- power supply question - 10 Updates
- Chinese dimmer just had thermal runaway and burned up - 3 Updates
- what gauge wire that has 1.25mm diameter PVC jacket - 3 Updates
| Erick <anytime@notnow.net>: Nov 19 03:50PM -0500 I ordered one of these last week and it arrived today: shorturl.at/alQX6 I ordered the 24V 15A. Has anyone here used one? Pluses/minuses? |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 19 03:12PM -0600 On 11/19/20 2:50 PM, Erick wrote: > I ordered one of these last week and it arrived today: > shorturl.at/alQX6 > I ordered the 24V 15A. Has anyone here used one? Pluses/minuses? Did you read the reviews? <https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B06XK2ZNKC/ref=acr_dp_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar> -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| Erick <anytime@notnow.net>: Nov 19 04:15PM -0500 On 11/19/20 4:12 PM, Fox's Mercantile wrote: >> I ordered the 24V 15A. Has anyone here used one? Pluses/minuses? > Did you read the reviews? > <https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B06XK2ZNKC/ref=acr_dp_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar> Yes, and mostly positive, but I like to go by more than common laymen reviews. |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 19 04:29PM -0500 In article <rp6lq4$amk$1@dont-email.me>, anytime@notnow.net says... > I ordered one of these last week and it arrived today: > shorturl.at/alQX6 > I ordered the 24V 15A. Has anyone here used one? Pluses/minuses? I have not used one of those, but it seems that several companies make similar supplies. There are 2 companies ,one Maxwell and one Meanwell that make them. I don't recall which is the better, but the one that costs the most is better. I have one that I am using in a ham repeater and it has been in operation for about a year with no problems. I do not recall the price, but it was less than $ 100. The only minus of the one I have is the 120 volt screws are out in the open and I had to make a cover for that. There is no off/on switch. |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 19 03:50PM -0600 On 11/19/20 3:29 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > The only minus of the one I have is the 120 volt screws are out in the > open and I had to make a cover for that. There is no off/on switch. Lambda "brick" supplies were like that. Still are, and they are 100% reliable. But as I've said before, "Pay shit, get shit." -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| Erick <anytime@notnow.net>: Nov 20 12:48AM -0500 On 11/19/20 4:29 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > but it was less than $ 100. > The only minus of the one I have is the 120 volt screws are out in the > open and I had to make a cover for that. There is no off/on switch. I decided to return it rather than take a chance on it. If it were going ot be outside or away from indoors, I might give it a try but the last thing I want is a toxic smoking end or worse. I must say I am a bit puzzled why these seem to have a bad rep. Aren't they switching supplies like used in desktop computers? Every desktop computer I ever had never had a power supply burn out. I've had about 7 over the last 3 decades and many have run 24 hours a day for nearly a year. If they can make them for PC's reliably, why not these devices? They are supposed to be designed for continuous duty too. |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 20 12:52AM -0600 On 11/19/20 11:48 PM, Erick wrote: > over the last 3 decades and many have run 24 hours a day for nearly a > year. If they can make them for PC's reliably, why not these devices? > They are supposed to be designed for continuous duty too. Simple, if you sell power supplies to Dell, and they burst into flames and kill a family. Dell will come after you and see to it that you and your entire family disappear. On the other hand, if you sell direct to the consumer and someone dies. Nobody but the immediate family gives a shit. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| Erick <anytime@notnow.net>: Nov 20 08:03AM -0500 On 11/20/20 1:52 AM, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > your entire family disappear. > On the other hand, if you sell direct to the consumer and someone dies. > Nobody but the immediate family gives a shit. Maybe, but in many cases, both units are being made by the Chinese. I have an old HP desktop power supply sitting here that I have used for several years outside of its original environment running 24/7 and it has done well. Made in China like the one I returned. I don't see a UL listing on it either. Ok, so maybe the cost is 2-3x more if I bought the PC power supply new. Well, I suppose that could be the answer. a 12V 24/7 PC supply at say $50 versus a 24V/15A supply for $17. |
| Erick <anytime@notnow.net>: Nov 20 08:06AM -0500 On 11/20/20 8:03 AM, Erick wrote: > listing on it either. Ok, so maybe the cost is 2-3x more if I bought > the PC power supply new. Well, I suppose that could be the answer. a > 12V 24/7 PC supply at say $50 versus a 24V/15A supply for $17. BTW, the seller refunded me even before sending it back which tells me they probably have a lot of defective units. In good conscience, it is ready for pickup for the return, however, so even technically "free" now, I still won't take a chance. |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 20 10:26AM -0500 In article <rp7lb2$o9o$1@dont-email.me>, anytime@notnow.net says... > over the last 3 decades and many have run 24 hours a day for nearly a > year. If they can make them for PC's reliably, why not these devices? > They are supposed to be designed for continuous duty too. I have had many computers over the last 40 or so years and worked for a company that had around 200 or more computers. The power supply seldom fail. However during one period in time motherboards were failing. This was due to bad capacitors on the MB. Quality electronics will have capacitors rated for higher working temperatures. They will uses heaver duty transistors and other components. The cheaper supplies will leave out some components that are not necessary , but surpress radio and tv interferance to near by radio and tv sets. You might think of it like bying hamburger meat. Some of it has a lot of fat in it , like 80 % lean. The more expensive 95% lean will cost more, but shrink less when cooked. Same with gas in your car. The more ethanol in it, the cheaper,but you get less gas milage. There are some good products comming out of China, and a bunch of junk. Remember a few years back where the drywall off gassed some chemicals that ate up the copper wiring and pipe in the homes. A brand name company needs to keep up their image. The small company produces a product under one name this year and 6 months later they use anoter name. They do not care about quality control. |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 19 09:51AM -0800 Coming in late on this. 30A @ 24V = 720 watts. Unless the dimmer weighs as much as a standard brick, it is not going to pass that much current for more than a very few microseconds. So much for the "Rating". Now, 8.5A at 12V = 102 watts. So, using an average of 15ma/led, that is something like 560 typical LEDs. Allow 450 for standard losses. So, any number substantially fewer than 450 LEDs in the string will represent current going up in heat. Think of it as 0.23 watts per LED. So, if there are only 200 LEDs in the string, over 50 watts is going up in heat - somewhere - as you experienced. These are very rough 'back of the envelope' calculations, involving a S.W.A.G. or three. But, when considering such devices for such uses, common-sense basic calculations can avoid very unfortunate down-line results. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 19 08:31PM -0800 Peter Wanker the PITA TROLL. wrote: ========================== > Coming in late on this. ** FFS Stay away, you imbecile. > 30A @ 24V = 720 watts. Unless the dimmer weighs as much as a standard brick, it is not going to pass that much current for more than a very few microseconds. So much for the "Rating". ** Fucking hell, wot crap. |
| Erick <anytime@notnow.net>: Nov 20 08:14AM -0500 On 11/16/20 8:23 PM, Chuck wrote: > Japanese equivalent. I also see 30V, 20 A switching supplies with > variable voltage all over the place too, but darned if I'm ever going to > buy one. I've been using one for two years to brighten and dim about 10 amps worth of LED lights. It burned out, most likely from a power outage where the electricity kept going on and off rapidly for a few seconds last year. I always worry when that happens because it can ruin anything connected and running at the time. Anyway, just after that the lights didn't come on that night. When I checked the fuses, both were blown. I had two fuses ahead of the dimmer, one in each line. Replaced those and still nothing from that dimmer. So I think it was that power surge that did the damage. Second one has been going strong for 18 months now. |
| Erick <anytime@notnow.net>: Nov 19 12:03PM -0500 Appears to be two lead, multi-stranded hook up wire with 1.25mm diameter PVC jacket. Short of stripping and measuring the wire itself, is there any way to tell what gauge it is with the information provided? Thank you. |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 19 09:33AM -0800 On Thursday, November 19, 2020 at 12:03:14 PM UTC-5, Erick wrote: > PVC jacket. Short of stripping and measuring the wire itself, is there > any way to tell what gauge it is with the information provided? Thank > you. 1.25mm is 0.049 inches. That includes the insulation? And presumably, that is only one (1) lead? Nothing is written on the wire itself? At a S.W.A.G., allowing the PVC to be somewhere at /around 0.30 mm of the total diameter +/-, that would put you at 20 gauge AWG, or so (0.9mm). Given that the most common wire gauges found in the USA are even numbers, the options are 22, 20, & 18. 18-gauge is too thick unless the PVC is very thin. If thick, then 22 gauge is most likely. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Nov 19 03:13PM -0500 >PVC jacket. Short of stripping and measuring the wire itself, is there >any way to tell what gauge it is with the information provided? Thank >you. You could get a rough idea of the diameter and stranding by measuring the dimensions visible across the cut end. ..but the answer is no. Anything but an electrical/physical measurement or labelled specification is guessing. RL |
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