my 1.8V overvoltage, > or both?   ** Was you 8A current figure when the controller was set to full ?   > Thanks for the clarification on the 12-24V. I certainly didn't know this!   ** Yes - it is missing data in the advertising.   A PWM controller is *not* a voltage regulator, merely a " time division" current reducer.   If the voltage is a little high, the current will be way higher.     ...... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 24 09:12AM -0800 Glad to be of help. Every so often, I will go ahead and actually read a manual, knowing full well that it is against the Male Code.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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"Miguel Giménez" <me@privacy.net>: Nov 24 04:31PM +0100 Hello   I have a BBP11-34L Brady thermal printer, and it has worked well until I changed the ribbon about three months ago (I have installed 18 ribbons so far, so I think it is not an installation error).   From then on, the printer prints two or three labels and stops in half of the next label indicating an error with the top LED turning red. If I press the top button the cycle repeats. If I raise the cover, the ribbon is adhered to the label, but it is easy to remove.   I have cleaned the thermal head and the rollers, tried a new ribbon and new labels, changed head temperature, changed printing speed, tested using the USB interface and the Ethernet one... Always the same issue.   Thank you in advance for any help.   -- Best regards Miguel Giménez

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 24 07:48AM -0800 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/455613/Brady-Bbp11-34l.html?page=28#manual   Have you been through the troubleshooting guide? Speculating wildly - it seems as if the print head is not hot enough so the ink does not separate cleanly from the ribbon to the label.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Miguel Giménez" <me@privacy.net>: Nov 24 05:38PM +0100 El 24/11/2020 a las 16:48, Peter W. escribió:   > Have you been through the troubleshooting guide? Speculating wildly - it seems as if the print head is not hot enough so the ink does not separate cleanly from the ribbon to the label.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Thenk you, that did the trick. I have cleaned all with ethanol, but the manual says the print head must be cleaned with 100 % acetone.   -- Best regards Miguel Giménez

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 23 03:50PM -0500 Well, I have one additional so called "30 amp" Chinese dimmer remaining after the prior one smoked. This one had a circuit breaker and it did go today, but not before it started smoking. As I said, I have a good Astron power supply on the way to replace, but I still had the dimmer in place until then and outdoors.   This time, I decided to open it up and see what's going on. As others have said, the Chinese tend to exaggerate ratings so "30 amp" was probably far from it, but I was surprised what I saw internally:   two HY1707 Mosfets an LM358 a 78L05 a 555 timer   At 12V, 7 amp load, it seems like it should have been able to handle the load, but I am wondering that since I was driving it with a switching supply, maybe that somehow affected the dimmer? By the way, the burnout was one of the HY1707's. Perhaps they actually need a heatsink instead of just being attached to the circuit board?   That's absolutely all for the Chinese stuff. I had a constant voltage/ current module on the way, but not even going to open it. Can't trust it anymore.

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 23 01:09PM -0800 On Monday, November 23, 2020 at 3:50:47 PM UTC-5, Chuck wrote:   > That's absolutely all for the Chinese stuff. I had a constant voltage/ > current module on the way, but not even going to open it. Can't trust > it anymore.   A device like that needs a proper heatsink. Even if the metal tab is soldered to the PC it's still inadequate for high power applications.

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 23 04:13PM -0500 >> current module on the way, but not even going to open it. Can't trust >> it anymore.   > A device like that needs a proper heatsink. Even if the metal tab is soldered to the PC it's still inadequate for high power applications.   I think that's why they are burning up, then. Nothing else on the board was fried, only the one Mosfet.

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 23 04:17PM -0500 On 11/23/20 4:13 PM, Chuck wrote: >> soldered to the PC it's still inadequate for high power applications.   > I think that's why they are burning up, then.  Nothing else on the board > was fried, only the one Mosfet.   Going back to my ham radio days, my 2 meter amps of 100 W had heatsinks of probably 4x6 and an inch or two thick, IIRC. Sometimes even a fan too. My guess is that would at the very least be needed for these dimmers and even that heatsink size will get it no where near say 300 W+. Shame on them.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 23 02:39PM -0800 On 2020/11/23 12:50 p.m., Chuck wrote:   > That's absolutely all for the Chinese stuff.  I had a constant voltage/ > current module on the way, but not even going to open it.  Can't trust > it anymore.   No UL approval I'm sure.   Why would you trust it then?   Unregulated electrical junk sold on Amazon can be hazardous to your house or your family.   John :-#(#

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 23 03:18PM -0800 John Robertson wrote: ==================   > No UL approval I'm sure.   ** What standard is there for such a device the runs on 12- 24V DC ??   > Why would you trust it then?   ** UL does not check for good design or reliability.     > Unregulated electrical junk sold on Amazon can be hazardous to your > house or your family.   **True - but this is not a good example for that.     ..... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 23 03:49PM -0800 On 2020/11/23 3:18 p.m., Phil Allison wrote: >> house or your family.   > **True - but this is not a good example for that.   > ...... Phil   Fair enough, under - what is it - 32VAC is unregulated...   John ;-#)#

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 24 06:42AM -0800 https://www.cui.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-ul-listed-and-ul-recognized   https://store.intellaliftparts.com/blog/ul-csa-etl-ce-abbreviations/   Per the NEC and various codes, powered item permanently installed (in the USA) is required to carry a UL/ETL listing. Technically, any mains-attached (plug-in) item sold to the public (in the USA) is also required to carry a UL/ETL listing. At whatever operating voltage. UL Listed items made up of sub-assemblies will typically carry UR symbols on those sub-assemblies. Repairs made to such items must be with UR components.   Where this gets cute: That junk from China is sold from, and originates in China, is typically shipped via subsidized Chinese Post, and directly to the consumer - thereby avoiding the letter of regulations and codes. And then there are here-today-gone-tomorrow resellers that get around the code by simply ignoring it. Making their consumers potential victims.   https://www.galco.com/buy/Staco-Energy/3PN1010B?source=googleshopping&utm_source=adwords&utm_campaign=&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fqpZoQpgdsKcuyerBdXTNjaU9OAZzWB_xlXjumLQK-2_lBh92pHqrxoCQPcQAvD_BwE This device carries a CSA mark.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/20Amp-Variac-Transformer-Variable-AC-Voltage-Regulator-Metered-2000VA-0-130V/124023830503 This device does not. Note the difference in cost. That cost is not only for those obscene profits on the part of the manufacturer, but also for proper design, proper testing, basic quality control, insurance and all the other unnecessary niceties avoided by the resellers and their suppliers. So, the bottom line is that you get what you pay for, with all the consequences attached thereto.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 24 09:54AM -0500 On 11/24/20 9:42 AM, Peter W. wrote:   > Where this gets cute: That junk from China is sold from, and originates in China, is typically shipped via subsidized Chinese Post, and directly to the consumer - thereby avoiding the letter of regulations and codes. And then there are here-today-gone-tomorrow resellers that get around the code by simply ignoring it. Making their consumers potential victims.   > https://www.galco.com/buy/Staco-Energy/3PN1010B?source=googleshopping&utm_source=adwords&utm_campaign=&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fqpZoQpgdsKcuyerBdXTNjaU9OAZzWB_xlXjumLQK-2_lBh92pHqrxoCQPcQAvD_BwE This device carries a CSA mark.   > https://www.ebay.com/itm/20Amp-Variac-Transformer-Variable-AC-Voltage-Regulator-Metered-2000VA-0-130V/124023830503 This device does not. Note the difference in cost. That cost is not only for those obscene profits on the part of the manufacturer, but also for proper design, proper testing, basic quality control, insurance and all the other unnecessary niceties avoided by the resellers and their suppliers. So, the bottom line is that you get what you pay for, with all the consequences attached thereto.     Yes, I definitely see that now. Unfortunately, I had really hoped to be able to use one of these dimmers because the linear supply is going to take up more space, but I will not sacrifice my safety for space. I do wonder about something like PC power supplies. I have some old Dell ones, many times used for other purposes (those three voltage rails sure come in handy sometimes), but none that I can see have any UL listings. I've had desktop PC's run for years 24/7 without incident. Anything that ever went bad was usually memory or hard drives and such. I've had a lot more trouble with laptops (but still not laptop power supplies... motherboards!), but that's a story for another day.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 24 07:05AM -0800 https://www.cpumedics.com/dell-cpb09-000a-350w-power-supply-for-inspiron-530-531-vostro-400-studio-540-xps-8000-8100/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fot0mFXYGy4XdUEa0WJuHrkiygErfrh6ZpwTrkLXFBma4NFd4h_nExoCAlsQAvD_BwE     https://www.cpumedics.com/dell-dk87p-240w-power-supply-with-2x-connectors-6-pin-for-optiplex-3050-5050-7050-inspiron-3668/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fvDBEvqtTAvR17GLXK6yGIeqzOcCCYc4zSUHOW1AaB3vBYqqUvmrwhoCExQQAvD_BwE   If sold in the United States:   There will not be a UL mark on a computer power supply. There will be a UR mark on a computer powers-supply. If there is neither, it is a knock-off.   The power-supply is a sub-assembly. Not the main event.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 24 10:18AM -0500 On 11/24/20 10:05 AM, Peter W. wrote:   > The power-supply is a sub-assembly. Not the main event.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Interesting   https://www.pcscsecurity.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/ULversusUR_PCSC.pdf   Any external supplies I have do have the UR mark.   Well, thanks for the info. Nice to learn something new everyday. I will no longer be tempted by the lure of the cheap Chinese eBay junk.   I will say that, by all accounts, this should have been a decent dimmer judging by the components within but I now believe the lack of heatsinking was the reason for the failures. The internal design looks simple enough that, before I trash it, I may try and draw out a schematic since most of the schematics for this junk don't exist.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Nov 23 10:17AM -0800 > guijarrosoy wrote:   > Or a guitar amp, where most tubes end up that way over time.   > ..... Phil   That's considered a feature, not a bug.

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Hilda Winkler <hildawinkler77@gmail.com>: Nov 22 09:27AM -0800 On Thursday, November 19, 2020 at 11:07:18 AM UTC-5, Chuck wrote:   > >after reheating the BGA chip, i checked the power supply board. and I'm getting zero volts going to the main board on all pins. looks like a short, checked all connections. maybe i could have melted the solder under the chip when reheating and created a short???   > Very possible. That is what happened when I reflowed a bga chip on my > son's X-Box.     I did look for shorts, didn't find any. i do get 5v stanby. I get 5v on fuse one on main board nothing on fuse two, and no voltage on ce2 and ce2 caps, these are two of the five bulging caps that i replaced... i get 5v on voltage regulator main board

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 23 04:50AM -0800 > > >after reheating the BGA chip, i checked the power supply board. and I'm getting zero volts going to the main board on all pins. looks like a short, checked all connections. maybe i could have melted the solder under the chip when reheating and created a short??? x. > I did look for shorts, didn't find any. i do get 5v stanby. I get 5v on fuse one on main board nothing on fuse two, and no voltage on ce2 and ce2 caps, these are two of the five bulging caps that i replaced... i get 5v on voltage regulator main board   Did you check for the ps on command from the main back to the power supply?   These things "ping pong". The power supply sends the standby voltage to the main when AC is applied. The main (on command) then sends a logic high back to the power supply to turn on the rest of the supply. The power supply goes into full run and provides the rest of the voltages, including the 12V or 24V back to the main to allow full operation.   All we know right now is that you have the first step: the standby voltage. Push the power button and see if there's any change on the command line back to the power supply. If not, best odds is that the BGA got torched during the reflow.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 22 09:29AM -0800 On 2020/11/21 10:39 p.m., Phil Allison wrote:   > Problem solved by the damn Ruskies !!! > ===============================   > ...... Phil   So, what do I win? There must be a prize...   John ;-#)#   PS, the Ruskies can do some things just fine it seems, even improving designs from time to time. Some interesting electronic devices come from there.

guijarrosoy <fuertelindo@gmail.com>: Nov 22 09:52AM -0800 El domingo, 22 de noviembre de 2020 a las 14:29:17 UTC-3, John Robertson escribió:   > PS, the Ruskies can do some things just fine it seems, even improving > designs from time to time. Some interesting electronic devices come from > there.   Hi there... 1. Did the 58.55 Hz hum disappeared after swaping tubes? 2. What was the voltage at SPEAKER LEADS or output connector when the hum was present? 3. What was the voltage at SPEAKER LEADS or output connector when the standby switch cut the hum out? 4. Did you have all volume/gain controls counter clockwise (Zero level)? 5. Have you checked the amplifier specifications for residual hum and noises , for expected Signal to noise ratio?   Please let us know. Thanks and regards.   Al.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 22 03:42PM -0800 guijarrosoy wrote:   ------------------- > Hi there...   > 1. Did the 58.55 Hz hum disappeared after swaping tubes?   ** Absolutely.   > 2. What was the voltage at SPEAKER LEADS or output connector when the hum was present?   ** About 1V rms.   The problem was exactly as I stated - must be you have never seen a microphonic output tube.   Or a guitar amp, where most tubes end up that way over time.       ..... Phil

Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 22 11:49AM -0500 On 11/16/20 1:50 PM, Chuck wrote: > probably then some.  Needless to say, the only way I'll be using any > more of these is with an in line fuse as well.  Of course, the dimmer > doesn't have one inside.   That's it, no more Chinese dimmers! I just can't trust them. This week, I managed to pick up a linear variable voltage and current Astron 12 amp power supply. It won't be as efficient as switching units, but Astron is apparently a winner with amateur radio folks and reviews tout its reliability. I looked at the schematic and it seems that all of their units use the same general design, just different transformers and components of course as size increases. I like the fact that the schematics are readily available unlike this Chinese stuff where it is next to impossible to find one! I have even been able to peek at several internally online of course, but apparently people often tweak and modify them and post images and such online. Nice to see the innards.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 22 12:17PM -0500 In article <rpe4qj$42v$1@dont-email.me>, chuck445@yahoonospam.com says... > next to impossible to find one! I have even been able to peek at > several internally online of course, but apparently people often tweak > and modify them and post images and such online. Nice to see the innards.   Astron has been using the same basic design for many years for their linear supplies. There is almost no difference in any of them, just more pass transistors and bigger transformers. That same circit has been used in many other power supplies with minor variations. All designed around the 723 voltage regulator. It is almost like a cockroach and the circuit will not die as it is very reliable.   I have a 50 amp one that has been on 24/7 for around 30 years. Only cut off when I moved and to rearange the equiipment.   They do have two weakness in that if you push their ratings the transistor socket pins get loose and do not make good contact. If the power is cut off and right back on say as can hapen during a storm the over voltage protection will trip and you have to cut it off,count to about 10 slow and then turn it back on.   I have another supply of no name that uses the same basic circuit and it has been on over 40 years.

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