- cigarette lighter plug end getting quite warm - 5 Updates
- power adapter connectors? - 4 Updates
- conductive Path on printed circuit board? - 3 Updates
| OJ Oxford <bestnet@none.com>: Nov 17 12:36PM -0500 On 11/8/20 6:41 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > <https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=inline+blade+fuse+holders> > There should be at least one fuse in the circuit. > Good luck... Well, the Hobby King XT60's, and my 12 gauge silicon wire arrived nearly at the same time, but now I have a new problem: even with a 240 watt soldering iron (which starts to melt the XT60's), I can't solder the wire to the connectors. I've tried pre-tinning the wire first, but I can only get parts of it tinned and not the entire wire. This is never going to work for the low resistance, quick connections I'm going to need. I think I may have to revisit the crimping method unless you can suggest something I may be overlooking..... |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 17 10:18AM -0800 Many times that silicon-insulated wire is contaminated by the insulation and will not take solder. Clean it with an astringent such as alcohol, followed by vinegar, then alcohol again. Then use liquid flux. It will be fine. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 17 11:01AM -0800 On Tue, 17 Nov 2020 12:36:07 -0500, OJ Oxford <bestnet@none.com> wrote: >Well, the Hobby King XT60's, and my 12 gauge silicon wire arrived nearly What are the specs on the #12 AWG silicon wire? Solid or stranded. Silicon insulated wire is offered with waterproof insulation, which is designed to prevent water incursion through capillary action. That means no air gaps among the strands of wire, which is done by coating each individual wire strand with silicon insulation. Others such cables are filled with silicon grease, which coats the strands making them difficult to solder. For example: <https://huesonwire.com/site/wire-and-cable-products/water-blocked-cable/> <https://huesonwire.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Sell-Sheet-waterblock-CS-2019-WEB.pdf> I used to design marine radios, where various waterproof power cables tended to cause problems for installers who were not familiar with the problem. >at the same time, but now I have a new problem: even with a 240 watt >soldering iron (which starts to melt the XT60's), I can't solder the >wire to the connectors. Does your solder have any flux inside? Have you tried using flux: >I've tried pre-tinning the wire first, but I >can only get parts of it tinned and not the entire wire. Use fairly fine sandpaper or emery cloth, about 400 grit, to scrape off whatever is coating the wire strands. If desperate, burn off the insulation with a propane torch, or use a solder pot if one is available. Scrape off the burned coating with sandpaper, and tin it with solder (and flux). >This is never >going to work for the low resistance, quick connections I'm going to >need. True. However, such wires are constantly being used in marine service, so my guess(tm) is you're doing something wrong somewhere. I think the key here would be to disclose exactly what type of wire you're using so we can make a determination. I have no doubt that soldering to the gold plated connectors will not be a problem. Also, a 240 watt soldering iron is much too big for soldering XT60 connectors. Something around 80 watts with a chisel tip and some temperature control would probably solder without melting the insulation. >I think I may have to revisit the crimping method unless you can >suggest something I may be overlooking..... You can't crimp the XT60 connectors, so you'll need to start over and find a different connector. If my guess(tm) that your wire stands are coated with insulation, crimp won't work at all. Look into finding some non-waterproof #12 AWG cable. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| OJ Oxford <bestnet@none.com>: Nov 17 07:04PM -0500 On 11/17/20 2:01 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > find a different connector. If my guess(tm) that your wire stands are > coated with insulation, crimp won't work at all. Look into finding > some non-waterproof #12 AWG cable. Well, since I last wrote, I finally completed six male/female connectors. I was smart before I started in that I opened the door with a fan aiming output outside. Good thing I did because some of the nylon got to smelling. Unfortunately, I ran out of solder and all I had left was silver solder, which I already hate. I tried using it to finish and abandoned when I started running into a lot of difficulty. So, to save my sanity, ordered some more 60/40. All I have are some 25 watt pencil irons, maybe a 40 watt, and then we jump to a Weller 100/140 gun and 150/240 Radio Shack gun. I don't think either had the right tip. I might be able to use the Weller if I can find the correct tip (or order one). I'll apply flame to the wires and see if anything burns off once I strip away the outer silicone shell. This #12 is very fine silvery looking strands and very flexible. It is of the kind used in RC (radio controlled cars and aircraft) often for battery connections, etc. Because I wasn't able to finish all of the soldering today, I did put some under some screw terminals and tightened down onto the wire. The circuit powered on and no problems. Getting rid of the cigarette lighter has made quite a difference with heating. Replaced with the chassis mount XT60 and now no heating there BUT I can't figure out how to keep the plug in the chassis when disconnecting. The whole thing wants to come out. No, I don't have any flux. I am going to order some at the same time I order more solder later. BTW, any suggestions for a proper solder tip for my Weller 100/140 gun would be welcome or even a recommended soldering iron but I want to avoid the temp controlled ones to keep cost down. Thanks for your encouraging help, much appreciated. I've been an electronics hobbyiest for years, but never soldered anything this large. During my radio days, sometimes a RG8 cable would have to have an end soldered on, but that was about all with the large stuff. |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 18 04:53AM -0800 60/40 solder should be banned as the invention of the devil that it is. In all honesty, I would used eutectic lead-free solder before I would use that garbage. Use Tin 63% / Lead 37% solder which melts and freezes at 183 °C. There is no plastic state. The 97/3 Eutectic lead-free solder melts and freezes at 218 °C. Also with no plastic state. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 17 11:53AM -0800 On Mon, 16 Nov 2020 22:14:30 +0000 (UTC), Eli the Bearded >particular device, however, my wife is unlikely to be pleased with >"AMAZINGLY ugly." That's also why I'm reluctant to add a connector to >this. I've used a wide variety of concoctions to repair strain reliefs and cords. My favorite was "Awesome Goo" which was both expensive and difficult to find. Sets instantly with a heat gun or in hot water. <https://www.amazon.com/Awesome-Goo-CECOMINOD023727/dp/B003EB51CY> More (or less): 1. Mixture of cyanoacrylate glue and baking soda. <https://www.google.com/search?q=super+glue+baking+soda> good for fixing crumbling rubber boots. 2. RTV, silicone caulk or putty, structural adhesive, etc. Basically anything that is flexible, fills gaps, and will harden. These work nicely but are not very strong. They bend and flex nicely, but under tension, will tear easily. I just used some black window caulk to repair an extension cord that had been chewed by a rat. 3. Bondo. This is normally used for filling dents on cars. The catch is that it's too hard and somewhat brittle. It will not provide a replacement for a strain relief, but does quite well for filling cracks that don't need to bend. 4. Shoe Goo. <http://eclecticproducts.com/products/shoe-goo.html> This is intended for fixing show soles. When set, the rubber is not quite as flexible as I would like, but at least it bends. 5. "Liquid electrical tape" under a variety labels: <https://www.google.com/search?q=liquid+tape&tbm=isch> It works but has problems. It doesn't stick to rubber very well or very long. Once exposed to air, it hardens very quickly in the can. If you screw the can lid on tight, you can't get it off. Basically, it's good for one job, and then throw away the can. 6. Plasti-Drip: <https://www.google.com/search?q=insulating+dip+for+tools&tbm=isch> This stuff works about the same as the liquid electrical tape, except that it dries with a smooth surface. However, it's useless for gap and crack filling because it doesn't seem to stick to anything. If you can wrap the cable with a thick donut shape blob of Plasti-Drip, it will stay in place. Otherwise, it will eventually stretch, break, and fall off. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| mjb@signal11.invalid (Mike): Nov 17 09:04PM In article <d4057b95-b86d-4540-93d0-6062a2832a44n@googlegroups.com>, >As for strain relief, you can get fusion tape (rubbery stretch-and-wrap stuff that >becomes a solid blob) Also known as "Self Amalgamating Tape". -- --------------------------------------+------------------------------------ Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk |
| Eli the Bearded <*@eli.users.panix.com>: Nov 17 10:14PM >> As for strain relief, you can get fusion tape (rubbery stretch-and-wrap >> stuff that becomes a solid blob) > Also known as "Self Amalgamating Tape". Everyone wants to talk about strain relief, no one has a simple fix for the connector-doesn't-fit problem. Elijah ------ not enthusiastic about identifying the exact barrel connector |
| Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Nov 18 07:10AM Eli the Bearded wrote: > Everyone wants to talk about strain relief, no one has a simple fix for > the connector-doesn't-fit problem. I thought it was a solved-problem decades ago? <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722J415P> |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 17 08:48AM -0800 On 2020/11/17 6:59 a.m., Peter W. wrote: > NOTE: Those salts are deliquescent - meaning that they attract water out of the air - so no surprise on the migration. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA White vinegar 50:50 with water is a good neutralizer for the alkaline salts. Foams up then washes off...got that tip back in the late 80s or early 90s from Duracell (or Eveready) mail in tech support. Have long since lost the letter... CLR also works, it too is a mild base. John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 17 10:23AM -0800 https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTeG0YLax0MNmhOyilNIPsfFehuRsNFeQfPCQ&usqp=CAU I keep one of these back from my college days, together with various inserts from "kiss a soap bubble" to "peel chrome from a trailer-hitch". They do an amazing job of cleaning everything from contacts to dirty plastic. The marl is non-conductive although the material removed may be. Peter Wieck Melrose Park,PA |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 17 11:25AM -0800 On Tue, 17 Nov 2020 09:10:11 -0500, "J.B. Wood" >Has anyone >had a similar problem? Thanks for your time and comment. Sincerely, Oh yes, many times. I have a fairly large number of alkaline battery powered devices. Around 1995, alkaline batteries were reformulated to remove lead from the "stabilizer" that kept the batteries from leaking. Since then, 5 to 10 years is about the average shelf life before they begin leaking. These died in the box after about 8 years: <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Kirkland-AAA-leak.jpg> Instead of alkaline, try substituting a lithium (not a lithium ion) cell. These are more expensive, have a much longer shelf life, and don't leak. The AA cells, this should work with 20 year life: <https://www.energizer.com/batteries/energizer-ultimate-lithium-batteries> For the D cell, just use a 1x AA to D cell adapter: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/353243622867> The down sides of using lithium is the cost and that they are not rechargeable. For a VOM/DVM, a few extra dollars over a 20 year operating life is negligible. Just do it. You can also substitute LiIon or NiMH cells, but these require some compromises. The LiIon cell is a nominal 3.6V with a maximum of 4V. Plug 4x 14500 LiIon cells into a device made for 4x 14500 alkaline cells and your RCA VOM will blow up. You can try running the VOM on 2x 14500 LiIon cells if the design will handle running on 8V instead of 6V. Or, you can install some series diodes in the VOM to drop the voltage to 6V. For the D cell, I wouldn't bother as the required 2.5v drop will be a major waste of power. You can also use NiMH cells, which are approximately the correct voltage. The problem here is the cheap cells have a high self discharge rate and will need to be recharged quite often. Fortunately, there are plenty of LSD (low self discharge) NiMH cells available, such as Eneloop. For the D cell, use the previously mentioned AA to D adapter. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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