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Transition Zone <mogulah@hotmail.com>: Dec 07 07:55AM -0800 On Wednesday, September 30, 2020 at 1:24:57 PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote: > https://support.vizio.com/s/article/My-device-won-t-power-on-will-not-turn-on-no-power?language=en_US   > Which tells you: "Newer VIZIO TV's that have a white LED power indicator light are designed so that the indicator light fades out when the TV powers on. If the light doesn't fade off and just turns off then there is a problem with your TV." So, the fading power-light is normal behavior.   > Understand that this venue is dedicated to the concept that one should search out the most complicated, ineffective and least useful response to any given issue - as long as it is clear and, simple (and usually wrong). Which depends on the premise that many here have either broken fingers and cannot use a search engine for that reason, or are unable to read or understand directions, or are otherwise challenged to look for themselves. And then, to take that response and discuss it until the proverbial horse is dead, flensed, flayed, jerked and dried. Look at it from the ex-construction worker (electrical contractor) now sitting behind a counter on a street filled with high rises where every 15 minutes some guy walks in emptying a bag of 13 or 14 electrical parts saying "this was my playstation or Wii" can you put it back together because it has stuff saved on it.   YKou can't take a picture of it or play a recording of it. How will you ask for help?

Jezebels_couz <jbc3@three.net>: Dec 06 01:49PM -0500 Anyone here use it and what is its durability? How about melting temperature in warmer environments? Thanks.

Paul Drahn <pdrahn@jodeco.com>: Dec 06 10:57AM -0800 On 12/6/2020 10:49 AM, Jezebels_couz wrote: > Anyone here use it and what is its durability?  How about melting > temperature in warmer environments?  Thanks. I have used it on connections between coax and antennas. Never had a problem. Regular PVC black electrical tape either splits or looses it's sticky after two years due to the UV here in the Central Oregon desert.   Liquid tape in bottles turns solid after about two years.   Paul

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 06 11:04AM -0800 On Sun, 6 Dec 2020 13:49:08 -0500, Jezebels_couz <jbc3@three.net> wrote:   >Anyone here use it and what is its durability? How about melting >temperature in warmer environments? Thanks.   I bought a can of this stuff at the local hardware store: <https://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B0000AXNOD> My first use was to patch cracks and cuts in several expensive rubber cables. It went on fairly easily but hardened a bit lumpy. It lasted about a month before pieces started falling off. There might have been some contamination (grease, hand oils, solvents) involved, but it was too late to check. I later used it for rubber microphone coil cords, which also crumbled after a few weeks of movement. This time, I gave the cable an acetone wipe, which should have removed any grease.   However, the lack of durability was not the major problem. It was the can. No matter how hard I tried, I could not keep the rubber compound from getting into the threads on the lid. Once the stuff hardened, it was impossible to remove the lid. I tried various straps, clamps, pliers, pipe wrenches, and solvents. Nothing would get the lid loose. After losing the contents of 2 cans in this manner, I gave up and decided to find something else.   No clue on melting temperature.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Dec 07 06:51AM -0600 On 12/6/2020 12:49 PM, Jezebels_couz wrote: > Anyone here use it and what is its durability?  How about melting > temperature in warmer environments?  Thanks.    I used liquid Tape to repair a large nick in the insulation of a heavy duty extension cord over 25 years ago.    The cord is still great (but very heavy) the repair is fine and I never thought about it melting, but I'm in Florida and I never noticed it soften.   Wish I could till you the brand and if they still make it the same way.                                         Mikek     -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Dec 07 01:48PM On Sun, 6 Dec 2020 13:49:08 -0500, Jezebels_couz <jbc3@three.net> wrote:   >Anyone here use it and what is its durability? How about melting >temperature in warmer environments? Thanks.   I used some liquid electric tape about five year ago. It was to insulate a joint in a cable supplying the pump in a waterfall. It is a few inches under a lawn. It gets frozen in winter and baked in summer. I think it is Loctite brand.   Steve   -- http://www.npsnn.com

Rob <nomail@example.com>: Dec 07 03:02PM > Anyone here use it and what is its durability? How about melting > temperature in warmer environments? Thanks.   Unless you have some special requirement I would advice self-amalgamating tape instead.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 06 10:51AM -0800 My brother has a very vintage pair of Acoustat speakers driven from what he describes to me as an Acoustech IV pre-amp, distinguished by having phono-jack outputs directly to the speakers. Which have large, heavy, powered boxes attached. After many years of sitting unused, they went silent on him. I suspect the pre-amp, but at-a-distance, I cannot be sure. No, I do not have the model number of the speakers, but they are self-powered, very nearly 2 meters tall, just over 6 feet, There are three fuses on the back, a removable power-cord, an on-off switch, the 1/4" phono jack input and a 5-position treble boost/cut knob. Which should narrow it down.   Question: is that specialized pre-amp required, or would any normal audio pre-amp do?   Thanks in advance!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Dec 06 04:55PM -0500 On Sun, 6 Dec 2020 10:51:11 -0800 (PST), "Peter W."   >Thanks in advance!   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   The preamp isn't special. You'll need one that can do a reasonable output amplitude, even though the speaker input impedance is high, as the accustats need good drive levels.   Having both speakers go silent at the same time does suggest the preamp.   RL

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 07 04:26AM -0800 Thank you! I have in mind the Dynaco PAT-5biFET as it puts out ~15 volts, and is more-or-less contemporary with the speakers.   Thanks again!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Transition Zone <mogulah@hotmail.com>: Dec 06 02:35PM -0800 On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 4:15:06 AM UTC-4, Chris K-Man wrote: > forever bound by their use of English. Compared to them, what is spoken > in the States is called AMERICAN: a rebellious corruption and bastardisation > of what is spoken/written in the two aforementioned nations.   The UK spoke like Americans and Canadians until some time prior to the 1900s. Where else would they get the accent from? Pluto?   > Where else do you hear "nucular" routinely substitute for nuclear? Or > plural's of item's succeeded with an apostrphe s? LOL!   Canada and Mexico. This is North America we're talking. Forget?

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Dec 06 07:53PM In article <7bd6a88f-43ff-4236-a3f5-317137349831n@googlegroups.com>, ohger1s@gmail.com says... > > d) Suggesting that the transformers they make/made are not unique to each individual component. > > e) Suggesting that it is quite likely that they may have that transformer available.   > It's not. I emailed McIntosh asking about a replacement, or a suggested "universal" replacement that might physically fit the tight chassis that could be installed with some circuit modification, or perhaps a suggestion of a rewinder they were familiar with or might even have used. I received a very quick and terse (if not polite) email from McIntosh Friday that answered all three of my questions with a simple "I?m sorry there are no options for this transformer." Boom.   > The MX110Z is very very tight. There's literally no room for a transformer that would allow the case to fit if the replacement was any bigger even by a small percentage. This particular piece is known to have a power transformer that runs *very* hot even when everything is otherwise normal. The transformer has a B+ winding and three filament windings and is also supposed to be more heavily shielded than the average bear.   > I could probably find a way of cobbling a different power transformer and another smaller filament transformer somewhere else on the chassis (or just build a remote XFR box with an umbilical) but I don't want to reinvent the wheel at this point, plus I feel most of the *value* of this piece is in the originality of it, not to mention Mc's careful design of the filament circuit and wire routing for hum mitigation. Add to that the fact that two of the four selenium rectifiers under the deck relieved themselves of tiny solder balls (which happens when the 1A slow blow is replaced with a 20A fuse), and all cans are original and probably need to be restuffed, and it just seems like a project not worth the time at this point.   > I returned the tuner/pre to the owner yesterday with the suggestion of either putting it on ebay, where this model in non working condition will bring $400 at least, or keep checking ebay and finding one in poor cosmetic condition with a good XFR in it.   Sounds like a mistake I made ca. 1960 when I built a valve oscilloscope (which I still have; sentimentality!). I built it around the mains transformer whichwas between two bulkheads and gave the whole thing rigidity. So when it failed rewinding it was the only solution. And building a coil-winder out of Meccano was my solution to that...

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 06 10:33AM -0800 On Fri, 4 Dec 2020 12:07:14 -0500, Ralph Mowery >Usually in the 30 to 40 watt range was recommended for solid state. >They took a while to heat up. Found out they were just putting out one >heat and depending on the air to limit the temperature.   The fun part was different size tips would produce different tip temperatures. Tiny sharp tips would get so hot that the tip would burn out. Large chunky tips would barely get hot enough to melt solder. Soldering outdoors, in the wind, was somewhere between difficult and impossible. "Tinning" the tip was a ritual not so much to improve the solder joint, as it was to make sure that the iron was hot enough to melt solder.   >work I thought that was way too much. However they were temperature >controlled and would cut the power up and down to maintain the >temperature to a much more constant heat.   Same here with one difference. The temperature controlled irons were simply too expensive for me to afford in the 1960's. Fortunately, I went to skool near Douglas Aircraft in Santa Monica, CA, which had an excellent surplus outlet. I bought a large box of Weller soldering stations featuring thermostatically controlled TC201 soldering irons. Included was about 200 assorted Weller tips, all burned out. In all cases, the nickel plating had worn off, exposing the underlying iron plating which was generally intact. I setup an electroplating system and was able to re-plate most of the tips. The tips were quite usable but didn't last as long as new tips because I didn't use enough nickel plating. Something like this:   Resurfacing Hakko Tip (Electroplating) <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8hk1Be5W1g> (11:02)   >temperature controled, but the tip is about 3/8 inches in diameter and >the flat part is about 1/4 inch thick. It does not cool much on the >larger wire. Lots of thermal mass.   My weapon of choice for soldering big stuff (battery lugs, high current electrical connections, tinning #8 AWG or larger, shields, antenna wires, etc) is a propane oven and a big block of copper on a frying pan handle. <https://stellartechnical.com/products/1-5-soldering-copper>   For big tip cleaning, I use a block of sal ammoniac (ammonium chloride): <https://www.amazon.com/Large-Sal-Ammoniac-Tinning-Block/dp/B0051KK252> My block was originally about the size of a brick, but has shrunk considerably after years of use.   Sal Ammoniac How To <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zwtAK46xOs> (7:34)   >Things have changed a lot for soldering. It used to be get in quick and >use heat sinks on the leads. Now the SMD uses hot air wands and you >play the air over the parts for a while tuil the solder melts.   Before I bought a hot air SMD workstation, I was using two soldering irons as if they were tweezers. After having a few too many parts fly away, never to be seen again, I switched to the hot air system. However, the parts are so small now that if I blow too much hot air, they will again fly away, never to be seen again. So, I'm looking into an infrared soldering station (also known as an automotive cigarette lighter on a stick):   Infrared soldering iron with your own hands. 3 WAYS to make an IR soldering iron yourself. <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NWH7ZoVTsA> (10:04)   Ummm... I guess I should mention that none of the soldering systems I mentioned here will work with XT60 connectors.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 06 09:37AM -0800 On Sat, 5 Dec 2020 15:24:32 -0500, Ralph Mowery >low capacitance/high impedance . Most common coax for radios and TVs >are usually either close to 50 or 70 ohms and have about 2 to 3 times >the capacitance per foot as the car coax.   Coax cable for AM car radios is AMC-62 modified for 125 ohms: <https://www.commscope.com/product-type/cables/coaxial-cables/automotive-cables/item469776350/> <http://objects.eanixter.com/PD357800.PDF> <http://www.tian-jie.com/CABLES_Automobile-Antenna-Cable-Series_255_266_list.htm> The input to the AM receiver looks like a big inductor with an adjustable tuning capacitor in series. To the antenna, the tuning capacitor and coax capacitance to ground (9.5 pf/ft) form a voltage divider. The higher the coax capacitance, the less voltage will across the big inductor. Therefore, short coax cables and low capacitance coax cable are required. If one substituted common RG-58a/u coax cable (50 ohms), the capacitance would be 30 pf/ft resulting in a lower capacitor divider ratio (approx 1/3) or a -9.5 dB voltage loss.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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