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"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 28 04:16AM -0700 https://www.unicornelex.com/Non_Polarized_Chassis_Mount_AC_Power_Receptacle_p/36-3800.htm   Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, and children of all ages:   For those of us who have the awful habit of restoring vintage equipment with non-polarized convenience receptacles and who often have a hard time finding replacements - These fit Dynaco and similar products.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Mar 28 01:13AM -0400 I'd appreciate it any replies went to all three groups that this is posted to so I don't have to read all three to see all the replies. When I started in Usenet, that was considered the proper way.     How much electricity do these things use when not in use?   1) Laptop power supplies, when the laptop is not on? Is it different when the laptop is disconnected?   2) Automobile Quick Charge 3.0 ports? My car is old so I have to add one, like this one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088HJPK7C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3IBRCMNGJUPVG&psc=1 Some come with a switch in them and some don't. I picked this one 'cause it has a 1.1" hole saw, not for the switch. I suppose some new cars come with QC 3.0 installed?   3) Radios, that have an on/off switch but the switch is not in the 110v. line. It's somewhere in the transistor circuitry, after the radio's power supply? Why don't they put the switch on the 110 volts?   4) Same question about TV's but since they are bigger, do they waste even more? If they have to use a relay, they could use a relay. (Yes, I agree that the remote control receiver has to be on all the time, but I don't consider that a waste. It could be the only part that is on.)   5) What have I left out? Especially something that is different in nature from the previous 4.     WRT 1, I've noticed that the black box that's part of the charging cable is not hot, not even warm afaict, when I'm not charging anything. Does that imply I'm not using much current? That I'm using no current?   WRT 2, cars, doesn't the alternator put out loads of extra electricity anyhow except that there is a regulator to stop that. If the charger I'm asking about or the lights or any accesorry (even maybe the heater fan) is using electricity, does it make the engine work harder? Is the amount significant? How many gallons an hour do all the accesories together use? Is the amount the engine would have to work to power a charger that's not charging anything even measurable with other than a galvanometer**? ** wikip doesn't say this but I was led to believe a galvanometer is an ammeter for very small currents. Was that true? Is it still? Anyhow, that's what I mean in the previous paragraph.

"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Mar 28 05:31PM +1100 micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote   > When I started in Usenet, that was considered the proper way.     > How much electricity do these things use when not in use?   > 1) Laptop power supplies, when the laptop is not on?   What the battery needs charging wise.   > Is it different when the laptop is disconnected?   Yes, very little power is taken with a modern very small switching power supply/charger.   > 2) Automobile Quick Charge 3.0 ports? > My car is old so I have to add one, like this one, > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088HJPK7C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3IBRCMNGJUPVG&psc=1   Same as the laptop.     > 3) Radios, that have an on/off switch but the switch is > not in the 110v. line. It's somewhere in the transistor > circuitry, after the radio's power supply?   It doesn't actually switch anything, it tells the radio to turn off.   How much power it takes when off varys with the design.   > Why don't they put the switch on the 110 volts?   Because the other switch is cheaper.   > 4) Same question about TV's but since > they are bigger, do they waste even more?   Yep, the worst designs can be quite bad.   > If they have to use a relay, they could use a relay. (Yes, I agree > that the remote control receiver has to be on all the time, but > I don't consider that a waste. It could be the only part that is on.)   Yes with the best designs. But some of the smart ones allow the firmware to be remotely updated so that still needs to be active to know when to do that.   > 5) What have I left out?   Everything appliance wise except the most primitive now.   > Especially something that is different in nature from the previous 4.   You can get power meters very cheaply.   > WRT 1, I've noticed that the black box that's part of the charging > cable is not hot, not even warm afaict, when I'm not charging > anything. Does that imply I'm not using much current?   Yes.   > That I'm using no current?   Nope, its never literally zero.   > WRT 2, cars, doesn't the alternator put out loads of extra > electricity anyhow except that there is a regulator to stop that.   There always is a regulator.   > If the charger I'm asking about or the lights or any > accesorry (even maybe the heater fan) is using > electricity, does it make the engine work harder?   Yep. But it isnt a fan heater in car.   > Is the amount significant?   Nope.   > How many gallons an hour do all the accesories together use?   Bugger all.   > Is the amount the engine would have to work to power > a charger that's not charging anything even measurable > with other than a galvanometer**?   It is measurable with a power meter.   > ** wikip doesn't say this but I was led to believe a galvanometer > is an ammeter for very small currents. Was that true?   Yes.   > Is it still?   Nope, we do it electronically now.

Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Mar 28 10:56AM +0200 On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 17:31:12 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:   <FLUSH more of the trolling senile asshole's always predictable trollshit>   -- dennis@home to know-it-all Rodent Speed: "You really should stop commenting on things you know nothing about." Message-ID: <pCVTC.283711$%L2.214599@fx40.am4>

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 28 02:05AM -0700 Peeler wrote: ============= > On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 17:31:12 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent > Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:   ** OH - so you know Rod fairly well then ...   > <FLUSH more of the trolling senile asshole's always predictable trollshit>   ** Must use that one, myself.     ..... Phil

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 28 10:37AM +0100 On 28/03/2021 06:13, micky wrote:   > I'd appreciate it any replies went to all three groups that this is > posted to so I don't have to read all three to see all the replies. > When I started in Usenet, that was considered the proper way.   Yup - and *much* preference to multiposting. Cross-posting to completely different or trophy groups was the annoyance, mostly done by trolls.     > How much electricity do these things use when not in use?   It's less than the electricity used when they are in use ;-)   However less - this depends on age, construction, type, and how much power/cost you believe is significant.   Find yourself an AC plugin power meter and measure?   There are other metering methods for non-AC classes of equipment, a clamp meter is a non-invasive measurer of current (and them hall-types that also measure DC current are pretty useful in cars).   -- Adrian C

Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Mar 27 10:20AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 8:55:39 PM UTC-4, bob prohaska wrote: > manufacturer's websites.   > Thanks for reading,   > bob prohaska +1 on avoid the Korean brands for washers, dryers, and fridges. It used to be that sears/kenmore were built by Whirpool (for the most part). A recent investigation for a new fridge revealed it was made by a little known second tier Korean mfg (can't remember the name). Googling 'who makes sears appliance xxxx' will turn up a cross reference sheet of sears numbers to their manufactures but take it with a grain of salt as sears changes suppliers and it may not always reflect the current mfg.   I suggest spending time doing searches of '''the brand you are interested in' problems" This will usually turn up types of problems for each mfg appliance. After you get enough input, you can decide what mfg and probability and types of failures you think you want to take a chance on. My experience in both living with and repairing washers and electric dryers, my suggestions are Kenmore (if you are OK with who makes it) GE, and Maytag. The electronic control modules of 5-8 years ago were somewhat repairable depending on the failure. In almost all cases that I've seen, the cost of the control module varies from ~ $130 USD to $200. A bit ridicules for what is in there, IMHO. Throw in $100 for a repair call and just about any repair is half the cost of a new machine.   For what ever reason, the cost of GE replacement parts seem abnormally high with a wide price variability, depending on the outlet. Caveat: My sample size is from maintaining my family and some relatives machines over the last 15 years (so its small) - its not that I have a full time appliance repair biz. You may want to check out Consumer report ratings for estimated reliability which is based on historical data they have. Recent attempts to buy both a fridge and washing machine showed lead times of 3-4 months for certain brands and styles. They all blame COVID. Bigbox stores had low/bad inventory as compared to local appliance stores, but they were all saying longer delays than normal good luck J

Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Mar 27 10:26AM -0700 On Thursday, March 25, 2021 at 1:01:25 PM UTC-4, bob prohaska wrote: > I take it nobody has had much success obtaining service manuals? > Thanks for reading,   > bob prohaska   My experience is FSMs are almost impossible to come by unless you are 'in the biz'. Many of the online part suppliers have diagnostic guidance for machines in general, and some provide specific mfg/model help. You tube postings can be useful....they tend to post about failure modes that are common, such as ' relay solder joints that melt away because of high current through a contact'.... Good luck J

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Mar 27 02:45PM -0500 Three Jeeps wrote:     > For what ever reason, the cost of GE replacement parts seem abnormally > high with a wide price variability, depending on the outlet. Yes, I should have mentioned before that Marcone is a great resource, they have parts for LOTS of old appliances, and the price is usually reasonable.   They are a chain of warehouses across the US, and are glad to sell to individuals.   Jon

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 04:54AM > that I already knew more about it than he did. It has some diagnostic > procedures you get into by holding down three buttons at once. Quite > helpful to figure out what is wrong.   This. Do not buy foreign made appliances. No parts, no support. Make note that the GE name was sold to the chi-coms and if the product was not made in the US, good luck.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 05:34AM > general contention is that if an appliance makes it through its first > two years, then it is not a lemon. Excepting that generation of LG > appliances that rust badly, of course.   bullshit.   30 years out of an italian designed/ made dishwasher? no fucking way, not even in a musueum. 2 years, maybe, if you replace all parts every year.   Refrigerators are the machines that need the least maintance of anything with moving parts and even the 10 years is a good run these days. Hell, many don't even make it that far before they have problems with freezing up and condensation/pissing all over the floor. This garbage design is no accident.   Residential gas furnaces are usually pretty fixable. Just wait until AC/inverter drive blower motors start to become common though.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 05:36AM > My fear with the modern versions is that with all the electronic controls they become vulnerable to power supply glitches.   > Speed Queen still makes a commercial quality washer available to consumers. It costs more, a lot more, but sometimes you get what you pay for.   > The best way to have clothes last longer while still getting them clean is supposed to be cold water, long presoak, and short wash cycle.   The dryer is where clothes fall apart. Air dry, if you can. Just check how much lint collects on a dryer screen vs. sock on the washing machine discharge hose.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 04:46AM > ...... Phil   There's definitely places making fake STK modules as well as audio ICs for arcade machines. You can bing for some amusing photos.

"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com>: Mar 27 03:45PM -0400 Phil Allison wrote:   > ** BNC plugs are metal and so are accessory connectors on the front > and back.   I get the point. Maybe not a problem with a single channel battery scope.

"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com>: Mar 27 04:04PM -0400 > Enough for now. just find transformers at least six amps with > secondaries adding up to the line voltage. Cheapest and easiest way.   Interesting...thanks.     -- Defund the Thought Police

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 27 02:21PM -0700 Tom Del Rosso wrote:   ================== > > and back.   > I get the point. Maybe not a problem with a single channel battery > scope.   ** Like multimeter style scopes?   Hate them.     ..... Phil

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 28 04:22AM > http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/B.W.D/bwd_821_001.pdf   > In 34 years of daily use, I have replaced 1 open 22kohm resistor and 1 pull switch mini pot.   > ..... Phil   but, but but, it's not capable of 3Ghz and sampling. It must be a useless instrument.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 27 09:39PM -0700 Cydrome Leader wrote:   ===================   > > In 34 years of daily use, I have replaced 1 open 22kohm resistor and 1 pull switch mini pot.   > but, but but, it's not capable of 3Ghz and sampling. It must be a useless > instrument.   ** Very true.....   But I needed a scope for knock down, drag out service work on all kinds of items from tube amps to 2kW SMPSs to 1kW linear mosfet power amplifiers. Plus all the small stuff like condensor mics. Plus I needed to be able to service it myself with readily available spares. Plus it must have a mu-metal shield on the tube.   I was able to buy a spare, internal graticule, PDA CRT for it for under $200 - beautiful thing. Eats the Rigol for breakfast for what I do.     ...... Phil

Hem Jung <hemjA@netco.net>: Mar 27 07:04PM -0400 Five years ago, I acquired a nice used HP DV5 laptop. Only problem is that after only running for a short time, it slows almost to the point of a crawl in speed. At first I didn't know what the reason was, but then I discovered that if I aimed a small fan at it, the problem went away. So a couple of years back, I used it for days to help nuke some hard drives that were being disposed of with no issues. Now I want to bring it out for a long term data logging project. I suppose I could put a fan on it again, but trying to cut back on electricity and also there must be a better way. Any ideas would be welcome and appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 28 08:33AM +0800 On 28/03/2021 7:04 am, Hem Jung wrote: > put a fan on it again, but trying to cut back on electricity and also > there must be a better way.  Any ideas would be welcome and appreciated. > Thanks in advance.   Have you checked the cpu fan for fluff etc ?

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Mar 27 08:29PM In article <s3lkls$pml$1@dont-email.me>, fizzbintuesday@that-google- mail-domain.com says...   > That doesn't mention pigeons or birds. I vaguely remember there was a > connection to the need to clean out the horns, but it would seem to be > irrelevant since they would have detected the radiation anyway.   Ah, maybe the pigeon shit angle is a physics equivalent of an urban myth. I believe it was the temperature spectrum of the radiation that had to be determined, but I may actually read that article...

Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Mar 27 09:46AM -0700 On Saturday, March 27, 2021 at 1:35:46 AM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote: > but am no expert on these units.   > Thanks!   > John :-#)# There is a tekscopes forum that I hang out in that can be very helpful. https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/ Suggest you post there as well. Good luck J

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 27 11:35AM -0700 On Saturday, March 27, 2021 at 12:27:09 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:   > Thanks!   > John :-#)#   > --   I have the serv manual if he ever needs anything scanned from it. In the meantime, he can always pick up a small scrapped LCD TV. Thes use external polarizer sheets that can be cut to fit.

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