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"tschw...@aol.com" <tschw10117@aol.com>: Feb 02 04:14PM -0800 On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 9:31:12 AM UTC-6, David Barnicoat wrote: > This unit appears dead, main fuse T4A has not ruptured but unit will not > power up, Any advice on what to check on the saps gratefully appreciated > ,thanks Does it use a wall-wart transformer/power supply?   I'd start with that.

David Barnicoat <dave.barnicoat@btinternet.com>: Feb 03 03:14PM >> ,thanks > Does it use a wall-wart transformer/power supply?   > I'd start with that.   No it does not use a wall wart, internal power supply with soldered in fuse which is not open circuit.

Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Feb 02 09:20PM -0800 On Sunday, December 6, 2020 at 1:49:13 PM UTC-5, Jezebels_couz wrote: > Anyone here use it and what is its durability? How about melting > temperature in warmer environments? Thanks. I tried it once. Was not impressed, seemed to crack off after a while. What I have used that I really like is rubber electrical tape. Ethylene propylene and silicone rubber electrical tapes have the highest dielectric rating of electrical tapes, as much at 70KV. I use 3M 2228. I learned about this stuff during my first engineering job in a blast furnace construction site. the controls I designed interfaced to some beefy motors. One of the electricians that followed me around was tasked to replace one of the motors because it was not what I specified. As I watched him wire the new motor, he used that rubber electrical tape. Neat stuff-the overlapping wraps fuse together to make a rubber jacket. Long lasting in hot and cold environments. Follow up with a few wraps of good electrical tape - I like 3M 88 or for everyday use, super 33. Good luck J

Abandoned_Trolley <fred@fred-smith.uk>: Feb 02 07:06PM On 01/02/2021 12:32, Peter W. wrote:   > Fuel-pump relay failures are seldom (not never) thermal. Once they latch, they tend to be fine.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   OK   This is just an observation, from a man who has never owned a Honda car   In the normal course of events, if a car starts from OK from cold, and then doesnt want to start when its hot then it might be caused by the mixture being too rich - like as if the choke is stuck on (for those of us old enough to remember what a choke is)   I have experienced this problem a few times on various petrol engines, and its usually something to do with a thermostat somewhere - so maybe something in the system thinks that the engine is still cold ?   My instinct tells me that if its got enough fuel to start and run when its cold (and needs more fuel) then its not likely to be a problem with the fuel filter.   Probably of no relevance whatever in this case, but just may be worth thinking about ...   AT

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 02 12:47PM -0800 > My instinct tells me that if its got enough fuel to start and run when > its cold (and needs more fuel) then its not likely to be a problem with > the fuel filter.   Patient: 1999 VW Eurovan Camper - VR6 engine. 72,000 miles. Symptom: Started fine. Ran fine for about 20 minutes or the first hill. After which it would get progressively weaker, then stall. Spark at start: Good. Fuel Pressure at start: Good. Spark hot: Good Fuel Pressure hot: Poor. Cause: Clogged fuel filter - OEM to the vehicle, I replaced it in 2012. Specs call for every 50,000 miles. Action: Replaced the fuel filter. Problem solved.   Apparently, the within fuel filter when cold (not under pressure) contaminants will separate from the element and settle at the bottom of the can. Apparently, this allows enough fuel flow to get the engine started, even running for a while until the element reclogs and restricts flow.   Hence the suggestion.   Peter WIeck Melrose Park, PA

Abandoned_Trolley <fred@fred-smith.uk>: Feb 02 08:56PM On 02/02/2021 20:47, Peter W. wrote:   > Hence the suggestion.   > Peter WIeck > Melrose Park, PA   as I said   Probably of no relevance whatever in this case, but just may be worth thinking about ...   AT

Abandoned_Trolley <fred@fred-smith.uk>: Feb 02 06:41PM I have one of these things sitting around in my workshop but so far I have been unable to make any sense of it, so rather than chuck it in the skip I am offering it free to anybody who might want to pay the postage.   It's the Micromaster LV model (NOT the later LV48)   As far as I can make out its complete apart from a few missing fixing screws. I have the (UK) AC adaptor which has some weird connector on the end.   There's various bits of DOS / Old Windows software knocking around on the internet and I would imagine it might be of some use to anybody who already has one (or anybody who knows more about them that I do)   I am based in Essex so it's probably only of interest to readers in the UK   Get in touch on here if you want any further details   AT

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