- Vizo HDMI ports not working. - 1 Update
- Need Help Identifying Ceramic Capacitor - 12 Updates
- easy way to calibrate audio frequency generator? - 4 Updates
| Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Mar 03 07:28AM -0800 Hi Group, can someone help please, I replaced the main board 3655-0342-0150(41)... on a Vizio M550SV, the hdmi ports do not work. I resoldered the pins, and followed the suggestions in coppell tv repair video for a short did not find one,,,.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8U-01HUx0qY. any help in this matter will be taken seriously, Thanks, |
| World wide137 <worldwide137@gmail.com>: Mar 02 06:23PM -0800 Hello Folks. I need some help in identifying a ceramic capacitor on an RF signal generator from the 50's. The capacitor is off the power supply. The shape is a circular disk about 1cm in diameter with the following markings - HI-Q 2X .01. Any help greatly appreciate. |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 02 06:35PM -0800 worldw...@gmail.com wrote: ========================== > Hello Folks. I need some help in identifying a ceramic capacitor on an RF signal generator from the 50's. The capacitor is off the power supply. The shape is a circular disk about 1cm in diameter with the following markings - HI-Q 2X .01. ** Is is dual cap with 3 legs like this one ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1960s-Ceramic-Disk-Circle-D-Capacitor-2x-01-uf-1-4kv-Guitar-Tone-02-/123856474984 A pic would be useful. ..... Phil |
| World wide137 <worldwide137@gmail.com>: Mar 02 06:43PM -0800 Thanks Phil. The capacitor has two legs, here's a picture of it. -Norm http://printque.us/capacitor.png |
| World wide137 <worldwide137@gmail.com>: Mar 02 06:51PM -0800 I should mention that this capacitor is in a Precision signal generator, model E-200-C. |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 02 07:17PM -0800 worldw...@gmail.com wrote: ================================= > I should mention that this capacitor is in a Precision signal generator, model E-200-C. That cap is in the AC supply circuit - right? See bottom of this page: https://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=363692 So it's a high voltage, ceramic cap. Good replacement would be a 0.01uF, 2kV ceramic like this: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/CK45-E3DD103ZYVNA/?qs=eSfX1CQlHqqfWLOcs5KSTQ%3D%3D Many other sources. ......... Phil |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 02 10:00PM -0800 Phil Allison wrote: ================= > Good replacement would be a 0.01uF, 2kV ceramic like this: > https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/CK45-E3DD103ZYVNA/?qs=eSfX1CQlHqqfWLOcs5KSTQ%3D%3D > Many other sources. ** Be nice idea to fit a 3- core power lead and earth the thing while you are at it. ..... Phil |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 03 05:47AM -0800 That looks very much like an older ceramic safety capacitor. 2X today would be written as X2. That being "X-type, Ceramic Class 2". Their purpose is to minimize EMI/RFI interference - something that makes sense in an SG. The X means that it is to go between the line-cord leads (hot and neutral). 2X means it will tolerate a peak voltage pulse of 2,500 while in operation. More explanation here: https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/safety-capacitor-class-x-and-class-y-capacitors/ Mouser-available Vishay-made device here: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/564r565r-1762222.pdf Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| World wide137 <worldwide137@gmail.com>: Mar 03 06:00AM -0800 Phil - Appreciate the input and link to Mouser. I've contemplated replacing with a 3-prong cord but there seems to be some who say a two prong is better for a sound generator as to not pick up any interference off the ground from other devices. I'm a hobbyist so my depth of knowledge isn't so deep as to accept or refute their claims so I've just left it for now. Cheers. -Norm On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 1:00:06 AM UTC-5, wrote: |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 03 06:23AM -0800 www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=363692 https://www.byan-roper.org/steve/_Media/e-200-schematic.jpeg Might help in the restoration process. On the 2/3 conductor line cord: If you look at the schematic - there are two (2) 0.01uF safety caps in series with a ground between them - which is the same common ground throughout the system. And, by the way, those are X-types as the are between the hot and the neutral. I will not presume that the common ground is also the case even though that is both very likely and common, but you can check that easily yourself - is there continuity between the case and the chassis? If so, go ahead and install a 3-wire cord, grounding to the case. If not do some more checks before going to three wires so that you do not cause any damage. Also, when the device is in operation, is there any leakage (VOM on AC, case-to-good-ground: Any voltage showing?)? Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| World wide137 <worldwide137@gmail.com>: Mar 03 06:24AM -0800 Peter - Thank you for the explanation, I had a heck of a time looking for this on Google. I guess, I wasn't sure on how to search for it. Searching for what was printed on the actual capacitor did not bring up much. Here is a picture of the whole thing. This capacitor is run across the the two chokes. Cheers. -Norm http://printque.us/IMG_5103.jpg On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 8:47:57 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote: |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 03 06:48AM -0800 Norm: A few things: a) There are many versions of this unit over the years, so the differences between the schematic and what you have are no surprise. b) There is no reason to remove the tubular ceramic caps - I believe that the restoration page does mention that. They tend to be pretty stable over the years. c) I would restore to the schematic as shown: http://www.byan-roper.org/steve/_Media/img_5750_med.jpeg d) I see where the ground lug is riveted to the copper cover - and that the cover appears to be sheet-metal-screwed to the case. If so, a 3-wire cord is good, with the ground wire going to the center lug of the three. Take your time. That is a 'popular' unit within the hobby, and worth the effort if you want vintage service gear to go with the vintage radios. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| World wide137 <worldwide137@gmail.com>: Mar 03 06:57AM -0800 You are correct, Peter, that is how the copper cover interacts with the case. There has indeed been several updates to this model, I have 4 different schematics, all similar but slightly different. Of the four, none matches my version perfectly. Thanks again for you input, they've been very helpful. Cheers. -Norm On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 9:48:18 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote: |
| Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Mar 02 10:23AM -0800 On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 5:01:10 AM UTC-5, Abandoned_Trolley wrote: > Speaking of which ... I believe some musicians are able to tune their > instruments by using the dial tone from a landline as a reference. > AT Wiki says the dial tone is a combination of 350 and 440 Hz. That would be an F major chord, minus the fifth. I guess you could do that. Youtube had a 12 hour long recording of a dial tone. I just tried to tune a guitar A string to that, came out 3 cents sharp by my tuner. But my tuner hears the dial tone as an F. The youtube version sounds like a square wave to my ears though. The 60 cycle power hum doesn't work, it is halfway between a Bb (58) and a B natural (62). |
| mjb@signal11.invalid (Mike): Mar 02 09:20PM In article <s1l2d3$o2j$1@dont-email.me>, >Speaking of which ... I believe some musicians are able to tune their >instruments by using the dial tone from a landline as a reference. That's a great idea, but it probably mean FA to most people. Musicians, on the other hand ... :) -- --------------------------------------+------------------------------------ Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk |
| Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Mar 02 03:29PM -0800 On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 4:22:06 PM UTC-5, Mike wrote: > >Speaking of which ... I believe some musicians are able to tune their > >instruments by using the dial tone from a landline as a reference. > That's a great idea, but it probably mean FA to most people. Doesn't mean much to musicians either. Most of us don't have land lines. Most of us do have cell phones and you can get free tuning apps on them. Or you can get a decent electronic tuner for $20. Those two things have made a huge difference in stabilizing a pitch center. Years back you never knew what pitch a band was going to have - might be 440, 415, 175, who knows? You had to be prepared to accommodate, and some instruments could only be tuned so far. Now amateurs don't play any better in tune, but they play out of tune around an agreed upon pitch, and that makes it a lot easier. What you hear on recordings is always autotuned. I don't understand how that works, but it may be gradually training people to expect things to be in tune. Except Sailor Sabor, of course, who holds the record for the most out of tune National Anthem ever, at the CPAC 2021 last week. |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 02 05:16PM -0800 Tinkerer wrote: > scale really. Output is from 200 Hz - 2 Khz on "low" and 2 Khz to 20 > Khz on "high". Exact frequency depends on where the pot is adjusted. > How can I calibrate this to be more precise, preferably in a simple way? ** This link might be useful: https://www.szynalski.com/tone-generator/ It's a variable frequency sine/square generator covering 1Hz to 20kHz with digital read out. You can use zero beating if mixed with the output of your Heathkit unit. ..... Phil |
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