| Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 30 06:34PM -0500 I am in the process of modifying a circuit by adding a small external circuit board and then wiring into the main board. I don't want the wires to move around when I'm done, but yet if I ever need to make repairs, I want to be able to remove them. I see some people using hot glue for such matters, but I don't think I'd be able to desolder the wires later without using a lot of force to remove the hot glue first. What could I use? |
| RD <randy.day@sasktel.netx>: Nov 30 06:00PM -0600 In article <rq3vhi$39f$1@dont-email.me>, chuck445@yahoonospam.com says... > circuit board and then wiring into the main board. I don't want the > wires to move around when I'm done, but yet if I ever need to make > repairs, I want to be able to remove them. I see some people using hot [snip] Silicone. Lots of different brands & formulations (RTV, Goop, etc.) Dab a small bit on an unused corner of the board and let it dry, to see if it can be peeled off cleanly. HTH |
| "tschw...@aol.com" <tschw10117@aol.com>: Nov 30 04:30PM -0800 On Monday, November 30, 2020 at 6:00:11 PM UTC-6, RD wrote: > and let it dry, to see if it can be peeled off > cleanly. > HTH Not great advice, as most silicones cure with acetic acid, which corrodes circuit boards. If you must use silicone, use one that is specifically safe for electronics. There are only a few. |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 30 04:53PM -0800 tschw...@aol.com wrote: ======================= > Not great advice, as most silicones cure with acetic acid, which corrodes circuit boards. > If you must use silicone, use one that is specifically safe for electronics. There are only a few. ** Just get one labelled " Neutral Cure " These are safe to use with metals like copper and tin. ..... Phil |
| Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Nov 30 09:02PM -0500 On 11/30/20 6:34 PM, Chuck wrote: > glue for such matters, but I don't think I'd be able to desolder the > wires later without using a lot of force to remove the hot glue first. > What could I use? Cyanoacrylate with accelerator. It sets fast, cracks off really easily and can be cleaned up with acetone. Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com |
| Arie de Muynck <no.spam@no.spam.org>: Dec 01 10:24AM +0100 On 2020-12-01 00:34, Chuck wrote: > glue for such matters, but I don't think I'd be able to desolder the > wires later without using a lot of force to remove the hot glue first. > What could I use? Hot glue will soften when heated with a (controlled) heat gun, before the electronics get damaged. Wires can easily be removed then. Just experiment a bit on some old PCB. Arie |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 01 04:48AM -0800 From the literature: 3M 3748 Hot Melt Overview The 3M 3748 is a unique hot melt adhesive often used in electronic assembly because it provides excellent thermal shock resistance and is non-corrosive to copper. The 3M 3748 also provides an excellent bond to polyolefins. The 3M 3748 also comes in a self-extinguishing version that meets UL 1410 requirements, 3M 3748VO. Good stuff. And if you want to crack it off, a few minutes in the freezer makes it very easy to handle. https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1245163O/3m-hot-melt-adhesive-3764-3748-technical-data-sheet.pdf Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Dec 01 07:27AM -0600 On 12/1/2020 3:24 AM, Arie de Muynck wrote: > the electronics get damaged. Wires can easily be removed then. > Just experiment a bit on some old PCB. > Arie And, use only enough to hold the wire, not so much that it is hard to remove. Mikek -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
| RD <randy.day@sasktel.netx>: Dec 01 07:51AM -0600 In article <7ef89ce5-fea8-4979-9d09-7fa15bff67d2n@googlegroups.com>, tschw10117@aol.com says... [snip] > > HTH > Not great advice, as most silicones cure with acetic acid, which corrodes circuit boards. > If you must use silicone, use one that is specifically safe for electronics. There are only a few. If you're gluing to a bare board and bare traces that may be true, but it's rare to find a board that isn't conformal coated nowadays. |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 01 06:37AM -0800 > traces that may be true, but it's rare to > find a board that isn't conformal coated > nowadays. Conventional RTV silicones outgas acetic acid for some period up to days - long after it is 'cured' for practical purposes. And that acetic acid will attack exposed metals of many types, including 304 and 316 stainless steel. And, worse, if that silicon is in a confined area such as an enclosed chassis, the damage could be inches away from the source. Peter WIeck Melrose Park, PA |
| Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Dec 01 02:58PM On 30/11/2020 23:34, Chuck wrote: > glue for such matters, but I don't think I'd be able to desolder the > wires later without using a lot of force to remove the hot glue first. > What could I use? Candle wax? -- Adrian C |
| Arie de Muynck <no.spam@no.spam.org>: Dec 01 05:20PM +0100 On 2020-12-01 15:58, Adrian Caspersz wrote: >> the wires later without using a lot of force to remove the hot glue >> first. What could I use? > Candle wax? NO! Long ago (50+ years) I used that to stabilize selfwound RF inductors. The copper rotted away within a year. It may depend on the wax type, bees wax is supposed to be less agressive. Arie |
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