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Witherspoon <ws194@aol.com>: Dec 08 09:55PM -0500 test

Test Failure <test.failed@invalid.example.invalid>: Dec 09 04:06PM > test   Your test was a failure. sci.electronics.repair is not a test newsgroup.   Test articles are to be posted in newsgroups ending in *.test.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 09 10:39AM -0600 On 12/9/20 10:06 AM, Test Failure wrote:   > Your test was a failure. sci.electronics.repair is not a test > newsgroup.   > Test articles are to be posted in newsgroups ending in *.test.   So was your reply. 3-1/2 weeks to notice?     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Witherspoon <ws194@aol.com>: Dec 08 09:58PM -0500 I just ran a bunch of wiring using the XT30 and sometimes XT60 connectors for my firm. There are two areas, however, where connecting/ disconnecting needs to be made without turning off power. My manager says the XT connectors aren't made to handle this so what could I use in those areas instead? Thank you.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Dec 09 09:10AM -0500 >disconnecting needs to be made without turning off power. My manager >says the XT connectors aren't made to handle this so what could I use in >those areas instead? Thank you.   What's the voltage and current?   RL

Witherspoon <ws194@aol.com>: Dec 09 09:32AM -0500 On 12/9/20 9:10 AM, legg wrote: >> those areas instead? Thank you.   > What's the voltage and current?   > RL   Depends on the line, but generally 8-12 VDC @ up to 12 A.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Dec 09 10:32AM -0500 >> What's the voltage and current?   >> RL   >Depends on the line, but generally 8-12 VDC @ up to 12 A.     Anderson PP15   ASMPR45-1X2-RK polarized pairs.   Digikey or others.   RL

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 09 10:31AM -0500 I have been using the Anderson Power Poles and this thread is the first I have seen of the XT type connectors.   From looking at them on Youtube it looks to me that the wire end is just open and if you want that to be insulated you have to use heat srink tubing or some other method.   Is that correct ?

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Dec 04 02:46PM -0800 In article <MPG.3a3434126dcf9e0a98a0c4@news.east.earthlink.net>, >nothing. Checking them out on a service monitor, they are sensitive >enough. However when the ham gear is used with a antenna only a few >feet long tuned to frequency in a car they pick up lots of signals.   I suspect that your guess about impedance matching is probably "on the mark". Since the ham transceiver is normally hooked up to a 50-ohm (or so) trqansmission line, it's probably designed to terminate the incoming signal into 50 ohms or thereabouts when it's in receive mode.   If you hook a short wire to it, the short wire is going to have a very high (and very capacitive) impedance. The 50-ohm termination will look very much like a short-to-ground compared to that high impedance, and there will only be a trace of signal left for the receiver to detect.   A short-wave receiver is designed to work with a short antenna (wire or whip). The antenna is a lot shorter than a wavelength, and so there's no real need to terminate it into a matched impedance. The short-wave receiver can use a high-impedance receiving circuit (e.g. a JFET) and doesn't lose signal into an inappropriately-low termination impedance.   Some ham transceivers have a separate "receive antenna" jack - the Kenwood TS-2000 has one. These may be high-impedance inputs suitable for a wire or whip, or they might be 50-ohm antennas.   If you were to provide a small battery-powered buffer for your random wire (say, a J310 JFET set up as a source follower) you could reduce the effects of the mismatch and you'd probably find your transceiver able to receive quite nicely.

Brian Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@email.invalid>: Dec 05 12:31AM On 04/12/2020 21:22, Clifford Heath wrote: > Your portable probably has a ferrite loopstick in  it also.   Probably not for shortwave though.   -- Brian Gregory (in England).

OJ Oxford <bestnet@none.com>: Dec 04 08:36AM -0500 My former post was on the unwanted heating up of a cigarette lighter and it was determined that there was too much resistance in such a connector, so switched out to the XT60 based mainly on Jeff Liebermann's recommendation. I initially had great difficulties with my various soldering irons on hand heating up both the connector and the 12 ga copper wires enough to get an acceptable connection, so proceeded to order a brand new 60 watt temp controlled iron and some flux. Well, I'm happy to report that all is well. I have been pleasantly surprised by how well the combination of the iron and flux are working and all connections, while still delayed a bit, are being satisfactorily made and I no longer have lack of connection, melting, or cold solder concerns. Oh, and I have been working with silver solder too as the standard had not yet arrived.   Apparently, my other irons on hand either didn't have the correct tips, were too old to heat up correctly and/or lacking the additional flux all worked to disadvantage. I must say that this 60 watt iron heats up faster than any of my other irons. It is a pencil type and ready to go in about 15 seconds, where my other pencil units always took several min.   Thanks again to the group for setting me straight.

Paul Drahn <pdrahn@jodeco.com>: Dec 06 10:57AM -0800 On 12/6/2020 10:49 AM, Jezebels_couz wrote: > Anyone here use it and what is its durability?  How about melting > temperature in warmer environments?  Thanks. I have used it on connections between coax and antennas. Never had a problem. Regular PVC black electrical tape either splits or looses it's sticky after two years due to the UV here in the Central Oregon desert.   Liquid tape in bottles turns solid after about two years.   Paul

Jezebels_couz <jbc3@three.net>: Dec 06 01:49PM -0500 Anyone here use it and what is its durability? How about melting temperature in warmer environments? Thanks.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Dec 06 04:55PM -0500 On Sun, 6 Dec 2020 10:51:11 -0800 (PST), "Peter W."   >Thanks in advance!   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   The preamp isn't special. You'll need one that can do a reasonable output amplitude, even though the speaker input impedance is high, as the accustats need good drive levels.   Having both speakers go silent at the same time does suggest the preamp.   RL

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Dec 08 07:24PM > On Monday, December 7, 2020 at 9:03:09 PM UTC-5, hildawi...@gmail.com wrote: >> Hi Group, need help choosing a main board for an RCA TV model .. led32c45rq.. main board # fre01m3393lna35-a2.. i want to know if this board ..42RE01M3393LNA35-A2 Main Board for LED42C45RQ will work in replace of the one mentioned ???   > The only way is to try it. There are two potential problems of high probability: the keyboard switches may not work as assigned, and you may have no picture, a badly pixelated picture, or an upside down picture because these boards don't drive the same screen. If the board is close enough, swapping the eeprom from the original board will usually fix the picture issues and likely the keyboard issues, but that's assuming the original eeprom is good. Since the eeprom is the most likely cause of any non-lightning failures of these boards, you may be moving a bad eeprom into a good board.   Programmed eeproms also seem available on eBay, bit of a markup though.   It's not difficult to make a programmer, running out of a parallel port of an old PC. Or using an SBC such as a Raspberry-Pi.   -- Adrian C

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Dec 08 12:05PM -0800 On Tuesday, December 8, 2020 at 2:24:15 PM UTC-5, Adrian Caspersz wrote: > of an old PC. Or using an SBC such as a Raspberry-Pi.   > -- > Adrian C   I offered to email him the .bin file but the OP doesn't have a programmer. Besides, the time to have a cheap programmer for TVs is ending. Most TVs made in the last couple of years are "smart" and they use memory on BGA chips, not easily replaceable 25 series eeproms.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 08 02:54PM -0600 On 12/8/20 1:24 PM, Adrian Caspersz wrote: > It's not difficult to make a programmer, running out of a parallel port > of an old PC. Or using an SBC such as a Raspberry-Pi.   Or, you could just buy the right tools to do it correctly. <https://www.ebay.com/itm/133033993647> For $60.23     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Dec 08 01:17PM -0800 On Tuesday, December 8, 2020 at 3:54:57 PM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > Or, you could just buy the right tools to do it correctly. > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/133033993647> > For $60.23   That's the one I've been using recently. Works well.

HW <none@no.no>: Dec 08 06:06PM +0100 On Mon, 30 Nov 2020 18:34:09 -0500, Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com> wrote:   >I see some people using hot >glue for such matters, but I don't think I'd be able to desolder the >wires later without using a lot of force to remove the hot glue first.   Hot glue will release nicely with a drop of isopropyl alcohol.

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